All about Hakone

Other than sumo, R.'s utmost objective on this trip was to see Mt. Fuji, and from Hakone in particular. Fuji's a bit of a recluse, frequently if not usually hidden by clouds, especially as the day drags on. We were very lucky though to have very clear skies, though R. was a bit disappointed that there wasn't any snow on the mountain yet.


Having come up from Nara, now waiting for the Shinkansen from Kyoto to Odawara. From there, we took a bus around the lake to Moto-Hakone.


It wasn't particularly late by the time we got to our hotel, maybe 7:30 or so, but Moto-Hakone's a small town, with only a couple of restaurants, which close early. The hotel rang their preferred choice to let them know we were coming. Now, I didn't have high expectations for vegetarian food (my dinner was very good though, fresh eel - very fresh... pulled live from the aquarium and carried wriggling across the dining room, much to R.'s dismay, on display here.) Fortunately for me, the 7-11 in town was both still open and had 3 delightful bottles of jizake.


So why Hakone? One of R.'s favorite Japanese woodblock prints is from Hiroshige's Tokaido no Gojyusan Tsugi - The 55 Stations of the Tokaido. The 11th station is a view from Hakone, and the trail of the Old Tokaido Highway passed right through the town.


Well, we walked a good length of the Hakone section and did not find the vantage point depicted in the print, so R. set to making interpretive demonstrations of troop movement on the O.T. Highly amusing, and she didn't fall.


Pirate ships on Lake Ashinoko? No, this would be our transport across the lake to Owakudani.


Owakudani - Great Boiling Valley. Volcanic activity below, jets of sulphured water on the surface. Plenty stinky.


A local specialty is hard-boiled eggs, which turn black in the waters. Eating one is supposed to give you an additional 7 years of life, two gives you 14, and three gives you heartburn. Well, no, I made that last one up, but they say you shouldn't eat more than 2 anyways. Another local specialty failed to capture R.'s affection - wasabi-flavoured soft serve ice-cream. I thought it wasn't too bad.


From Owakudani, we took the Hakone Ropeway (cable car) and then the toy train (miniature gauge rail) back to Odawara, and from there, on to Tokyo.


N. and A. met us at our hotel in Asakusa, and we went out for dinner at a nearby izakaya, where we recapped our adventures so far, and N. and A. finally got to meet R. Here, N. is saying, "Whaddya mean, chickens have testicles?!?!?"

<img alt="fuji" border="0" src="http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w250/orie0704/Japan178.jpg" width="400" /><br />Other than sumo, R.'s utmost objective on this trip was to see Mt. Fuji, and from Hakone in particular. Fuji's a bit of a recluse, frequently if not usually hidden by clouds, especially as the day drags on. We were very lucky though to have very clear skies, though R. was a bit disappointed that there wasn't any snow on the mountain yet<span class="fullpost">.<br /><br /><img alt="shinkansen" border="0" src="http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w250/orie0704/Japan191.jpg" width="400" /><br />Having come up from Nara, now waiting for the Shinkansen from Kyoto to Odawara. From there, we took a bus around the lake to Moto-Hakone.<br /><br /><img alt="tofu" border="0" src="http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w250/orie0704/Japan195.jpg" width="400" /><br />It wasn't particularly late by the time we got to our hotel, maybe 7:30 or so, but Moto-Hakone's a small town, with only a couple of restaurants, which close early. The hotel rang their preferred choice to let them know we were coming. Now, I didn't have high expectations for vegetarian food (my dinner was very good though, fresh eel - very fresh... pulled live from the aquarium and carried wriggling across the dining room, much to R.'s dismay, on display here.) Fortunately for me, the 7-11 in town was both still open and had 3 delightful bottles of <i>jizake</i>.<br /><br /><img alt="hakone" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvI0qB_AhNw2BQKadX-NwI-iUlgO-ORmGjoP8Bgm2vJBkPCXPFG-9_dyQrpU9XkLcgxIoMgdT9ePyI8rKokLnYBnlYTfqDCThdphSmvvCAPp1HzSl8YL3-eRPODNzcydihBJVv590rFd0/s400/Hiroshige+Hakone.jpg" width="400" /><br />So why Hakone? One of R.'s favorite Japanese woodblock prints is from Hiroshige's <i>Tokaido no Gojyusan Tsugi</i> - The 55 Stations of the Tokaido. The 11th station is a view from Hakone, and the trail of the Old Tokaido Highway passed right through the town.<br /><br /><img alt="trooping" border="0" src="http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w250/orie0704/JapanV045.jpg" width="400" /><br />Well, we walked a good length of the Hakone section and did not find the vantage point depicted in the print, so R. set to making interpretive demonstrations of troop movement on the O.T. Highly amusing, and she didn't fall.<br /><br /><img alt="pirates" border="0" src="http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w250/orie0704/Japan207.jpg" width="400" /><br />Pirate ships on Lake Ashinoko? No, this would be our transport across the lake to Owakudani.<br /><br /><img alt="stink" border="0" src="http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w250/orie0704/JapanV059.jpg" width="400" /><br />Owakudani - Great Boiling Valley. Volcanic activity below, jets of sulphured water on the surface. Plenty stinky.<br /><br /><img alt="eggs" border="0" src="http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w250/orie0704/JapanV067.jpg" width="400" /><br />A local specialty is hard-boiled eggs, which turn black in the waters. Eating one is supposed to give you an additional 7 years of life, two gives you 14, and three gives you heartburn. Well, no, I made that last one up, but they say you shouldn't eat more than 2 anyways. Another local specialty failed to capture R.'s affection - wasabi-flavoured soft serve ice-cream. I thought it wasn't too bad.<br /><br /><img alt="cable" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaYCvN3SuQKzDSacc1ww7Yh25zJXB0OcMk-dpN2e9WotRtVPw2nvSAh_Ggf7q4Mtoq5hjSiZHW6Ngca_Nmscx_07WQ5tayIwn3PttvfoWuc5RsHbFrCXbrEM9czfFv9BkaT8u_cxj3hrY/s400/Japan+V+077.jpg" width="400" /><br />From Owakudani, we took the Hakone Ropeway (cable car) and then the toy train (miniature gauge rail) back to Odawara, and from there, on to Tokyo.<br /><br /><img alt="balls" border="0" src="http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w250/orie0704/Japan008.jpg" width="400" /><br />N. and A. met us at our hotel in Asakusa, and we went out for dinner at a nearby izakaya, where we recapped our adventures so far, and N. and A. finally got to meet R. Here, N. is saying, "<i>Whaddya mean, chickens have testicles</i>?!?!?"<br /><br /></span>

From Fushimi to Nara

From Kyoto, we took some time to explore the temple complex of Fushimi-Inari before heading down to Nara. This is the sake central highway - Fushimi being one of the two major sake producing centres, historically and today, and Nara considered its cultural home.


It was evident that we were onto a good thing as this pilgrim was the first person we saw when we got off the train.


A perfectly proportioned breakfast.


Saba (mackerel) curry, in a can. A completely inappropriate breakfast. Especially the turbaned guy, with the disproportionately large mackerel.


Entering Fushimi-Inari Taisha. The paths leading up to the shrine are lined with literally thousands of these vermillion Torii or gates. Inari is the Shinto god of industry, agriculture, fertility, and most importantly (from the sake brewer's perspective), of rice. A perfect pilgrimage destination.


Man walking dog.


Having paid our respects to Inari, we hopped a train to Nara, checked into our hotel (conveniently located across the street from a sake shop), and walked back to the train station to rent some bicycles. Having been caught out in the rain at least twice already, we employed my favoured rain averting technique - carrying an umbrella. A little vending machine coffee and off we go.


Turned out to be a beautiful day, great temperature for cycling and sightseeing. Nara is absolutely covered in temples and shrines. This is Kasuga-Taisha, famous for its lanterns and a style of architecture.


Horticultural delights around every corner.


The sacred deer of Nara roam everywhere. "You do plan to give me food, don't you?"


Outside the Daibutsuden (Great Buddha Hall) at Todai-ji in Nara. One of the largest wooden structures in the world, this is smaller than the original structure that was destroyed by fire. One of the supporting posts in the hall has a small hole cut through it, sized to be the same as the nostril of the Buddha statue sitting inside. Legend has it that if one is able to pass one's body through the whole, then one is assured of enlightenment in the next life. I managed this back in '97, so I'm all set. Good thing too, couldn't even get my shoulders in this time.


Will she, won't she? Me and 50 schoolkids want to know.


The human booger makes it through. "Enlightenment, here I come!"


Enlightenment, perhaps, but it doesn't come equipped with a sense of direction. This is moments after saving R. from an impromptu ride all the way back to Kyoto.

So, back to the hotel and out for some dinner. I had read that around the corner there was an izakaya with, not only a lengthy sake list, in English, but also a vegetarian menu. Score 1 to Ryozanpaku! Delicious, friendly, and not too expensive. On the way back to the hotel, we stopped in at the tiny, but well equipped sake shop across the street. Seeing our more than moderate interest, the owner pulled out a couple of opened bottles from the refrigerator and gave us samples. Oishii! I picked out a couple of bottles of jizake, local sake, and as we were leaving with our purchases, was handed another bag - containing the two bottles we had just tried, and another small bottle of "romantic" sake! Gifts! Good to come back to Nara!
<img alt="taruzake" border="0" src="http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w250/orie0704/Japan109.jpg" width="400"><br />From Kyoto, we took some time to explore the temple complex of Fushimi-Inari before heading down to Nara. This is the sake central highway - Fushimi being one of the two major sake producing centres, historically and today, and Nara considered its cultural home<span class="fullpost">.<br /><br /><img alt="pilgrim" border="0" src="http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w250/orie0704/Japan048.jpg" width="400"><br />It was evident that we were onto a good thing as this pilgrim was the first person we saw when we got off the train. <br /><br /><img alt="brekkie" border="0" src="http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w250/orie0704/Japan061.jpg" width="400"><br />A perfectly proportioned breakfast.<br /><br /><img alt="saba" border="0" src="http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w250/orie0704/Japan080.jpg" width="400"><br />Saba (mackerel) curry, in a can. A completely inappropriate breakfast. Especially the turbaned guy, with the disproportionately large mackerel.<br /><br /><img alt="fushimi-inari-taisha" border="0" src="http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w250/orie0704/Japan053.jpg" width="400"><br />Entering Fushimi-Inari Taisha. The paths leading up to the shrine are lined with literally thousands of these vermillion <i>Torii</i> or gates. Inari is the Shinto god of industry, agriculture, fertility, and most importantly (from the sake brewer's perspective), of rice. A perfect pilgrimage destination.<br /><br /><img alt="man walking dog" border="0" src="http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w250/orie0704/Japan077.jpg" width="400"><br />Man walking dog.<br /><br /><img alt="cyclo-vendo" border="0" src="http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w250/orie0704/JapanV017.jpg" width="400"><br />Having paid our respects to Inari, we hopped a train to Nara, checked into our hotel (conveniently located across the street from a sake shop), and walked back to the train station to rent some bicycles. Having been caught out in the rain at least twice already, we employed my favoured rain averting technique - carrying an umbrella. A little vending machine coffee and off we go.<br /><br /><img alt="kasuga" border="0" src="http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w250/orie0704/Japan176.jpg" width="400"><br />Turned out to be a beautiful day, great temperature for cycling and sightseeing. Nara is absolutely covered in temples and shrines. This is Kasuga-Taisha, famous for its lanterns and a style of architecture.<br /><br /><img alt="table garden" border="0" src="http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w250/orie0704/Japan093.jpg" width="400"><br />Horticultural delights around every corner.<br /><br /><img alt="deer" border="0" src="http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w250/orie0704/Japan089.jpg" width="400"><br />The sacred deer of Nara roam everywhere. <i>"You do plan to give me food, don't you</i>?"<br /><br /><img alt="daibutsuden" border="0" src="http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w250/orie0704/Japan111.jpg" width="400"><br />Outside the Daibutsuden (Great Buddha Hall) at Todai-ji in Nara. One of the largest wooden structures in the world, this is smaller than the original structure that was destroyed by fire. One of the supporting posts in the hall has a small hole cut through it, sized to be the same as the nostril of the Buddha statue sitting inside. Legend has it that if one is able to pass one's body through the whole, then one is assured of enlightenment in the next life. I managed this back in '97, so I'm all set. Good thing too, couldn't even get my shoulders in this time.<br /><br /><img alt="stuck" border="0" src="http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w250/orie0704/Japan169.jpg" width="400"><br />Will she, won't she? Me and 50 schoolkids want to know.<br /><br /><img alt="enlightened!" border="0" src="http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w250/orie0704/Japan170.jpg" width="400"><br />The human booger makes it through. "<i>Enlightenment, here I come</i>!" <br /><br /><img alt="wrong way" border="0" src="http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w250/orie0704/Japan187.jpg" width="400"><br />Enlightenment, perhaps, but it doesn't come equipped with a sense of direction. This is moments after saving R. from an impromptu ride all the way back to Kyoto. <br /><br /><p align=center><a href="http://homepage3.nifty.com/ryozan/EN/En.html" target="_blank"><img alt="ryozanpaku" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMOl2_PGvwNT7h_otaYnmHKW84-uUFWTHGQi7ghsb76fjIuNP4rhRPhj11MBI7-irbPJgLUOMsPs4oRs4e1jc5ciT6uEZy72C_4CA3vhyphenhyphen1M1bYt1oQ2JMnXHnsJVtr5nzWOG1D0ItDRAI/s400/counter-seat.jpg"></a></p><br />So, back to the hotel and out for some dinner. I had read that around the corner there was an <i>izakaya</i> with, not only a lengthy sake list, in English, but also a vegetarian menu. Score 1 to <a href="http://homepage3.nifty.com/ryozan/EN/En.html" target="_blank">Ryozanpaku</a>! Delicious, friendly, and not too expensive. On the way back to the hotel, we stopped in at the <i>tiny</i>, but well equipped sake shop across the street. Seeing our more than moderate interest, the owner pulled out a couple of opened bottles from the refrigerator and gave us samples. <i>Oishii</i>! I picked out a couple of bottles of <i>jizake</i>, local sake, and as we were leaving with our purchases, was handed another bag - containing the two bottles we had just tried, and another small bottle of "romantic" sake! Gifts! Good to come back to Nara!<br /></span>

Kansai bound

This is R.'s first real visit to Japan, not counting a Narita layover which spawned her love of sumo wrestling. That trip of course significantly influenced this one. I'm coming back to Japan next month for a conference, and the plan had been for R. to join me. "Great! A chance to see sumo wrestling!" Well, it turns out that sumo wrestling tournaments are only scheduled in odd-numbered months, so R. has actually boycotted next month's trip. In the interests of maintaining some marital harmony, I quickly arranged for this visit, which will include sumo wrestling.

Our itinerary is as follows. Fly to Osaka and head straight to Kyoto. From Kyoto, we go to Nara, then a trip in the Hakone area to see Mt. Fuji, and then up to Tokyo. My friend N. has secured tickets for the sumo tournament, so that will kick things off. We'll then go up to Nikko and spend some time up there before coming to spend a couple of days exploring Tokyo.


This is going to be fun, visiting Japan with a first-timer. In Nishiki market, R. had her first encounter with fruit pricing. "Seriously? $50 for a melon?"


Endless delights in Japan's department store basement food halls. "Now we're talking. You may spend as much as needed to please me."


Kinkakuji - Temple of the Golden Pavillion. Still haven't read Mishima's account.


Ryoanji's famous Zen garden. And no, I still am unable to see all the stones at once.


Japan's newest woodblock artist aims to revive ukiyo-e, or "pictures of the floating world."


For lunch, we headed to the west of Kyoto, to Arashiyama, for lunch at Ranroukaku, a ryokan (inn) specialising in Kyoto's kaiseki cuisine and yudofu - fresh tofu. It was a delicious lunch with some excellent namazake, but the highlight was yet to come. When the attendant came over, I thought he was going to ask if we wanted more drinks or dessert, but instead, he asked if we would like to take a bath! Well, we'd been out in the sun all day, it had been muggy, and just started to rain when we came in for lunch, but I didn't think we smelled that badly! No, it turns out that the inn has a number of private baths on the roof, with views, such as this one, overlooking Arashiyama and the Oi river. Fabulous idea!


Gion by night.


Ginkakuji - Temple of the Silver Pavillion


"Very important moss," one of several moss displays at the temple.


Pruning downward pointing needles on the grounds of Ginkakuji.


If you think pruning is hard work...

Paper cranes on the grounds of Heian Jingu.

Kiyomizudera - Pure Water Temple.


These don't look like your standard rice crackers. And they're not. After buying some to sample, we stepped into the sake shop next door and sampled a few things, bought a few bottles. Good thing I packed lightly!


Cat store in Higashiyama. <img alt="detail" border="0" src="http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w250/orie0704/Japan114.jpg" width="400"><br />This is R.'s first real visit to Japan, not counting a Narita layover which spawned her love of sumo wrestling. That trip of course significantly influenced this one. I'm coming back to Japan next month for a conference, and the plan had been for R. to join me. "<i>Great! A chance to see sumo wrestling</i>!" Well, it turns out that sumo wrestling tournaments are only scheduled in odd-numbered months, so R. has actually boycotted next month's trip. In the interests of maintaining some marital harmony<span class="fullpost">, I quickly arranged for this visit, which will include sumo wrestling. <br /><br />Our itinerary is as follows. Fly to Osaka and head straight to Kyoto. From Kyoto, we go to Nara, then a trip in the Hakone area to see Mt. Fuji, and then up to Tokyo. My friend N. has secured tickets for the sumo tournament, so that will kick things off. We'll then go up to Nikko and spend some time up there before coming to spend a couple of days exploring Tokyo.<br /><br /><img alt="Nishiki" border="0" src="http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w250/orie0704/Japan098.jpg" width="400"><br />This is going to be fun, visiting Japan with a first-timer. In Nishiki market, R. had her first encounter with fruit pricing. "<i>Seriously? $50 for a melon</i>?"<br /><br /><img alt="choco" border="0" src="http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w250/orie0704/Japan371.jpg" width="400"><br />Endless delights in Japan's department store basement food halls. "<i>Now we're talking. You may spend as much as needed to please me</i>."<br /><br /><img alt="Photobucket" border="0" src="http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w250/orie0704/Japan018.jpg" width="400"><br />Kinkakuji - Temple of the Golden Pavillion. Still haven't read Mishima's account.<br /><br /><img alt="ryoanji" border="0" src="http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w250/orie0704/Japan030-1.jpg" width="400"><br />Ryoanji's famous Zen garden. And no, I still am unable to see all the stones at once.<br /><br /><img alt="ukiyo" border="0" src="http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w250/orie0704/Japan025.jpg" width="400"><br />Japan's newest woodblock artist aims to revive <i>ukiyo-e</i>, or "pictures of the floating world."<br /><br /><img alt="arashiyama" border="0" src="http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w250/orie0704/Japan041.jpg" width="400"><br />For lunch, we headed to the west of Kyoto, to Arashiyama, for lunch at <i><a href="http://www.kyoto-hanatsubaki.co.jp/ranroukaku/" target="_blank">Ranroukaku</a></i>, a <i>ryokan</i> (inn) specialising in Kyoto's <i>kaiseki</i> cuisine and <i>yudofu</i> - fresh tofu. It was a delicious lunch with some excellent namazake, but the highlight was yet to come. When the attendant came over, I thought he was going to ask if we wanted more drinks or dessert, but instead, he asked if we would like to take a bath! Well, we'd been out in the sun all day, it had been muggy, and just started to rain when we came in for lunch, but I didn't think we smelled that badly! No, it turns out that the inn has a number of private baths on the roof, with views, such as this one, overlooking Arashiyama and the Oi river. Fabulous idea!<br /><br /><img alt="Gion" border="0" src="http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w250/orie0704/Japan043.jpg" width="400"><br />Gion by night.<br /><br /><img alt="Ginkakuji" border="0" src="http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w250/orie0704/Japan088.jpg" width="400"><br />Ginkakuji - Temple of the Silver Pavillion<br /><br /><img alt="VIM" border="0" src="http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w250/orie0704/Japan086.jpg" width="400"><br />"Very important moss," one of several moss displays at the temple.<br /><br /><img alt="pruning" border="0" src="http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w250/orie0704/Japan099.jpg"><br />Pruning downward pointing needles on the grounds of Ginkakuji.<br /><br /><img alt="dry garden" border="0" src="http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w250/orie0704/Japan078.jpg" width="400"><br />If you think pruning is hard work...<br /><p align=center><img alt="origami" border="0" src="http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w250/orie0704/Japan118.jpg" width="250"><br />Paper cranes on the grounds of Heian Jingu.</p><br /><img alt="Kiyomizudera" border="0" src="http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w250/orie0704/Japan145.jpg" width="400"><br />Kiyomizudera - Pure Water Temple.<br /><br /><img alt="crackers" border="0" src="http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w250/orie0704/Japan097.jpg" width="400"><br />These don't look like your standard rice crackers. And they're not. After buying some to sample, we stepped into the sake shop next door and sampled a few things, bought a few bottles. Good thing I packed lightly!<br /><br /><img alt="kitty corner" border="0" src="http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w250/orie0704/Japan163.jpg" width="400"><br />Cat store in Higashiyama.</span>

Chile

We decided, in late spring, that for our next vacation, we wanted to be able to ski, go to the seaside, and go winetasting. Our choices were limited, and New Zealand, too far away. Chile it was, with Easter Island as the added bonus.


Palacio de la Moneda in the "Civic District" of Santiago. Seat of the government.


The description said something along the lines of "meat on a stick", one of man's greatest culinary inventions. This was more of a mountain. Still, pretty interesting restaurants in the Barrio Bellavista.


Both R. and I weren't all that keen on Santiago, we didn't get a particularly "fun" vibe, outside of a couple of neighbourhoods, like Barrio Bellavista. The Plaza de Armas was at least atmospheric at night. We were both glad to be heading out of the city, first for that week in Easter Island, and then the surrounding areas.


First, it was Valle Nevado for a couple of days of skiing. Valle Nevado is less than 50 kilometers from Santiago, and with a base elevation of more than 3000 meters, it is well above the tree-line. Miss a turn and you end up back in Santiago. Didn't want that!


Air is thin - you end up skiing fast because you have no energy to turn! R. really struggled with altitude sickness until a spectacular low, or almost no-speed tumble knocked it out of her. All good after that!


After the skiing, we headed to the coast, first to Valparaiso and then to Viña del Mar. We found these to be rather depressing places, especially with literally packs of stray and abandoned dogs all over the place. Perhaps it was the early winter?


But this sort of sums up the bleakness we were feeling.


Not to worry though, we found the cure... wine tasting.. so many vineyards within driving distance of Santiago. We stopped at a few places, starting with Viña Cousiño Macul...


...and finishing with Concha y Toro. And no, they didn't let me take that bottle with me.

All in all, it was an up and down sort of trip. Easter Island was definitely an unforgettable experience, and a sombre reminder of man's ability to destroy himself. I think we'd gladly go back for the skiing and the winery visits. The cities, not so much. I'd like to see the far north and the far south next time around. <img alt="Valle Nevado" border="0" src="http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w250/orie0704/Chile__23_.jpg" width="400"><br />We decided, in late spring, that for our next vacation, we wanted to be able to ski, go to the seaside, and go winetasting. Our choices were limited, and New Zealand, too far away. Chile it was<span class="fullpost">, with Easter Island as the added bonus.<br /><br /><img alt="Palacio de la Moneda" border="0" src="http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w250/orie0704/Chile_R__47_.jpg" width="400"><br />Palacio de la Moneda in the "Civic District" of Santiago. Seat of the government.<br /><br /><img alt="mount carne" border="0" src="http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w250/orie0704/Chile__0_.jpg" width="400"><br />The description said something along the lines of "meat on a stick", one of man's greatest culinary inventions. This was more of a mountain. Still, pretty interesting restaurants in the Barrio Bellavista.<br /><br /><img alt="church" border="0" src="http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w250/orie0704/Chile__79_.jpg" width="193"> <img alt="reflection" border="0" src="http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w250/orie0704/Chile__75_.jpg" width="193"><br />Both R. and I weren't all that keen on Santiago, we didn't get a particularly "fun" vibe, outside of a couple of neighbourhoods, like Barrio Bellavista. The Plaza de Armas was at least atmospheric at night. We were both glad to be heading out of the city, first for that week in Easter Island, and then the surrounding areas.<br /><br /><img alt="Valle Nevado" border="0" src="http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w250/orie0704/Chile_R__31_.jpg" width="400"><br />First, it was <a href="http://www.vallenevado.com/" target="_blank">Valle Nevado</a> for a couple of days of skiing. Valle Nevado is less than 50 kilometers from Santiago, and with a base elevation of more than 3000 meters, it is well above the tree-line. Miss a turn and you end up back in Santiago. Didn't want that!<br /><br /><img alt="Valle Nevado" border="0" src="http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w250/orie0704/Chile_R__25_.jpg" width="400"> <br />Air is thin - you end up skiing fast because you have no energy to turn! R. really struggled with altitude sickness until a spectacular low, or almost no-speed tumble knocked it out of her. All good after that!<br /><br /><img alt="valpa trolley" border="0" height="185" src="http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w250/orie0704/Chile__93_.jpg"> <img alt="valparaiso" border="0" height="185" src="http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w250/orie0704/Chile__102_.jpg"><br />After the skiing, we headed to the coast, first to Valparaiso and then to Viña del Mar. We found these to be rather depressing places, especially with literally packs of stray and abandoned dogs all over the place. Perhaps it was the early winter? <br /><br /><img alt="darth" border="0" src="http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w250/orie0704/Chile__111_.jpg" width="400"><br />But this sort of sums up the bleakness we were feeling.<br /><br /><img alt="cousino-macul" border="0" src="http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w250/orie0704/Chile__129_.jpg" width="400"><br />Not to worry though, we found the cure... wine tasting.. so many vineyards within driving distance of Santiago. We stopped at a few places, starting with <a href="http://www.cousinomacul.cl/" target="_blank">Viña Cousiño Macul</a>...<br /><br /><img alt="big bottle" border="0" height="185" src="http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w250/orie0704/Chile_R__81_.jpg"> <img alt="concha y toro" border="0" height="185" src="http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w250/orie0704/Chile__141_.jpg"><br />...and finishing with <a href="http://www.conchaytoro.com/" target="_blank">Concha y Toro</a>. And no, they didn't let me take that bottle with me.<br /><br />All in all, it was an up and down sort of trip. Easter Island was definitely an unforgettable experience, and a sombre reminder of man's ability to destroy himself. I think we'd gladly go back for the skiing and the winery visits. The cities, not so much. I'd like to see the far north and the far south next time around.</span>