Friday, November 18, 2005

The Evolution of a Cendol Snob


Over the past few years, R. has developed a taste for cendol, the great Malaysian shaved-ice drink. But really, how much can one learn, weaned on a diet of Sanur (NYC) and Penang (Philly) cendol? Time for her first trip to Malaysia.


We may have started off with the good stuff too soon. Baba-Nyonya cendol on Melaka's Jonker Street. After this, R. was even thumbing her nose at a good mamak cendol just a few minutes later. I'd created a monster.


Up to Penang, R. was not looking impressed. "I don't think these guys even have pulot, are you kidding me?"

Down to Singapore, armed with the Makansutra guide, R. would barely give Singapore cendol the time of day. "Even Penang Road cendol is better than this stuff." Oh dear.


I was definitely troubled. I found myself married to a full-on cendol fiend. When my uncle pulled off the side of the road somewhere near Seremban, heavily travelled by lumber-lorries, I definitely had my concerns.


R. tasted. "Pulot also got. Gula ok, not gula melaka, but ok." Well, at least she was assuaged, if not satisfied.

Thursday, November 17, 2005

Penang, Thailand, and Singapore


And so to Market Street in Penang, home to Karaikudi Restaurant and delicious biriyani!


After lunch, we went to book flights to Singapore, and having accomplished that, it was time for dessert. My cousin led us to Ali Babur's Kacang stall. Apparently it had been some time since he'd been, as his first, loud, exclamation was, "WAAAHHHH....SO fancy!!! R. nearly lost it...what exactly was so fancy about this place? Apparently, they now have a roof and two stools - buckets, actually - to sit on. Going upscale indeed! The kacang was delicious!


A new Buddha statue on Penang.


After skipping out on Uncle Chili Bob, we decided to take a day trip across the Thai border to Betong, a not particularly inspiring town, but full of massage parlours and tasty restaurants.


So tasty, in fact, that as our food came out, the waitresses made off with my little cousin. Ok, not really, but they were very taken with her.

kuih
On to Singapore, but having landed up at the airport 45 minutes before our flight departed, my cousin that this would be a perfect time to go find some kuih - Malaysian cakes. Only took us 40 minutes to find. That left 5 minutes to spare though! R. was not pleased, but she was ok once she started chowing on some pulut inti.


Wrapping up our trip, a couple of days in Singapore. Good food, plenty of foot reflexology, and lots of pre-Christmas shopping along Orchard Road. All in all, an excellent effort by R.

To Malaysia

Boh Tea
Our first trip to Malaysia together, I hadn't been in about 3 years, and this would be R.'s first trip to S.E. Asia.


Not quite durian season.


Down to Melaka, where literally nothing was happening, except for the eating of cendol. That's me in seat K-12.


To Klang for a smash-up Chinese meal with the family.


"We're not yet open!"


You are now!


Up to the Cameron Highlands, for a visit to the Boh tea estates.


Some R&R time at the Bukit Merah Lake Town Resort, which is also home to an animal sanctuary on an island in the middle of the lake.


No prizes for guessing who lives on Orang Utan Island. The infant care unit was a highlight.

Tuesday, October 18, 2005

MSNYC Bike Tour 2005

duo
My powers of persuasion must have been at their apex, as I convinced not only R. to join me, but T. to give the Multiple Sclerosis Society of New York's annual cycling event another go this past weekend.

ERD
Up East River Drive.

Lincoln Tunnel
Through the Lincoln Tunnel.

GWB
And over the George Washington Bridge. The promise of free post-tour massages must have helped - much less complaining this time around!

Friday, April 15, 2005

Peru, Part III

paragliding
Back to Lima to wrap things up.


Dinner show at Manos Morenas in Barranco, home to the fusion style music called Criolla. And great food too. Seriously a highlight of our trip, and well worth a visit. This guy was also a talent on the cajon, enough so that we were inspired to go out and buy one for ourselves to bring home.


Paragliding in Miraflores. It became clear the second time my guy failed to complete a landing that he hadn't done this much before. My 15 minute ride turned into almost 40 minutes. The folks at the Larcomar shopping centre were probably wondering why we kept hovering past.

pizza hut pina colada
Biggest piña colada ever. Unfortunately, it was at Pizza Hut. My concession to R. and G. after a week of culinary struggles.


Still, a great, great trip! Our last meal, some good ceviche, more steak, Peruvian wine, and pisco. That's a sendoff!

Wednesday, April 13, 2005

Peru, Part II

Andes
From Lima, we flew to Cusco. At a height of more than 10,000 feet, we felt the effects immediately. None of us succumbed to altitude sickness, but the shortness of breath was pronounced. Not enough that we needed the oxygen cylinders (available at our hotel), but enough that we had to take it easy for a bit. Hilly place, this Cusco.

wine
After catching our breath, we went for some lunch - pizza, and some Peruvian wine. Not great, but not awful.

Cusco
A view of Cusco.

fate
Tempting fate. Huge peals of thunder followed immediately.

cuy
A downside of semi-guided tours? Dinner performances. Ok, ok, the costumes were interesting, the songs were interesting, but the food was definitely only so so. R. is not pleased with my sampling of the llama and the cuy - guinea pig. But the troupe of Japanese visitors was entertaining.

Hot Wine
Travelling between Ollantaytambo and Chinchero, we stopped in the market town of Písac and saw this curious sign in the market. Didn't try, not sure I want to.

macchu picchu
And onto Macchu Picchu.

Aguas Calientes
The swollen waters of Aguas Calientes.

rafting
Class IV and V rapids on the Urubamba River, south of Cusco.

Monasterio
A fine dinner at Hotel Monasterio back in Cusco.

wine cellar
Wine cellar at 10,000 feet. Does it age differently at altitude? Slower oxidation rates?

Friday, April 8, 2005

Peru, Part I

Chino Wong
This is a trip long time coming. While at Oxford, my friend M. invited me to come London for a Peruvian concert he had free tickets to - M. had a way of getting free tickets for things. Anyways, the performer was Susana Baca, who I was already a fan of. Fast forward a few years to another Afro-Peruvian jazz concert in Philadelphia a few weeks ago, and the stage was set for a trip to Peru, with my sister G. joining us.

Plaza de Armas
We got to Lima in one piece, installed ourselves into the hotel in Miraflores, and launched on a tour of the city, starting with the Plaza de Armas.

Barriadas
The barriadas of Cerro San Cristóbal in Rímac. Half of Lima's 10M live in similar communities.

La Carreta
Having some pre-dinner Pisco Sours at La Carreta, a popular steakhouse in San Isidro.

Bus to Ica
Taking a bus south to Ica. Ica is the gateway to the desert of the famous Nazca lines, and is also a major centre for the production of pisco. Unfortunately, it looked like we reached the end of the world before getting there.

Inca Kola
Yes, end of the world indeed. Billboards for the bubble-gum flavoured Inca Kola.

Ground Control to Major Inca Kola
The control tower at the Ica airport. If Gilligan's Island had an airport, this would fit right in.

Nazca
Over the Nazca desert. This is a dry riverbed, but the lines themselves were incredible.

Sandboarding
Sandboarding on the dunes of Huacachina. Fun.


But not as much fun as the dune buggies!

Miraflores
Miraflores. Down on the pier is a popular seafood restaurant. Unfortunately R. and G. are amongst the least adventurous eaters in the world, so we didn't go there. I'm not bitter. That said, the alternative was just as curious - chifa, the Peruano version of Chinese food. The food was really just ok, but it turns out there was a wedding reception on at the restaurant, and we were the only diners who weren't guests.


At the end of their dinner, a microphone came out, with speeches and such. Things took a turn though, when we heard the words "famous American singer" - turns out Gloria Loring was somebody's auntie and came to Lima for the occasion - and gave us all a performance of her hit single, "Friends and Lovers." Clearly, time to get out of Lima.

Saturday, February 5, 2005

Having a Ball in Austria

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Returned to Vienna last week for a quasi-grad-school reunion, something R. tries to organise annually - a week's festivities, including lots of wine, an evening at a Viennese Ball, and skiing. Magic! And, time for a quick stop at Julius Meinl for some Kracher.

group
And then to meet the team at a heuriger in Vienna. Great to see old man G. again, plus S. and L., and our man from Philly.

birthday
R.'s 2nd 18th Birthday. A recurrent theme for the week, minus the accordionist.

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Sister and Brother, next day, pre-pre-ball festivities, at a heuriger in the 19th district.

broken
Early casualty.

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Pre-Ball Drinks at the just-opened Style Hotel, around the corner from the Hofburg.

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Ready to make our entrance to the Wiener Arzte Ball at the Hofburg.

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The Debutantes

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G. meets the ladies from the Canadian Ice Capades. S. and R. are highly, highly entertained.

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With S. and L.

drinks
The next day. On to Linz and Schloss M.

strude
Frau M. makes incredible, incredible strudel. Outside of my own mum, maybe my favorite cook?

alvear
Sweets for the sweet.

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And then, onto beautiful Bad Gastein, via Salzburg.

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Where no couples are allowed?

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Legendary pizzeria. It was snowing so heavily that we actually lost the group walking just in front of us. We then spied a sign for a Singaporean restaurant and very well nearly lost our minds. Couldn't find it, and ducked into the first place that looked open. Score, times two. Pizza and Men's Night specials.

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Men's Night special: Fernet branca. Lose 1 point.

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Catching up with the team. Snow battle casualty.

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Whiteout skiing conditions.

greek
Lovely Greek food. No retsina. Opa!

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Recap of the week's festivities

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And finally, R.'s 27th 18th Birthday, with Edelbrand. A tremendous week of wine, women and song!