Monday, September 24, 2007
To Paris for the Rugby
Our man G. says to us a couple of weeks ago, "hey, I'm going over to Paris to see my uncle [M'sian Ambassador] and aunt. My cousin from Australia will be there and so will my brother V. We're going to see the Rugby World Cup, why don't you guys come too?" Thanks for the advanced warning. Of course we'll come over.
Arrived at the residence early Friday morning, in time to have a nice big Malaysian breakfast.
Since we had nothing else on for the day, we strolled on over to Palais de Chaillot... R. with the boys...
...and then around to Trocadero, found ourselves some outdoor seating, and settled in for the day. Beers for the lads, all the Cab Franc that R. and I can handle. Coming to France for beer... seriously...
Many hours later, it's time to head back to the residence for dinner...
...for a champagne reception with curry puffs. Can't think of a better pairing.
The dinner card which nearly caused international scandal (by not recognising my bride as my bride).
Fabulous dinner of biriyani, chicken kurma and beef rendang, with some magnums of Chateauneuf du Pape (I did not catch the marque or the vintage, but it was funky, just the way I like it.)
After dinner, it was time to go out. Hôtel Costes on rue St-Honore is a favorite target, and even our scruffy companions eventually managed to get in. It was touch and go for a bit there.
So, Saturday, the big day of rugby. England v. Samoa in Nantes. Allegedly the boys had tickets. I had gone so far as to contact my buddy D., whose brother is a trainer for the Samoa side. Suffice it to say, none were in any condition for the sophisticated execution required to get us there, so we all slept in until Datin called everyone down for brunch and announced her plan to take us on some visits.
First stop, Ladurée for some Madeleines. Being part of a diplomat's entourage definitely has its perks - such as convenient parking on Champs-Élysées.
Next was a quick stop at the Diplomat's shopping centre. I couldn't resist taking a photo of this "marinade." I've definitely smelled that style of application.
After a walk around Sacré Cœur, we headed to Club 30 at the Concorde La Fayette where we took tea and finally got to watch some rugby. Sadly, we were just a few minutes late and missed the Hakaa. R. will surely complain about this for some time.
By this time, the boys were seriously dragging, and also looking a touch green. Rough night. Too many dodgy French beers, not enough good French wine. Not the Dato and I, we were well up for a visit to 3C - Châteaux Cash & Carry, purveyor of fine French wines - seriously, that was the name of the place. And a little tasting of '03 Bordeaux... all very tight.
Something for everyone... a great wine shop with a HUMONGOUS TV, showing the rugby of course.
Our shopping cart. Mine accounted only for a case, but good work on my part all the same.
After a stroll around La Defense, on to dinner at The Blue Elephant. That's right, Thai food. What, you thought a horde of Malaysians, even in Paris, would eat something that wasn't Asian? Really?
And so, that was the weekend. The next morning, R. and I flew back to Philadelphia, having watched about 30 minutes of rugby, on television no less. Success.
Wednesday, September 5, 2007
Austrowein!
The reception started with a 2 hour cruise on the Traumsee, kicked off with the N.V. Marquis de Montclerc. In truth, I can say that this Champagne is from a small, family-run production. It was crisp and refreshing. In reality, the air was also crisp and refreshing, so much so that after about 90 minutes, we had all moved inside... having done so, the sun came out and all was glorious..
Entering Schloss Ort. In the courtyard, we had a delicious pink sparkling wine, the 2004 E & M Müller Schlicher Sekt. Rich and wonderful body. Complemented the colours of the wedding nicely (Austro-Hong Kong-ese, so lots of crimson about). A GREAT bubbly, pretty rare outside of Styria.
2005 Freie Weingärten Wachau Grüner Veltliner Achleiten Smaragd: A golden colour, beautiful nose, surprisingly complex and rich. On the palate, grass and herbs, white pepper, with an interesting citrus finish. Definitely a higher order of g.v. - easily the best example we had on our trip.
2001 Chateau Reynella "Basket-Pressed" Shiraz: This was a real fruit bomb...this was RICH & SWEET. Vanilla, cedar, cassis, plums, mint and bitter chocolate. Definitely over the top.
2004 Winkler-Hermaden Beerenauslese: Heavenly, and again a rarity. Only 250 half bottles produced for '04, and we must have destroyed about a quarter of that supply. Not quite a Kracher, but something different as well. A gorgeous orange colour. Honey and apricots (marillen) dominates, acidity was rather muted.... or my tongue... not sure...but delicious.
Sometime after this, the evening descended into an amalgam of Austro-rave, edelbrand shot races ( a type of high-quality schnaaps), bride-stealing (a great custom whose appeal is lost when stranded on an island castle), and midnight drunken swimming... the water was, erm, refreshing...
The next morning, the wedding party took a "hangover hike" up nearby Sonnstein, taking in the view of Traumsee and Traumkirchen from the hut/cafe at the top. Schloss Ort can just about be made out - it's a white dot at the top of the lake just right of center (of the lake).
A great trip to Austria, as usual!
Thursday, August 30, 2007
Turkey with Wine
We've been trying to visit Turkey for a number of years, but the three previous attempts were thwarted by earthquakes and bombings. This was the fourth try, and a successful one at that.
The first half our trip was in Kapadokya, famous for its bizarre landscape dominated by towers of volcanic tuff. As we would be reminded repeatedly, and much to the chagrin of our friend K. (Istanbul native, historian/geographer, and travel companion), it was the centre of the Hittite empires, and is dotted by caves and underground cities used by early Christians as hiding places. Not only that, but it's a centre for winemaking, so we had double-happiness.
Entering the cellars of the Kocabag winery in Uchisan, where we saw the concrete vats used for open fermentation, as well as the tasting room. The line-up wasn't spectacular - in broad strokes, rough, acidic, light on tannins and fruit, and starting at 15 euros, not good value. Still, we enjoyed at least one of the wines, a red called Kalecik Karasi.
Lunch was a delicious spread of manti (Turkish ravioli in a fresh yogurt sauce), adana kebabs, and fresh bread with zaatar (a blend of 40 spices) and olive oil. To drink, the 2005 Turasan Peribacasi. Reminiscent of a light, restrained, and earthy pinot noir, this was the best red wine we had in Turkey. A really hot day, so we had this lightly chilled and it hit the spot. That evening, we tried the 2004 Turasan "Cappadocia Wine" and the 2003 Turasan Bogazkere, which, while substantially better, was still rather aggressive. A mixed bag from Turasan.
The Church of Constantine-Elene in Mustafapasa (the Greek name is Sinasos), with grape and vine motif on the tiles.
This was supposed to have been a pre-lunch snack. The hotel recently moved their wines from an ancient cave to a temperature controlled room, so we took a flier on this bottle - the label was pretty much destroyed by the humidity, but the wine was intact. This one is a 2002 Taskobirlike Bogazkere, which my Turkish friends tell me is one of their best red wine grapes. It was a bit...funky... I must admit to liking funky.
Early one morning, it was time for a hot-air balloon ride over Goreme Valley. This had been recommended to us by everyone we knew who had been to Kapadokya. Usually, "must-sees" are not, but this was different... simply spectacular. The small cultivated patches are, as often as not, grape vines.
Post-flight celebration with Turkish "champagne". Real Champagne has nothing to fear.
Kapadokya is dotted with caves in which the locals used to hide from various invaders. These cave networks are extensive, and had communal kitchens, churches, mortuaries, meeting halls, and yes, even this subterranean winery! This particular underground city is called Kaymakli, and it is estimated that up to 15,000 people could live here. They've excavated about 8 levels, but estimate that there as many as 12 more below.
So, that was Kapadokya, this is Istanbul.
Istiklal Caddesi, the pedestrian stretch on the Beyoglu side. Venturing off into the quiet side streets, dozens and dozens of restaurants, cafes, and chances to drink arak.
We met up with K., his sister and her husband at the Mikla in Pera for dinner and drinks. The place is, in a word, fabulous. At all costs, this will be our residence the next time in Istanbul. The views and atmosphere at the terrace bar, at sunset, are incredible. The food at the restaurant one flight below did not disappoint, and the wine list culls from the best of what Turkey has to offer. In our case, the highlight was the 2004 Corvus Aeolis from Bozcaada, an island in the Aegean Sea. A cuvee of cabernet sauvignon, bogazkere, okuzgozu, syrah and kuntra. The nose and even the taste recalled that of an amarone. A pleasant surprise.
Cats also seem to lead a nice life here.
Nuts and dried fruits in the Kapali Carsi, the Grand Bazaar. On the whole, it was a lot more sterile than we'd been expecting after previous experiences in Egypt and Tunisia.
But still, Turkey delights.
Continuing in our series of Indian Restaraunts Around the World (IRAW), we found a venue across from Aya Sofiya in Sultanahamet with terrace seating and wonderful views. The food was fine, and we even had a very pleasant rosé, "Lal" by Kavaklidere.
All in all, a great trip, with a generous dosing of unfamiliar varietals. Fortunately, from Turkey we are heading to Austria for a wedding, and the wine situation should improve dramatically.
Wednesday, May 23, 2007
Georgia(n) (wine) on my mind
Tonight we convened an "emergency tasting panel" of 6 couples for an opening of 7 Georgian red wines. One was labeled as “dry”, one as “semi-dry”, and 5 as “semi-sweet” (but really, all were semi-sweet.) Opinions and preferences were mixed, but despite the rather bizarrely sweet flavours, these were still considered drinkable beyond mere curiosity, and in some cases pleasant, even if only barely wine-like. The top 3, in no particular order, were the Pirosmani, the Saperavi, and the Kvanchkara.
All wines produced by “P.M. Georgia Ltd.” – all wines labeled as organically produced with alcohol content of 12%:
2004 Saperavi: “Dry” – Saperavi grape from Kakheti region. Nose of unidentified sweet red fruit (like fruit punch), Welch’s grape jelly, pomegranate, violets, grape stems, smoke, rubber, and latex. On the palate, light bodied, very little fruit. Mid-palate FELT like lemons. Astringent. Hints of sour cream and cheese. Yeast and barley on the finish, with a suggestion of hazelnuts.
2005 Pirosmani: “Semi-Dry” – Saperavi grape from Kakheti region. Nose of beef blood, gummy bears, kool-aid, “thumbs-up” (the Indian cola). On the palate, light body, tart, astringent, sour cherries, lightly sweet, touch of pepper.
2005 Odjaleshi: “Semi-Sweet” – Odjaleshi grape from west Georgia. Nose of cola, Dr. Pepper, red licorice, sweet incense (!). On the palate, medium to full body, light tannins. Fruit punch, fruit rollups, unripe persimmon.
2002 Kindzmarauli: “Semi-Sweet” – Saperavi grape from Kvareli district of Kakheti. On the nose, herbal, wild mint, mouldy grapes, jam. On the palate, medium bodied, JUICY JUICE!
2002 Kvanchkara: “Semi-Sweet” – no grape information, but from Racha region. On the nose, floral, fruit punch, cheese. On the palate, light bodied, delicate weight. Not as sweet as the other semi-sweets, but still sweet. Touch of acidity. Sasparilla and quinine notes.
2004 Alexandreuli: “Semi-Sweet” – no grape information, but from Racha region. On the nose, cherry cola and grape jelly, cherry Ludens cough drops. On the palate, cough syrup (without the alcohol), fruit punch, cola, root beer.
2002 Akhasheni: “Semi-Sweet” – Saperavi grape from Gurjaani district of Kakheti. On the nose, Sasparilla, cola, violets. On the palate, fruit punch, raspberry jam, overripe strawberries.
Tuesday, May 8, 2007
To Madrid, via Toledo
Our tour of Andalusia came to a close, and though we saw plenty of windmills, mostly of the very modern kind, I probably pipped R. as the Quixotic one. So, we made our way back to Madrid to meet up with Y., R., and the other stragglers, making one last stop along the way.
A view of Toledo from the old city.
Holy Toledo - the Cathedral.
There's time for ice cream in Plaza de Zocodover before heading to Madrid.
Next couple of days were very relaxed, walks in the park, checking out motorcycles and foodie boutiques. These chocolates were amazing.
Culinary adventurism stopped just earlier, sorry.
Me and Y. chilling at the Buen Retiro. Time for a nap!
Saturday, May 5, 2007
Granada
Not to be disuaded, we moved onto Granada, a town full of cats. R. naturally approves.
Entering Albaicin, the old Jewish quarter of Granada.
Looking up at the Alhambra.
Two old boys catching a nap.
Inside Generalife.
R. found kitties all over the Alhambra, and determined that they were the more interesting sight.
Patio Leones inside the Palacio Nazaries.
And a view of the city before heading out.