Ginrei Gassan Yuki yu Jukusei Junmai Ginjo

By Ginrei Gassan Shuzo, from Yamagata Prefecture - not to be confused with the Gassan brand of sake made by Yoshida Shuzo in Shimane. Not a lot to go on here... I understand that Ginrei Gassan brews with the Dewasansan rice varietal, don't know if that's the case here. The milling here is down to 58%, 15% abv. Sweet, grassy nose, dry, nice presence but still light and crisp, good acidity, as you might expect from Yamagata. <img alt="gassan" border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_9T848u4wxrU/SnHGVIi0QpI/AAAAAAAAAU4/12mdgGUFa8A/s400/IMGP2103.JPG" width="400"><br />By Ginrei Gassan Shuzo, from Yamagata Prefecture - not to be confused with the Gassan brand of sake made by Yoshida Shuzo in Shimane. Not a lot to go on here... I understand that Ginrei Gassan brews with the Dewasansan rice varietal, don't know if that's the case here. The milling here is down to 58%, 15% abv. Sweet, grassy nose, dry, nice presence but still light and crisp, good acidity, as you might expect from Yamagata.

Doburoku!

Shirakawagou, a junmai doburoku nigorizake from Mitsuwa Shuzo in Gifu Prefecture. Gifu is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and Shirakawa is home to an annual doburoku festival, where people bring their own "homebrew", i.e, doburoku. As I understand it, doburoku is technically illegal - the government strictly controls who can and can't make sake, but I guess this is some sort of exception. It's a simple process, just add koji mold to steamed rice and water and let it ferment, rather than the normal multiple-parallel fermentation.

Onwards! Semaibuai 70%, SMV -13, acidity 1.5, amino acidity 1.8, 15% abv. Creamy, a little gritty yes, sweet yes, but surprisingly not that sweet, really speaks to the higher acidity here. Nice bitter elements too. Nigori isn't my favorite by any stretch, and it's not something I drink with any regularity (in fact, this bottle was a gift), but I am very pleasantly surprised by this.

This particular bottling isn't sold in the U.S., but a junmai ginjo (not a doburoku) appears to be widely available, and has very interesting numbers - SMV +1! I've never seen a nigori with a positive nihonshudo. Would definitely be interested to try this. <img alt="nigori2" border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_9T848u4wxrU/SmpgiSdOWQI/AAAAAAAAAUo/6Obeeish_t8/s400/IMGP1063.JPG" width="400"><br />Shirakawagou, a junmai <i>doburoku nigorizake</i> from Mitsuwa Shuzo in Gifu Prefecture. Gifu is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and Shirakawa is home to an annual <i>doburoku</i> festival, where people bring their own "homebrew", i.e, <i>doburoku</i>. As I understand it, <i>doburoku</i> is technically illegal - the government strictly controls who can and can't make sake, but I guess this is some sort of exception. It's a simple process, just add koji mold to steamed rice and water and let it ferment, rather than the normal multiple-parallel fermentation.<br /><br />Onwards! Semaibuai 70%, SMV -13, acidity 1.5, amino acidity 1.8, 15% abv. Creamy, a little gritty yes, sweet yes, but surprisingly not that sweet, really speaks to the higher acidity here. Nice bitter elements too. Nigori isn't my favorite by any stretch, and it's not something I drink with any regularity (in fact, this bottle was a gift), but I am <i>very</i> pleasantly surprised by this.<br /><br />This particular bottling isn't sold in the U.S., but a junmai ginjo (<i>not</i> a <i>doburoku</i>) appears to be widely available, and has very interesting numbers - SMV +1! I've never seen a nigori with a positive nihonshudo. Would definitely be interested to try this.

Taisetsu Junmai Ginjo [1 Koku - 67]

"The Garden of the Divine" from Hokkaido's Takasago Shuzo. This seasonal sake is cold-aged in a Yukihimuro, a sort of igloo. Ginfu rice milled to 45%, SMV +3, acidity 1.3, amino acid level 1.1, and 15.5% abv. Fragrant nose of sweet yubari melon with a minty/savoury tone. Very flavourful, I'd call this medium bodied and off-dry. Sweet and rich on the palate, more melon, pleasant minerality, with a lightly astringent licourice finish, nice acidic bite too.

<img alt="taisetsu" border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_9T848u4wxrU/SmoVcw2CdTI/AAAAAAAAAUI/zxA05c3Ku1U/s400/IMGP2091.JPG" width="400"><br /><br />"The Garden of the Divine" from Hokkaido's Takasago Shuzo. This seasonal sake is cold-aged in a <i>Yukihimuro</i>, a sort of igloo. <i>Ginfu</i> rice milled to 45%, SMV +3, acidity 1.3, amino acid level 1.1, and 15.5% abv. Fragrant nose of sweet yubari melon with a minty/savoury tone. Very flavourful, I'd call this medium bodied and off-dry. Sweet and rich on the palate, more melon, pleasant minerality, with a lightly astringent licourice finish, nice acidic bite too. <br /><br /><img alt="ice dome" border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_9T848u4wxrU/SmoVdS7ZzwI/AAAAAAAAAUQ/SRFU5D_07Pw/s400/IMGP2093.JPG" width="400">

Kikusui "Chrysanthemum Water" Junmai Ginjo [1 Koku - 68]

From Kikusui Shuzo in Niigata Prefecture. Gohyakumangoku rice milled to 55%, SMV +1, acidity 1.7, and 15% abv. Medium full, floral nose. Not white flowers, more of the gardenia/marigold variety. Rich and round, lightly sweet on entry, but quite clean and quickly moves to lightness. Very nice acidity on the back end, disguising the sweetness, with almost peppery bitter chocolate notes on the finish. <img alt="kikusui" border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_9T848u4wxrU/SmObz8V_IEI/AAAAAAAAATo/j-4P3ZDeKXY/s400/IMGP2079.JPG" width="400"><br />From Kikusui Shuzo in Niigata Prefecture. Gohyakumangoku rice milled to 55%, SMV +1, acidity 1.7, and 15% abv. Medium full, floral nose. Not white flowers, more of the gardenia/marigold variety. Rich and round, lightly sweet on entry, but quite clean and quickly moves to lightness. Very nice acidity on the back end, disguising the sweetness, with almost peppery bitter chocolate notes on the finish.

futsukayoi... an Iberico-Argentine wine lunch

It's a mini-tradition for A., W., and myself to hit up Smith & Wollensky's "National Wine Week" lunches - never spectacular wines, but the pours are never modest, and we always have a good time. So now The Capital Grille is getting in on the act, for the next 6 weeks. Until August 2, it's 12 Spanish and Argentine wines for $10 with a weekday lunch, and then from August 3 - 23, 11 South African and Napa wines. Plus, with 2 out of 3 Mrs. being vegetarian, there's no excuse for missing a meatfest. If only W. hadn't moved to Seattle... will be good to have him back.

N.V. Marques de Gelida Cava - it's a decent, inexpensive cava. Nice acidity, light, juicy but dry. No toast.

2008 Shaya Verdejo - very sauvignon blanc like, without the cat piss, but the grassy notes on the nose started to put me off. The label didn't say "Rueda Verdejo", so there may well be some S.B. in it. But then again, Verdejo can be s.b.-ish all on it's own too, no?

2008 Tilia Torrontes - I initially liked this quite a bit, petrichor on the nose, a surprising amount of clay and umami on the palate. However, there was a sort milled spice (like a combo of cumin and coriander) which I enjoyed at first but that got too strong as the wine warmed up.

2007 Catena Chardonnay - oaked but not overtly so, but really just plain boring. I kept tasting this to see if there was something there, but there wasn't.

2007 Atteca Old Vine Garnacha - a little bit smokey/earthy/savoury nose, and a very nice amount of pop to it, brightness, fruit, medium bodied. Not terribly complex but really a pretty pleasant wine from Catalayud.

2006 Juan Gil Monastrell - very modern international style wine, creamy, jammy. Nothing to be excited about, but for a large party, the majority of folks would enjoy this.

2007 Catena Malbec - surprisingly similar to the previous wine. That's not good. Buy whichever one is cheaper.

At this point, our waiter, L., informed us that we would not get new wines unless we finished what was on the table. Dangerous instructions. A. was polishing stuff off at alarming rate, while my more measured pace (and clear offense to the white wines in front of me) resulted in "wuss" taunts. From the waiter. Mark yourselves, gents, mark yourselves.

2005 Allende Rioja - much lighter and approachable than the 2004, which was a tannic monster a while back. I've been meaning to try that again actually, this will probably give me the push. About $18 or so?

L's quips kept rolling, you had to be there, but it was flaming and funny. Turns out L. wasn't much of wine drinker... no, it's vodka and Jaegermeister for him. We'd been talking about bitters, so L. came round with shots of the huntsman for us, gratis. As if we needed more. Onward!

L. must have had a brain cramp, because now... now is when he rolled out the 2008 Vega Sindoa Rosé. Not sure my palate was up for this at this point, but it was bright, fresh, juicy, and reasonably dry.

2007 Volver Tempranillo - Frères, venez vite, je buvant bois. "Brothers, come quickly, I'm drinking lumber." Fruity, thick, and oh so much oak.

But what's this? A., propping up his head? Who's the wuss now? Meanwhile, V., having prepared to marathon and not sprint, powers ahead. Not just powers ahead, is pulling energy from his faltering opponent and puts in a solid push.

2006 Catena Cabernet Sauvignon - This didn't strike me one way or the other.

2006 Alma Negra - a Bonarda Malbec blend. Biggish... modern style. Don't remember much else.

A. was reeling... seeing this, I knew it was time for the knockout. I asked for the drinks menu and selected his ultimate nemesis... grappa... he lurched... left... right... hanging onto earth like grim death... so we pushed ourselves outside, and waited to be fetched.

Good times! We're heading back on August 7th, reservations made. <img alt="capital" border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_9T848u4wxrU/SmHL16pXG7I/AAAAAAAAATg/RiRtUqGiDUY/s400/IMG00047.jpg" width="400"><br />It's a mini-tradition for A., W., and myself to hit up Smith & Wollensky's "National Wine Week" lunches - never spectacular wines, but the pours are never modest, and we always have a good time. So now The Capital Grille is getting in on the act, for the next 6 weeks. Until August 2, it's 12 Spanish and Argentine wines for $10 with a weekday lunch, and then from August 3 - 23, 11 South African and Napa wines. Plus, with 2 out of 3 Mrs. being vegetarian, there's no excuse for missing a meatfest<span class="fullpost">. If only W. hadn't moved to Seattle... will be good to have him back.<br /><br /><b>N.V. Marques de Gelida Cava</b> - it's a decent, inexpensive cava. Nice acidity, light, juicy but dry. No toast.<br /><br /><b>2008 Shaya Verdejo</b> - very sauvignon blanc like, without the cat piss, but the grassy notes on the nose started to put me off. The label didn't say "Rueda Verdejo", so there may well be some S.B. in it. But then again, Verdejo can be s.b.-ish all on it's own too, no?<br /><br /><b>2008 Tilia Torrontes</b> - I initially liked this quite a bit, petrichor on the nose, a surprising amount of clay and umami on the palate. However, there was a sort milled spice (like a combo of cumin and coriander) which I enjoyed at first but that got too strong as the wine warmed up.<br /><br /><b>2007 Catena Chardonnay</b> - oaked but not overtly so, but really just plain boring. I kept tasting this to see if there was something there, but there wasn't.<br /><br /><b>2007 Atteca Old Vine Garnacha</b> - a little bit smokey/earthy/savoury nose, and a very nice amount of pop to it, brightness, fruit, medium bodied. Not terribly complex but really a pretty pleasant wine from Catalayud. <br /><br /><b>2006 Juan Gil Monastrell</b> - very modern international style wine, creamy, jammy. Nothing to be excited about, but for a large party, the majority of folks would enjoy this.<br /><br /><b>2007 Catena Malbec</b> - surprisingly similar to the previous wine. That's not good. Buy whichever one is cheaper.<br /><br />At this point, our waiter, L., informed us that we would not get new wines unless we finished what was on the table. Dangerous instructions. A. was polishing stuff off at alarming rate, while my more measured pace (and clear offense to the white wines in front of me) resulted in "wuss" taunts. From the waiter. Mark yourselves, gents, mark yourselves.<br /><br /><b>2005 Allende Rioja</b> - much lighter and approachable than the 2004, which was a tannic monster a while back. I've been meaning to try that again actually, this will probably give me the push. About $18 or so?<br /><br />L's quips kept rolling, you had to be there, but it was flaming and funny. Turns out L. wasn't much of wine drinker... no, it's vodka and Jaegermeister for him. We'd been talking about bitters, so L. came round with shots of the huntsman for us, <i>gratis</i>. As if we needed more. Onward!<br /><br />L. must have had a brain cramp, because now... <i>now</i> is when he rolled out the <b>2008 Vega Sindoa Rosé</b>. Not sure my palate was up for this at this point, but it was bright, fresh, juicy, and reasonably dry. <br /><br /><b>2007 Volver Tempranillo</b> - <i>Frères, venez vite, je buvant bois</i>. "Brothers, come quickly, I'm drinking lumber." Fruity, thick, and oh so much oak.<br /><br />But what's this? A., propping up his head? Who's the wuss now? Meanwhile, V., having prepared to marathon and not sprint, powers ahead. Not just powers ahead, is pulling energy from his faltering opponent and puts in a solid push. <br /><br /><b>2006 Catena Cabernet Sauvignon</b> - This didn't strike me one way or the other.<br /><br /><b>2006 Alma Negra</b> - a Bonarda Malbec blend. Biggish... modern style. Don't remember much else.<br /><br />A. was reeling... seeing this, I knew it was time for the knockout. I asked for the drinks menu and selected his ultimate nemesis... grappa... he lurched... left... right... hanging onto earth like grim death... so we pushed ourselves outside, and waited to be fetched.<br /><br />Good times! We're heading back on August 7th, reservations made.</span>

Ginban 50 Junmai Daiginjo [1 Koku - 69]

From Toyama Prefecture's Ginban Shuzo. Yamada Nishiki rice milled to 50%, SMV +5, acidity 1.2, and 15.5% abv. A ricey, marigold nose. Floral. Sweetish entry, rich (not very light), rather earthy when very chilled, a bit awkward. More balanced as it warms up, but before room temperature. Fairly bitter and peppery on the finish, slightly anaesthetising. Some wood spice, a little savoury. Not very mizumitai, which was really what I hoping for. <img alt="Ginban 50" border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_9T848u4wxrU/Sl-2VddNSgI/AAAAAAAAATY/saGkkKjjHJA/s400/IMGP2074.JPG" width="400"><br />From Toyama Prefecture's Ginban Shuzo. Yamada Nishiki rice milled to 50%, SMV +5, acidity 1.2, and 15.5% abv. A ricey, marigold nose. Floral. Sweetish entry, rich (not very light), rather earthy when very chilled, a bit awkward. More balanced as it warms up, but before room temperature. Fairly bitter and peppery on the finish, slightly anaesthetising. Some wood spice, a little savoury. Not very <i>mizumitai</i>, which was really what I hoping for.

Kaiun Junmai Ginjo [1 Koku - 70]

From Doi Shuzo in Shizuoka Prefecture.Yamada Nishiki rice milled to 50%, SMV +5, 16% abv. Nose is very lightly musky w/ tropical fruit, like pineapple juice, in a very delicate sort of way mind you. I was surprised to find that the very first sip was actually a little frizzante, quite fruity. Initially quite rich, dense, lots of melon, but then good acidity, bitters, and a light, clean finish. I like it best with a good chill, as the alcohol starts poking out as it gets to room temperature, and you can feel a touch of heat on the finish.

Today's interesting trivia... the toji for Doi Shuzo, along with the toji from Tengumai (the Yamahai we opened last weekend), Masuizumi and Jokigen are collectively referred to as Noto Toji Shiten-o - I guess this is something like the "Four heavenly Toji of the Noto Guild". They're considered the best of the best of Noto. John Gaunter considers the Doi/Kaiun toji "easily one of the most impressive toji in Japan." High praise indeed, no? I am enjoying this, would be interested to check out their other products. <img alt="kaiun" border="0" src="http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w250/orie0704/Kaiun.gif"><br /><br />From Doi Shuzo in Shizuoka Prefecture.Yamada Nishiki rice milled to 50%, SMV +5, 16% abv. Nose is very lightly musky w/ tropical fruit, like pineapple juice, in a very delicate sort of way mind you. I was surprised to find that the very first sip was actually a little frizzante, quite fruity. Initially quite rich, dense, lots of melon, but then good acidity, bitters, and a light, clean finish. I like it best with a good chill, as the alcohol starts poking out as it gets to room temperature, and you can feel a touch of heat on the finish.<br /><br />Today's interesting trivia... the toji for Doi Shuzo, along with the toji from Tengumai (the Yamahai we opened last weekend), Masuizumi and Jokigen are collectively referred to as <i>Noto Toji Shiten-o</i> - I guess this is something like the "Four heavenly Toji of the Noto Guild". They're considered the best of the best of Noto. John Gaunter considers the Doi/Kaiun toji "<i>easily one of the most impressive toji in Japan</i>." High praise indeed, no? I am enjoying this, would be interested to check out their other products.

Tengumai Junmai Yamahai Shikomi [1 Koku - 71]

From Shata Shuzo in Ishikawa, made from gohyakumangoku rice milled to 60%, SMV +4, acidity 1.9, amino acidity 1.8, and 15.8% abv. Relatively clean nose, smoky, incense notes, salty air. On the palate, smoky, mushroomy, brine, seaweed, chocolate, charcoal... good acidity... sweet on entry, but then tart, bitter, savoury... this is umami.... contradictory finish... it's clean, yes, really, but the aftertaste is complex, cocoa, caramel... intense stuff... can't drink a lot of this at a go, one, maybe two cups, and then it's just too much intensity... super sipping stuff. <img alt="tengumai" border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_9T848u4wxrU/SlFVS4t602I/AAAAAAAAAS0/ZbXqAR00-cQ/s400/IMGP0999.JPG" width="400"><br />From Shata Shuzo in Ishikawa, made from <i>gohyakumangoku</i> rice milled to 60%, SMV +4, acidity 1.9, amino acidity 1.8, and 15.8% abv. Relatively clean nose, smoky, incense notes, salty air. On the palate, smoky, mushroomy, brine, seaweed, chocolate, charcoal... good acidity... sweet on entry, but then tart, bitter, savoury... this is umami.... contradictory finish... it's clean, yes, really, but the aftertaste is complex, cocoa, caramel... intense stuff... can't drink a lot of this at a go, one, maybe two cups, and then it's just too much intensity... super sipping stuff.

Shichiken Junmai Ginjo [1 Koku - 72]

"Seven Philosophers" From Yamanashi Meijo Shuzo in Chubu. The brewery, dating back to 1749, is apparently located along the Edo era Koshu highway, on a site famed for its local water, called Hakushu. Even the Emperor Meiji has stayed at the brewery founder's home! Love these stories.

Ah, but what of these wise men (and why seven???) Miyama Nishiki rice milled to 55%, SMV +4, acidity 1.4 (I'm liking the profile already), non-foaming #9 yeast (901), and 14.1% alcohol. The nose is a little forward, sweet melon and steamed rice, but the palate goes in a different, richer and more savoury direction. Roasted rice notes, light bitters and good minerality on the attack, a little heat accentuating earthiness/savouriness, and then good finishing acidity, tidying everything up. This has been described as autumnal, and I think that's apt. I'd like to get another bottle and save it for a fall bonfire. <img alt="shichiken" border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_9T848u4wxrU/Sk97hkhHSjI/AAAAAAAAASk/IVNmHnJ7R_0/s400/IMGP0983.JPG" width="400"><br />"Seven Philosophers" From Yamanashi Meijo Shuzo in Chubu. The brewery, dating back to 1749, is apparently located along the Edo era Koshu highway, on a site famed for its local water, called <i>Hakushu</i>. Even the Emperor Meiji has stayed at the brewery founder's home! Love these stories.<br /><br />Ah, but what of these wise men (and why seven???) Miyama Nishiki rice milled to 55%, SMV +4, acidity 1.4 (I'm liking the profile already), non-foaming #9 yeast (901), and 14.1% alcohol. The nose is a little forward, sweet melon and steamed rice, but the palate goes in a different, richer and more savoury direction. Roasted rice notes, light bitters and good minerality on the attack, a little heat accentuating earthiness/savouriness, and then good finishing acidity, tidying everything up. This has been described as <i>autumnal</i>, and I think that's apt. I'd like to get another bottle and save it for a fall bonfire.

Take no Tsuyu Junmai [1 Koku - 73]

"Bamboo Dew" or "Bamboo tears", from Yamagata Prefecture. Miyama Nishiki rice milled to 60%, SMV +2, acidity 1.4, amino acidity 1.2, and pretty low alcohol, only 14.5%. Good body, full-on springwater with a cleansing bitterness around the edges, and very light-feeling finish. Whatever the translation, I think the name perfect. <img alt="takenotsuyu" border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_9T848u4wxrU/Sk6T9v3USKI/AAAAAAAAASU/zaJZ0AGx3mg/s400/IMGP0972.JPG" width="400"><br />"Bamboo Dew" or "Bamboo tears", from Yamagata Prefecture. Miyama Nishiki rice milled to 60%, SMV +2, acidity 1.4, amino acidity 1.2, and pretty low alcohol, only 14.5%. Good body, full-on springwater with a cleansing bitterness around the edges, and very light-feeling finish. Whatever the translation, I think the name perfect.

Mushohai Junmai Ginjo [1 Koku - 74]

A junmai ginjo from Nara Toyosawa Shuzo in Nara Prefecture. Yamadanishiki rice milled to 55%, SMV +3, acidity 1.5, amino acidity 1.4, 15.5% alcohol, a proprietary yeast, and Nara's soft water. A bright, ricey nose, initially quite round, but then spicy and savoury, a flash of blue cheese funk across the middle, cooked off by a flash of heat and then a lingering clean sweetness. Very nice. <img alt="mushohai" border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_9T848u4wxrU/Sku2yISBxaI/AAAAAAAAASM/KiRevFOT1XY/s400/IMGP0963.JPG" width="400"><br />A junmai ginjo from Nara Toyosawa Shuzo in Nara Prefecture. Yamadanishiki rice milled to 55%, SMV +3, acidity 1.5, amino acidity 1.4, 15.5% alcohol, a proprietary yeast, and Nara's soft water. A bright, ricey nose, initially quite round, but then spicy and savoury, a flash of blue cheese funk across the middle, cooked off by a flash of heat and then a lingering clean sweetness. Very nice.

Not kvetching

No rest for the wicked. Went to an Israeli wine-tasting last night, co-hosted by a local Israeli restaurant. Very importantly, I learned something about hummus - the Israeli version is a 1:1 blend of garbanzos to tahini, or at least their version is. What a great taste, and spiked with a bit of cumin. I'm committing that to memory, it was excellent.

N.V. Golan Heights Winery "Yarden" Brut (Galilee): 1:1 PN/Chardonnay, 12% abv. Actually, quite a nice sparkler, made in methode champenoise, but devoid of toastiness. I'd place this somewhere between a Prosecco (has that juicy sweet side) and Cava (has a bit of presence, nice stoniness and bitters). This went so well with the hummus. Really, really well. Kosher wine.

2007 Flam Sauvignon Blanc/ Chardonnay (Judean Hills): a 70:30 blend, 13.5% abv, unoaked. I... I... liked this. Lush, but nicely balanced and very clean. I'm always a bit afraid of S.B., but there was nothing offensive here. Instead, there was an interesting sake-like melon component on both the nose and the palate. Nice minerality, touches of smoke. Ok, it was a little bit sweet, but there were some nice bitters and good acidity, like springwater. Not Kosher wine. Served with something called Tavor Konafi, a very stinky unpasteurised cheese, seared, topped with a sort of pastry netting, and accompanied by a spring pea puree. Another nice combo.

2005 Clos de Gat Chardonnay (no, Hills of Judea): 14% and lotsa oak. The vanilla was everywhere, but no butter. Juicy and on the sweet side, decent acidity, but not a style I'd go for. One element I did enjoy here though... mandarin orange segments in light syrup. I've not seen it anywhere but Japan or Korea. Well, this had that. And I thought that neat. This was served with a very tasty borekas - phyllo dough pastry, stuffed, I believe, with something vegetable.

2007 Sea Horse Winery "Gaudi" (no, no, Judean Hills): a 60:20:20 blend of Carignan, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Syrah, 13% abv. Nose was a bit jammy, piles of black cherries, absolutely piles. Palate was much more restrained, light, clean, pretty brambly sweet and peppery, a touch stemmy perhaps. No savoury elements for me. It seems that this has just made it to US shores for the first time in the past couple of months, but it isn't yet with retailers. Served with a very tasty kibbeh.

2005 Saslove Winery "Adom" (Upper Galilee): a 14% 60:40 shiraz/cabernet blend. It was funny to hear them contrast this winemaker ("ultimate interventionist") with the former ("uncertified biodynamic"). Despite what anyone says, I think of this as Aussie fruit-bomb-lite. It's purple, it's vanilla and chocolate... yes, it's a bit bombish. And served with chopped liver and chicken cracklings? Something wayward here...

2006 Carmel "Sha'al" Late Harvest Gewürztraminer (Galilee): 9.5% abv, definitely botrytised. Primarily apricot, orange peel and honey, with actually a quite subtle lychee note. Lighter than I expected, really not heavy concentration at all, which, actually, since the acidity wasn't so high, made this quite nice for a sticky. A cooling sweetness, and a touch of "levant" spice. Imagined or not, I was tasting a bit of clove there. Served with roasted apricot and a very pungent ash-rolled goat cheese.

All in all, an interesting tasting. I was rather expecting it to be more like all the bad side of Lebanon, but it wasn't. I wonder the prices though. Another interesting factoid... it seems that no indigenous varietals are used in Israel at present (nor do they know about historical vines - i.e., biblical varietals). No rest for the wicked. Went to an Israeli wine-tasting last night, co-hosted by a local Israeli restaurant. Very importantly, I learned something about hummus - the Israeli version is a 1:1 blend of garbanzos to tahini, or at least their version is. What a great taste, and spiked with a bit of cumin. I'm committing that to memory, it was excellent<span class="fullpost">. <br /><br /><b>N.V. Golan Heights Winery "Yarden" Brut</b> (Galilee): 1:1 PN/Chardonnay, 12% abv. Actually, quite a nice sparkler, made in methode champenoise, but devoid of toastiness. I'd place this somewhere between a Prosecco (has that juicy sweet side) and Cava (has a bit of presence, nice stoniness and bitters). This went so well with the hummus. Really, really well. Kosher wine.<br /><br /><b>2007 Flam Sauvignon Blanc/ Chardonnay</b> (Judean Hills): a 70:30 blend, 13.5% abv, unoaked. I... I... liked this. Lush, but nicely balanced and very clean. I'm always a bit afraid of S.B., but there was nothing offensive here. Instead, there was an interesting sake-like melon component on both the nose and the palate. Nice minerality, touches of smoke. Ok, it was a little bit sweet, but there were some nice bitters and good acidity, like springwater. Not Kosher wine. Served with something called <i>Tavor Konafi</i>, a very stinky unpasteurised cheese, seared, topped with a sort of pastry netting, and accompanied by a spring pea puree. Another nice combo.<br /><br /><b>2005 Clos de Gat Chardonnay</b> (no, Hills of Judea): 14% and lotsa oak. The vanilla was everywhere, but no butter. Juicy and on the sweet side, decent acidity, but not a style I'd go for. One element I did enjoy here though... mandarin orange segments in light syrup. I've not seen it anywhere but Japan or Korea. Well, this had that. And I thought that neat. This was served with a very tasty <i>borekas</i> - phyllo dough pastry, stuffed, I believe, with something vegetable.<br /><br /><b>2007 Sea Horse Winery "Gaudi"</b> (no, no, Judean Hills): a 60:20:20 blend of Carignan, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Syrah, 13% abv. Nose was a bit jammy, piles of black cherries, absolutely piles. Palate was much more restrained, light, clean, pretty brambly sweet and peppery, a touch stemmy perhaps. No savoury elements for me. It seems that this has just made it to US shores for the first time in the past couple of months, but it isn't yet with retailers. Served with a very tasty <i>kibbeh</i>.<br /><br /><b>2005 Saslove Winery "Adom"</b> (Upper Galilee): a 14% 60:40 shiraz/cabernet blend. It was funny to hear them contrast this winemaker ("<i>ultimate interventionist</i>") with the former ("<i>uncertified biodynamic</i>"). Despite what anyone says, I think of this as Aussie fruit-bomb-lite. It's purple, it's vanilla and chocolate... yes, it's a bit bombish. And served with chopped liver and chicken cracklings? Something wayward here...<br /><br /><b>2006 Carmel "Sha'al" Late Harvest Gewürztraminer</b> (Galilee): 9.5% abv, definitely botrytised. Primarily apricot, orange peel and honey, with actually a quite subtle lychee note. Lighter than I expected, really not heavy concentration at all, which, actually, since the acidity wasn't so high, made this quite nice for a sticky. A cooling sweetness, and a touch of "levant" spice. Imagined or not, I was tasting a bit of clove there. Served with roasted apricot and a very pungent ash-rolled goat cheese.<br /><br />All in all, an interesting tasting. I was rather expecting it to be more like all the bad side of Lebanon, but it wasn't. I wonder the prices though. Another interesting factoid... it seems that no indigenous varietals are used in Israel at present (nor do they know about historical vines - i.e., biblical varietals).</span>