Tuesday, December 29, 2009

Old Monk Very Old Vatted Rum

Old Monk Rum
This INDIAN, 7 year old blended rum is butterscotch, vanilla, and caramel all over, rather than the darker treacle and molasses bitterness. Smooth, viscous, and rich, light fruitiness on the long, gentle finish. Hands down the best spirit India has to offer, my favorite dark rum for mixing with coke (maybe Gosling's Black Seal is close), but also very sippable, the perfect winter warmer, but with the 43% abv well hidden. Have never been certain of what the XXX is all about, but proceed with caution.

Apparently, now available in California!!! Ahnold's Stroh better watch out.

Sunday, December 27, 2009

Sabrage


Impressed my woman (easily impressed, I see.)

sabrage

Bière de Vigne

Brasserie Breughel Bière de Vigne
Brasserie Breughel Bière de Vigne (Québec) - a very strange concoction - 90% grape must, with barley malt, fermented with a beer yeast. Perhaps unsurprisingly, the few reviews on ratebeer are highly unfavourable, though I think that a bit unfair, for this is really not beer as we know it, nor is it really wine, as we know it. It's a chimaera, and a weird one at that. A vivid crimson-esque colour, lightly carbonated, quite dry, with some lambic-like qualities, fruit yes, but no sweetness, some geuze-like qualities, but no sourness or real funk. Maybe this is like lambrusco in the hands of a Donati or Corneliessen? I merely offer conjecture. Anyways, Arcimboldo on the label... nice touch. Not very Breughel though...

Thursday, December 24, 2009

Rogue Santa's Private Reserve

Rogue Santa's Private Reserve

Rogue Santa's Private Reserve - poured cloudy amber - no abv listed on the bottle, which worried me, but looking it up, only 6%. Phew. Smells minty, with orange peels and a hint of chocolate... like mulled wine crossed with a "grasshopper." Tastes of pine needles, pinecones, bark, orange peel again, mulled wine with NO sugar, cloves, cinnamon, faint mango/papaya/banana sweetness, very delicious bitters. Yum.


Oh yeah... and that Santa fellow... he's from Jalandhar...


Dewatsuru Kimoto Junmai [1 Koku - 43]

Dewatsuru
Dewatsuru Kimoto Junmai from Akita Seishu, also producers of the Kariho line. These two English websites, by the way, only list a small portion of their output, but even this particular sake is only listed on the Japanese language site.

Miyamanishiki and the local Menkoina rice, milled to 60%, SMV +3, acidity 1.6, and 14.5% abv. Light but creamy-sweet nose. Paradoxically rich and full-flavoured - a little earthy, with caramels and chocolate initially, yet clean and cleansing, with nice mineral waters and a very very late prickling of bitters and acidity. The longer you wait, the cleaner the finish gets, with an all over sparkle and even later on, some sweet musky melon. Full-flavoured, so it's hard to say if this is a product of its kimotosity or the regional style. Tasty, either way. And now, a little something, um, seasonal:



Ahhhh... Crazy Ken Band strikes again!

Tuesday, December 22, 2009

Nøgne Ø Sunturnbrew

Sunturnbrew
To kick things off, after spending a couple of hours yesterday afternoon digging out of the weekend's snowstorm, we opened the Sunturnbrew (26°P, 50 IBU, 11% abv), Nøgne Ø's tribute to the Winter Solstice. Poured flat, then put on a smallish head, before going flat again. Low carbonation, very easy drinking, no sign of heat on the palate, smooth, as J. put it, "lighter than velvet." Nice combination of chocolate/porter flavours, tasty bittersweet finish, and then a nice warming glow as it goes down. A lovely winter warmer.

Sunday, December 20, 2009

Navigating Nøgne Ø

Nogne O
Having fully enjoyed Kjetil Jikiun's Dark Horizon #2, it's clear that Grimstad, Norway's got it going on. Nøgne Ø calls itself Det Kompromissløse Bryggeri - "the uncompromising brewery," so I reckon that requires a comprehensive study of their produce. Almost comprehensive, anyways - everything I could find. Hopefully I can get to at least a couple of these per week!

From left to right:
  • Dugges Sahti (24 IBU, 11% abv) - unhopped Finnish style of beer, brewed with, amongst other things, "Sea Wormwood" and heather flowers.
  • Sunturnbrew (26°P, 50 IBU, 11% abv) - the Ø's tribute to the Winter Solstice, to be consumed tomorrow.
  • #100 (23.5°P, 80 IBU, 10% abv) - the Ø's 100th batch, in barley-wine style.
  • Imperial Stout (23°P, 75 IBU, 9% abv) - Tsarist nightcap.
  • Tiger Tripel (21°P, 35 IBU, 9% abv) - an Abbey-style Triple.
  • Special Holiday Brew (22°P, 50 IBU, 8.5% abv) - the Norwegian release of this collaborative effort between the Ø, Stone Brewing, and Jolly Pumpkin.
  • Winter Ale (19°P, 30 IBU, 8.5% abv) - a dark Christmas ale... not dark Christmas, dark ale...
  • Tyttebær (8% abv) - a joint effort with Denmark's Mikkeller, a wild yeast sour beer brewed with wild tyttebær (mountain cranberries.) Described as "feral"...
  • Toshi (19°P, 100 IBU, 8% abv ) - a double IPA brewed in collaboration with Toshi Ishii of Nagano's Yo-Ho Brewing.
  • Porter (16.5° P, 30 IBU, 7% abv) - a dark ale, recommended with cheese???
  • Brown Ale (11°P, 27 IBU, 4.5% abv) - an English 'pub-grub' style ale.
  • India Pale Ale (17.5° P, 60 IBU, 7.5% abv) - not my favorite style, but "all in the name of science..."
  • Saison (14°P, 25 IBU, 6.5% abv) - a Wallonian-styled thirst quencher.
  • Peculiar Yule (15°P, 30 IBU, 6.5% abv) - allegedly inspired by gløgg!
  • Pale Ale (14°P, 40 IBU, 6.0% abv) - they say this is their "all-rounder."

Saturday, December 19, 2009

Minenohakubai Tokubetsu Junmai [1 Koku - 44]

minenohakubai

To celebrate today's tremendous winter storm - white-out conditions if not outright blizzard - Niigata Prefecture's Minenohakubai ("White Plum Blossom") Tokubetsu Junmai, SMV +4, acidity 1.0. A suprisingly full-flavoured and rich example from this region, nutty, grainy, and broad, particularly at room temperature - though, we consumed very little of it this way... no, to the snowbank!

rittenhouse

Friday, December 18, 2009

Garyubai Junmai Ginjo [1 Koku - 45]

GaryubaiGaryubai (Dragon Shaped Plum Trees) Junmai Ginjo Namachozo Genshu, from Sanwa Shuzo in Shizuoka Prefecture. Yamada Nishiki milled to 55%, SMV +4, 16.5% abv. Brewed from an underground source of the Okitsu River, the name allegedly being inspired by a story in Luo Guanzhong's Romance of the Three Kingdoms, which, admittedly, I have not yet read.

The aroma is pronounced, musk melons, which carries over onto the palate - rich and medium bodied, sweet, clean rice flavours followed by a sharply dry, acidic and astringent finish. I'm very much preferring this at room temperature. Very flavourful, sharp and fruity. The alcohol seems rather low for a genshu sake, and the richness and dryness makes for an interesting contrast.

Shizuoka has a reputation for distinctive sake, and this certainly lives up to that. The website, while it doesn't look like much, does have a monthly newsletter going back to mid-2003 - wish I could make more sense of it.

Monday, December 14, 2009

Disgorging Movia


From last Sunday's brunch. Only after sticking it in the water did I realize I forgot to remove the wire cage. Oh well.

Sunday, December 13, 2009

Aging Sake - An Experiment

Today, I began a little experiment, to see how sake ages. The sake of choice is the Jun Tenzan Tokubetsu Junmai, produced by Saga Prefecture's Tenzan Shuzo. Unfortunately, the bottles do not have the bottling date on them, but the case appears to have been shipped recently. Will update as I can.

tenzan
Saga Saikai No. 134 milled to 60%, SMV +2, acidity 1.8, 15% abv. As a baseline note, this sake is almost paradoxically balanced, being both full and light, clean but with plenty of flavour, sweet with a sour-dry finish. In a word, satisfying.

A quick pre-experiment with an open bottle demonstrated that sake freezes readily and quickly, with a marked, deleterious change in flavour, so that result will guide the rest of the experiment. Six bottles have been placed in our refrigerator, at a constant temperature of 3°C (37.4°F). The remainder have been put into our passive cellar, in the below-ground basement of our home. The temperature there varies between 13°C (~55.4°F) in the winter and 21°C (~70°F) in the summer.

I intend to open and compare a pair of bottles according to the following schedule:

~ 15 December, 2010 (1 Year)
~ 15 December, 2011 (2 Years)
~ 15 December, 2012 (3 Years)
~ 15 December, 2014 (5 Years)
~ 15 December, 2019 (10 Years)
~ 15 December, 2029 (20 Years)

Assuming the internet is still around at each of these times, I'll post new notes.

Wednesday, December 9, 2009

Hitorimusume Sayaka Junmai [1 Koku - 46]

hitorimusume
"One and only daughter" from Ibaraki Prefecture's Yamanaka Shuzo. Very little information available about this specific bottling - it isn't listed on the brewer's website, which likely means it is an export-only product, or possibly re-labeled. The nose has roasted rice and husk notes, with peanut shell and a little hint of melon. The palate is distinctive, dry bread, with a sharpish sour-dry and bitter finish. This is substantial, and I think could more than stand up to very strongly flavoured foods, like raw liver. Based on this profile, I'm guessing that the SMV is pretty high (the front label does say "dry"), and there are a couple of tokubetsu junmai at Yamanaka that might fit the profile... except that my bottle gives the alcohol percentage as 14 - 14.9%, and there simply isn't an appropriate equivalent in their portfolio. I just don't know.

Monday, December 7, 2009

Desert Protocol III: The Pianomen Sessions

lineup
It definitely took strength and resolve to follow on from Saturday night's festivities, but we were all up to the task. We started with a coffee stout, Mikkeller's Jackie Brown (6% abv, light and bitter, just the right way to get things started.)

Up next was the 1999 Movia Puro Rose (Goriška Brda), again disgorged. Video footage to follow. I think the couple of days rest made a big difference this time, as it was notably fresher than our Thanksgiving Day bottle, good minerality, less round. Good work, but now time to start eating.

Freetata
B. clearly has a way with the kitchen. Exhibit A: Chorizo frittata. Delicious, and unexpectedly (i.e., completely unplanned), a great pairing with the Movia Puro Rose.

Now, back to work, a pair of seductive whites:
  • 2004 Domaine Marc Kreydenweiss Riesling Andlau (Andlau) - now this is an Alsatian wine I could get into - dry, sharp, almost cidery, citrus and mineral.
  • 1998 Weingut Willi Bründlmayer Grüner Veltliner Alte Reben (Kamptal) - who says G.V. only ages glacially? This was showing strong secondary characteristics, it was even more Alsatian than the Kreydenweiss. Med+ body, lots of minerality and apple/pear notes, not so much citrus or vegetable.



A house special adaptation, ramekin-baked egg, bechamel and gouda over shitaki. Followed by an assortment of grilled sausages.

  • 2002 Chateau Musar Rouge (Bekaa Valley) - Hello. How's it going? Nice to meet you. Classically funky nose, red and spicy, relatively straightforward (for now) but very approachable.
  • 1989 Mas de Daumas Gassac Vin de Pays de l'Hérault (Languedoc) - fruit, herbality and meatiness in elegant and seductive balance, like a breathless whisper.
  • 1973 Bodegas Riojanas Monte Real Gran Reserva (Rioja) - delightfully sanguine, with delicious tar, orange peel, and floral notes.



Tataki-style Ahi, to go with a bit of sake:
  • Daishichi Houreki (Fukushima) - a beautiful shizuku (free-run droplets) Junmai Daiginjo from this kimoto specialist, one of their top of the line sake. SMV +2, acidity 1.3, amino acidity 1.2, 16.5% abv. I believe this is an older vintage than the one I tried in the summer, expressed a little differently - cooling, soothing clay and petrichor nose, with melon and mineral tones to the pure and sweet springwater finish. This is mizumitai.


Next, a flight of whites with cheese (Moucou ColoRouge,an epoisses-style washed rind cow's milk cheese from Colorado, Iberico, Amentizia Carpini (Sardinia), and Bittersweet Dairy Holy Cow Vache Sante (Lousiana), a triple cream that is firm yet runny... go figure):

  • 2004 Jacques Puffeney Arbois Cuvée Sacha (Arbois) - walnut nose, plenty of lively mineral and sous voile character, but relatively tame for the style.
  • 2004 Emmanuel Houillon Arbois Pupillin Maison Pierre Overnoy (Arbois) - I was a bit surprised by this not very lively expression - it felt rather full and contented with itself, i.e., none of the more tangy edges of the Puffeney here, to say nothing of the '04 Macle Côtes du Jura. Perhaps just in a funny place?
  • 2003 Chateau Musar Blanc (Bekaa Valley) - very tight, simply not giving much right away, some nice saline, mineral and citrus, I'm sure a day or two open will put this right.
  • 1988 Fiorano (Boncompagni Ludovisi) Sémillon Vino da Tavola Bianco Botte 47 (Latium) - a dry, funky, floral and minty Sémillon, slightly hazy, and with an abundance of sediment and life to it. Fascinating stuff.


And finally, as our brunch dessert:
  • 2002 Alois Kracher Chardonnay/Welschriesling Grande Cuvée TBA #7 Nouvelle Vague (Burgenland) - wonderful balance, apricot, peach, pear, spices and more butter.



And back to the airport... very happy holidays indeed.

Sunday, December 6, 2009

Desert Protocol II: Atlas Shrugged

Plans to hit the gym Saturday morning were waylaid by bacon for breakfast, so the new plan was to do some shopping for Sunday's brunch and some cultural excursions.

tumbletree
Such as Chandler's very own pride and joy, the Tumbleweed Christmas Tree...

kokopelli
...and Arizona's finest winery, Kokopelli... home to "Wine-a-rita", a vile neon-green concoction that is more akin to a Fla·Vor·Ice freeze-pop than anything else.

A quick stop at Chandler's In-n-Out Burger yielded our first near-celebrity sighting of the weekend: the flesh and blood version of Kari, the baby-sitter from The Incredibles:



No, really. Incredible. Anyways, washed down the burgers with some Alaska Brewery Winter Ale (brewed with spruce tips) - decent ale, that, some wildberries and very mild minty wood - and then some stretching, in anticipation of a big session.

First, to pick up J., who was showing some of his work at a relative's home. This was also the site of our second near-celebrity sighting, Edna Mode!



To celebrate a successful visit, we opened a few bottles:

2002 Clouet
J. and B.'s first Clouet, the 2002 André Clouet Champagne Millésimé (Bouzy) - beautifully yeasty, great acidity and mousse, citric. A winner.

Tue-Bouef
Poor J. We did blind-taste him on the Wine-a-Rita (straight from the bottle, so that the colour - true to the photo - could not be seen.) Kindness prevailed though, and we drank the 2008 Le P'tit blanc du Tue-Bœuf (Touraine) - a blend of Menu Pineau and Sauvignon Blanc - crisp and dry, but with surprising body and nice apple and honey notes.

Movia and Moric
  • 2006 Moric Blaufränkisch (Burgenland) - elegant, opening with some time to some clay and tomatoe-y savouriness. Felt a little shut-down.
  • 2003 Movia Pinot Nero (Goriška Brda) - perhaps the revelation of the weekend - until this wine, I've been pretty unmoved by the standard red varietal wines made in this area. The nose was full of steamed root vegetables and compost, with fine fresh fruit and earth on the palate. Delicious Pinot, not at all blowsy, overdone, or high octane.


On to dinner, at one of the very few Phoenix-area BYOB's, Atlas Bistro. I'll say it now - worth going to Atlas Bistro, dodgy mathematics on corkage aside ($10 per bottle, we somehow got charged for more bottles than we brought, but weren't very sharp at the time we came to the reckoning.) My meal consisted of La Belle Duck Confit with Gingered Garnet Yam Latke, Persimmon Mostarda and Baby Frisee, Niman Pork "Two-Ways" Tenderloin & Pork Belly with Sweet Potatoes, Kraut, Horseradish Jus, and Wilcox Apples & Golden Raisins on Almond Pound Cake and Maple Cinnamon Panna Cotta. I also snuck a bite of the Foie Gras on Pumpkin Bread dessert, which was ridiculously good. I choose poorly. But drank well:

To start, N.V. Egly-Ouriet Champagne Brut 'Les Vignes de Vrigny' (Vrigny / Petite Montaigne de Reims) - 100% Pinot Meunier aged 40 months on the lees - good concentration, dry, a little soft, but no toastiness/yeastiness - a tasty but unusual Champagne.

Then, a super white flight:

Musar, Kalin, Blackwood Canyon
  • 1990 Blackwood Canyon Chardonnay (Yakima Valley, Washington) - shapeshifting nose, walnut, butterscotch popcorn, very bright and tangy.
  • 1988 Kalin Cellars Chardonnay Cuvée LV (Sonoma) - more marine and mellow than the Blackwood, some nuts and creamy/sherried notes.
  • 1990 Chateau Musar Blanc (Bekaa Valley) - the odd-man out, much smoother, tannic and savoury than the other two, apples, smoky and saline.


Continuing, a little something pink:

Heredia and Musar
  • 1995 R. López de Heredia Viña Tondonia Rosado (Rioja) - savoury, brothy, petrichor, every bit as delicious as a year ago.
  • 1995 Chateau Musar Rosé (Bekaa Valley) - as I understand it, this has never been imported into the U.S., so I'm sitting on a wee pot of Musarian gold, and was delighted to open the first bottle with these folks. The nose was like a distilled, subtle version of the classic rouge, but clean and light. Super, and an intriguing contrast to the Heredia.


Then, the reds:

Musar and Heredia
  • 1981 R. López de Heredia Viña Bosconia Gran Reserva (Rioja) - lots of funk and depth, but very approachable and delicious. A feminine wine with a wild streak.
  • 1981 R. López de Heredia Viña Tondonia Gran Reserva (Rioja) - by comparison, very tight and tannic, but started to open as the evening continued, showing real elegance.
  • 1977 Chateau Musar Rouge (Bekaa Valley) - deliciously animale to start, like a lathered thoroughbred, sweet fruit and spicy tasting, seems impossibly young. Wish we'd had more time with this, with all three really, but we drank them off.


And last, but not least:

Kracher
  • 1998 Alois Kracher Scheurebe TBA #12 Zwischen den Seen (Burgenland) - this is ambrosia - super balance, bright acidity on the attack, and then apricot jam on a raft of buttercream.


We outlasted every diner, and all the kitchen staff. A superb evening, and no doubt, Atlas will be the site of future Desert Protocols.

On to Sunday

Saturday, December 5, 2009

Desert Protocol I: Rock the Kazbar

A tremendous long-weekend of fine wine and foods with J., who had come in from Japan to present some of his paintings, and L. and B., Chandler, AZ residents. There were also cultural events, doppelgängers, and dangerous wildlife to avoid, all played to an '80s soundtrack. And so, before heading out for Friday's dinner, and warnings about scorpions, dangerous spiders, and Scottsdale Cougars, a quick sup at home. First, a peg of Wakatake Junmai Onigoroshi, followed by:

2006 Kiralyudvar Tokaji Sec (Tokaji, Hungary) - 70% Furmint, 30% Hárslevelu, 100% delicious. Beautifully aromatic nose of fine milled soaps, like Santa Maria Novella. Dry-ish, with very pleasant mineral and almost Muscat-like fruit.

kazbar
And then, it was off to the legendary Kazimierz, a Scottsdale "speakeasy" with a fantastical list. I say legendary and fantastical because it's not clear that they have much wine at all:

  • 2003 Chateau Musar Blanc - "Probably not. It's not very good, it's a weird Lebanese wine, they've only had, like, one good vintage." Um, check please!
  • "Have you any Koshu?" - "I doubt it."
  • "Chinon?" - "Ahhh, no."
  • 2005 Dingac Plavac Mali - "Not today, sir."
  • 2001 Movia Ribolla Gialla - [in an abundance of hope and optimism, the waitress returned with glasses this time.] "Afraid we're fresh out."
  • 2003 Kavaklıdere Öküzgözü Boğazkere - "Don't get much call for that 'round here, sir." Don't get much call...? Why, it's the single most popular wine in... well, Turkey.

It was rather like that. The truth may be inside, the wine list is inside, but the wine itself was largely nowhere to be found. Ultimately, they did have the 2006 Domaine de Nizas Carignane Vielle Vignes (Languedoc), which we gulped down with some overly-cumined carpaccio and a flatbread pizza. Time to move on, to Metro, for some tasty steak frites, and a 2005 Nicolas Potel Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Aux Echanges - lots of cherry and earth, very bright and fresh, almost too fresh, I'm curious if there was refermentation going on here, but it was still tasty.

And then, for a quiet nightcap, 2001 Philippe Delesvaux Sélection de Grains Nobles Coteaux du Layon (Anjou-Saumur) - floral + menthol nose, lots of honey, orange and orange peel, with focused acidity - good concentration, yet light in weight and relatively dry.

A slightly off-kilter start, but with good tunes and better company.

On to Saturday

Tuesday, December 1, 2009

Pollo Campero

camperoHad heard about this from a Guatemalan friend a few years ago - cult fried chicken. Had never actually seen one before, but can now say that I'm a fan. Don't know what's in the seasoning for the fried chicken, but it's different. A fine solution to everyman's fried chicken craving. The grilled chicken is tasty too. Not quite Nando's level, but good.

friedgrilled

To go with these, we also stopped in at a Peruvian chicken shop called El Pollo Rico - apparently famous in the D.C. area. Grilled chicken - smokier/earthier and less flavourful than Campero's, but comes with two tasty condiments - one a mustard/mayo combo, the other cilantro and lime. Good, but I still preferred the Campero version.

To wash it down, the 2007 Hiedler Grüner Veltliner Thal - crunchy, crispy GV goodness, still digging this wine.

Saturday, November 28, 2009

Tactical Nuclear Penguin

At 32% abv, the world's strongest beer?


Friday, November 27, 2009

Nanawarai Junmai [1 Koku - 47]

Nanawarai
"Seven Smiles" Junmai from Nagano Prefecture. Miyama Nishiki rice milled to 60%, SMV +1, acidity 1.4, #1001 yeast (not the local "Alps Yeast"), 15% abv. Fragrant, rich nose, roasted and caramel notes. My initial reaction, combined with the yellowish tinge and ambiguous shipping/bottling date, was that this smelled "old", but the label describes this as a rich style sake, so... onwards! Sweet, full entry, definitely rich and savoury, with good finishing acidity. There an interesting "second" finish - after a moderate length, it disappears only to reappear with actually, a very nice coconut water & fresh green bean note. I wasn't really taken with it with my first sips, but this is growing on me. The restaurant looks good too.

The Day After The Day Before [Thanksgiving]

weaselAs pre-Thanksgiving aperitif with the all-vegetarian in-laws, I cracked a Mikkeller Beer Geek Brunch Weasel (Denmark, but brewed at Nøgne Ø, Grimstad, Norway) - A super brew, made with ca phe chon (the Vietnamese version of Kopi Luwak... you know... the coffee beans that are harvested from Civet poo.) This is the closest I got to animal protein all day. Nose of nuts, molasses, dry cocoa, cinnamon, and.... coffee cherries. On the entry, this is viscous and chewy, with good texture on the back end as well, but it morphs quickly into a lighter, cleaner body. Super smooth, with dominant coffee notes, of the spicier/fruitier variety, plus unsweetened chocolate and lots of minerally goodness... I think of a fine clay, like wet porcelain. Lovely bitters and very delicious, the 10.9% alcohol hidden beautifully, and dangerously.

We also opened a Nøgne Ø "Special Holiday Ale" which I didn't take much note on, but it was very different, lighter, and just as delicious. It's a brett fermented joint brew with Stone and Jolly Pumpkin. I have another bottle (and many others from the Ø, so more on that in the near future.)

Finally, we sampled a brew my BIL made (not quite homebrew, but done at some sort of DIY facility)... imagine a beer that is primarily gueuze, but with the aroma and colour of porter... that's what he's done. Imaginative and actually pretty tasty. I suggested we try making a sake yeast beer... he's game if I join him, so we're going to try to do it over the holidays. Stay tuned, my first foray into the dark arts.

Monday, November 23, 2009

Sawanoi Junmai Ginjo [1 Koku - 48]

Sawanoi Junmai Ginjo
Sawanoi Junmai Ginjo from Ozawa Shuzo in Tokyo Prefecture. Not entirely sure of the specs on this, as this specific label doesn't appear on their website. Inviting nose - earthy yet clean - sweet mulch, petrichor with a honeydew frame. Two kinds of weight on the palate - viscous, concentrated and bright up front, lightly fermented sweet melon notes. Light, almost ethereal over the mid-palate, more faint melon. Acidity is bright up front, absent in the middle, and then back again on the finish (a clean, soda water finish), with pleasant bitters around the sides of the mouth. Just yum.

I picked this up from Sakaya on the recommendation of Rick Smith, who had visited the brewery just this past October. Well, I've liked everything I've tried from Ozawa so far, look forward to trying more of this Tokyo-based brewer!

Sunday, November 22, 2009

Another Value Purchase

Check out the 24-bottle special.


Monday, November 16, 2009

Shirataki Junmai [1 Koku - 49]

shirataki
Shirataki (White Waterfall) Junmai from Shirataki Shuzo, in Niigata Prefecture's Echigo Yuzawa. Gohyakumangoku milled to 60%, SMV +3, 14% abv. Sweet, creamy, chestnut, peach, and melon nose. Surprisingly soft and round, almost but not quite viscous, not as crisp as other Echigo sake I've had, but still very clean and tasty, with a dark, drying finish, hints of burning rubber. Nice mouthfeel, good integration, even up to room temperature, though I still prefer it chilled.

Oddly, this particular sake doesn't appear on the company's website, but a quick email garnered a quick and detailed response. Turns out, the exported product is the same as the Tanrei Uonuma Junmai, something to do with a labeling request from the importer. Uonuma is allegedly famous for its natural beauty, but more importantly for sake brewers (and sake lovers), it is famed for high quality rice. Can't complain about that!

Now, it seems that the brewery is just the other side of the train station from the ski-slopes - wish I had known that when I was out there in February of last year, we had quite of few of the resort's own-label cup sake while slopeside (though it has been suggested that it was likely the Funaguchi from Kikusui, not a Shirataki.)

yuzawaDon't know about you, but this is how we get prepared for skiing. With cup sake.

skiingMust keep up one's strength.

skiingGetting Echigo'ed. Managing the wasabi and shoyu was a little difficult, but we managed.

Friday, November 13, 2009

Shirakawago

shirakawagoTwo bottles from last Saturday - I now know that the brewery name is Miwa Shuzo.

On the right:

Shirakawago Sasanigori Junmai Ginjo Nigori: Gohyakumangoku milled to 60%, SMV ±0, acidity 1.2, amino acidity 1.8. Surprisingly dry, lightly textured, but not quite usu. Straightforward, rice, vanilla cream, spring water, nice bitter finish.

On the left:

Shirakawago Junmai Nigori: Kinuhikari milled to 70%, SMV -25, acidity 2.0, amino acidity 1.8. Thick like porridge, much more raw. Sweet, yes, but again, not intensely so. This is like rice pudding without the chunkiness, with an alcoholic edge.

Thursday, November 12, 2009

Hatsumago Junmai Kimoto [1 Koku - 50]

hatsumago
The halfway bottle on our journey through one koku worth of isshobin. Hatsumago ("The First Grandchild") Junmai Kimoto by Yamagata Prefecture's Tohoku Meijo. Miyama Nishiki milled to 60%, SMV +3, acidity 1.4, amino acidity 1.6, 15.3% abv. Nose is very light, rice husk and cotton candy. Soft and light and sweet entry, milky rice flavor, bit short, clean, good late acidity, best chilled, alcohol peeks out a bit at room temp, but in a sweet vodka-alcohol sort of way without the burn. It's amazing how consistently clean these kimoto can be, whereas yamahai is all over the shop.

Sunday, November 8, 2009

51 Views from Sake Mountain

lineup
Attended Wine of Japan's trade tasting in Manhattan on Saturday. Not every sake in the portfolio was represented (I was hoping to try Shikaiou from Aichi, Shichifukujin from Iwate, Rikishi from Saitama, Biwa no Choju from Shiga, and Fushimi's Tomio, but I didn't see these.) Got there a bit late, so I held off on revisiting brews in the portfolio that I've had recently (Koshi no Tousetsuka, Kaiun, and Niwa no Uguisu, amongst others.)

Akita Homare (Akita Prefecture) - fed by the waters of Chōkaisan, second highest peak in the Tohoku district, and at approximately 40° latitude, they claim to have weather similar to that of New York...hmm... Mt. Marcy sake, anyone?
  • Pride of Akita Tokubetsu Junmai: Miyama Nishiki milled to 53%, Akita Hana yeast, SMV +1.5. Deep and mellow, strong melon flavour, with a sharpish dry finish.
  • Pride of Akita Junmai Daiginjo: Akita Sake Komachi milled to 41%, Komachi yeast, SMV +0.5. Surprisingly full-flavoured and rich for a daiginjo, with a surprisingly dry finish for such a low nihonshu-do. A conundrum, and not the last of the day.


Banshu Ikkon (Hyogo Prefecture)
  • Kaede no Shizuku (Maple Leaf Rain Drop) Junmai Ginjo: Hyogo Yumenishiki milled to 60%, SMV +3. Intriguing nose of campfire and bacon, complete contrast to the mild and smooth taste. Allegedly can take further bottle maturing. I just wanted some bacon.


Bunraku (Saitama Prefecture) - It seems these guys only go in for these unusual bottles - you've seen my notes for their Yamahai in the blue oversized cologne bottle already, so I didn't try that one again. There was also a kinmaishu that I didn't feel like trying - the style with the gold flakes in it.
  • Dress Bottle Junmai Ginjo: Omachi milled to 55%, SMV +3. Not a yamahai sake. Dry, rich and soft, but I found the nose simply too alcoholic to enjoy much.


Kazuma Shuzo (Ishikawa Prefecture) - a Noto-Toji production.
  • Chikuha (Bamboo Blade) Junmai: Gohyakumangoku milled to 55%, SMV ±0 (this is going to drag down my average.) Peanutty, earthy slightly funky nose. Sweet/sour fruit, full, and surprisingly dry, which must speak to the acidity keeping this in balance. Recommended with "broiled red meat fish."


Furuta Shuzo (Gifu Prefecture) - a rarity in the sake world, in that the owner, and if I understood correctly, chief brewer is a woman. She was on hand, but I didn't have much success in communicating with her.
  • Setchukanbai Junmai Ginjo: some local varietal, SMV +6. Sweetish nose, clean entry, savoury mid-palate and a good dose of rice flavour.
  • Da Junmai Ginjyo [sic]: Gohyakumangoku milled to 50%, SMV +6. Notably lighter and fresher than the Setchukanbai.
She also had brought a single bottle of an unlisted unnamed product which she referred to as "geisha-style." A sweeter, rounder sake, designed, as her translator explained, for the American palate. An experimental product at this point. It was definitely sweeter and softer than I like - not nigori-sweet, and not necessarily unbalanced, but not so much to my preference.



Sanwa Shuzo (Shizuoka Prefecture). Brewed from an underground source of the Okitsu River (apparently, the only location in Eastern Japan where one can fish for Ayu.)
  • Garyubai (Dragon Shaped Plum Trees) Namachozo Genshu Junmai Ginjo: Hyogo Yamada Nishiki milled to 55%, SMV +4. Very flavourful, sharp and fruity.
  • Garyubai Junmai Daiginjo: Yamada Nishiki milled to 40%, SMV +2. Smooth, soft, caressing, rather than mizumitai, there was a very pleasant taste of coconut water.


Ginrei Gassan (Yamagata Prefecture)
  • Gassan no Yuki Junmai Ginjo: Dewa San San milled to 50%, SMV +1. I don't know what it is about Yamagata sake, maybe it's the water, but I love this clean, soft, and yes, to my palate lightly sweet style of sake.


Hioki Zakura (Tottori Prefecture) - tsk, tsk, the pourer didn't seem to know that there were sand dunes in Tottori, much less about Abe Kōbō's novel, Woman in the Dunes.
  • Yama Yosoofu (Traditional Concept) Tokubetsu Junmai Hiyaoroshi: Yamada Nishiki and Gyokuei milled to 55%, SMV +7.5. Dry, rich, nicely balanced, with a clean finish.
  • Densho Gouriki (Autumnal Tints) Junmai Ginjo: Kyoryoku milled to 55%, SMV +7. Prominent acidity, with a spicy sweetness. Lots going on here.
  • Hiokizakura (Cherry Blossoms of Hioki) Junmai Muroka: Gyokuei milled to 60%, SMV +5.5. Yellow, mellow.


Tenzan (Saga Prefecture). Love me some Kyushu sake!
  • Jizake Junmai Genshu: Saga Saikai No. 134 milled to 60%, SMV +2. Sweet, balanced, filling, with a sour-dry finish. Very satisfying, and hard to make out the 18% abv.
  • Jun Tokubetsu Junmai: According to the brewer, this is the same sake as the Jizake, just not Genshu. And that made for an interesting comparison... rather than smoothen out and enhance, like, say, Scotch, this was pretty much just a lighter and cleaner version. Still very tasty.
  • Sudachi: a new product, made in a style similar to the better ume-infused sake, this uses the sudachi citrus, which for me tasted all the world like the small Indian sweet limes. This with a drop of fresh squeezed ginger would be amazing.


Kanazawa Nakamura (Ishikawa Prefecture)
  • Kaga Setsubai (Plum Tree in the Snow of Kaga) Junmai Ginjo: Gohyakumangoku milled to 60% for the Shubo and Koji, Kakemai milled to 65% for the moromi. SMV +2.5, acidity and amino acidity 1.3, yeast #9. Rich and ricey aroma, with a very subtle capsicum note. Soft, with more peppery herbality. Doesn't need, but wants food.
  • Nichiei (Glory of the Sun Junmai: Gohyakumangoku milled to 60%/65% as above, SMV +3.5, acidity and amino acidity 1.4, yeast #7. Shellac nose, also vegetal and peppery. They also sell a cup version of this for serving frozen, slushy style, like Tama no Hikari's Reishu.
  • Nichiei Junmai Daiginjo: Yamada Nishiki milled to 50%, SMV ±0, acidity 1.5, amino acidity 1.4, yeast #14. Softer, sweeter, and still with the pepper.
  • Renaissance Junmai: Gohyakumangoku milled to 65%/70% as above. SMV -8, acidity 1.7, amino acidity 1.9. The pourer described the nose on this as "tarty" - she was dead right. Tarty, Smarties, sweet and sours. No thanks.


Kan Nihonkai (Shimane Prefecture)
  • Ryoshizake Junmai Ginjo: Yamada Nishiki and Gohyakumangoku milled to 50%, SMV +4. Dry, delicate, with mild nose - recommended to serve warm or room temperature (and also chilled). Does that just about cover things?
  • Mizusumi no Sato Junmai Daiginjo: Yamada Nishiki milled to 40%, SMV +3. More fruitiness than the Ryoshizake, with some sour nutty aromas. This didn't agree with me. Or I with it. Or something.
  • Chokarakuchi Junmai Genshu: Gohyakumangoku milled to 65%, SMV +15!!!: Soy, caramel, and broth nose, surprisingly mellow and sweet, almost a bit pasty on the palate. Comes in a red bottle, which suggests it might be an akazake, or is simply a warning.





Ozawa Shuzo (Tokyo Prefecture) - I really like this company's SMV +10 Sawanoi Daikarakuchi, so the other bottling they had on offer, well, not quite sure what to expect.
  • Sawanoi Genroku (Genroku Era (Edo)) Junmai: Akihikari milled to 90%, SMV -8. So, this sake is produced in a manner and style from a period in the late 17th century. In addition to the more coarse milling, the mash is fermented in casks made of sugi (cryptomeria). Rich and full-bodied, and yes, quite sweet, but with decent balance. Clearly a different style of sake.


Asabiraki (Iwate Prefecture)
  • Nanbu Touji Tokubetsu Junmai Kimoto: Hyogo Tamasakae (organic) milled to 60%, SMV +2, acidity and amino acidity 1.5. Sweet nose, very clean.
  • Zen Tokubetsu Junmai: Gin Otome Iwate milled to 60%, SMV +2, acidity 1.5, amino acidity 1.4. Rich, balanced, and tasty. This is even available in the PA State Stores.


Echigo Shuzo (Niigata Prefecture)
  • Koshi no Sasameyuki (Little Snow Flurries of Koshi) Junmai: Gohyakumangoku and Koshibuki milled to 50%, SMV +5, acidity 1.4. I've had a few of this company's products, I love the light, crisp, dry and refreshing style, makes me think of snow-covered mountains.


Maihime (Nagano Prefecture)
  • Maihime (Dancing Princess) Junmai Ginjo: Miyama Nishiki milled to 50%, SMV +3. Though this is described as being drier and lighter, I had the opposite reaction, found it, relatively, rich and sweet, but mellow, with tasty chocolate and savoury tones.
  • Maihime Tokubetsu Junmai: Miyama Nishiki milled to 55%, SMV +6. Full yet clean, with a dry and almost bright finish.


Hinomaru Jozo (Akita Prefecture)
  • Mansaku no Hana (Flowering Japanese Witch-Hazel) Yamahai Junmai Daiginjo: Yamada Nishiki milled to 45%, SMV +2. Aged for two years at 5°C. Surprisingly clean, light and very mellow, tasty.
  • Beni Mansaku (Red Witch-Hazel) Junmai Ginjo: Ginnosei milled to 45%, SMV +1.5, using a flower yeast, and a very low 13.8% abv. Floral nose, very light and soft, shy stuff.
  • Hyakunenmae (100 Years Ago) Usu-nigori Junmai: Kiyonishiki milled to 60%, SMV -24. Well, it's sweet, with definite pastry/bakery aromas and textures. Retains a softness and lightness though, not at all cloying.


Yamawashuzoten (Miyagi Prefecture)
  • Meisousui (Meditation) Junmai Ginjo: Yamada Nishiki (32%) and Kuranohana (68%) milled to 55%, SMV +3, acidity 1.7, amino acidity 1.8, 14.8% abv. This was definitely a sake I've been wanting to try, and it didn't disappoint - soft and smooth, but balanced and refreshing. Can we forgive the Engrish on the label? Original punctuation and capitalization has been preserved for full effect:

    Time went by.
    It's time to meditate,
    Listen to the voice of universe,
    with clear heart
    ."


Toshimori (Okayama Prefecture)
  • Sake Hitosuji (The Only Sake) Akaiwaomachi Junmai Ginjo: Akaiwa Omachi milled to 55%, SMV +2. Soft but well-balanced, nice sweet-sour, mellow and tasty.
  • Sake Hitosuji Akaiwaomachi Junmai Daiginjo: Akaiwa Omachi milled to 38%, SMV +4. Another full-bodied daiginjo, a bit of acetone on the nose, light but sweet rice flavour with drying finish.


Sempuku Kura (Hiroshima Prefecture)
  • Sempuku Kura (Brewery of a Thousand Fortunes) Junmai Daiginjo: Senbon Nishiki milled to 50%, SMV +4. Smooth, soft, full, and a great bitter finish. The sake of the event that I'd most like to revisit.


Hamakawa Shonten (Kochi Prefecture). I really enjoyed this brewery's Shintaro Junmai Karakuchi, and in the run up to this tasting, had heard that they would be showing some "new" products.
  • Shintaro Sparkling Sake: Matsuyama Mitsui milled to 55%, SMV +3. Already this is curious! This is not bottle fermented, but instead carbonated. Very dry and crisp, tight, with a mild sour bite on the finish. I was skeptical, but this was not bad. Very, very unusual product.
  • Shintaro Yuzu: This is Hamakawa's junmai, flavoured with yuzu citron and honey, and again, I was surprised by the deliciousness, reminded me of the lemon barley squash drinks my grandfather would mix up for me to join him (and his Chivas) after a long day in the clinics. I'm wondering why sake and citrus keeps reminding me of Indian drinks.


Otani Shuzo (Tottori Prefecture) - brewed from the waters of Daisen (大山 - big mountain) - from certain directions, this mountain bears a striking resemblance to Mt. Fuji, with high conic symmetry. Other directions? Not so much.
  • Takaisami (Hawk's Bravery) Nakadare Junmai Ginjo: Yamada Nishiki and Tamasakae milled to 50%, SMV +5. Like a full-flavoured springwater, very essential.
  • Takaisami Tokubetsu Junmai: Yamada Nishiki and Tamasakae milled to 50%, SMV +4. More full-bodied, full rice flavour, but with a very clean aroma.


Tenryo (Gifu Prefecture)
  • Hidahomare (Pride of Hida) Junmai Ginjo: Hidahomare milled to 50%, SMV +3. Rich nose, fruity but cleansing palate.
  • Koshu Junmai Daiginjo: Hidahomare milled to 50%, SMV +4, aged 3 years in the bottle at 6°C. Rich, sweet and sourness, candy apples, very satisfying.


Aihara Shuzo (Hiroshima Prefecture) - I wanted to like the Tokubetsu Junmai, but I just wasn't bowled over - had trouble with the alcohol peeking out on that one. So, since they focus more on the Daiginjo end, I was curious to try some of their other offerings.
  • Ugo no Tsuki (Moon After The Rain) Junmai Ginjo: Yamada Nishiki milled to 50%, SMV +4. An unusual tangerine nose, but otherwise this didn't pluck my strings.
  • Ugo no Tsuki Junmai Daiginjo: Bizenomachi milled to 40%, SMV +3. Vibrant, full nose. Smooth and mild, well balanced, with a slight sharpness on the finish. Not as earthy as I'd expected, but then again, I don't often come across a daiginjo with omachi. Not sure about the specific characteristics of this strain of Omachi either.


Konishi (Hyogo Prefecture). Seems they've got several brands under one umbrella, a few I've tried - Sesshu Otokoyama, Itami Onigoroshi, and also a very inexpensive and decent Shirayuki Shiboritate, available in the U.S. But it was the regular bottle Shirayuki that gave me the fear. So, I looked for some explanations from the marketing director who was on hand. Turns out that the sake inside the bottle I had was indeed made in Australia, using an Australian-grown sake rice. But then the sake itself is shipped to Japan for bottling before export to the U.S. And still the price I paid was only $13 (A steal... i.e., I wuz robbed).

The marketing director explained that they will start (or have started) to bottle in Australia itself for direct export, but also noted there is a separate product, with the exact same label, that is brewed and bottled in Japan... I didn't get around to trying it, but apparently, it is very, very different, and better (hardly a difficult accomplishment.)
  • Shirayuki Nama Junmai: Nihonbare milled to 70%, SMV +3. This is not nama-nama, but nama chozo, i.e., aged unpasteurised, but pasteurised before release. For me, this was certainly light and smooth, but not very fresh tasting. Again, the director chimed in and said this is best within a couple of months of release (which was more than a couple of months ago).
  • Shirayuki Junmai Ginjo: Yamada Nishiki milled to 55%, SMV +2. On the sweet side, but smooth and balanced. Is it redemption for the Australian stuff? I'll reserve judgment.


Kitaya (Fukuoka Prefecture)
  • Kitaya (Family with a lot of Pleasure) Junmai: Yume-Ikkon milled to 60%, SMV +1.5. Very full and savoury.
  • Kansansui (Cold Mountain Water) Junmai Daiginjo: 60/40% Yamada Nishiki and Yume-Ikkon milled to 40%, SMV +2.5. Elegant and light.
  • Kansansui Junmai Daiginjo Kasumizake: An usu-nigori version of the same. Only barely sweeter, more texture obviously, but this didn't have the savoury elements that make's the Mukune version of this style so satisfying. I'm curious that the listed SMV is the same, I'd think it would be less with the rice solids still in.



Shirakawago (Gifu Prefecture) - everything was shutting down by the time I got to this table, but I was relating to the owner how a friend had recently brought me back a bottle of doburoku from the Shirakawago doburoku festival (a homebrew style which is illegal to, well, homebrew, except for residents of Shirakawago. Now, one of his marketing people hadn't even been to the annual festival, so after some tut-tutting from both of us, I received a couple of quick pours and a pair of bottles to take home, will report in more detail later. As far as I can tell, Shirakawago makes only nigori-style sake.
  • Sasanigori Junmai Ginjo: Gohyakumangoku milled to 60%, SMV ±0 (! - not the +1 I've read of elsewhere, but still), acidity 1.2. Pretty dry for the style, actually fairly sharp.
  • Nigori Junmai: Gohyakumangoku milled to 70%, SMV -25, acidity 2.0. This was described as being as similar to doburoku style. It pours out almost like porridge, without the lumps. Creamy and thick, but you know, it wasn't that sweet either. Not something for daily consumption (well, maybe for breakfast..."Doburoku gives you strength!"), but pretty tasty.


And that's a day's work. We tried to get into Bar Hagi for dinner afterwards, but the wait, even at 6PM, was already over an hour, so we headed down to the East Village for some sushi and sashimi, with, of course, some sake: Sharaku Junmai Daiginjo from Fukushima Prefecture's Miyaizumi Meijyo - Miyama Nishiki rice, SMV +3, solid and stout, full rice flavour, not in the lean, crisp style. Have to admit, was longing for a kebab after all that.

Thursday, November 5, 2009

Harushika Chō Karakuchi Junmai [1 Koku - 51]

harushika
Harushika Chō Karakuchi Junmai, from Nara. A venerable producer whose name was inspired by the Kasuga-taisha (shrine) (and it is said that one of the family's ancestors was head priest there in the distant past). I love all the lanterns hanging at this shrine, here's a couple of pictures I took in 2006 (R.'s first trip to Japan):

kasuga-taishaThe lanterns of Kasuga-taisha.



deerMaking the acquaintance of one of Nara's sacred deer. After depleting our supply of biscuits, this one attempted to make a meal out of the tires of our rented bicycles.

On to the sake. Vital statistics: SMV +12, acidity 1.6, amino acidity 1.5, and 15.5% abv. Rich, ricey aromas, with a faintly forest-y sourness, like humus and mulch. Like walking through the Nara Kōen after a rainy night. Light to medium-bodied initially, soft velvety entry that transforms into a lightly raspy mid-palate, followed by a pleasingly bitter finish - a salty-sour aftertaste just lingers. A velvet-gloved iron hand, with no hints of malice.

John Gauntner says that one of the most memorable Western food pairings he's ever had is this sake with a bacon and cream sauce over pasta. Must try, and, um, yay, bacon! But, for now, we'll have to make do with 10 pounds of gingko nuts we picked last weekend.

Monday, November 2, 2009

Tsukasabotan Junmai [1 Koku - 52]

King of Peony
Tsukasabotan Junmai from Tosa in Kochi Prefecture, and a participant in the "space yeast" experiment. This, however, is not that. It is instead a very refreshingly dry brew, SMV +7, acidity 1.5, and 15.5% abv. Lightly floral aroma, with hints of mint and clover. Plenty of power, solid structure, rich rice flavour, sweet core, but also clean, spring-water-like, obviously dry (though not so much crispness), with a lightly savoury finish. Much deliciousness.

It has been noted variously, including by John Gauntner, that Shiba Ryōtarō (I have never read this guy - historical fiction...well...) makes reference to Tsukasabotan in the novel Ryōma ga Yuku (竜馬がゆく: “Ryōma moves ahead”): "In Sakawa of the Tosa region, the sake that is the top of botans [peony] is being brewed. The people of Tosa love this kind of dry sake, and after drinking a bottle and a half [isshobin, so 2.7 litres], a faint sweetness eventually comes out in the center of the flavor, and you can just keep drinking."

Well, I can tell you that there is more than faint sweetness well before 1.5 isshobin, and this was a very welcome change from the Kariho Yamahai - I like that style, but really only in smaller doses. THIS, I could drink. And I will.

Sunday, November 1, 2009

Super Brew from Norway

Dark HorizonA very belated note, this was actually the kick-off to the Musarathon last weekend. Nøgne Ø (Det Kompromissløse Bryggeri) Dark Horizon Second Edition. The kjellermaster, Kjetil Jikiun, is a fellow Daimon Shuzo sake intern, and although his session was the one before mine, I saw some of these bottles in Japan, tantalizingly empty. Nøgne Ø is an Ibsen reference - Naked Island - referring to barren, rocky outcroppings along the Norwegian coast, and the brewery ("The Uncompromising Brewery") is actually located in Grimstad, where Ibsen was born. As surely as I have never before seen a beer weigh in at 17.5% abv, I've also never seen a beer with a recommended pouring date (in this case, Fall of 2009 to 2020).

Anyhow... on to the brew.. the nose on this black beer is sweet, bitter chocolate, lots of bakery spices, especially cinnamon. On the palate, more bitter chocolate, coffee, brandy tones (vanilla and butter), licourice, bitter cherries, molasses and caramel. Not strongly bitter, super smooth, almost creamy. Alcohol was very well integrated I though, particularly with a little chill on it. As it got to room temperature though you could see it peeking out. You really noticed it when you stood up! A lot of the early Ratebeer reviews complain of the alcohol being overpowering, I don't agree, but perhaps that's coming from the wine/sake context - I thought it superbly integrated. I ordered a half-dozen right after I got back from Japan, so I will certainly check in on this every couple of years! And, I won't shy away from picking up subsequent releases.

Some interesting notes about this concoction from the brewery:

- This brew is described as ale/wine/coffee drink, as it is made with wine yeast and homemade coffee extract (sort of like "decoction" coffee)
- It is recommended that you share this with "those you deem worthy"
- A "global" brew with inspiration from the US Midwest (microbrew), malt from England, bottles from Germany, name from Japan, sugars from Mauritius, hops from the Pacific rim, Yeast from Canada, coffee from Colombia, brewed in Grimstad, Norway.

Tuesday, October 27, 2009

Chateau Musar: Serge Hochar's 50th Anniversary Dinner

Serge Hochar was in NYC last week, and on Sunday evening came to Hearth Restaurant to celebrate his 50th year of winemaking at Chateau Musar. Interesting and intimate group of 30-odd diners, hosted by Paul Grieco, with Broadbent and crew in attendance. A stupendous evening, definitely a highlight in my wine "career".

All bottles were opened only at 5PM (Reception started at 6, we sat for dinner around 7). All bottles were were double decanted, but we were specifically advised that none of the bottles were washed - in the end, the 1999 was the only one with noticeable sediment (something I've noticed with several bottles of this vintage, and rarely with others.)

Reception started with the three Cuvée wines. Main item of note here is that the Cuvée Blanc, which is normally 100% Obaideh, is this year a blend of vermentino, viognier, and chardonnay! It was very fresh and lean, I was just a bit taken aback by the change.

Serge was in fine philosopher form. Here are some little witticisms: "Don't ask me about the wine, I don't know anything"; "This wine is the best medicine you could invent"; "I have no clue" [why the wine gets fresher as it gets older]; "This is not a wine tasting, it is a dinner tasting. Let's only talk about how the food is enhanced by the wine"; You get the idea.

rougeThe Red Wines.

First Course - Duck Liver Paté with Brioche Toast, Figs and Marcona Almonds

1999 Chateau Musar Rouge - very very tight, not very giving. Unsurprisingly, given the recent opening. A fair amount of sediment, almost cloudy.

1995 Chateau Musar Rouge - meaty and full, but not showing it's best, certainly not in this flight. I'm usually very keen on this vintage, the bottle I had just a few weeks was far tastier.

1981 Chateau Musar Rouge - WOTF. Beautifully balanced, sanguine, tomato aspic. Delicious! On the evening, Serge claimed that this is the youngest Rouge ready to drink. But haven't I heard similar words by Serge about other vintages? But then again, when asked about this and other mysteries, Serge said: "I have no clue." Awesome.


Second Course - Tortellini with Mushroom Consommé, Savoy Cabbage
Second Course - Tortellini with Mushroom Consommé, Savoy Cabbage

1972 Chateau Musar Rouge - very quiet, like it was taking a nap. There was a suggestion that it was shutting down - so, again, Serge, when pressed on why the wines seem to get younger? "This is a silly question," followed by "I have no clue."

1966 Chateau Musar Rouge - Red WOTN, pretty much a consensus opinion. Lithe and expansive, very satisfying.


Third Course - Roasted Chatham Cod with Black Cabbage, Chickpeas and Smoked Garlic

1999 Chateau Musar Blanc - smoky and tangy.

1998 Chateau Musar Blanc - lovely, lovely wine. Lots of sweet pastry notes. WOTF.

1995 Chateau Musar Blanc - lighter, cleaner style, with a pronounced herbal finish. Very good, but I think the '98 superior right on the night. Of course, it's probably 30 years too young or something.

blancs
The White Wines.

Fourth Course - Roasted Guinea Hen with Pancetta and Market Vegetables

1969 Chateau Musar Blanc - fresh, bright, endless, youthful, lots of walnut and caramel notes. Blanc WOTN.

1964 Chateau Musar Blanc - relatively quiet - maybe it's shutting down!

1959 Chateau Musar Blanc - a melange of high-toned apricot jam, Stilton and mushroom, both on the nose and the palate. It was SO aggressive, bright, and fresh, one would be forgiven for thinking this is unfinished, fresh out of the barrel. It's going backwards. In another 10 years, there will probably be whole grapes inside. Only 200 bottles left at the property.

Cheese - Brebis Pyrénées (sheep), Five Spoke Creamery Tumbleweed (cow), Boeren Kaas (cow), Vella Dry Jack (cow)

2000 Chateau Musar Blanc - Blanc and cheese. It's the new comfort food.

Serge
With the great man himself. A tremendous evening!