Showing posts with label Junmai-shu. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Junmai-shu. Show all posts

Monday, June 24, 2013

Izumi


In the heart of Toronto's Distillery District.... eh? Right, in the midst of the Baudrillardian funfair (not my term, but I like it) that is the Distillery District... the Ontario Spring Water Sake Company, aka Izumi. Brewed on premises, a pretty small shop, unfortunately toji wasn't there or we could have had an interesting conversation.

I was very much hoping to buy a few things, support the good fight. But, not without sampling first. Near as I can tell, everything sold is a variation on a single batch (made from California grown rice, I'm guessing it's Kakuho rose, brewed with sake yeast #7.) Pretty much everything was nama... nama nama... nama cho... genshu nama nama... Didn't try the nigori, because, surely, it was just unfiltered nama nama... or genshu nama nama...

I finished the tasting of the main offerings in equal measures delighted and disappointed. Delighted that sake makes inroads further and further. Disappointed that for the most part, the sake tasted pretty much exactly what I've brewed at home. Which really, to my opinion, is not a compliment. Far from dry (SMV -10), not very "clean", unbalanced and pretty heaty (a neat trick, high alcohol and still high RS.) I'll say that they've at least managed to control the acidity, but I'm left a little confused as to what my problems were - I'd been assuming that my pressing allowed too much air, and my conditioning, too much light. But, Izumi has what looks like proper kit (note to self), so, if they've managed to become a going concern, maybe I'm not too far behind? How about that?

The tasting bar.

Mildly embarrassed at the prospect of leaving empty-handed (having wangled a free sampling), I noted on the chalkboard, batches #36 and #38. A pair of small-batch arabashiri. That's the spirit. Nama nama and genshu both, both much drier, and cleaner, than the regular releases, but both still very much off-dry to my taste. Both were very faint of nose, but very fruit forward with the melon, followed by a pronounced bitter finish. If anything, the ever so slighty stronger 38 (18% vs. 17.9%) was less syrupy and a bit more bright and jangly than the 36.

All in all, a bit underwhelming, but you have to start somewhere. Gears in head turning...

Monday, June 3, 2013

Oze can you see

It's been a while, all the various excuses apply. On the one hand, family. On the other hand, haven't seen a lot of new stuff lately... maybe just haven't been looking in the right places, maybe just haven't been awake. But out of hibernation we come, and find ourselves in Gunma. If not in mind, then in spirits. Oze no Yukidoke Ohkarakuchi, a junmai-shu from Ryujin Shuzo in Gunma Prefecture. A blend of yamada nishiki and gohyakumangoku rice, semaibuai of 60% and brewed with #11 yeast. Net result, a hefty SMV +10, and above "average" acidity (1.8) and amino acid (1.6). On the whole, this comes across as substantial, with a savoury roundness that, to my palate, completely offset the dryness. I wouldn't call it sessionable, but a good match to fermented and curdled foods... pickles, tofu, miso, cheese... yes, cheese. Also a good candidate for warming, I should think. Pity the thermometer has been in the red...


Thursday, September 15, 2011

Kawacho Junmai Ginjo


From Gunma Prefecture's Nagai Shuzo, producers of the very delicious Mizubasho Ginjo. I don't seem to come across a lot of Gunma sake around here, which is a shame, as my one and only visit to the area, to the tiny hamlet of Sarugakyo, is firmly imprinted in my memory. Oh, to go back to Sarugakyo! Kawacho, take me away!

Rice information not given, oddly, but SMV +8, 15.5% abv and... "pH" of 1.4... er, that can't be right... this is not a strong acid... let's assume that's just the regular sake acidity, which is slightly above "average", but not that much! A prominently fragrant perfume, silky, medium bodied, lightly nutty, rounder than expected, but a drying, lightly savoury finish. It's a bit more demanding than the Mizubasho, but if one may cast non-aspersions, it does seem of the same family.

Wednesday, August 24, 2011

Ozeki Junmai Shiboritate

Ozeki Junmai Shiboritate, the one that comes in the 1.8 liter milk carton! And folks, I'll say it again, my opinion is that Ozeki is head and shoulders above the rest of the giants when it comes to mass-producing brew. I don't care if it's... the (insert best of bland American beer mega-breweries here) of sake, I'll drink this anytime. And I believe I paid less than a Jackson for it. In these times of financial austerity, I nominate this sake as the house sake. Unknown rice, semaibuai 73%, SMV +5, acidity 1.6, low alcohol content of 13%, fresh and clean.

Wednesday, August 17, 2011

Tengumai Uma Jun

Tengumai Uma Jun, a junmai from Ishikawa Prefecture's Shata Shuzo - I loved their yamahai, I guess this is the sokujo version of the same? Don't know the rice type, but it is milled to 60%, SMV +6, acidity 1.6, and 15.5% abv. A little drier than the yamahai, on the numbers, and tastes that way too, milder, but still full flavoured, savoury, and a definite presence in the mouth. Too interesting to slurp, but not so interesting that you must sip. In a nice spot.

Wednesday, August 10, 2011

Kagatoubi Cho-Karakuchi Yamahai Junmai

Kagatoubi Cho-Karakuchi Yamahai Junmai. Already a big fan of Kagatoubi, and all the Fukumitsuya products, but this is really something. You'd certainly not guess that this is yamahai. Yamada Nishiki and gohyakumangoku milled to 65%, SMV +12, acidity 1.8, 16% abv. Dry, yes, but really not an extreme sake, the acidity is not aggressive, and even though you might think it would amplify any yamahai funkiness, it just doesn't. Full-flavoured without being full-flavoured.Yum.

Sunday, June 12, 2011

Sake Perfume

"SAKE EAU DE PARFUM 1OZ features a luscious, velvety fragrance influenced by Japanese beauty rituals and is housed in a mini artisanal bottle. This sensual blend of luscious notes with subtle floral undertones was inspired by the exotic elements of Japanese bathing rituals. Geisha, known for their legendary beauty, used to soak in sake baths infused with peaches, persimmons, lotus, rose, and chrysanthemum."

Wait. What? What about the sake part? Shouldn't a sake perfume contain at least, er, some, sake?

Well, if not, than I shall make it at home, for nothing. Having recently, finally, pressed my batch of Italo-sake, I decided to I would distill some "essential sake oils". First step is to get some sheets of copper, good metal shears, and a hammer. Second, build a still. Then, try not to burn your house down.

Unsurprisingly, alcohol vapours are flammable, and getting a good seal on your still components is essential. As it turns out, I did not, but with careful monitoring, I was able to produce a couple of ounces of distillate. To this, I added a drop of kuromatsu essence (Pinus thunbergii), some vegetable glycerin, and some distilled water. That, my friends, is perfume. It has a mild sake and pine aroma. Since the black pine was a favorite of Japanese watercolorists, I shall call this Junmai Sumi-E.... no, no... I'll take recommendations.

Anyways... what's missing? Oh, yes, the mini artisanal bottle. Here you go.



Wednesday, June 8, 2011

Shizuku

The most recent batch of sake got away from me a bit. I had intended to both correct the previous mistakes (aging in dark bottles, first and foremost) and try a new wrinkle (brewing with arborio rice). And, I did. The arborio... eating grade, milling only about 90%. Was slow to ferment, and I learned that the depth of the mash is important - too much surface area and the yeast doesn't seem to like it. Will have to work on my vessel progression.

Nonetheless, the ferment did eventually get going, but, as it happened, I couldn't find the time to actually press the mash - this spent a whopping 65 days on the kasu. In the tank though, where it was nice and dark. Maybe not all would be lost, the last batch, apart from other faults, was too sweet, maybe this is how daikarakuchi is made?

Anyways, I finally got around to the joso, the pressing, this past weekend. I set up this shizuku rig and it seemed to work pretty well, only the cheesecloth is too porous - too much filtrate gets through, and too much splashing through when filling. Need to find a better material. And maybe brew more of my sake-beer (in the boxes). For next season.

Tuesday, May 10, 2011

junmai muroka nama genshu shiboritate

A first taste, and, well... let's just say that I'm learning. It's got all kinds of texture, big and loud, I think the genshu muroka shiboritate side of things has shut out the nama-ness, but, there is a definite taste suggestive of, postively, yamahai, or negatively, hineka. But, since this was not yamahai, and since I know what good sake tastes like straight from the presses, either this has to settle hard, or there was too much light available to my fermenters, even in the dark recesses of my basement.

Good to learn now, before I've pressed a second batch. I wonder how the others will turn out?

Oh well.

Thursday, April 14, 2011

Ozeki Komatsu Tatewaki Junmai Taruzake


If there's an industrial-sized brewer whose products I have a soft corner for, it's Hyogo's Ozeki. And products like this are proof that even the big guys take the time to do some interesting things. Semaibuai of 73%, SMV +5, acidity 1.6, and 15% abv, this is a full throttle taruzake, with strong sugi spice on the nose and palate. However, underlying the cedar notes is a clear, sweet, and lightly tangy brew with pleasant mouthfeel and finish. The sugi, I think, almost can't help but being dominant though, and I can't drink more than a small glass of this at a go. But that's hardly much of an unbiased critique, as to date, Taruhei is the only brewer whose taruzake I would even consider buying repeatedly, especially the Sumiyoshi.

Wednesday, April 6, 2011

Urakasumi Junmai

Urakasumi Junmai
A long-ish hiatus due to brewing activities and a quick visit to the UK. Oddly, sake consumption was almost zero over the past month. But, post-earthquake, I did head up to Mitsuwa to pick in search of some Tohoku products, including this junmai from Miyagi Prefecture's Urakasumi. They fared better than others, but nonetheless, all could use a boost from export markets. Couldn't go far wrong with this, a solid brew - mana musume milled to 65%, SMV +2, acidity 1.3, and 15.5% abv. Prominent rice character, full, but with a lightly rough bitterness to finish, sweet and a bit nutty too.

Tuesday, March 1, 2011

Behind the Mask

Another sake-related curiosity crosses my desk, a sake facial mask, from Taiwan. At least, I find out, that this is pretty inexpensive. Still, that's not the point, is it? With very little digging, I found an exceedingly simple recipe from the good people at Hakkaisan, which convinced me that I could make it better, at home, for nothing.


Mostly though, this product reminded me of early days with the missus, when my roommates and I received a crash course on beauty rituals from the terrifying Madam R.



Anyways, onto the "My Beauty Diary" - no, really... that's what it's called. It's got a lot of typical cosmetic chemical stuff, some non-sake essential oils, and a tiny bit of "sake yeast extract"... hardly good enough!


It was cold, very wet, and didn't stick particularly well. Madam R. suggested I should lay down. Nothing doing.


This time, truly in the spirit of making it at home for nothing, I was able to use only ingredients I already had at home: bentonite (used for fining, amongst other things, sake), rice flour (a darling of the Japanese cosmetics industry), yogurt (made at home, for nothing, naturally), and sake kasu. Oh, and a splash of sake, the last bit of Dassai 50, but now wondering if I should have opened the bottle of taru-zake instead...hmmm.


Nicely mixed with some of my brewing water.


Madam R. putting kasu-mask through the paces.


"Ten thumbs up!" says she! "Smells like sake!" says she! Even testing on my own hide was positive, so another one for the file.

Thursday, February 24, 2011

Our tears are not yet brew'd

About two weeks ago, I began my first attempt at brewing sake at home, the next step in my evolution from a Mukune Kurabito-Intern. For this first attempt, a number of shortcuts - pre-pared koji and milled rice (to 60%), both made from Calrose (the U.S. grown rice used by, I believe, most if not all the sake brewers in the U.S.) I chose the sokujo method, for a number of reasons, but mainly because I wanted to minimize variables this first time around. The yeast is from Wyeast, it's the regular, i.e., non-non-foaming #9. This photo is the day 1 moto, yeast starter.


The moto, day 3.


The moto, day 4.


Day 08, the koji addition before hatsuzoe, the first "doubling" addition of rice and water.


Day 09, hatsuzoe and the odori or dancing phase. I think I had a bit too much water in the steamer, some of the rice got a bit gummy, but overall, it should be ok, only a small percentage of the overall rice, and it looked like the dancing went just fine.


Day 10, chilling the mash prior to the second doubling addition, nakazoe.


Day 10, rice-steaming.


Day 10, steamed rice being cooled prior to addition to mash


Day 10, after the steamed rice was added to the mash.


Day 10, following water addition, nakazoe addition completed


Day 10, 12 hours later, before adding the tomezoe koji.


Day 10, transferred to a larger fermenter.


Day 11, steeping the rice for the tomezoe addition.


Day 11, the mash is stirred and ready for the final rice addition.



Day 11, just a couple of hours after the tomezoe addition, a very good demonstration of why foamless yeasts have become popular! The hard work is done, now it's time for the moromi to do its thing and ferment. Today is day 13, and the fermentation, and foam, has been relentless! I definitely need to buy some bigger vessels. Anyways, I'm anticipating joso or pressing by the middle of March. Not sure what I'm going to do beyond that, definitely some variations on nama, and a bit of usu-nigori and shiboritate. I do know though that the customary 6-month aging period will finish JUST in time for nihonshu no hi - national sake day, October 1st!

Saturday, February 19, 2011

Dassai 50 Junmai Daiginjo


The "Otter Fest" sake, from Yamaguchi Prefecture's Asahi Shuzo. Yamada Nishiki and omachi milled to 50%, SMV +4, acidity 1.5, amino acidity 0.9, and 16.5% abv. Pretty aroma, floral, fruity and clean. On the palate, concentrated, sweet fruit and rice pudding, syrupy, but transitioning to a dry, not-quite-sharp finish. Lovely to drink, even if the company claims they don't make sake for drinking, only for "sipping." Rightfully popular stuff.

Thursday, February 10, 2011

Quebec

A quick visit to Quebec for some winter sports. First, to Quebec City to meet with friends and enjoy the Winter Festival.

The view from our brunch venue. In this room, Churchill, FDR, and King met to finalize plans for D-Day.


After brunch, we went to check out some of the day's festivities, which included a canoe race across the frozen river, half paddling, half dragging boats across the ice, and, apparently, another half eating bacon. We on the other hand were busy recreating photos from our parents' youth.


We also managed to join the natives for some sport on the Plains of Abraham, an excellent park with snowshoe and cross-country trails, very busy on a Sunday afternoon.


The frozen waterfall behind us, just north of the city, apparently very famous for ice-climbing. Not on our itinerary.


Onwards though, to the area of Baie Saint Paul and the Le Massif Ski Resort in Charlevoix. The extent of our X-games, but another wonderful park, and very nearly entirely to ourselves.


Having exercised, it was on to the slopes. With beverage, naturally.


Ozeki Junmai Uma-shiboritate. Thank you, Joel-san!


What I think I looked like after fortification. Note the frozen river at the bottom. First time I've ever skied at a place where the lodge was at the top of the mountain, and you ski down. Very cool views out over the river. And very quiet and uncrowded, super conditions.


What I probably looked like after my beverage.


This Kizakura gold-flake sake was a gift from my Japanese teacher, and I intended to drink it slopeside, but after a rather spectacularly silly fall, in which I slid face-first down the mountain for about 150 yards...anyways, I was going back up the mountain and I realised that the bottle had fallen out of my pocket... now, I remembered while falling seeing an odd object sliding down the mountain in front of me, but it hadn't occurred to me then that it might be the sake... well, a couple of hours later, on the last run of the last day, having gotten lost going across the mountain, I found myself staring at that same stretch of mountain, and thought... could it possibly... why, yes, it could! Buried in nice little mound at the bottom of the hill was this bottle! Haven't drunk it yet, lucky bottle!


Wandering through the village, we saw a sign that said, "support your local microbrewery." We're very good at taking instructions.


For dinner, Tourtiere, a local speciality, basically a meat pie.


Sunrise over the Baie Saint Paul.

All in all, a super trip, a great ski resort, if only it weren't SO far away!