Camino de Santiago: Oviñana to Tapia de Casariego

The team with I.'s mum, before departing. Behind is a former granary, elevated as such to ward off pests. Now used for storage and/or guests.



Neighborhood cat not impressed with interruption of siesta.



Passed by a classic car rally.



Protest sculpture, or so I'm told.



Luarca. Unanimous vote led to early lunch stop.



I guess they're not concerned about erosion.



Sorry, wrong Santiago.



The Simpsons' reach is impressive.



Lovely Tapia de Casariego. Body-surfing and body-boarding was curtailed by body-paining.



This pace seems more reasonable.



Time to consider onward plans. Amongst them: "don't leave Tapia de Casariego."



Let's just start with pulpo gallega at the Sidreria de Cubierta. And sardinas a la plancha. And almejas. And mejillones vinegreta. And navajas. And wash it all down with some albariño, 2008 Quinto de Couselo from O Rosal in Rias Baixas, a little plumper and juicier than most, but still with that mineral tang.



There's always time and place for fresh sweets from the night market.



And a chupito (after-dinner drink) quay-side. <img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_9T848u4wxrU/THWgX-siqMI/AAAAAAAACPs/VfLHBCIEF_Q/s400/IMGP5318.JPG" width="400" /><br />The team with I.'s mum, before departing. Behind is a former granary, elevated as such to ward off pests. Now used for storage and/or guests<span class="fullpost">.<br /><br /><br /><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_9T848u4wxrU/THWgay3yBPI/AAAAAAAACPw/X0qMvSLhfBU/s400/IMGP5320.JPG" width="400" /><br />Neighborhood cat not impressed with interruption of siesta.<br /><br /><br /><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_9T848u4wxrU/THWgdENXdSI/AAAAAAAACP4/VaH3lpVDr14/s400/IMGP5322.JPG" width="400"><br />Passed by a classic car rally.<br /><br /><br /><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_9T848u4wxrU/THWgfUAlABI/AAAAAAAACP8/3W-xncZDfNI/s400/IMGP5328.JPG" width="400"><br />Protest sculpture, or so I'm told.<br /><br /><br /><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_9T848u4wxrU/THWglXJrQSI/AAAAAAAACQE/1cMGRUvrws0/s400/IMGP5335.JPG" width="400"><br />Luarca. Unanimous vote led to early lunch stop.<br /><br /><br /><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_9T848u4wxrU/THWgnktN3bI/AAAAAAAACQI/ObbIsWwy6tk/s400/IMGP5342.JPG" width="400"><br />I guess they're not concerned about erosion.<br /><br /><br /><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_9T848u4wxrU/THWgt2noK9I/AAAAAAAACQQ/thUvsBIYhW0/s400/IMGP5348.JPG" width="400"><br />Sorry, wrong Santiago.<br /><br /><br /><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_9T848u4wxrU/THWgyd9L_gI/AAAAAAAACQY/yTlTgxKxQLE/s400/IMGP5350.JPG" width="400"><br />The Simpsons' reach is impressive.<br /><br /><br /><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_9T848u4wxrU/THWg2-pNvgI/AAAAAAAACQg/drCcfm-M_gc/s400/IMGP5353.JPG" width="400"><br />Lovely Tapia de Casariego. Body-surfing and body-boarding was curtailed by body-paining.<br /><br /><br /><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_9T848u4wxrU/THWg66zzkKI/AAAAAAAACQo/YdD_ZYUEa08/s400/IMGP5360.JPG" width="400"><br />This pace seems more reasonable.<br /><br /><br /><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_9T848u4wxrU/THWg8XxDZoI/AAAAAAAACQs/uC0lYoRrij8/s400/IMGP5368.JPG" width="400"><br />Time to consider onward plans. Amongst them: "don't leave Tapia de Casariego."<br /><br /><br /><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_9T848u4wxrU/THbs-gmTiqI/AAAAAAAACkA/s4WoYifSdTg/s400/IMGP5388.JPG" width="125" /><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_9T848u4wxrU/THWhJnjiq0I/AAAAAAAACRM/36_eLg4UO04/s400/IMGP5389.JPG" width="125" /><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_9T848u4wxrU/THbs6ufKa3I/AAAAAAAACj4/mTTrHaBsmkQ/s400/IMGP5386.JPG" width="125" /><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_9T848u4wxrU/THWhHvGGgJI/AAAAAAAACRI/-hBEp0FKF9s/s400/IMGP5384.JPG" width="125" /><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_9T848u4wxrU/THbs8heIPoI/AAAAAAAACj8/rUG75Ersyxg/s400/IMGP5387.JPG" width="125" /><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_9T848u4wxrU/THbqn_DNTII/AAAAAAAACjI/-3-sCak998I/s400/IMGP5391.JPG" width="125" /><br />Let's just start with <i>pulpo gallega </i>at the Sidreria de Cubierta. And <i>sardinas a la plancha</i>. And <i>almejas</i>. And <i>mejillones vinegreta</i>. And <i>navajas</i>. And wash it all down with some albariño, 2008 Quinto de Couselo from O Rosal in Rias Baixas, a little plumper and juicier than most, but still with that mineral tang.<br /><br /><br /><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_9T848u4wxrU/THWg_njJfiI/AAAAAAAACQ0/GHhqyVWrxWA/s400/IMGP5376.JPG" width="400"><br />There's always time and place for fresh sweets from the night market.<br /><br /><br /><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitvsok_64bAa8IeEu2Q1_5KOr1aAaHC1cMF9QAvHwVlYOtN0bnY_OGZUpCHbLNR5RAO2fm5HHN4ah4ths24HoMEgR4jhC59Y6cQKVSqU40qCmMXZXWckjrWAjwy-r4nDlKHYmf7Ukdu6BB/s400/IMGP5380.JPG" width="400"><br />And a <i>chupito</i> (after-dinner drink) quay-side.</span>

Camino de Santiago: Oviedo to Oviñana

After the non-existent siesta, we stopped in Oviedo, partial setting for the film Vicky Cristina Barcelona. Nothing so exciting happened here today.



Oviedo is famous for its cider bars, and naturally being attracted to all things famous...



But make haste, to the coast, to Y.'s friend's place, a lovely renovated fisherman's house.



Looking west, just a few hundred metres from home, The Goonies?



Some light snacks, and a tasty 2007 Crianza from C.V.N.E. (Compañía Vinícola del Norte de España), called Cune. It may not be up to very much, but it's leanings seemed to be very much antiguo rather than modern. And for only €5 in supermarkets.



Sadly, couldn't say the same for this crianza from Solar Viejo. Loaded with oak.



Fortunately, there was sufficient Asturian sidra to wash down my chuletón.



As it turned out, the only goonies we saw were performing at the local festival. <img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_9T848u4wxrU/THWgKIguqiI/AAAAAAAACPQ/TL1AvkHEv9k/s400/IMAG0346.jpg" width="400"><br />After the non-existent siesta, we stopped in Oviedo, partial setting for the film Vicky Cristina Barcelona. Nothing so exciting happened here today<span class="fullpost">.<br /><br /><br /><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_9T848u4wxrU/THbs2f0JF4I/AAAAAAAACjw/OGxD5c67HI8/s400/IMAG0344.jpg" width="400"><br />Oviedo <i>is</i> famous for its cider bars, and naturally being attracted to all things famous...<br /><br /><br /><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_9T848u4wxrU/THWgV8i6mCI/AAAAAAAACPo/zo5whIxrekQ/s400/IMGP5317.JPG" width="400"><br />But make haste, to the coast, to Y.'s friend's place, a lovely renovated fisherman's house.<br /><br /><br /><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_9T848u4wxrU/THWgS44L1_I/AAAAAAAACPg/gOjanN75A98/s400/IMGP5313.JPG" width="400"><br />Looking west, just a few hundred metres from home, The Goonies?<br /><br /><br /><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPWEPKFJGfnea1n7am3sP3uZ6pT_ftlJJwr1oUej1Cyk-hEm0VQSO7ymMVcg9kkvyLaB1YdNwnrmmAJiheP2qGmStPn-wfLNNDcmsx-8nGrTaISvwQ7btVVmElFcEKl0t7KvhMeBC5MiMy/s288/IMGP5285.JPG" width="400"><br />Some light snacks, and a tasty 2007 Crianza from <a href="http://www.cvne.com/web/" target="_blank">C.V.N.E.</a> (Compañía Vinícola del Norte de España), called <i>Cune</i>. It may not be up to very much, but it's leanings seemed to be very much <i>antiguo</i> rather than modern. And for only €5 in supermarkets.<br /><br /><br /><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvBj8F9tAf7KwJzVt5zevhQ7zlDsZX13cDfLsPJhhkuF1yIywhPnTRzygyTzhiUxaVA94lc73ssEBuzLuM-JPSSK1S572zvkMT7M8Bp87U0wFPbkEeA4fO7-MZxPK04Mm_vAADoLNS8l6Q/s400/IMGP5288.JPG" width="400"><br />Sadly, couldn't say the same for this crianza from Solar Viejo. Loaded with oak.<br /><br /><br /><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1-MsPQXBzcu2Jca19aajkW7ofudvoTJH49HI8Nz45I4-yA6XQeHTa1eT93kw2KarpWh50uKgeKt8b9VkRbDM7G_eKtGLDfXE78DbIBhFS2LxqLVydi8hsYn5zMkoiFRhmbPNs9dU26vFp/s400/IMGP5286.JPG" width="400"><br />Fortunately, there was sufficient Asturian sidra to wash down my <i>chuletón</i>.<br /><br /><br /><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_9T848u4wxrU/THWgL01GTyI/AAAAAAAACPU/WVXOLeumZyg/s400/IMGP5293.JPG" width="400"><br />As it turned out, the only goonies we saw were performing at the local festival.</span>

Camino de Santiago: Santander to Picos de Europa

A quick visit to Santander market to eyeball the goods, and find some breakfast.



Fresh fish



Bacalao



Navajas, or razor clam.



Mejillones. Big-a** mussels.



Percebe, or gooseneck barnacles. Not sure which part to eat here.



Here, I find no such difficulties.



Beans.



Well, in spite of all the market activity, I still only managed to have coffee and toast for brekkie. Sigh. Passing through San Vicente de la Barquera. We postulated that it would be lovely to set up a table on that sandbar and order drinks.



Mountains looming.



Leaving Cantabria, entering Asturian cider country!



Parque Nacional Picos de Europa



Sadly, this place wouldn't open for another thirty minutes, rebuffing our offer to wait inside and. Smelled so good.



Ah, well, Restaurante Alto de las Estazadas had better views anyways.



The starter was Fabada Asturiana. Beans and morcilla and chorizo and fatty-back. Mmmm... with apple juice.



Escalopes de cerdo al Cabrales and Cabrito (roast goat leg). And chips. And some sort of local wine. This was followed by the hostess' grandmother's cheesecake, which was tremendous. Obviously, the siesta is much-needed tradition. <img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_9T848u4wxrU/THWfbaGhCkI/AAAAAAAACOA/wWMQfodT-Mw/s400/IMGP5225.JPG" width="400"><br />A quick visit to Santander market to eyeball the goods, and find some breakfast<span class="fullpost">.<br /><br /><br /><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEih3_pg6LuH97pPh5LwVKbwxjEjolS_MjRieHra_CDfpomiX4FY2DtVyXYZy4swM0QukT_V50ubft9WHuLB7u4Qtei7lHu3Wt8hnQF4koj_01ism-T7RxqUHywcUg43VJ_T9_J_Gj-Ud8g2/s400/IMGP5239.JPG" width="400"><br />Fresh fish<br /><br /><br /><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_9T848u4wxrU/THWfdwU1RiI/AAAAAAAACOE/mY10sNzqgj0/s400/IMGP5231.JPG" width="400"><br />Bacalao<br /><br /><br /><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_9T848u4wxrU/THWfrI4IZrI/AAAAAAAACOU/9JgAnuvyyJk/s400/IMGP5240.JPG" width="400"><br />Navajas, or razor clam.<br /><br /><br /><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_9T848u4wxrU/THWfuMopM_I/AAAAAAAACOY/6F_CW-3kMN4/s400/IMGP5241.JPG" width="400"><br />Mejillones. Big-a** mussels.<br /><br /><br /><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_9T848u4wxrU/THWfgQqEVxI/AAAAAAAACOI/dqvwKmDWab4/s400/IMGP5232.JPG" width="400"><br />Percebe, or gooseneck barnacles. Not sure which part to eat here.<br /><br /><br /><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_9T848u4wxrU/THWflp9E9HI/AAAAAAAACOM/F5bFRuk77Do/s400/IMGP5234.JPG" width="400"><br />Here, I find no such difficulties.<br /><br /><br /><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_9T848u4wxrU/THWfopLMkEI/AAAAAAAACOQ/DyUMQQpbPL8/s400/IMGP5237.JPG" width="400"><br />Beans.<br /><br /><br /><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_9T848u4wxrU/THWfv2KSqJI/AAAAAAAACOc/tE_FEwy8_zs/s400/IMGP5251.JPG" width="400"><br />Well, in spite of all the market activity, I still only managed to have coffee and toast for brekkie. Sigh. Passing through San Vicente de la Barquera. We postulated that it would be lovely to set up a table on that sandbar and order drinks.<br /><br /><br /><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_9T848u4wxrU/THWfxOEyfJI/AAAAAAAACOg/MVG5Lj6TWSQ/s400/IMGP5258.JPG" width="400"><br />Mountains looming.<br /><br /><br /><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_9T848u4wxrU/THWfz0oM3OI/AAAAAAAACOk/aLbFDjSdUME/s400/IMGP5266.JPG" width="400"><br />Leaving Cantabria, entering Asturian cider country!<br /><br /><br /><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_9T848u4wxrU/THWf2lnjr9I/AAAAAAAACOs/T1FT-ensBv8/s400/IMGP5268.JPG" width="400"><br />Parque Nacional Picos de Europa<br /><br /><br /><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_9T848u4wxrU/THWf5ey-eZI/AAAAAAAACOw/zOrwy9xHMcA/s400/IMGP5269.JPG" width="400"><br />Sadly, this place wouldn't open for another thirty minutes, rebuffing our offer to wait inside and. Smelled so good.<br /><br /><br /><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_9T848u4wxrU/THWf7uFPe8I/AAAAAAAACO0/4TEcFcYjjnM/s400/IMGP5271.JPG" width="400"><br />Ah, well, Restaurante Alto de las Estazadas had better views anyways.<br /><br /><br /><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_9T848u4wxrU/THWf9Z7-CFI/AAAAAAAACO4/NwO8YdNBvoY/s400/IMGP5275.JPG" width="400"><br />The <i>starter</i> was <i>Fabada Asturiana</i>. Beans and <i>morcilla</i> and <i>chorizo</i> and fatty-back. Mmmm... with apple juice.<br /><br /><br /><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_9T848u4wxrU/THWf_Npy5MI/AAAAAAAACO8/xlq-lvO9q_c/s400/IMGP5277.JPG" width="400"><br /><i>Escalopes de cerdo al Cabrales</i> and <i>Cabrito</i> (roast goat leg). And chips. And some sort of local wine. This was followed by the hostess' grandmother's cheesecake, which was tremendous. Obviously, the siesta is much-needed tradition.</span>

Camino de Santiago: Bilbao to Santander

Hola chicos! Which way to Santander?



Cresting at La Rigada, about to enter Cantabria.



Just in time for the local Saint's Day.



After a punishing climb, a whole new respect for cyclists.



Sadly, what goes up must come down only to go back up again.



A quick post-lunch dip at Castro-Urdiales.



Time warp.



Finally, on the Camino de Santiago.



Each beach more lovely than the last.



Really, this is too much.



The town of El Pantarron de Guriezo has only one bar.



But crucially, it serves coffee.



Laredo.



The least helpful tourist information kiosk in the world.



Yeah, yeah, you're so fast. We get it.



Pretty countryside in Cantabria, but no wine DOC.



Arrival in Santander.



View from the hospedaje (our hotel.)



Towards Calle Burgos and the pedestrianised zones.



Don't know what it says, but I like it.



Delicious tapas here.



Exhibit A.



Gambas.



Langostinos.



Jamon at an ancient winebar. <img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_9T848u4wxrU/THWd8HbFXGI/AAAAAAAACLQ/uZ5KnkheJvo/s400/IMGP5112.JPG" width="400"><br />Hola chicos! Which way to Santander<span class="fullpost">?<br /><br /><br /><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_9T848u4wxrU/THWeEoC2SYI/AAAAAAAACLg/d7HTbbz9t-Y/s400/IMGP5116.JPG" width="400"><br />Cresting at La Rigada, about to enter Cantabria.<br /><br /><br /><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_9T848u4wxrU/THWeHRjG3zI/AAAAAAAACLk/vkYaigwawR8/s400/IMGP5117.JPG" width="400"><br />Just in time for the local Saint's Day.<br /><br /><br /><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_9T848u4wxrU/THWeQceNJNI/AAAAAAAACL0/jAu4a1pXGKc/s400/IMGP5126.JPG" width="400"><br />After a punishing climb, a whole new respect for cyclists.<br /><br /><br /><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_9T848u4wxrU/THWeOMBvyZI/AAAAAAAACLw/JwLhc7Ne-v8/s400/IMGP5124.JPG" width="400"><br />Sadly, what goes up must come down only to go back up again.<br /><br /><br /><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_9T848u4wxrU/THWeTsVnXDI/AAAAAAAACL8/fKk0sfQox64/s400/IMGP5133.JPG" width="400"><br />A quick post-lunch dip at Castro-Urdiales.<br /><br /><br /><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_9T848u4wxrU/THWeYIsJU6I/AAAAAAAACME/tCJ8qLXD2j0/s400/IMGP5155.JPG" width="400"><br />Time warp.<br /><br /><br /><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_9T848u4wxrU/THWebInHYlI/AAAAAAAACMI/nIzd5V7WZts/s400/IMGP5157.JPG" width="400"><br />Finally, on the Camino de Santiago.<br /><br /><br /><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_9T848u4wxrU/THWedU_gAtI/AAAAAAAACMM/pYM2NrBV3UE/s400/IMGP5159.JPG" width="400"><br />Each beach more lovely than the last.<br /><br /><br /><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_9T848u4wxrU/THWeftWmj5I/AAAAAAAACMQ/xawIwVWRcng/s400/IMGP5160.JPG" width="400"><br />Really, this is too much.<br /><br /><br /><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_9T848u4wxrU/THWekEv0l_I/AAAAAAAACMY/RElKK8u2NPs/s400/IMGP5164.JPG" width="400"><br />The town of El Pantarron de Guriezo has only one bar.<br /><br /><br /><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_9T848u4wxrU/THWeh14HY6I/AAAAAAAACMU/gFleasAqVSc/s400/IMGP5163.JPG" width="400"><br />But crucially, it serves coffee.<br /><br /><br /><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_9T848u4wxrU/THWetavaIfI/AAAAAAAACMo/EfIt9kNW7So/s400/IMGP5167.JPG" width="400"><br />Laredo.<br /><br /><br /><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_9T848u4wxrU/THWewHdJDsI/AAAAAAAACMs/OB1OaxGKwnY/s400/IMGP5168.JPG" width="400"><br />The least helpful tourist information kiosk in the world.<br /><br /><br /><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_9T848u4wxrU/THWeyzZ9EsI/AAAAAAAACMw/WO3CyjYVVxY/s400/IMGP5170.JPG" width="400"><br />Yeah, yeah, you're so fast. We get it.<br /><br /><br /><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_9T848u4wxrU/THWe14cuiNI/AAAAAAAACM0/VdxU-p7Frnw/s400/IMGP5175.JPG" width="400"><br />Pretty countryside in Cantabria, but no wine DOC.<br /><br /><br /><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_9T848u4wxrU/THWe43xs1ZI/AAAAAAAACM4/eblQCmDHIUU/s400/IMGP5179.JPG" width="400"><br />Arrival in Santander.<br /><br /><br /><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_9T848u4wxrU/THWe63A74cI/AAAAAAAACM8/c0EOhFiYDBE/s400/IMGP5180.JPG" width="400"><br />View from the hospedaje (our hotel.)<br /><br /><br /><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_9T848u4wxrU/THWfARDts-I/AAAAAAAACNI/uq1ZqB4ctCU/s400/IMGP5184.JPG" width="400"><br />Towards Calle Burgos and the pedestrianised zones.<br /><br /><br /><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_9T848u4wxrU/THWfJKgSRAI/AAAAAAAACNY/V0hTWhkHxgY/s400/IMGP5199.JPG" width="400"><br />Don't know what it says, but I like it.<br /><br /><br /><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_9T848u4wxrU/THWfNjeiI4I/AAAAAAAACNk/QFwKphLTwpQ/s400/IMGP5212.JPG" width="400"><br />Delicious tapas here.<br /><br /><br /><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_9T848u4wxrU/THWfPTJns2I/AAAAAAAACNo/FYHxdc2DQyI/s400/IMGP5213.JPG" width="400"><br />Exhibit A.<br /><br /><br /><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_9T848u4wxrU/THbsx8-ed_I/AAAAAAAACjk/CtHG9Tl3f5Q/s400/IMGP5215.JPG" width="400"><br />Gambas.<br /><br /><br /><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_9T848u4wxrU/THbszpC_6SI/AAAAAAAACjo/pZitOhEatpw/s400/IMGP5218.JPG" width="400"><br />Langostinos.<br /><br /><br /><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_9T848u4wxrU/THWfTiit5UI/AAAAAAAACNw/dz8zf9JnFpc/s400/IMGP5222.JPG" width="400"><br />Jamon at an ancient winebar.</span>