Tuesday, November 30, 2010

Hakurei Junmai Ginjo Daikarakuchi

Hakurei Junmai Ginjo Daikarakuchi
From Kyoto Prefecture's Hakurei, located near Amanohashidate on the west coast. Yamada Nishiki grown on the Tango peninsula, milled to 60%, SMV +10, acidity 1.7, and 15.5% abv. Sweet and floral nose, followed by a sweet and savoury entry, medium bodied, starchy and unsurprisingly, very dry, leaving a long, clean, astringent, almost ringing sensation in the mouth. I'm digging this, and the bottle has a pleasantly different shape, with a more elegant but abbreviated neck - I'm enjoying looking at this bottle, and then I'm enjoying drinking the contents. Simple pleasures.

Wednesday, November 24, 2010

Daishinsyu Junmai Ginjo

Daishinsyu Junmai Ginjo
From Daishinsyu Breweries in Nagano Prefecture, which, it seems, has proven that sake-brewing is the elixir of long-life, as the previous Toji semi-retired just a couple of years ago at the age of 92! Or perhaps it is just their sake? This one is, perhaps a bit unusually, 100% Yamada Nishiki. Most of the sake here is brewed with Miyama Nishiki rice, and except for the Yamada Nishiki, all of it is grown in Nagano. Perhaps this is why they don't offer any more information on this sake than that it is milled to 60% and clocks in at a modest 15% abv. Nonetheless, long life! Nose is elegantly light, more floral than fruity. Clean alpine flavour, soft, sweet fruitiness followed by a sweet grain alcohol finish that does not burn. Yum! Now need to get some Nagano soba in me!

Saturday, November 20, 2010

Kubota Senjyu


The tokubetsu honjozo from Niigata's largest brewer, Asahi Shuzo. One of the most recognisable sake brands in Japan, for sure, a hugely popular pub-sake. A bit expensive, but very very reliable. R.'s first sake in Japan, I believe.

Kung Pao!!!!!


Gohyakumangoku milled to 55%, SMV +6, acidity 1.2, and 15.5% abv. Invitingly creamy nose, bananas but also stoniness. Sweetish, round entry, sticky midway carnival things, but with a solidly starchy mid and a clean, refreshing finish, very pleasant acidity. Alcohol well integrated all the way up to room temperature, I'd say it's a touch fuller than a lot of Niigata-sake, but that clean finish is benchmark stuff. Versatile, and did I mention reliable?

Tuesday, November 16, 2010

Sake Monogatari Aki-agari Ginjo Hiyaoroshi


One more souvenir from Osaka Prefecture's Mukune, a singly-pasteurised brew, and the first batch of fall-release sake. Gohyakumangoku and Nihonbare milled to 60%, SMV +3, acidity 1.6, 17.5% abv. Floral nose with darker wood and sour roast rice notes. Moderately big and round on the entry, caramel and wood spice on the mid, followed by sharp acidity and assertively dry finish. This is all transitional, bold and lovely for a cool autumn evening.

Saturday, November 13, 2010

Tweed!

Philly Tweed Ride today.

Lots of two-wheelers and tweed. Tricycles and tweed. Penny farthings and tweed...

Thursday, November 11, 2010

Genbei-san no Ginjo Genshu Namazake


From Kyoto Prefecture's Fushimi district, Yamamoto Honke exports a number of sake to the U.S., none of which particularly hold my attention, let alone affection. Which is a shame, because this stuff rocks! 17.5% of fragrant, syrupy, sharp and intoxicating goodness. If this is indeed Mr. Genbei's brew, Inari bless him and all of the brewery's 333 years (yes, founded in 1677!) Served on tap from a tank sitting squarely in the brewery's on-site specialist chicken restaurant, Torisei, which is equally a cracking good time. Not to mention the excellent sake lees soft-serve ice cream available at their shop next door. Forget Ryoanji, Kinkakuji, Kiyomizudera, Heian Jingu and Arashiyama, this is the highlight of any visit to Kyoto.

Monday, November 8, 2010

Rikyubai Nama Tokubetsu Junmai

Rikyubai
From the brewery of 1000 names, no, really... Daimon Shuzo, Mukune, Sakahan, Rikyubai... picked up last month on what is turning into an annual visit to Katano, just outside of Osaka. Gohyakumangoku milled to 55% for the koji, Nihonbare milled to 60% for the main mash. SMV +5, acidity 1.7, amino acidity 1.2, #901 yeast and 15.8% abv. A particularly nutty, high-toned nose, medium-bodied sweetness on the entry and a sweet/sour/savoury finish, joined together by lightly syrupy fermented melon on the mid-palate, which is where most of the nama-ness showed. Yum.

Saturday, November 6, 2010

Sake Daze


Manhattan, Wine of Japan sake portfolio tasting. A quick survey, focusing on the new, but also noting some changes:

Akita Homare (Akita Prefecture)
  • Pride of Akita Junmai Daiginjo: Akita Sake Komachi milled to 41%, Komachi yeast, SMV +0.5. I remember being surprised by this last year, as it was very rich and full-flavoured for a daiginjo, and surprisingly dry for such a low SMV. This was quite different, lightly earthy nose, but pretty cool, clean, and lightly sweet. Go figure


Banshu Ikkon (Hyogo Prefecture)
  • Kaede no Shizuku (Maple Leaf Rain Drop) Junmai Ginjo: Hyogo Yumenishiki milled to 60%, SMV +3. Hello? Last year this was all campfires and bacon on the nose, this year softly perfumed. Palate was very similar, mild and smooth.


Sanwa Shuzo (Shizuoka Prefecture)
  • Garyubai Junmai Daiginjo: Yamada Nishiki milled to 40%, SMV +2. Ay, still a lovely drop. Smooth, soft, caressing, perhaps a touch too sweet to be properly mizumitai.


Kan Nihonkai (Shimane Prefecture)
  • Ryoshizake Junmai Ginjo: Yamada Nishiki and Gohyakumangoku milled to 50%, SMV +4. Fresh, mild nose, soft, light, round, delicate, clean, but with a firmly starchy dry finish.
  • Mizusumi no Sato Junmai Daiginjo: Yamada Nishiki milled to 40%, SMV +3. More fruitiness than the Ryoshizake, but with a milder nose than last year, where the sour nuttiness didn't quite agree with me.
  • Chokarakuchi Junmai Genshu: Gohyakumangoku milled to 65%, SMV +15!!!: Powerful and earthy, full-bodied, almost syrupy melon, but also a bit hollow-feeling on the mid and hot on the finish. No, not quite my thing, this place.


Ohara Shuzo (Fukushima Prefecture) - a new brewery for me.
  • Kurashikku Junmai Daiginjo (2005): Yamada Nishiki, and SMV +1. Savoury nose, fried onions, also more fried onions on the palate, but relatively dry. Odd. Aged in the bottle.
  • Kangenkaku Junmai Daiginjo (2009): Yamada Nishiki, SMV +1, acidity 1.5, amino acidity 1.0, #9 yeast. Apparently the same brew as the Kurashikku J.D., and much cleaner and enjoyably sweeter.
  • Kurashikku Junmai: also from Yamada Nishiki, SMV +2. Notably pungent and earthy on the nose, soft and round, with an earthy and savoury finish. Not my favorite.


Maihime (Nagano Prefecture)
  • Maihime (Dancing Princess) Junmai Ginjo: Miyama Nishiki milled to 50%, SMV +3. Almost the opposite sake from last year, which I'd found rich and mellow, and distinctly chocolate-y. Weirdly, this year's description calls this a mellow sake, whereas last year's suggested it was light and dry - more appropriate this year! The nose, however, was sour, almost pungent, with shellac tones. Strange.
  • Maihime Tokubetsu Junmai Karakuchi Ki-ippon: Miyama Nishiki milled to 55%, SMV +6. Clean nose, light and pine. Sharply dry, slightly astringent, not as pleasant as the JG.
  • Maihime Tokubetsu Junmai Karakuchi Ki-ippon: Curiously, they were pouring a second bottle with exactly the same name, yet they said that this was a new product, not in the catalog, and not available for export. It certainly tasted different, rather more sour and assertive, with a softer, sweeter finish.

    Here it is, the new product.



Kanazawa Nakamura (Ishikawa Prefecture) - the highlight here should have been being able to try the cup sake version of the Nichiei Junmai which is intended to be served frozen (now called Kaga no Yukizake. Only, they served it just chilled. Bad form! Less information seems to be the style of the day as well, very little technical info available.
  • Nichiei (Glory of the Sun) Junmai Daiginjo: All I know is this is SMV +5 (last year's was Yamada Nishiki milled to 50%, SMV ±0, acidity 1.5, amino acidity 1.4, yeast #14)... hmmm. Come on now! This was tasty, sweet, earthy and melon fresh on the nose... how they'd do all that? Entry is sweet and musky but followed a huge slope down to a clean and very dry finish. Nice!
  • Nichiei Junmai Ginjo: Yamada Nishiki, sour and pungent nose, light and smooth, with sour and savoury edges. Much preferred the J.D. What's going on with me?


Toshimori (Okayama Prefecture)
  • Sake Hitosuji Akaiwaomachi Junmai Daiginjo: Akaiwa Omachi milled to 38%, SMV +4. Another full-bodied daiginjo, dry, nutty, sour, earthy, with good acidity. Finally, a consistent sake! Next!


Ozawa Shuzo (Tokyo Prefecture) - after seeing that Sake and Kimono fellow's blog, with the video at Sawanoi, I needed to have a little sip, even if I already know I like their stuff. So, a bit of Genroku Junmai for me: Akihikari milled to 90%, SMV -8. To refresh, this sake is produced in a manner and style from a period in the late 17th century. In addition to the more coarse milling, the mash is fermented in casks made of sugi. Clearly a different style of sake.


Shirakawago (Gifu Prefecture) - having failed to get to Shirakawago for the Douburoku Festival, despite having actually been "in the area" (will I forgive myself?), I felt compelled to visit the table and tell of my woes. I was rewarded with a sample of a new product, yet to be released I was told, not even in Japan. Maybe they were just trying to make me feel better?


This, on the right, is Awanigori Junmai, a bottle fermented sparkling nigori-zake! It is only slightly bubbly, but nicely dry, sort of like that Bijofu sparkling nigori J. and I had on our last night in Kyoto. I do like this trend of drier sparkling sake. It's more enjoyable and less of an oddity.


Otani Shuzo (Tottori Prefecture)
  • Takaisami (Hawk's Bravery) Nakadare Junmai Ginjo: They told me that this is a new product, different from last year's in that it is shizuku - drip pressed. I thought it tasted rather the same, which is to say, it was very nice, running the gamut, sweet entry, starchy and dry mid and a clean finish. Solid sake.



Tenryo (Gifu Prefecture)
  • Hidahomare (Pride of Hida) Junmai Ginjo: Hidahomare milled to 50%, SMV +3, and brewed with a flower yeast. Rich, aromatic nose, both savoury and fruity, contrasting palate - bright but mild, light and starchy.
  • Koshu Junmai Daiginjo: Hidahomare milled to 50%, SMV +4, aged 3 years in the bottle at 6°C. I liked this last year, and no change - rich, but soft and elegant, nice acidity, satisfying.



Kitagawahonke (Kyoto Prefecture) - this Fushimi brewer, known for the brand Tomio, was not present last year, but the president's wife was on hand, and very happy to hear that I'd just recently been to Kyoto, and enjoyed their Hiyaoroshi. Effusive invitations to visit followed.
  • Tomio Tokubetsu Junmai: brewed from "organic" Nihonbare rice, this had a particularly full and nutty nose, in contrast with its taste - light, mild, and starchy, fairly dry with sour highlights - tasty, and slightly askance of the typically soft Fushimi style.



Asabiraki (Iwate Prefecture)
  • Nanbu Touji Tokubetsu Junmai Kimoto: Hyogo Tamasakae (organic) milled to 60%, SMV +2, acidity and amino acidity 1.5. Fruity nose, pleasantly nutty and savoury.
  • Zen Junmai Ginjo: A new product, Gin Otome milled to 55%, SMV +1. Milder and cleaner than the Zen Tokubetsu Junmai but with a similar nuttiness. Only available in a 400ml bottle, an unusual size.




Last stop was at the Kitaya table, where shacho was on hand. Evidently, he remembered our night at the karaoke bar earlier in the year, as I was greeted with a big bear hug and enthusiastic shaking of hands! Followed by a generous helping of his Junmai Daiginjo Kasumizake, a lovely usu-nigori which I can't get enough of!

Thursday, November 4, 2010

López (de Heredia) Tonight!


A super evening with Maria Jose López de Heredia. The wine lineup was certainly not the highlight, being mostly new releases, for a wine that takes decades, even generations to shine. The food was good, very good sometimes, but not amazing. However, the company more than made up for it, with my friend B. having flown in from Phoenix just for the dinner, Maria Jose being extremely convivial and charming, and Monica, the importer, rounding things out nicely. The important takeaways? Maria Jose has a slight distaste for engineers, likes sake, and the winemaker first mentioned as amongst her favorites? Why, Chateau Musar of course!

First Course:

- Boquerones en Escabeche - house cured anchovy, marinated peppers, pine nuts - these were maybe the most delicious anchovies I've eaten, ever. Really creamy and delicious.
- Sobrasada - house made soft chorizo
- ...and a mystery cheese... I don't remember, it was a late change.

2000 Viña Gravonia Blanco - smells like an overblown California butterball chardonnay, and tastes like anything but. Pretty and tasty, and a certain "in-your-head" quality, largely, I think, due to the difference between the nose and the palate.

2000 Viña Tondonia Rosado - honestly, my favorite wine of the evening, that full on savoury experience. M.J. was very impressed that we've been drinking the '93s in Kyoto, saying she doesn't have any left herself, and if she could find some, she'd buy it back. Of course, she then told us about how much she'd recently enjoyed a '64 rosado. So, not exactly time to drink up then!


Second Course:

- Ravioli de Hongo - duck consommé, alba white truffle, shaved foie gras - this was very nice too!
- Trucha con Jamón - trout, serrano ham, white asparagus, glacier lettuce, black olive
- Menestra en Pintxo - a menestra is supposed to be a sort of vegetable casserole, so I guess this was a "deconstructed" version: artichoke, potato, asparagus, and parsley

2004 Cubillo - Really didn't make an impression, at all.


Third Course

- Chuleta - prime dry aged rib eye, with veal jus
- Patatas a la Riojana - piquillo peppers, smoked hot paprika, and chorizo
- Alcachofas - artichokes, béchamel, idiazabal, black truffle escabèche

1987 Viña Tondonia Blanco Reserva - the first Musarian comparison was made by Monica, the U.S. importer. Not so much that she agreed, but noting that it was not an uncommon comparison. The aromatics are certainly familiar, not convinced that the similarities continue - this seems to be a bit rounder and herbal.

1999 Viña Bosconia Reserva - Lovely balance, but predictably not offering very much at the moment.


Postre

- Crema de Pera - vanilla pear custard, almond cookie, orange gastrique
- petit four - marzipans

Solera 1948 Gran Reserva Fondillon - a 100% Monastrell from Alicante - familiar style but a very dry version. Not from Heredia, but neat!



Soup?

Wednesday, November 3, 2010

Nanbu Bijin Tokubetsu Junmai

Nanbu Bijin Tokubetsu Junmai
Nanbu Bijin Tokubetsu Junmai from Iwate Prefecture. A new label, and strictly by the numbers, appears to be the same sake, with an additional detail: Gin Otome rice, semaibuai 55%, SMV +5, acidity 1.5, amino acidity 1.1, #9 yeast, and 15.5% abv. But, it seems both a little more forward and a little lighter than last year's bottling. Same nose of Yubari melon, white flowers, and rice husks. On the palate, medium body, a little less round, but still with light sweetness. Melon, cucumber, and pear, similar late acidity and bitterness, a touch of rice husk on the finish, and overall, the alcohol seems better integrated. Subtle difference perhaps, but for me an even more pleasurable drop.

Since this is, after all, tokubetsu junmai, it stands to reason that one should not expect consistency year upon year. I'd be very interested to know what the comparator was.