Sunday, February 28, 2010

2006 Les Crêtes Torrette Vigne Les Toules

Les Crêetes Torrette Vigne Les Toules2006 Les Crêtes Torrette Vigne Les Toules (Aymavilles, Valle d'Aoste (DOC))

What a delightful wine this is, or rather was, as it was "disappeared" rapidly! 12.5% abv will do that, but oh so tasty. 70% Petite Rouge, 30% "miscellaneous." Organically produced. The terrain is moraine - had to look that up - "unconsolidated glacial debris", sandy slopes facing every direction, at an altitude of 500 to 650 meters. Guyot trained vines, manually harvested, about 4 tons per acre yield. 8 days fermentation in INOX, followed by 8 months aging in steel before bottling. Production is at a pretty good clip, 40,000 bottles.

Crystalline black cherry colour. Bright and fresh nose, cranberries, with both citrus and cream notes, with a definite loamy undercurrent. The nose carries onto the palate, light to mid-weight, almost frizzy acidity upfront, with a definite fade, settling smartly, juicy yet dry, finishing softly. Sour cherry and mineral driven, not very complex, but easy drinking and [poof], it was gone! $21, methinks this a repeat purchase.

Saturday, February 27, 2010

For Beach Sake

San Dieguito Estuary
Where better to drink sake than on the beach? At the San Dieguito Estuary, to be specific, amongst the Least Tern, the Light-Footed Clapper Rail, the Western Snow Plover, Belding's Savannah Sparrow, the California Brown Pelican, and the... seagulls. Filthy creatures.


Shimizu no Mai Junmai Ginjo Pure Dawn
Shimizu no Mai Pure Dawn Junmai Ginjo from Akita Shurui Seizoh. The company itself was the result of a wartime merger of 12 Akita breweries, but is now well known for its Takashimizu brand.

Akita Sake Komachi and Miyamanishiki milled to 45%, SMV +3, acidity 1.3, amino acidity 1.0, and 15.5% abv. Pretty, fragrant melon nose. Very clean and light, almost ethereal, with light pear, mineral and steam notes. Yes, steam. But who knows, I was mostly smelling and tasting the ocean, which also wanted some...


Shimizu no Mai Pure Dawn

Friday, February 26, 2010

Pliny the Elder

Russian River Pliny the ElderRussian River Brewing’s Pliny the Elder, that is. Per the label's numerous admonitions, this is not to be aged:

Pliny the Elder is a historical figure, don’t make the beer in this bottle one.”

"Not a barley wine, do not age!"

"Age your cheese, not your Pliny!"

"Respect hops, consume fresh!"

"Consume Pliny fresh, or not at all!"

"Respect your Elder: Keep cold, drink fresh, do not age!"

"If you must, sit on eggs, not on Pliny!"

"Does not improve with age!"

"Hoppy beers are not meant to be aged! Keep away from heat!"


So, best enjoy this beer's fulsome hoppiness. And why Pliny? Well, it turns out that the first written reference to hops was in Pliny's Naturalis Historia. See? Beer is educational.

Bottled 12/23/09, Golden orange amber colour. Fragrant and green nose, very citrus-y hops, marmalade, verbena, mint, grass eucalyptus. You get the idea. On the palate, crisp but persistently bitter, viscous, almost chewy, but the bitterness is cleansing, a lot of presence. Hops, of course, pine tar, pine sap, very sharp sour citrus acidity on the attack, orange and more pine. The 8% abv is barely noticeable. Paired with the cool evening Pacific sea breeze on my aunt’s balcony in Del Mar, with date trees waving overhead. An ideal pairing, no? Very interesting brew, though the bitterness might be too much for some… too many IBU for you? Normally, I wouldn't go for a beer this hoppy, but the pine and citrus notes balance things out for me. I have managed to sneak an extra bottle into my suitcase for immediate consumption.

Wednesday, February 24, 2010

Nøgne Ø brews sake!

Nøgne Ø(Photo published with permission from Nøgne Ø)

Fellow Mukune intern, Kjetil Jikiun, is currently brewing sake! Check it out!

Monday, February 22, 2010

Nøgne Ø #100

Nøgne Ø #100
#100 (23.5°P, 80 IBU, 10% abv) - the Ø's 100th batch, a private batch for the brewers themselves, but released all the same. First time I've ever had a bottle top break on me, but so it did... I was struggling to get it open and off a bit sheared. No casualties though, and nothing into the bottle as far as I could tell. Poured a deep black-brown, with a small but creamy head. Dry sour chocolate, hops, minty pine and molasses on the nose, decidedly dark chocolate and persistent hoppy bitterness on the palate, with more sweet molasses, cherries, and earthy wet-bark notes. Sweet but not too sweet, viscous but not too viscous, bitter, but not too bitter.

Now, the label says "Barley Wine-Style Ale." This doesn't taste like any barley wine I've had... it's more Imperial IPA-like than anything else, I think. Pretty exceptional stuff, but a stiff admission price ($18) for the privilege.

Sunday, February 21, 2010

Kikuhime Yamahai Junmai [1 Koku - 32]

Kikuhime Yamahai Junmai
It isn't often that buying a sake is accompanied by warnings, but Ishikawa Prefecture's Kikuhime's Yamahai sake have developed just such a reputation. As John Gauntner writes, "[T]his is some of the strongest-flavored sake in Japan." Variously described as "for serious sake drinkers," "not for beginners," and "extreme." Well, yes, the yamahai style of sake - airborne yeast, no stirring - typically is a massive departure from the light & clean brews that more commonly carry sake's mantle. If the ideal is mizumitai, yamahai swings to the other end of the spectrum.

I'm not at all averse to yamahai, but the isshobin format is challenging, as these aren't usually session brews. But, to the bold belongs the glory, no? This junmai yamahai is brewed, as are all their sake, from Yamada Nishiki, milled to 70%, SMV +2, acidity 2.0, and 16.5% abv. The first sign that there's something different here is the golden lemon colour. Turns out that the toji has a thing against carbon-filtration - not that he doesn't use it, but just to the bare minimum. Tangy and roasted on the nose, which carries over to the palate, vibrate and savoury. On the sweet side, but the tangyness brings this back to center, layers of nutty caramel sweetness, herbs, wood spice, and savoury tang. Still, not as funky/gamy as I expected, not as much of the mushroom/earth components as in others, but what bright sourness! Excellent, big time stuff, I'd say it's a pretty approachable yamahai - somewhere between the Kariho Namahage and the Tengumai Yamahai. Then again, judging by the reactions of some yamahai neophytes, maybe this is still not for beginners? I hear the genshu version is rather more unhinged!

Now, one more reason to like the folks at Kikuhime: they are hosting a sake tasting with the express intent of pairing sake with Indian food! I've been saying this for a long time now, glad to see someone in Japan is thinking the same way. So, if you are in Shinjo City on Sunday, March 7th, consider a visit to Rubina - three sessions, one at lunch, two at dinner. If I were in the area, this is where I'd be!

Friday, February 19, 2010

Daishichi Honjozo Kimoto

Daishichi Kimoto
I am deeply pained by these duplicates in my One Koku Quest, as it pushes back the goal, but sourcing new isshobin isn't always easy. The pain is eased by the awesomeness inside though... and this... this, I can now get easily. Henceforth, this will be our go-to bottle when new bottlings are unavailable.

Daishichi Honjozo Kimoto from Fukushima Prefecture. Gohyakumangoku milled to 69%, SMV +1, acidity 1.3, 15.5% abv. The sweetness is a little more prominent than the last bottle, maybe b/c I'm mostly drinking this at room temperature. Despite the sweetness, deep and satisfying, with surprising savoury notes popping up here and there.. some bitterness, some earthy mushroominess, yet overall pretty clean and bright, with a starchy, softly dry finish. Yeah, it's good.

Wednesday, February 17, 2010

Bières du Ciel

brasserie du ciel
A selection of microbrews from Québec's Dieu du Ciel, picked up at the amazing Marché Jean Thalon on our visit to Montréal last October.


Route des épices (Spice Route) - Peppercorn rye beer, 5% abv.

pepperClear reddish brown, moderately carbonated. Unsurprisingly, prominent but mild aromas and flavours of peppercorns. I didn't find it particularly "hot" or "spicy", like chile beers often are. Despite the mildness, and the rather "one-noted-ness", I still found this appealing... would have been nice with a peppery Stroganov...


Péché Mortel (Mortal Sin) - Bottle conditioned Imperial coffee stout, 9.5% abv.

Mortal SinThin, quickly evaporating head on this. Smells like dark chocolate mocha almond ice cream... Ben and Jerry's, baby! Creamy, smooth, delicious coffee flavour, nutty, light sour coffee bean notes, mild bitters. A subtle sweetness, more Spanish roast than French or Italian. Really captures the coffee essence. Not a heavy or thick brew, less unctuous and viscous than I was expecting, the alcohol is well disguised. In my opinion, the best beer of the lot, I would certainly buy/drink this again!


Fumisterie (Smoke Screen) - Hemp beer, 5.5% abv.

smoke screenAn orangey-reddish-brown hue to match the label. Certainly has an herbal note to the nose, but not that herb. Also chocolate and malt. Medium-full-bodied - lightly creamy, but not very viscous, slate, grassiness, a pleasant bitter hoppiness/herbality on the finish. Again, not anything particularly hempish.


Rosée d'hibiscus - Bottle conditioned hibiscus flower bière blanche, 5.5% abv

hibiscusThis is somewhere in between whatever it purports to be. Unlike any wheat beer I've ever had, it seems to want to be a gueuze, and yet, it isn't. Strawberry tomato in color, the nose is exotically floral, tropical fruit, especially papaya, and yes, hibiscus - recalls karkady (كَركَديه),the sweet hibiscus tea we've been fans of ever since visiting Egypt ten years back. I think the Jamaican's sorrel drink is more spiced than the karkady. Anyways... on the palate, this hibiscus-beer is completely dry, smoky, nutty and mild, with a mild melon and hibiscus flavour, but no real tang or sourness. It's very very different. Giving me ideas... I'm thinking hibiscus shandy next summer...


Corne du diable (Horn of the Devil) - India Pale Ale, 6.5% abv

DiableA red ale, with a very hoppy nose, pine undertones, and suggestive of brett. Mild but persistent bitterness, nice minerality, subtle fruitiness and a touch of malty caramel. On the whole, a rather pleasant beer.


Dernière Volonté (Last Will) - Bottle conditioned blond Abbey-style beer, 6.5% abv
Last Will
Lightly cloudy amber, fair amount of residue in the bottle. Light nose, floral with undertones of malt. Lightly creamy mouthfeel. Initially dry but then sweetens, orange bitters, hoppy, pleasantly bitter finish. Like a pale ale. Nice.


Overall, these beers were more than decent - some interesting notes, but other than the Péché Mortel, I don't know that I'd particularly want to sit down with any of these over again, or for more than one small glass at a time. I do think, though, that with such a varied and adventurous lineup, these beers might make for an interesting multi-course meal pairing. Lots to work with. Fun labels too.

Monday, February 15, 2010

Nøgne Ø Brown Ale

Nogne O Brown Ale
The Ø's Brown Ale (11°P, 27 IBU, 4.5% abv) pours very dark brown, with a small but extremely persistent head. Hoppy nose, but mild, malty flavour, definite chocolate and roasted notes, while avoiding being thick/sweet/syrupy. Some dried cherries, and a hint of mushroomy broth/funk.Very faint hoppiness. With a fresh cold pour, thin and simple, but with complexity increasing rapidly as it comes to room temperature. Good acidity and brightness all over the palate, nice clean finish. Mild, very easy drinking ale, not particularly bitter. Even at 4.5% abv, this has "session ale" written all over it. A solid, refreshing, 4 season brew. Well done!

Saturday, February 13, 2010

Nihonkai Tokubetsu Junmai [1 Koku - 33]

Nihonkai in the park
I think there is a sad story behind this "Sea of Japan" sake. According to the label, released by Shiokawa Shuzo of Niigata. However, the U.S. importer, Mutual Trading, states that this sake is from Ito Shuzo, which makes its home in Mie Prefecture!

As best as I can make out, Nihonkai was the brand name of a sake produced by one Ito-Uchino, of Niigata City. Seems reasonable that the aforementioned Ito Shuzo is the parent company. Well, Ito's Niigata operations have ceased, even some of the brewery's buildings razed. It seems though that at least the Nihonkai brand lives on, presumably through acquisition by Shiokawa. Not great news for Niigata sake, and I'm not entirely sure of this sake's provenance. Shiokawa's website doesn't appear to mention it - indeed, their line of sake is called "Koshi no Seki" (Koshi's Champion). However, Shiokawa does list a tokubetsu junmai under that name with a nearly identical profile to this sake, so it stands to reason that what we have here is an export bottling under the old name.

I don't know when all this took place, but the bottling date is from August, so the brand at least survives. Gohyakumangoku milled to 60%, SMV +4.5, acidity 1.3, amino acidity 1.1, 15% abv. Surprisingly yellow, clear aromas and flavour of steamed rice and minerals, a light savoury touch, almost saline. Quite soft and round, softer than I'd expect, but that might have been to the depth of the cold at which this was "formally" tasted. Clean, solid and enjoyable. I hope we'll continue to enjoy it.

Friday, February 12, 2010

雪国 (Snow Country)

cannons45 inches of snow in Philadelphia, from late last Friday night through to the early morning hours of Thursday. Not too shabby, though in these southern states, they do nearly go paralytic. I will now demonstrate how to cope.


promenadeFirst, you grab some friends and head out of the house. You need the exercise. Yes, you. Neither the shovelling nor the whingeing count.


Happiness is two bottles of sake - Aramasa and NihonkaiSome say that the reason why Icelanders manage to keep their cheer through their dark and cold winters is all the fish oil in their diets. For us, happiness is two bottles of sake.


winter bbqNot letting anything come between me and my barbecue is important. I do wish the ice on these tongs would melt though. Chorizo anyone?


looking out with NihonkaiNow, when great heaps of snow continue to dump on your head, just keep applying sake. In this case, Nihonkai from Niigata, our little tribute to Kawabata's novel, which was also set in Niigata.


just herBut first, I recommend building a snowdome in which to drink it in.


both insideMad Max (and myself), live from the Sake-Thunderdome. I'm thinking I need to build an extension.

Thursday, February 11, 2010

Cups Runneth Over

Wakatsuru Junmai Ginjo and Kosui Shizenjo Seikai Tokubetsu Junmai
Another day, another storm, another set of rewards for cleaning up.

Wakatsuru Junmai Ginjo (L) - from Wakatsuru Shuzo in Toyama Prefecture. Wakai Tsuru... young crane. Yamada Nishiki milled to 55%, SMV +3, acidity 1.4, 16% abv. Maybe it's because this was nearly ice cold, this came across as silky smooth to the point of roundness, very clean, nice simple rice flavour. Hit the spot.

Kosui Shizenjo Seikai Tokubetsu Junmai (R) - from Tochigi Prefecture's Watanabe Sahei Shoten, this is substantially different from their junmai ginjo - for one, no strawberries! Gohyakumangoku and Asahi no Yume milled to 60%, SMV +2, acidity 1.8, 15.5% abv. Very yellow, looks muroka, tastes very full and savoury, nutty, but finishes relatively mildly. And what a mouthful that name is!

"Now back to work, you!" Supervision is hard work... might need to get another drink in, just to cope.

worker


Wednesday, February 10, 2010

Aramasa Junmai [1 Koku - 34]

Aramasa Junmai
Aramasa from Akita Prefecture. The name can be, and used to be read as "Shinsei", but the current reading has the oh-so-glamorous meaning, "New Moral Administration." Doesn't that just grab you? 160 years and 7 generations of family management, and that's the best they could do?

Aramasa brews their sake with association yeast #6, which was apparently first isolated at this brewery itself, and is allegedly the oldest cultured yeast in use today. There does seem to be some conflicting information out there on this yeast though - you may read that #6 yeast is not widely used due to high acidity, yet Aramasa's own website explains that the yeast produces a "strong classical taste" (which they describe as mild), and with "low acidity." Once again, sake is everything, and it is nothing at all. Love it!

Not sure of the rice or the milling, but SMV +3, acidity 1.6, and 15.5% abv. Nutty sweet nose, acidity is bright, savoury, sweet butterscotch tones, roasted rice, nutty, plenty of presence, and a drying bitter finish. Not sure if this is a little bit old or warmly kept - bottled in April, it does look a bit yellow and touched by age. But given the backstory, maybe this is what they are going for? I think it quite nice, but R. found it all a bit much.

let's go already
And just so the world knows, when Madam decides she wants sake, she takes sake. When Madam decides it's cold out, she takes my puffy jacket. When those two worlds intersect, this is what it looks like. Perhaps if she'd taken her own jacket, she may have enjoyed this a touch more.

Tuesday, February 9, 2010

Kreuznacher

Last week I saw a wine which reminded me of one of my first major wine encounters. The wine was the 2007 Paul Anheuser Kreuznacher Mönchberg Scheurebe - not a wine I've had before actually, and in the end, not particularly good - oh, it had Scheurebe's characteristic black-fruitedness and grapefruit, but the palate was just too soft and flabby. It was the Kreuznacher that drew me in.

At the end of 1998, I spent my first graduate school winter break traveling around Germany seeing friends, old and new - one, a high-school foreign-exchange student classmate, another a German friend I met in Korea, and also some folks I had only just met at Oxford. One of these classmates, S., invited me to spend Christmas itself with his family, who lived in the district of Bad Kreuznach, in the village of Feilbingert.


Feilbingert is just one of many wine-growing villages in the region of Nahe, and I can't say if it is particularly famous for that, but nonetheless, it is what they do. And it happened that S.'s mother's boyfriend was a winemaker in Feilbingert. What I remember of those few days in Feilbingert is hazy - it started out with an afternoon tour of the winery, followed by a drive through the vineyards to the neighbouring village for the Christmas service.


Feilbingert was apparently so small that the minister was shared amongst a couple of other local villages. It was all very charming and rustic, but perhaps I should have taken warning by the fact that my S.'s family did not join us. For when we returned, they were assembled around the cellar hatch, from which cases - not just bottles - of sekt would appear, and disappear with alarming frequency. There is little evidence of the proceedings from that evening, apart from these two photos, taken in S.'s mum's kitchen, as we sat around drinking apricot brandy at 5AM on Christmas morning:

eyes
The rubber eye is relevant, as S.'s sister was an ophthalmologist, who ended up being so, um, caught up in the Christmas spirit, that she managed to fall down the stairs and lose a contact lens behind her eye and had to, embarrassingly I'm sure, have it emergently extracted at the hospital she worked at. And all that glorious hair!

blumenkohl
Meanwhile, having concluded my ode to blumenkohl, I would wake up a few hours later with the mother of all hangovers. S. and I were in no condition to face the world, let alone a sumptuous Christmas lunch, or the compendium of Udo Jürgens tunes I received as a gag gift.



Instead, we were driven back to Bad Kreuznach and delivered to the local sanitarium to soak in the region's famed salt baths. As we sat in the outdoor hot salt bath, with the wind and snow whipping across what little of our heads remained exposed, I recall using for the first time the expression, "feeling delicate" to describe my general sense of being. I won't soon forget the look of the bath attendant's face when I crawled into a tanning booth to receive some restorative UV.

Nor will I forget my hosts' wistful look of "perhaps having laid it on a bit thick" when I announced my approval of "traditional German Christmases."

Outstanding!

Sunday, February 7, 2010

Two Cup Sake

Oyaji Gokuraku and Nikko Homare
Well, just spent some time outdoors, digging ourselves and the neighbours out. Work is more rewarding when there's a reward.

Nikko Homare Junmai Ginjo - from Tochigi Prefecture's Watanabe Sahei Shoten. Gohyakumangoku rice and water from a source underneath Mt. Nikko. SMV +2, acidity 1.7, 15.5% abv. Very prominent, yet light notes of caramel, honey and strawberry jam on the nose, carrying over to the palate, creamy, soft, smooth and round, but enough acidity to balance it out, giving an overall sense of dryness. I don't know if the strawberry notes are just word-association, but it seemed real enough.

Oyaji Gokuraku Junmai Ginjo - from Tottori Prefecture's Chiyomusubi Shuzo. Goriki milled to 50%, SMV+5, acidity 1.6, 16% abv. Active nose, rich, round, floral but not sweet. Very prominent acidity, from start to finish, just very alive, lending a lightness to what is otherwise quite a full, rice-y and nutty palate.

Both very tasty.

Saturday, February 6, 2010

Zen Tokubetsu Junmai [1 Koku - 35]

Zen Tokubetsu Junmai
From Asabiraki Shuzo in Iwate Prefecture, home to the Nanbu Toji guild. Brewed from gin otome milled to 60%, SMV +2, acidity 1.5, amino acidity 1.4. Rich nose, medium-dry, quite full-flavoured, roasted notes, but not heavy, and transitions to a lighter and cleaner profile, smooth, the acidity isn't prominent, but this is very pleasant and balanced, with a soothing and long finish. A lovely sip. And today, an ideal tribute to the Nanbu guild's winter brewing style - near blizzard conditions, 15 hours non-stop snowfall, at least 15 inches, but parts of our patio are 2 feet deep (after shovelling a few hours ago).

Tuesday, February 2, 2010

N.V. André Clouet Champagne Cuvée 1911

Clouet Cuvee 1911André Clouet Cuvée 1911, the 13th release, bottle #1451, disgorged June 30, 2008. A blend of 1995 (25%), 1996 (50%), and 1997 (25%), 150% Champagne goodness.

The grapes are sourced from a single (Grand Cru) vineyard in Bouzy, "leased" from the French government with the understanding that no more than 1911 bottles of wine be produced at a time. And what is the significance of this number? A reference to the Champagne Riots of 1910-1911, a dispute primarily between growers (like Clouet) and the Grandes Marques et Maisons de Champagne. The dispute escalated to the point that some 40,000 French troops were sent in to enforce peace, and which ultimately resulted in the precursor to the AOC system.

Ok, enough history. Round and full, full of yeast, caramels, even some tropical fruit, yet dry and crisp, brightness led by lemons and pomegranates... PN power, but not overpowering, complex and deep, balanced, yet light and refreshing. Easy and enjoyable to drink, or to ponder.

Champagne critic Richard Juhlin writes about this cuvée, "[this wine] breathes flowery freshness and perfectly avoids the clumsiness that is often found in blanc de noirs." Go on son!

With the packaging of this bottle comes a little booklet giving the vital statistics for the wine, but also with this old photograph of the Family Clouet, presumably out for a picnic in the vineyards:

family photoGood times in the countryside.