Friday, August 27, 2010

Hakkaisan Tokubetsu Junmai

Hakkaisan Tokubetsu Junmai
Our One Koku quest has encountered a bit of a setback... lack of available, heretofore uncounted isshobin! I hope to set things back on track with a trip up north shortly, but until then... might have to drink some wine.

This note is from a week-old bottle, surprisingly only 3/4 finished by the time I got to it, thanks be to the Mrs, so these are not "fresh" notes. From Niigata Prefecture's Hakkaisan, gohyakumangoku milled to 60% and brewed with Akitakonno #2 yeast, SMV +5, acidity 1.4, amino acidity 1.3, and 15.5% abv. Floral and fruity nose, on the palate, soft, very clean, rather austere and lightly bitter until a fleeting rice sweetness overtakes. A little unsettled initially, but nice depth, will need to check out a fresher bottle for comparison.

Sunday, August 22, 2010

Back to Madrid, via Benavente


Being a Sunday, pretty much all the wineries along the way back home - Rias Baixas, Rueda, Valdeorras, Toro, Ribera del Duero... were closed. So, the only event of any importance was to be lunch. And that was almost a disaster. One o'clock. No restaurants, certainly not here in Toral de Fondo. Two o'clock. No restaurants. Three o'clock. No restaurants. 4 o'clock... Benavente.



We saw a sign for a Parador, an assured if pricey symbol of fine accommodation and food. What was it doing out here in the Styx, we wondered? And then we missed the turn. The next turn-off was at this Farina factory, but while making our u-turn...



...this sign caught our eye. Merendero Barbacoa "La Prendera" - the path didn't inspire much confidence, nor did the Sunday plato del dia, paella... paella, in the middle of landlocked Leon.



We. Were. Wrong. Not about the paella (which we didn't have), but everything else, which was excellent.



The proprietor. Everything on the menu was made by a friend or relative. He's only open 70 days a year, only in the summer, only in the evenings, except for Sundays, when he's also open for lunch. Super guy. Couldn't care less if you didn't think so.



Ensalada del Tio, Cecina Leonesa (cured bull beef), Morcilla Salamanca, Galochinas con "mejune" (anatomically, apparently part of the back of the chicken), and Pincho Moruno.



2009 Valleoscuro Rosado, a blend of prieto picudo (a local varietal) and tempranillo, one of the proprietor's own wines, licor de hierbas made by his uncle, smoothest example we'd tried all week, and finally natillas, a sort of crème brûlée without the brûlée.



Still, we'd come for the Parador, and finished with a superb coffee in the 830 year old tower.



Hard to imagine from present circumstances that this was once the capital of the Kingdom of Leon. Benavente. Worth seeking. Imperative to stop if your timing is right.

Saturday, August 21, 2010

Camino de Santiago: A Coruña to Santiago de Compostela


Loading up for the last leg.



Life's lesson learned: There's always another obstacle.



At first, no one wanted to go back the way we'd come. But then we learned the alternative was an extra 15km, and last night's sake and shisha and salsichon were weighing heavily...



This is as much of A Coruña as we saw.



"...IT'S THE FINAL COUNTDOWNNNN..." What? We're in Europe, aren't we?



...and, arrived!



Some who walked...



Not all in Santiago are penguins, er, peregrinos.


It seemed we should go inside the cathedral. The Botafumeiro, a giant incense censer. Apparently, swings alarmingly close to the people, at speeds approaching 70kmh. Only swung on "special occasions", or upon payment of €250. Nice.



Our final resting place, with a minor casualty. His name is dehydration.



"Yes, I've ordered two of everything."



Caldo gallega, mejillones, almejas, chipirones, and two albariño, the 2009 Condes de Albarei and the 2009 Señorio de Lazoiro.



I did not order the Tuna, but it came anyways. As explained to me, a sort of university-based musical fraternity. Kind of like marching band.



Good night Santiago.

Friday, August 20, 2010

Camino de Santiago: Covas to A Coruña


On to A Coruña, along the Galician coastline. You can almost smell the sea urchins.


Having a good support van is essential. Especially as a 16km climb beckoned.



Pelotilla ("little ball"). I refer to the SEAT, not the little man.



Pontedueme.



Crossing the ria de Betanzos.



After arriving in A Coruña, our destination for the evening, we spent a further 2 hours getting lost (thanks be to Blackberry), before coming across this construction path. Blackberry had not discerned the removal of the bridge across this rift...



...which was actually the excavation site for a new highway.



As you can see, this is not cycling.






Finally arrived!



Fortunately, a fiesta at our friend's place (and a comfy bed) set everything right. Ok, maybe it's a cliché, but really:





See what happens when shisha and sake and salsichon combine?

Thursday, August 19, 2010

Camino de Santiago: Tapia de Casariego to Covas


Today seems to have been a day for beaches. And very mean hills. So, one must ride well-equipped... chorizo... sidra... bread.



Crossing the Rio de Ribambo, leaving Asturias.



Looking towards Foz from San Bartolo.



Beachside lunch and seaside stroll.






King of the little island.



"The beach is that way!"



"Moisture is the essence of wetness, and wetness is the essence of beauty."



Viveiro.



How the devil do I get down there?



I'm sure I pulled something running after that, but if I may say so myself, made a very spectacular diving catch.



Miserable climbs around the corner from Covas, lay in wait tomorrow.



Protein injection required: carne a la plancha.