Wakatake Onikoroshi Junmai Daiginjo [1 Koku - 36]

From Shizuoka Prefecture's Oomuraya Shuzo, the Wakatake "Onikoroshi" Junmai Daiginjo is one of only a few sakes at this level available in the U.S. in the isshobin size. Reasonably affordable too - I believe this rang the bell at around $65 or so, though of course your mileage may vary. Brewed from Yamada Nishiki rice milled to 40% and Shizuoka's regional HD-1 yeast, SMV ±0, acidity 1.4, and 16.5% abv. Most "Onikoroshi" - Demon Slayer - I've come across have been very dry, with high SMV numbers. This then must have been another laid back demon, as this sake is anything but aggressive.

With a modest chill, the nose is mostly fresh and green, almost floral stemminess, but also a touch of sweetness. On the palate, soft and silky and graceful and elegant, light, not rich, not particularly dry or sweet, but still rice sweetness on the finish and a nice bite of acidity. It is even surprisingly dry, given the ±0, and even a bit of persistence on the finish. At room temperature though, I was picking up a slightly medicinal hospital note on the nose, which I didn't much like, and a clear taste of alcohol. Better keep it chill. I don't think Chiyonofuji here (千代の富士) would disagree. <img alt="Wakatake" border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_9T848u4wxrU/S2R74NdOeQI/AAAAAAAAA04/qL9f8wu-SEI/s400/IMGP2886.JPG" style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 300px; height: 400px;"><br />From Shizuoka Prefecture's <a href="http://www.meimonshu.jp/modules/xfsection/html/gallery2/kura/seishu/wakatake/index_wakatake.html<br />">Oomuraya Shuzo</a>, the Wakatake "Onikoroshi" Junmai Daiginjo is one of only a few sakes at this level available in the U.S. in the <i>isshobin</i> size. Reasonably affordable too - I believe this rang the bell at around $65 or so, though of course your mileage may vary. Brewed from Yamada Nishiki rice milled to 40% and Shizuoka's regional HD-1 yeast, SMV ±0, acidity 1.4, and 16.5% abv. Most "Onikoroshi" - Demon Slayer - I've come across have been very dry, with high SMV numbers. This then must have been another laid back demon, as this sake is anything but aggressive.<br /><br />With a modest chill, the nose is mostly fresh and green, almost floral stemminess, but also a touch of sweetness. On the palate, soft and silky and graceful and elegant, light, not rich, not particularly dry or sweet, but still rice sweetness on the finish and a nice bite of acidity. It is even surprisingly dry, given the ±0, and even a bit of persistence on the finish. At room temperature though, I was picking up a slightly medicinal hospital note on the nose, which I didn't much like, and a clear taste of alcohol. Better keep it chill. I don't think Chiyonofuji here (千代の富士) would disagree.

Nøgne Ø Special Holiday Ale

I have to admit having gotten a wee bit nervous when the Nøgne Ø website suddenly was replaced by one of those "domain owned by" sites. But, after a couple of weeks, the site is back up, no updates, no explanation, and, well, I'm not going to ask, I'm just happy it's back.

Well, as I ended up with far more Christmas Beer than any good Hindu ought to have, it's taken a while to whittle the seasonal collection down to just this last one, Nøgne Ø Special Holiday Ale. The SHA was conceived in 2008 as a sort of "joint" brew between Stone Brewing Co. and Jolly Pumpkin, the idea being to design a beer with each brewery coming up with a "special" ingredient local to each brewery. From Michigan's Jolly Pumpkin came chestnuts, from California's Stone Brewing came white sage, and from the Ø, juniper berries.

So, if I'm understanding everything correctly (let's say there's a 50:50 chance), each brewery went back with the master plan, and thus three separate batches were (or are) being made. Nøgne Ø's version, the second batch, seems to have only just arrived in the U.S. in the late fall (Kjetil seemed genuinely surprised that I'd already had this in my hands back in November.) Indeed, I have already tried this, though in a far more, um, shall we say festive setting. I only remember that it was good, very very good actually, but not much more. Onwards then.

To recap, malted barley, rye and oats, hops, white sage, carroway, juniper berries and chestnuts. 22° Plato, 50IBUs, 8.5% abv. Nose reminds me of gingerbeer in a saged clay slurry. Soft, thick texture, like a yoohoo, very chewy, creamy without tasting creamy. It's an odd sensation. Definite juniper and sage character, surprisingly dry, mildly malty, slate, but dry, and nice acidity and nutty/baking spice on the finish. The mouthfeel is unusual, the whole package together is intriguing. Couldn't drink lots of this, or regular quantities, I think, but mostly because of the texture - it feels more powerful than it really is.


The above image shows the Stone Brewing release. Their blog has a very detailed description of how this beer came to be. Well worth reading. Jolly Pumpkin's doesn't seem to have been released yet, no idea the status on that.

<img alt="Nogne O Special Holiday Ale" border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_9T848u4wxrU/S2Dl1TQj9DI/AAAAAAAAA0o/3IfvFK0j94k/s400/IMGP2881.JPG" style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 300px; height: 400px;"><br />I have to admit having gotten a wee bit nervous when the <a href="http://www.nogne-o.com/" target="_blank">Nøgne Ø</a> website suddenly was replaced by one of those "domain owned by" sites. But, after a couple of weeks, the site is back up, no updates, no explanation, and, well, I'm not going to ask, I'm just happy it's back.<br /><br />Well, as I ended up with far more Christmas Beer than any good Hindu ought to have, it's taken a while to whittle the seasonal collection down to just this last one, Nøgne Ø Special Holiday Ale. The SHA was conceived in 2008 as a sort of "joint" brew between <a href="http://www.stonebrew.com/" target="_blank">Stone Brewing Co.</a> and <a href="" target="_blank">Jolly Pumpkin</a>, the idea being to design a beer with each brewery coming up with a "special" ingredient local to each brewery. From Michigan's Jolly Pumpkin came chestnuts, from California's Stone Brewing came white sage, and from the Ø, juniper berries<span class="fullpost">. <br /><br />So, if I'm understanding everything correctly (let's say there's a 50:50 chance), each brewery went back with the master plan, and thus three separate batches were (or are) being made. Nøgne Ø's version, the second batch, seems to have only just arrived in the U.S. in the late fall (Kjetil seemed genuinely surprised that I'd already had this in my hands back in November.) Indeed, I have already tried this, though in a far more, um, shall we say festive setting. I only remember that it was good, very very good actually, but not much more. Onwards then. <br /><br />To recap, malted barley, rye and oats, hops, white sage, carroway, juniper berries and chestnuts. 22° Plato, 50IBUs, 8.5% abv. Nose reminds me of gingerbeer in a saged clay slurry. Soft, thick texture, like a yoohoo, very chewy, creamy without tasting creamy. It's an odd sensation. Definite juniper and sage character, surprisingly dry, mildly malty, slate, but dry, and nice acidity and nutty/baking spice on the finish. The mouthfeel is unusual, the whole package together is intriguing. Couldn't drink lots of this, or regular quantities, I think, but mostly because of the texture - it feels more powerful than it really is.<br /><br /><a href="http://blog.stonebrew.com/?p=249" border="0"><img alt="Stones" border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_9T848u4wxrU/S10m_7WBTVI/AAAAAAAAA0g/4wtYS9rXIQQ/s400/specialholidaybottles-245x300.jpg"></a><br />The above image shows the Stone Brewing release. <a href="http://blog.stonebrew.com/?p=249" target="_blank">Their blog has a very detailed description</a> of how this beer came to be. Well worth reading. Jolly Pumpkin's doesn't seem to have been released yet, no idea the status on that.<br /><br /></span>

Gassan no Yuki Junmai Ginjyo [1 Koku - 37]

"Snow of Gassan" from Yamagata Prefecture's Ginrei Gassan Shuzo. Dewa 33 (dewasansan) milled to 50%, SMV +1, acidity 1.3, amino acidity 1.2, 16% abv. Very fresh, clean nose, almost wintergreen and gumdrops. Sweet, wide, anise entry, narrowing over the mid-palate, with melon and crunchy sugar, and dissipating into a finish of starchy, dry acidity... a quickly dissolving flavour-sword stabbing the palate. Delicious.

In its current form, this Gassan Shuzo (not to be confused with the Gassan from Shimane Prefecture, which is actually Yoshida Shuzo) is a youngster, founded in only 1972. However, it is the result of a merger of three older breweries, with a combined history going back to the beginning of the 18th Century.

And what of Dewa 33? This is a special sake rice developed in Yamagata, such that the starchy "white heart" of the rice kernel, the shinpaku, is all that remains after milling to 50% (whereas other varietals, even at this Daiginjo qualifying level, may still not be pure starch.) Consequently, a characteristic trait for sakes made from this rice, brewed only in Yamagata, is a notable sweetness on the palate, even if the sake is brewed dry. A number of Yamagata brewers release a junmai ginjo Dewa 33, brewed with a Yamagata yeast, and the bottles easily identifiable by a sticker with three white mountains (san san) on a blue field:

<img alt="Gassan no Yuki" border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_9T848u4wxrU/S1PstILPOPI/AAAAAAAAAyI/MXgA_4tkAII/s400/IMGP2830.JPG" style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 300px; height: 400px;"><br />"Snow of Gassan" from Yamagata Prefecture's <a href="http://www.gassan-sake.co.jp/" target="_blank">Ginrei Gassan Shuzo</a>. <i>Dewa 33</i> (dewasansan) milled to 50%, SMV +1, acidity 1.3, amino acidity 1.2, 16% abv. Very fresh, clean nose, almost wintergreen and gumdrops. Sweet, wide, anise entry, narrowing over the mid-palate, with melon and crunchy sugar, and dissipating into a finish of starchy, dry acidity... a quickly dissolving flavour-sword stabbing the palate. Delicious.<br /><br />In its current form, <i>this</i> Gassan Shuzo (not to be confused with the Gassan from Shimane Prefecture, which is actually <a href="http://www.e-gassan.co.jp/" target="_blank">Yoshida Shuzo</a>) is a youngster, founded in only 1972. However, it is the result of a merger of three older breweries, with a combined history going back to the beginning of the 18th Century. <br /><br />And what of Dewa 33<span class="fullpost">? This is a special sake rice developed in Yamagata, such that the starchy "white heart" of the rice kernel, the <i>shinpaku</i>, is all that remains after milling to 50% (whereas other varietals, even at this Daiginjo qualifying level, may still not be pure starch.) Consequently, a characteristic trait for sakes made from this rice, brewed only in Yamagata, is a notable sweetness on the palate, even if the sake is brewed dry. A number of Yamagata brewers release a <i>junmai ginjo Dewa 33</i>, brewed with a Yamagata yeast, and the bottles easily identifiable by a sticker with three white mountains (<i>san san</i>) on a blue field:<br /><br /><img alt="dewasansan" border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_9T848u4wxrU/S1nY4NjdDtI/AAAAAAAAAzg/0wqofyNIZKc/s400/IMGP2869.JPG" style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;"></span>

Another Tuesday in the City

If I actually lived in NYC, I think I might be in very great trouble. On Tuesday, City Winery played host to the "New York Pinot Noir Celebration" as part of the Skurnik/Theise "Direct Import" tasting. For me, it was a chance to sample the dark (red) side of the Skurnik portfolio, as well as a chance to revisit my favorite Austrian and Champagne producers.

First things first, I stopped to say hello to my host, and to get a glass of the 2005 Marc Hebrart Special Club. My man calls this my future house wine, and I sure hope he’s right… but more on that another time.


The Austrians - although the Pinot Noir wines were my primary objective for this tasting, I couldn't help myself, so those simply had to wait a bit. Having roundly tasted the Austrians at the last Skurnik tasting in June, I was only looking to taste the few '09s available and to meet the winemakers who weren't in attendance then.

Weingut Berger - the basic '09 Grüner Veltliner was surprisingly silky, soft and full. Seems unusual, but maybe it's just because it's just out of the barrels?

Weingut Nigl - The '09 GV "Freiheit" was beautifully delineated, super acidity, refreshing with classical profile, apples, pears, citrus, lentils, pepper and great minerality. Strike what I thought about the Berger, this was spot on.

Salomon Undhof - I very much enjoyed their 2008s, so was curious to try the first 2009er. No letdown here. The tank sample of the '09 GV "Hochterrassen" had very pronounced aromatics and again a classical profile, already very delicious. Also being poured was the '96 Riesling "Pfaffenberg" Kremstal DAC, which was showing attractive secondary characteristics, teetering on the off-dry but well-balanced and quite elegant. Very enjoyable.

Schloss Gobelsburg - Michael Moosbrugger was on hand to pour, and I got to follow on with my enquiries into the use of acacia - he still uses it for sweet wines, but it seems that the wood for these barrels are dried for several years before cooperage, and are not toasted at all. He also noted that quite a long time ago, there was much more interest in the choice of wood as they were deliberately used to provide aromatics. Interesting.

The '09 GV "Gobelsburger" was light but solid, while the Riesling "Gobelsburger" was very dry and tight but intense - looking forward to getting some of this. The '08 GV "Steinsetz", to my palate, still retains some of the funky characteristics I didn't enjoy last summer. The '08 GV "Renner" on the other hand, was lovely, nicely balanced. So, more hits and misses from '08. To finish, an '08 Riesling "Tradition", nice complexity, tea and citrus and hint of nuttiness.

Reisetbauer - Hans Reisetbauer was on hand, but didn't have either of his carrot or blue gin distillates on hand, so I only sampled the Rowanberry and the Plum, both of which I'd had before. He did explain that there was no difference between the terms obstbrand, edelbrand, and eau de vie. Just don't call his stuff schnapps.

Heidi Schröck - Ms. Schröck was very warm and engaging, clearly loves what she is doing. We spoke a little about the botrytis characteristic of Burgenland and contrasted it with that of Sauternes – she pointed out that Neusiedlersee is cooler, further north, and being a lake, provides a different moisture environment than Sauternes’ rivers. Interesting. Onto the wines. Once again, I preferred the '08 Muscat to the Furmint, but also being poured were three sweet wines. I found the '08 BA (a Welschriesling/Weissburgunder blend) surprisingly like a PX in all but colour, while the '07 Ruster Ausbruch "Turner" was a touch soft (none was made in '08 and '09 due to insufficient yield.) Certainly, the '07 Ausbruch “On the Wings of Dawn” was the sweets highlight, very ambrosia-like, lots more pineapple than I'm used to from Austria. According to the Ms. Schröck, the name was inspired by Psalm 139 ("...If I fly with the wings of dawn and alight beyond the sea, Even there your hand will guide me...") As she explained it, everything important in winemaking happens in the morning.


Germans - Ok, I only tasted one German wine… a 2009 barrel sample from Selbach Oster, not far removed from grape must. Johannes Selbach was saying that the vintage was such that there would be no “real” Kabinett…does not bode well for me if I’m to drink anything German… seems Johannes is a regular visitor to Malaysia! Ah, I probably should have tasted his lineup, seeing as we did enjoy his 2001 Selbach-Oster Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese* last summer, and I had had the question about the difference between the Auslese and Auslese*... oy veh. Next time.


French Pinot - almost all Burgundy, basically uncharted territory for me. Don't know why, even my wine-drinking in the UK was very claret-heavy, virtually no Burgundy, so this is a major gap.

Domaine Marc Roy - three Gevrey-Chambertin, all weighing in at 13.5% abv. I was surprised at the softness and roundness of the '07 "Clos Prieur" and the '06 "Cuvee Alexandrine" (a millerandage wine). Conversely, the '07 "Vielles Vignes" was nicely spicy and meaty, with prominent cinnamon notes and good acidity.

Domaine Dureuil-Janthial - a "practicing organic" producer, the trio of '07 Rully wines were much more to my taste, with both the "En Rosey" and "En Guesnes" open for business. The 1^er Cru "Clos du Chapitre" was also aromatically inviting, but very tight and tannic. Not "blown away" but pleased.

Domaine de l'Arlot - I was very interested to try their 2007 lineup as I had punted on some '05s, and had a rather difficult experience with an experimental bottle. I learned quite a bit here. Mostly, that the '07s were surprisingly approachable in contrast to where the '05 Petit Plets I checked in on recently. This was especially true for the Cotes de Nuits-Villages "Clos du Chapeau", which was just filling all the right spaces, as well as the Nuits St. Georges 1^er Cru "Clos de l'Arlot". Gives me hope.

David Duband - a young producer, of whom the notes from Skurnik suggest that early vintages were oak-driven, but that the recent wines are more elegant. My impression is that that transition is not complete.

Domaine Frederic Magnien - in contrast, the '07 Gevrey-Chambertin "Seuvrees" and 1^er Cru "Lavaut St. Jacques" were both on point, with the former just ready to go, right now, the latter very intense.

The remainder of the French Pinot were single bottle offerings, with a sole non-Burgundy representative, the very appealing 2006 Domaine Bailly-Reverdy Sancerre Rouge, which struck me for an unusual fennel note. Other wines that were drinking well included the biodynamic Domaine Arlaud's 2007 Bourgogne Rouge "Roncevie", which had a very engaging but not stinky funkiness, and Domaine Xavier Besson's 2007 Givry Rouge 1^er Cru "Petit Pretans", which was like a BBQ in a glass.

Others seemed promising, but not really showing, such as Jean Garaudet's 2006 Pommard "Noixons" and Domaine Jean-Luc Dubois's Chorey-les-Beaune "Clos Margot". On the whole though, I must say I was very happy with the Skurnik Burgundy portfolio. I suppose there's no surprise there.


Pinot from New Zealand, Oregon, and California - Conversely, I have to say that I was nearly uniformly unimpressed by the wines and wineries on offer. On average, high alcohol and too much sweetness, whether it be truly residual sugar or perceived. Just much more fruit-dominated than I would typically want in my glass - maybe just a reflection of my liking to drink wine with food, maybe just my internal calibration for balance. Wineries whose lineups I tasted were Mud House, Cairnbrae and Pisa Range Estates from New Zealand, A to Z, Tannahill, Rex Hill, Hatcher, Penner Ash, Cristom, and Domaine Serene from Oregon (Soter had poured out by the time I got to them), and Etude, Stewart Cellars, and Paul Hobbs from California.

Highlights, such as they might have been, were the New Zealanders 2007 Mud House "Swan Reserve" and the 2007 Pisa Range "Black Poplar Block" (both still sweet, but reasonably balanced); the 2007 Cristom "Mt. Jefferson Cuvee" and 2006 Domaine Serene "Grace Vineyard" from Oregon.


Italy Fortunately, there was plenty of time left to the event, and before heading to the Champagne table to shut things down, I was very happy to see Sicily's Terre Nere, which focuses on Etna Rosso, and uses Austrian oak casks to mature their wines, made from largely pre-phylloxera vines grown in some of the highest altitude vineyards in Europe. Skurnik calls these wines Burgundian in character, and having tasted these, I can see where they get that, though my favorites were the ones that were least so - the "Calderara Sottana" which was Burgundian, yes, but also herbal and wild, and the "Feudo di Mezzo" which was dark and brooding, and not quite willing to show its stuff. In contrast, the "Guardiola" and the "Santo Spirito" were rather more refined, I hesitate to say too much so. Would certainly like to try all of these again, frequently.


Champagne - On occasion, it is very nice to finish where one begins! Highlights for me were the N.V. Champagne Varnier Fannière Brut Grand Cru (blanc des blancs), the N.V. Champagne Henri Goutorbe Brut Cuvée Prestige, the N.V. Champagne Pehu-Simonet Brut Selection (this I really want), and, of course, the 2005 Champagne Marc Hébrart Brut Special Club. One more interesting note - the N.V. Champagne Duc de Romet Brut Prestige, which is a 3:1 Pinot Meunier:Pinot Noir cuvée, a Co-Op wine from Vandières, blended by René Geoffroy. I was definitely on the fence for this wine, not sure if I liked the overt grapiness. But what drew my attention was a rather distinctly yamahai / hineka nose... yes, it reminded me of wild yeast and/or age-damaged sake. Weird.

A tremendous afternoon's work. Topped off by another long dinner at Buenos Aires, my new favorite steak restaurant in NYC. <img alt="City Winery" border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_9T848u4wxrU/S1p5Yy0pxXI/AAAAAAAAA0I/2h5Sjf0wJgg/s400/IMGP1373.JPG" style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;"><br />If I actually lived in NYC, I think I might be in very great trouble. On Tuesday, <a href="http://www.citywinery.com/" target="_blank">City Winery</a> played host to the "New York Pinot Noir Celebration" as part of the Skurnik/Theise "Direct Import" tasting. For me, it was a chance to sample the dark (red) side of the Skurnik portfolio, as well as a chance to revisit my favorite Austrian and Champagne producers.<br /><br />First things first, I stopped to say hello to my host, and to get a glass of the <b>2005 Marc Hebrart Special Club</b>. My man calls this my future house wine, and I sure hope he’s right… but more on that another time<span class="fullpost">.<br /><br /><br /><b><u>The Austrians</u></b> - although the Pinot Noir wines were my primary objective for this tasting, I couldn't help myself, so those simply had to wait a bit. Having roundly tasted the Austrians at the last Skurnik tasting in June, I was only looking to taste the few '09s available and to meet the winemakers who weren't in attendance then.<br /><br /><b><a href="http://www.weingut-berger.com/" target="_blank">Weingut Berger</a></b> - the basic '09 Grüner Veltliner was surprisingly silky, soft and full. Seems unusual, but maybe it's just because it's just out of the barrels?<br /><br /><b><a href="http://www.weingutnigl.at/" target="_blank">Weingut Nigl</a></b> - The '09 GV "Freiheit" was beautifully delineated, super acidity, refreshing with classical profile, apples, pears, citrus, lentils, pepper and great minerality. Strike what I thought about the Berger, this was spot on.<br /><br /><b><a href="http://www.salomonwines.com/" target="_blank">Salomon Undhof</a></b> - I very much enjoyed their 2008s, so was curious to try the first 2009er. No letdown here. The tank sample of the '09 GV "Hochterrassen" had very pronounced aromatics and again a classical profile, already very delicious. Also being poured was the '96 Riesling "Pfaffenberg" Kremstal DAC, which was showing attractive secondary characteristics, teetering on the off-dry but well-balanced and quite elegant. Very enjoyable.<br /><br /><b><a href="http://www.gobelsburg.com/" target="_blank">Schloss Gobelsburg</a></b> - Michael Moosbrugger was on hand to pour, and I got to follow on with my enquiries into the use of acacia - he still uses it for sweet wines, but it seems that the wood for these barrels are dried for several years before cooperage, and are not toasted at all. He also noted that quite a long time ago, there was much more interest in the choice of wood as they were deliberately used to provide aromatics. Interesting. <br /><br />The '09 GV "Gobelsburger" was light but solid, while the Riesling "Gobelsburger" was very dry and tight but intense - looking forward to getting some of this. The '08 GV "Steinsetz", to my palate, still retains some of the funky characteristics I didn't enjoy last summer. The '08 GV "Renner" on the other hand, was lovely, nicely balanced. So, more hits and misses from '08. To finish, an '08 Riesling "Tradition", nice complexity, tea and citrus and hint of nuttiness.<br /><br /><b><a href="http://www.reisetbauer.at/" target="_blank">Reisetbauer</a></b> - Hans Reisetbauer was on hand, but didn't have either of his carrot or blue gin distillates on hand, so I only sampled the Rowanberry and the Plum, both of which I'd had before. He did explain that there was no difference between the terms <i>obstbrand</i>, <i>edelbrand</i>, and <i>eau de vie</i>. Just don't call his stuff <i>schnapps</i>.<br /><br /><b><a href="http://www.heidi-schroeck.com/" target="_blank">Heidi Schröck</a></b> - Ms. Schröck was very warm and engaging, clearly loves what she is doing. We spoke a little about the botrytis characteristic of Burgenland and contrasted it with that of Sauternes – she pointed out that Neusiedlersee is cooler, further north, and being a lake, provides a different moisture environment than Sauternes’ rivers. Interesting. Onto the wines. Once again, I preferred the '08 Muscat to the Furmint, but also being poured were three sweet wines. I found the '08 BA (a Welschriesling/Weissburgunder blend) surprisingly like a PX in all but colour, while the '07 Ruster Ausbruch "Turner" was a touch soft (none was made in '08 and '09 due to insufficient yield.) Certainly, the '07 Ausbruch “On the Wings of Dawn” was the sweets highlight, very ambrosia-like, lots more pineapple than I'm used to from Austria. According to the Ms. Schröck, the name was inspired by Psalm 139 ("<i>...If I fly with the wings of dawn and alight beyond the sea, Even there your hand will guide me...</i>") As she explained it, everything important in winemaking happens in the morning.<br /><br /><br /><b><u>Germans</u></b> - Ok, I only tasted one German wine… a 2009 barrel sample from Selbach Oster, not far removed from grape must. Johannes Selbach was saying that the vintage was such that there would be no “real” Kabinett…does not bode well for me if I’m to drink anything German… seems Johannes is a regular visitor to Malaysia! Ah, I probably should have tasted his lineup, seeing as we did enjoy his <b>2001 Selbach-Oster Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese*</b> last summer, and I had had the question about the difference between the Auslese and Auslese*... oy veh. Next time.<br /><br /><br /><b><u>French Pinot</u></b> - almost all Burgundy, basically uncharted territory for me. Don't know why, even my wine-drinking in the UK was very claret-heavy, virtually no Burgundy, so this is a major gap. <br /><br /><b><a href="http://domainemarcroy.winealley.com/exposants_121.htm" target="_blank">Domaine Marc Roy</a></b> - three Gevrey-Chambertin, all weighing in at 13.5% abv. I was surprised at the softness and roundness of the '07 "Clos Prieur" and the '06 "Cuvee Alexandrine" (a <i>millerandage</i> wine). Conversely, the '07 "Vielles Vignes" was nicely spicy and meaty, with prominent cinnamon notes and good acidity.<br /><br /><b><a href="http://www.dureuiljanthial-vins.com/" target="_blank">Domaine Dureuil-Janthial</a></b> - a "practicing organic" producer, the trio of '07 Rully wines were much more to my taste, with both the "En Rosey" and "En Guesnes" open for business. The 1^er Cru "Clos du Chapitre" was also aromatically inviting, but very tight and tannic. Not "blown away" but pleased.<br /><br /><b><a href="http://www.skurnikwines.com/prospects.cgi?rm=view_detail&prospect_id=578" target="_blank">Domaine de l'Arlot</a></b> - I was very interested to try their 2007 lineup as I had punted on some '05s, and had a rather difficult experience with an experimental bottle. I learned quite a bit here. Mostly, that the '07s were surprisingly approachable in contrast to where the '05 Petit Plets I checked in on recently. This was especially true for the Cotes de Nuits-Villages "Clos du Chapeau", which was just filling all the right spaces, as well as the Nuits St. Georges 1^er Cru "Clos de l'Arlot". Gives me hope.<br /><br /><b><a href="http://www.skurnikwines.com/prospects.cgi?rm=view_prospect_detail&prospect_id=569" target="_blank">David Duband</a></b> - a young producer, of whom the notes from Skurnik suggest that early vintages were oak-driven, but that the recent wines are more elegant. My impression is that that transition is not complete. <br /><br /><b><a href="http://www.frederic-magnien.com/" target="_blank">Domaine Frederic Magnien</a></b> - in contrast, the '07 Gevrey-Chambertin "Seuvrees" and 1^er Cru "Lavaut St. Jacques" were both on point, with the former just ready to go, right now, the latter very intense.<br /><br />The remainder of the French Pinot were single bottle offerings, with a sole non-Burgundy representative, the very appealing 2006 <b><a href="http://www.skurnikwines.com/prospects.cgi?rm=view_detail&prospect_id=564" target="_blank">Domaine Bailly-Reverdy</a></b> Sancerre Rouge, which struck me for an unusual fennel note. Other wines that were drinking well included the biodynamic <b><a href="http://www.skurnikwines.com/prospects.cgi?rm=view_detail&prospect_id=200" target="_blank">Domaine Arlaud</a></b>'s 2007 Bourgogne Rouge "Roncevie", which had a very engaging but not stinky funkiness, and <b><a href="http://www.skurnikwines.com/prospects.cgi?rm=view_prospect_detail&prospect_id=526" target="_blank">Domaine Xavier Besson</a></b>'s 2007 Givry Rouge 1^er Cru "Petit Pretans", which was like a BBQ in a glass.<br /><br />Others seemed promising, but not really showing, such as <b><a href="http://www.skurnikwines.com/prospects.cgi?rm=view_prospect_detail&prospect_id=239" target="_blank">Jean Garaudet</a></b>'s 2006 Pommard "Noixons" and <b><a href="http://www.skurnikwines.com/prospects.cgi?rm=view_prospect_detail&prospect_id=221" target="_blank">Domaine Jean-Luc Dubois</a></b>'s Chorey-les-Beaune "Clos Margot". On the whole though, I must say I was very happy with the Skurnik Burgundy portfolio. I suppose there's no surprise there.<br /><br /><br /><b><u>Pinot from New Zealand, Oregon, and California</u></b> - Conversely, I have to say that I was nearly uniformly unimpressed by the wines and wineries on offer. On average, high alcohol and too much sweetness, whether it be truly residual sugar or perceived. Just much more fruit-dominated than I would typically want in my glass - maybe just a reflection of my liking to drink wine with food, maybe just my internal calibration for balance. Wineries whose lineups I tasted were Mud House, Cairnbrae and Pisa Range Estates from New Zealand, A to Z, Tannahill, Rex Hill, Hatcher, Penner Ash, Cristom, and Domaine Serene from Oregon (Soter had poured out by the time I got to them), and Etude, Stewart Cellars, and Paul Hobbs from California.<br /><br />Highlights, such as they might have been, were the New Zealanders 2007 Mud House "Swan Reserve" and the 2007 Pisa Range "Black Poplar Block" (both still sweet, but reasonably balanced); the 2007 Cristom "Mt. Jefferson Cuvee" and 2006 Domaine Serene "Grace Vineyard" from Oregon.<br /><br /><br /><b><u>Italy</u></b> Fortunately, there was plenty of time left to the event, and before heading to the Champagne table to shut things down, I was very happy to see Sicily's <b><a href="http://www.skurnikwines.com/prospects.cgi?rm=view_detail&prospect_id=396" target="_blank">Terre Nere</a></b>, which focuses on Etna Rosso, and uses Austrian oak casks to mature their wines, made from largely pre-phylloxera vines grown in some of the highest altitude vineyards in Europe. Skurnik calls these wines Burgundian in character, and having tasted these, I can see where they get that, though my favorites were the ones that were least so - the "Calderara Sottana" which was Burgundian, yes, but also herbal and wild, and the "Feudo di Mezzo" which was dark and brooding, and not quite willing to show its stuff. In contrast, the "Guardiola" and the "Santo Spirito" were rather more refined, I hesitate to say too much so. Would certainly like to try all of these again, frequently.<br /><br /><br /><b><u>Champagne</u></b> - On occasion, it is very nice to finish where one begins! Highlights for me were the <b>N.V. <a href="http://www.varnier-fanniere.com/" target="_blank">Champagne Varnier Fannière</a> Brut Grand Cru</b> (blanc des blancs), the <b>N.V. <a href="http://www.champagne-henri-goutorbe.com/" target="_blank">Champagne Henri Goutorbe</a> Brut Cuvée Prestige</b>, the <b>N.V. <a href="http://www.champagne-pehu-simonet.com/" target="_blank">Champagne Pehu-Simonet</a> Brut Selection</b> (this I really want), and, of course, the <b>2005 <a href="http://www.skurnikwines.com/prospects.cgi?rm=view_prospect_detail&prospect_id=546" target="_blank">Champagne Marc Hébrart</a> Brut Special Club</b>. One more interesting note - the <b>N.V. <a href="http://www.skurnikwines.com/wines.cgi?rm=view_detail&wine_id=13734" target="_blank">Champagne Duc de Romet</a> Brut Prestige</b>, which is a 3:1 Pinot Meunier:Pinot Noir cuvée, a Co-Op wine from Vandières, blended by René Geoffroy. I was definitely on the fence for this wine, not sure if I liked the overt grapiness. But what drew my attention was a rather distinctly <i>yamahai</i> / <i>hineka</i> nose... yes, it reminded me of wild yeast and/or age-damaged sake. Weird. <br /><br />A tremendous afternoon's work. Topped off by another long dinner at <a href="http://www.buenosairesnyc.com/" target="_blank">Buenos Aires</a>, my new favorite steak restaurant in NYC.</span>

Ōyama Tokubetsu Junmai [1 Koku - 38]

From Yamagata Prefecture's Kahachiro Kato Shuzo, which traces its roots well past its foundation in 1872 to the early Edo period, when the local breweries were so numerous and popular that Ōyama town even drew comparisons to Nada in Kōbe. Like most breweries today, Kahachiro Kato has modernized and mechanized many of the brewing process, but somewhat unusually, the technology has been largely developed in-house in order to best preserve their traditional methods. Staying put by moving forward. Reminds me of someone.

Ōyama is no longer thick on the ground with breweries, so one might say Kahachiro Kato's Ōyama sake is both representative of and a tribute to this small bit of sake culture. This tokubetsu junmai is made from Sasa-Nishiki milled to 60%, SMV +6, acidity 1.3, amino acidity 1.1, 15.5% abv. The sake is brewed with the Yamagata strain of Kumamoto KA yeast, also known as #9. Nose is sweetish and clean, with notes of watermelon and not-quite-ripe banana skins. On the palate, this enters light and smooth, with moderate sweetness and touch of tangy springwater, before progressively gaining in body and dryness until it finishes lightly starchy with notable bitters and plenty of lingering, steely minerality. R. was very happy with this selection. <img alt="Oyama Tokubetsu Junmai" border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_9T848u4wxrU/S1nf0iCpcuI/AAAAAAAAAz4/_nhN_I0yVh4/s400/IMGP2874.JPG" style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;">From Yamagata Prefecture's <a href="http://jizakewine.com/sake%20htm/ooyama.htm" target="_blank">Kahachiro Kato Shuzo</a>, which traces its roots well past its foundation in 1872 to the early Edo period, when the local breweries were so numerous and popular that Ōyama town even drew comparisons to Nada in Kōbe. Like most breweries today, Kahachiro Kato has modernized and mechanized many of the brewing process, but somewhat unusually, the technology has been largely developed in-house in order to best preserve their traditional methods. Staying put by moving forward. Reminds me of someone.<br /><br />Ōyama is no longer thick on the ground with breweries, so one might say Kahachiro Kato's Ōyama sake is both representative of and a tribute to this small bit of sake culture. This <i>tokubetsu junmai</i> is made from <i>Sasa-Nishiki</i> milled to 60%, SMV +6, acidity 1.3, amino acidity 1.1, 15.5% abv. The sake is brewed with the Yamagata strain of Kumamoto KA yeast, also known as #9. Nose is sweetish and clean, with notes of watermelon and not-quite-ripe banana skins. On the palate, this enters light and smooth, with moderate sweetness and touch of tangy springwater, before progressively gaining in body and dryness until it finishes lightly starchy with notable bitters and plenty of lingering, steely minerality. R. was <i>very</i> happy with this selection.

Mizuho Kuromatsu Kenbishi Junmai

Hyogo Prefecture's Mizuho Kuromatsu Kenbishi, founded in 1505 and owners of one of Japan's oldest recognized trademarks. As I understand it, Kenbishi only releases one new product every generation, about once in 25 years, and only works in the yamahai style.

Yamada Nishiki milled to 70%, SMV ±0, acidity 1.7, alcohol 17%, and bottled on 03.04.2009. The very yellow colour and relatively high alcohol suggests that this could be a muroka genshu, or simply aged. Don't know. The nose is full, bright, and high-toned, beguilingly volatile. On the palate, this is rich, full, sour, nutty, with caramel popcorn and great minerality. Plenty of presence here, lively acidity lending balance to the fullness, and a long, slowly unfurling finish, hanging on, hanging on, but still clean. A wonderful, deeply satisfying Yamahai. <img alt="Kenbishi" border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_9T848u4wxrU/S1Tz6zi1muI/AAAAAAAAAyQ/H1ye5KmREPs/s400/IMGP2863.JPG" style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 300px; height: 400px;"><br />Hyogo Prefecture's <a href="http://www.sakeno.com/meigara/843" target="_blank">Mizuho Kuromatsu Kenbishi</a>, founded in 1505 and owners of one of Japan's oldest recognized trademarks. As I understand it, Kenbishi only releases one new product every generation, about once in 25 years, and only works in the <i>yamahai</i> style.<br /><br />Yamada Nishiki milled to 70%, SMV ±0, acidity 1.7, alcohol 17%, and bottled on 03.04.2009. The very yellow colour and relatively high alcohol suggests that this could be a <i>muroka genshu</i>, or simply aged. Don't know. The nose is full, bright, and high-toned, beguilingly volatile. On the palate, this is rich, full, sour, nutty, with caramel popcorn and great minerality. Plenty of presence here, lively acidity lending balance to the fullness, and a long, slowly unfurling finish, hanging on, hanging on, but still clean. A wonderful, deeply satisfying Yamahai.

Blaufränkisch

On Friday, R. and I attended a wonderful tasting of blaufränkisch wines, hosted by Winemonger and the Austrian Cultural Forum. Two of our favorite producers were going to be there, Roland Velich of Moric, and Josef Umathum, so we could hardly pass up the chance. What we learned is that there is clearly a movement afoot to elevate blaufränkisch from the murky, fruit-forward and hyper-tannic style of old into wines that are crystalline and aspirational.

The venue: the Austrian Cultural Forum. If not the skinniest building in Manhattan, it must be close.

The crowd: 6 producers, and about 30 guests, writers and buyers and critics for the most part, a lively group, including David Schildneckt, with whom we had an enlightening conversation about some of Austria's even more obscure varietals.

Onwards. Nota bene: most of the wines were blaufränkisch, but there were a couple of other wines being poured as well.


Moric - this was a real treat, as R. and I are big fans of these wines. Apart from discussing the topography and chemistry of the various vineyards, we also spoke a little of his other projects, particularly his Grüner Veltliner... I am now chasing this down, it seems to be not impossible. In the course of that conversation, he noted that while Brundlmayer may be producing some red wines in the Kamptal, it isn't very common. In contrast, Grüner Veltliner has "historically" been the most common varietal planted in all parts of Austria - it's more that it has fallen by the wayside in Burgenland. Interesting... on to the blue... these wines were great, benchmark stuff. All unfiltered, unfined, elevage in 500 liter casks.

2008 Blaufränkisch - translucent, bright, fresh, but raw. Past releases indicate that this will settle hard, but in a very good way.

2007 Moric - This replaces the previous "village" releases in the middle of the range, and is instead a blend of grapes from the various Neckenmarkt (80%) and Lutzmannsberg vineyards. Spicy, but refined, restrained nose. Lots of oak showing at the moment, but again, past history favours the evolution of this wine.

2007 Sankt Georgen - a newer property, about 50km from Neckenmarkt, Moric's only single vineyard wine. Soil marked by more schist. Heather, herbs, dry, twiggy, tannic, but bright and still showing balance.

2007 Lutzmannsberg Alte Reben - if I remember correctly, these parcels are on a plateau, in poor sandy clay soils. Exuberant, creamy nose, mineral, lots of depth.

2007 Neckenmarkt Alte Reben - nine hillside parcels, mostly limestone and slate, this wine is somewhere in between the Lutzmannsberg and the Sankt Georgen, combining the essentials of both wines. Lovely, and still my favorite property.

2007 Jagini - a joint venture (didn't catch the name of the partner), grown in Zagersdorf (again, relatively remote from the other properties.) A brighter, simpler style blaufränkisch. Less raw than the entry-level Moric wine, but simpler too.

As an aside, seems Eric Asimov was at the “journalists’ luncheon” held before the tasting, and was similarly taken with the step-change improvement in quality. Note the comment by Stephen Bitterolf from Crush:

Roland suggests an interesting matrix when trying to describe traditional Blaufränkisch. Make a triangle with Nebbiolo on one point, Burgundian Pinot Noir on the other and the Rhône (I think Northern Rhône) on the final point. In the middle, with attributes suggestive of all three, is Blaufränkisch.




Weingut Umathum - another favorite producer of ours, we don't often get to drink his wines outside of Austria, but I know it's available in the U.S. Very nice to meet the man - when told that we were introduced to his wines by Viennese friends, he - and we - wondered why they never took us down to Burgenland to visit? Why indeed? One interesting bit of conversation concerned the use of Acacia barrels. Apparently, this became most prevalent after WWII, when oak was in limited supply. More interestingly though, Josef told the story of how the acacia became widespread in Europe. As the story went, Louis XIII somehow wanted to plant some acacia (from Africa?) at Versailles. Chronologically, this might be problematic, as XIII pre-dates Linnaean identification of the tree by a couple of centuries, but never mind. Maybe he just liked the pretty, un-named tree. Well, acacia turns out to be a bit of a weed, and self-propogated all across continental Europe, and so, it was widely available. Good story, no? Josef confirmed my thought that this wood lends a honeyed note, especially to white wines. He added though that he had stopped using acacia barrels several years ago, and had in fact sold off the last remaining one at his property in 2006. (That doesn't mean it is completely out of use, just not at Umathum.)

2008 Traminer - a cuvee of yellow and red traminer, with a strongly gewurtz-like tropical nose, but a fascinatingly dry palate. Well-played.

2008 Blaufrankisch - Umathum’s entry level product, very mineral driven, satisfying.

2007 Joiser Kirschgarten - a single vineyard wine, dark chocolate and cherry liqueur, a little aggressive right now.

2006 Joiser Kirschgarten - the oak was relatively prominent on the nose, less so on the palate, where schist and cherries were the theme. Herr Umathum expects this to be a GREAT wine, and for ’06 to be a long-lived vintage.

2004 Joiser Kirschgarten - Much more elegant, absolutely singing. Like all the other blaus, clear ruby red, I presume this bodes well for the younger wines.

2002 Vom Stein Sankt Laurent - very restrained and mineral driven, not particularly wild or spicy… I wonder if this is an anomaly? Schildnekt has lots to say on the subject, so I encouraged him to put together a Saint Laurent tasting such as this one.



Weingut Paul Achs - a first time producer for us to try. We had an interesting conversation about the evolution of blaufränkisch over the past 10-15 years. Just that recently, every blaufränkisch you could find was opaque, tannic nearly to the point of roughness, and purple if not inkily so. The handful of wines that didn’t fit this description seemed to reside only in the private cellars of forward-thinking enthusiasts. Whereas now, we saw a variety of more nuanced and balanced wines. I also got to pick Paul’s brain on Pinot Noir and its mad relative, Saint Laurent. It was his opinion that all else being equal, in Austria, Pinot Noir is the more simple, fruity wine, whereas Saint Laurent brings the spice. Now, I’ve definitely had wilder examples of Pinot Noir from Styria, but in my limited experience, the description makes sense.

2007 Pannobile Chardonnay - very green nose, oak is noticeable. Palate is bright, lucious and rich. Actually does remind me of the Velich chardonnays, but not as complex. Still not my cup of wine.

2008 Heideboden - a vineyard dominated by gravel and humus, though the wine seems to reject these conditions, and is instead quite simple, bright and fruity, though still nicely dry.

2007 Altenberg - sandy soil mixed with humus and loam, ideal terroir for blaufränkisch, so sayeth Paul. The upper slope of this vineyard is cooler, and thus planted with Saint Laurent, while the lower slope is planted with blaufränkisch. Floral and perfumed, rich, almost creamy, quite intoxicating, yet maintaining lightness and balance.

2007 Ungerberg - similar soil composition to the Altenberg, but a lighter, more elegant wine, spicy, herbal, very balanced. Delicious!

2009 Altenberg (barrel sample) - very purple, completely opaque! This is just post-malolactic fermentation, post-malo, very lively, but not just grape must. Paul says that the colour will change soon and become clear and light like the others.




Weingut Prieler - head oenologist, Silvia… Dr. Prieler to you… doctorate in microbiology… Anyways, our first Prielers, not our last. Ms. Prieler likes tea, so we've promised some Malaysian Boh... barter away!

2008 Pinot Blanc spends extended time on the lees. Off dry, apple-driven but crisp enough to be refreshing.

2007 Johannisberg - clay and red pebbles dominate this vineyard. Savoury nose of smoke and hard cheese. Smooth on the palate, very mineral driven.

2007 Leithaberg - a hillside property comprised of schist and limestone. Even smoother, more tannic and more floral than the Johannisberg.

2006 Goldberg - the prime property, also dominated by schist. Nose of flint, sparks and flowers, very fine on the palate, plenty of spice (allegedly from the soil, not from the old Austrian oak barriques in which this is aged.)



Weinbau Uwe Schiefer - what can I say, even though the tasting was three hours long, and there were only 6 producers, and maybe 30 attendees, we basically ran out of time, didn’t get to taste all of Schiefer’s wines, and missed out on Dorli Muhr entirely (seems this was a mistake – her ex-husband but still wine-making partner is Dirk Niepoort of port fame, and one influence is that they still crush whole clusters by foot!) Such was the intimacy of this event, that we could sample and speak to the winemakers at leisure. Wonderful!

2008 Grüner Veltliner Tschaterberg - smoky, good acidity upfront, weirdly tropical notes to go with the salad greens, and a soft finish. Eh.

2008 Konigsberg - this gets 12 months of oak barrique treatment, but doesn’t show it, instead lots of minerals and dark brooding fruit. A bigger wine than most of the others I’d say.

All in all, a great little event, got to meet some very interesting people doing wonderful things with this grape, just a superb way to spend Friday afternoon! Of course, all that drinking helps work up an appetite, so after a quick stop at Sakaya to see Rick and Hiroko, and to sample Shirataki's Jukusei no Jozen Mizunogotoshi Junmai Ginjo (you may recall hat I've been roundly invited to visit the brewery the next time I'm in Echigo), R. and I proceeded to Hearth to meet Paul Grieco, as I’d promised to open a bottle of the 1995 Chateau Musar Rose for him.

Reflecting on my recent tasting of this wine, in our enthusiasm to try tons of great wines, I wonder if we did justice to any of the wines – no regrets, of course, but spending an entire meal with this wine was illuminating – again that familiar Musar Rouge nose, but then on the palate, like a rose but not – cunning acidity, but so much more body and personality than any typical rose. Jared, behind the bar, suggested the R. López de Heredia Tondonia Rosado as a comparator, but as we now know, these are wines of vastly different stripes. So, a singular wine. Went tremendously with my dinner of...

...ribollita, ...

...pumpkin tortelli and...

...congilio (rabbit) stew with olives over polenta. And for dessert, R.'s favorite, panna cotta. Sorry, no photo... R. knocked out hers (and mine) at record pace. <img alt="tasting" border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_9T848u4wxrU/S1OxEnTANaI/AAAAAAAAAxg/7Pwp3mCIt6U/s400/IMAG0178.jpg" style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;"><br />On Friday, R. and I attended a wonderful tasting of blaufränkisch wines, hosted by <a href="http://www.winemonger.com/" target="_blank">Winemonger</a> and the <a href="http://www.acfny.org/" target="_blank">Austrian Cultural Forum</a>. Two of our favorite producers were going to be there, Roland Velich of Moric, and Josef Umathum, so we could hardly pass up the chance. What we learned is that there is clearly a movement afoot to elevate blaufränkisch from the murky, fruit-forward and hyper-tannic style of old into wines that are crystalline and aspirational<span class="fullpost">.<br /><br />The venue: the <a href="http://www.acfny.org/" target="_blank">Austrian Cultural Forum</a>. If not the skinniest building in Manhattan, it must be close. <br /><br />The crowd: 6 producers, and about 30 guests, writers and buyers and critics for the most part, a lively group, including David Schildneckt, with whom we had an enlightening conversation about some of Austria's even more obscure varietals.<br /><br />Onwards. Nota bene: most of the wines were blaufränkisch, but there were a couple of other wines being poured as well.<br /><br /><img alt="Moric" border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_9T848u4wxrU/S1OxFUd4OxI/AAAAAAAAAx4/PPoYwRs6kLw/s400/IMAG0175.jpg" style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 300px; height: 400px;"><br /><b><a href="http://moric.at/" target="_blank">Moric</a></b> - this was a real treat, as R. and I are big fans of these wines. Apart from discussing the topography and chemistry of the various vineyards, we also spoke a little of his other projects, particularly his Grüner Veltliner... I am now chasing this down, it seems to be not impossible. In the course of that conversation, he noted that while Brundlmayer may be producing some red wines in the Kamptal, it isn't very common. In contrast, Grüner Veltliner has "historically" been the most common varietal planted in all parts of Austria - it's more that it has fallen by the wayside in Burgenland. Interesting... on to the blue... these wines were great, benchmark stuff. All unfiltered, unfined, elevage in 500 liter casks.<br /><br /><b>2008 Blaufränkisch</b> - translucent, bright, fresh, but raw. Past releases indicate that this will settle hard, but in a very good way.<br /><br /><b>2007 Moric</b> - This replaces the previous "village" releases in the middle of the range, and is instead a blend of grapes from the various Neckenmarkt (80%) and Lutzmannsberg vineyards. Spicy, but refined, restrained nose. Lots of oak showing at the moment, but again, past history favours the evolution of this wine.<br /><br /><b>2007 Sankt Georgen</b> - a newer property, about 50km from Neckenmarkt, Moric's only single vineyard wine. Soil marked by more schist. Heather, herbs, dry, twiggy, tannic, but bright and still showing balance.<br /><br /><b>2007 Lutzmannsberg Alte Reben</b> - if I remember correctly, these parcels are on a plateau, in poor sandy clay soils. Exuberant, creamy nose, mineral, lots of depth.<br /><br /><b>2007 Neckenmarkt Alte Reben</b> - nine hillside parcels, mostly limestone and slate, this wine is somewhere in between the Lutzmannsberg and the Sankt Georgen, combining the essentials of both wines. Lovely, and still my favorite property.<br /><br /><b>2007 Jagini</b> - a joint venture (didn't catch the name of the partner), grown in Zagersdorf (again, relatively remote from the other properties.) A brighter, simpler style blaufränkisch. Less raw than the entry-level Moric wine, but simpler too.<br /><br />As an aside, seems Eric Asimov was at the “journalists’ luncheon” held before the tasting, and <a href=”http://thepour.blogs.nytimes.com/2010/01/15/blaufrankisch-reveals-itself/” target=”_blank”>was similarly taken</a> with the step-change improvement in quality. Note the comment by Stephen Bitterolf from Crush:<br /><br /><i>Roland suggests an interesting matrix when trying to describe traditional Blaufränkisch. Make a triangle with Nebbiolo on one point, Burgundian Pinot Noir on the other and the Rhône (I think Northern Rhône) on the final point. In the middle, with attributes suggestive of all three, is Blaufränkisch.</i><br /><br /><br /><br /><img alt="Umathum" border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_9T848u4wxrU/S1OxFKdUszI/AAAAAAAAAxw/wd3YcL-PtBU/s400/IMAG0177.jpg" style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 300px; height: 400px;"><br /><b><a href="http://www.umathum.at/" target="_blank">Weingut Umathum</a></b> - another favorite producer of ours, we don't often get to drink his wines outside of Austria, but I know it's available in the U.S. Very nice to meet the man - when told that we were introduced to his wines by Viennese friends, he - and we - wondered why they never took us down to Burgenland to visit? Why indeed? One interesting bit of conversation concerned the use of Acacia barrels. Apparently, this became most prevalent after WWII, when oak was in limited supply. More interestingly though, Josef told the story of how the acacia became widespread in Europe. As the story went, Louis XIII somehow wanted to plant some acacia (from Africa?) at Versailles. Chronologically, this <i>might</i> be problematic, as XIII pre-dates Linnaean identification of the tree by a couple of centuries, but never mind. Maybe he just liked the pretty, un-named tree. Well, acacia turns out to be a bit of a weed, and self-propogated all across continental Europe, and so, it was widely available. Good story, no? Josef confirmed my thought that this wood lends a honeyed note, especially to white wines. He added though that he had stopped using acacia barrels several years ago, and had in fact sold off the last remaining one at his property in 2006. (That doesn't mean it is completely out of use, just not at Umathum.)<br /><br /><b>2008 Traminer</b> - a cuvee of yellow and red traminer, with a strongly gewurtz-like tropical nose, but a fascinatingly dry palate. Well-played.<br /><br /><b>2008 Blaufrankisch</b> - Umathum’s entry level product, very mineral driven, satisfying.<br /><br /><b>2007 Joiser Kirschgarten</b> - a single vineyard wine, dark chocolate and cherry liqueur, a little aggressive right now.<br /><br /><b>2006 Joiser Kirschgarten</b> - the oak was relatively prominent on the nose, less so on the palate, where schist and cherries were the theme. Herr Umathum expects this to be a GREAT wine, and for ’06 to be a long-lived vintage.<br /><br /><b>2004 Joiser Kirschgarten</b> - Much more elegant, absolutely singing. Like all the other blaus, clear ruby red, I presume this bodes well for the younger wines.<br /><br /><b>2002 Vom Stein Sankt Laurent</b> - very restrained and mineral driven, not particularly wild or spicy… I wonder if this is an anomaly? Schildnekt has lots to say on the subject, so I encouraged him to put together a Saint Laurent tasting such as this one.<br /><br /><br /><br /><b><a href=”http://www.paul-achs.at” target=”_blank”>Weingut Paul Achs</a></b> - a first time producer for us to try. We had an interesting conversation about the evolution of blaufränkisch over the past 10-15 years. Just that recently, every blaufränkisch you could find was opaque, tannic nearly to the point of roughness, and purple if not inkily so. The handful of wines that didn’t fit this description seemed to reside only in the private cellars of forward-thinking enthusiasts. Whereas now, we saw a variety of more nuanced and balanced wines. I also got to pick Paul’s brain on Pinot Noir and its mad relative, Saint Laurent. It was his opinion that all else being equal, in Austria, Pinot Noir is the more simple, fruity wine, whereas Saint Laurent brings the spice. Now, I’ve definitely had wilder examples of Pinot Noir from Styria, but in my limited experience, the description makes sense.<br /><br /><b>2007 Pannobile Chardonnay</b> - very green nose, oak is noticeable. Palate is bright, lucious and rich. Actually does remind me of the Velich chardonnays, but not as complex. Still not my cup of wine.<br /><br /><b>2008 Heideboden</b> - a vineyard dominated by gravel and humus, though the wine seems to reject these conditions, and is instead quite simple, bright and fruity, though still nicely dry.<br /><br /><b>2007 Altenberg</b> - sandy soil mixed with humus and loam, ideal terroir for blaufränkisch, so sayeth Paul. The upper slope of this vineyard is cooler, and thus planted with Saint Laurent, while the lower slope is planted with blaufränkisch. Floral and perfumed, rich, almost creamy, quite intoxicating, yet maintaining lightness and balance.<br /><br /><b>2007 Ungerberg</b> - similar soil composition to the Altenberg, but a lighter, more elegant wine, spicy, herbal, very balanced. Delicious!<br /><br /><b>2009 Altenberg</b> (barrel sample) - very purple, completely opaque! This is just post-malolactic fermentation, post-malo, very lively, but not just grape must. Paul says that the colour will change soon and become clear and light like the others.<br /><br /><br /><br /><img alt="Prieler" border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_9T848u4wxrU/S1OxEz2Oz8I/AAAAAAAAAxo/4wK6KBLLODU/s400/IMAG0179.jpg" style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 300px; height: 400px;"><br /><b><a href=”http://www.prieler.at” target=”_blank”>Weingut Prieler</a></b> - head oenologist, Silvia… Dr. Prieler to you… doctorate in microbiology… Anyways, our first Prielers, not our last. Ms. Prieler likes tea, so we've promised some Malaysian Boh... barter away!<br /><br /><b>2008 Pinot Blanc</b> spends extended time on the lees. Off dry, apple-driven but crisp enough to be refreshing.<br /><br /><b>2007 Johannisberg</b> - clay and red pebbles dominate this vineyard. Savoury nose of smoke and hard cheese. Smooth on the palate, very mineral driven.<br /><br /><b>2007 Leithaberg</b> - a hillside property comprised of schist and limestone. Even smoother, more tannic and more floral than the Johannisberg.<br /><br /><b>2006 Goldberg</b> - the prime property, also dominated by schist. Nose of flint, sparks and flowers, very fine on the palate, plenty of spice (allegedly from the soil, not from the old Austrian oak barriques in which this is aged.)<br /><br /><br /><br /><b><a href=”http://www.weinbau-schiefer.at/” target=”_blank”>Weinbau Uwe Schiefer</a></b> - what can I say, even though the tasting was three hours long, and there were only 6 producers, and maybe 30 attendees, we basically ran out of time, didn’t get to taste all of Schiefer’s wines, and missed out on Dorli Muhr entirely (seems this was a mistake – her ex-husband but still wine-making partner is Dirk Niepoort of port fame, and one influence is that they still crush whole clusters by foot!) Such was the intimacy of this event, that we could sample and speak to the winemakers at leisure. Wonderful!<br /><br /><b>2008 Grüner Veltliner Tschaterberg</b> - smoky, good acidity upfront, weirdly tropical notes to go with the salad greens, and a soft finish. Eh.<br /><br /><b>2008 Konigsberg</b> - this gets 12 months of oak barrique treatment, but doesn’t show it, instead lots of minerals and dark brooding fruit. A bigger wine than most of the others I’d say. <br /><br />All in all, a great little event, got to meet some very interesting people doing wonderful things with this grape, just a superb way to spend Friday afternoon! Of course, all that drinking helps work up an appetite, so after a quick stop at <a href=”http://www.sakayanyc” target=”_blank”>Sakaya</a> to see Rick and Hiroko, and to sample Shirataki's <i>Jukusei no Jozen Mizunogotoshi Junmai Ginjo</i> (you may recall hat I've been roundly invited to visit the brewery the <i>next</i> time I'm in Echigo), R. and I proceeded to <a href="http://www.restauranthearth.com/" target="_blank">Hearth</a> to meet Paul Grieco, as I’d promised to open a bottle of the 1995 Chateau Musar Rose for him. <br /><br />Reflecting on <a href="http://www.jumanaidjimidjango.com/2009/12/desert-protocol-ii-atlas-shrugged.html">my recent tasting of this wine</a>, in our enthusiasm to try tons of great wines, I wonder if we did justice to <i>any</i> of the wines – no regrets, of course, but spending an entire meal with this wine was illuminating – again that familiar Musar Rouge nose, but then on the palate, like a rose but not – cunning acidity, but so much more body and personality than any typical rose. Jared, behind the bar, suggested the R. López de Heredia Tondonia Rosado as a comparator, but as we now know, these are wines of vastly different stripes. So, a singular wine. Went tremendously with my dinner of...<br /><br /><img alt="ribollita" border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_9T848u4wxrU/S1fM_y0Oj2I/AAAAAAAAAyo/jFs5G-gEomA/s400/IMGP1366.JPG" style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;">...<i>ribollita</i>, ...<br /><br /><img alt="tortelli" border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_9T848u4wxrU/S1fNAettFcI/AAAAAAAAAyw/er57ew1luvw/s400/IMGP1369.JPG" style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;">...pumpkin tortelli and... <br /><br /><img alt="coniglio" border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_9T848u4wxrU/S1fNAos2g9I/AAAAAAAAAy4/uNlFolJHSXQ/s400/IMGP1370.JPG" style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;">...<i>congilio</i> (rabbit) stew with olives over polenta. And for dessert, R.'s favorite, <i>panna cotta</i>. Sorry, no photo... R. knocked out hers (and mine) at record pace.</span>

Kikusui Junmai [1 Koku - 39]

Located in Echigo, Niigata Prefecture, Kikusui is a moderately sized brewery (some 140 employees) founded in 1881. The name, translated as chrysanthemum water, was apparently inspired by a Noh song, Kikujidou, in which the water of the chrysanthemum was considered to bring about longevity and "perpetual youth." So there you have it... Ponce de Leon had it all wrong... it wasn't some babbling brook in Florida, it was a bottle of sake from the Japanese Alps. I can buy that.

Kikusui's Junmai is made from Gohyakumangoku milled to 70%, SMV +1, acidity 1.6, and 15% abv. According to Kikusui, this is their "standard" sake, "designed to compliment (sic) your every day meal." Mild, sweet nose, full-bodied, but drying and clean, with a faint flavour of marshmallow, followed by a clean yet rich finish. Tasty, but funnily, I think time hasn't stopped. Unlike for some.

Pay close attention to the end of the match. Homasho may have been beaten by Shimotori, but he wasn't the real loser:




And while we're on about the sumo, a fond farewell to Chiyotaikai. <img alt="kikusui junmai" border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_9T848u4wxrU/S0zJrpjbZqI/AAAAAAAAAxY/dL3XB2gpa90/s400/IMGP2823.JPG" style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 300px; height: 400px;"><br />Located in Echigo, Niigata Prefecture, Kikusui is a moderately sized brewery (some 140 employees) founded in 1881. The name, translated as chrysanthemum water, was apparently inspired by a Noh song, Kikujidou, in which the water of the chrysanthemum was considered to bring about longevity and "perpetual youth." So there you have it... Ponce de Leon had it all wrong... it wasn't some babbling brook in Florida, it was a bottle of sake from the Japanese Alps. I can buy that.<br /><br />Kikusui's <a href="http://www.kikusui-sake.com/home/syohin_0006.html<br />" target="_blank">Junmai</a> is made from <i>Gohyakumangoku</i> milled to 70%, SMV +1, acidity 1.6, and 15% abv. <a href="http://www.kikusui-sake.com/home/__english/sake-info/junmaisyu.html<br />" target="_blank">According to Kikusui</a>, this is their "standard" sake, "<i>designed to compliment </i>(sic)<i> your every day meal</i>." Mild, sweet nose, full-bodied, but drying and clean, with a faint flavour of marshmallow, followed by a clean yet rich finish. Tasty, but funnily, I think time hasn't stopped. Unlike for some<span class="fullpost">.<br /><br />Pay close attention to the end of the match. Homasho may have been beaten by Shimotori, but he wasn't the real loser:<br /><br /><iframe allowfullscreen="allowfullscreen" class="b-hbp-video b-uploaded" frameborder="0" height="266" id="BLOGGER-video-b5ab059bcd11526a-3140" mozallowfullscreen="mozallowfullscreen" src="https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dyHNBWmgyhxlbuFQcPvaZ05-Y-J-Qo91kGZS0ZPM06V5f3dQCZiB9ZvyoP4vDQJa5hsNSKNTTLayTSB0ySZwGVxFfySCWg1gIpRYbSUfO4KobRrKsBtZZev7UW3QMvQN4RA_94" webkitallowfullscreen="webkitallowfullscreen" width="320"></iframe><br /><br /><br />And while we're on about the sumo, a fond farewell to Chiyotaikai.</span>

Schloss Eggenberg's Samichlaus

These two beauties from Austria's Schloss Eggenberg ring the bell at 14% abv, so not your standard pours. My first experience with the Samichlaus Bier was in February of 2008, after a good day of skiing in Quebec's Mont Tremblant. Quite an experience. Brewed once a year, in December, and aged for 10 months before bottling, I had read that this is a good candidate for cellaring, so I laid in a case of the 2007 bottling (so, brewed in 2006.) Then, recently, I saw the 2007 Samichlaus Helles, similarly brewed and aged, but for the first time since 1986. I had no choice but to do a side-by-side.

Samichlaus Bier: Clear amber, still. Nose is much milder than expected based on prior tastings. On the palate, sweet, but not as thick or sticky as before, honeyed, caramel, toffee, and maple, but nice brightness, smooth, alcohol much receded, even at room temperature. Even more dangerous than a year ago.

Samichlaus Helles: More of a golden orange, tiny bit of head disappears quickly, followed by very fine perlage. Orange peel and mulled spice on the nose, chocolate and maple syrup, dried fruits. Sweeter, stickier, and more fruit than the SB, very smooth, with a little bit of a bite at the finish, but more heat as well.

Note that both labels say "Malt Liquor", but while the SB label states "The World's Most Extraordinary Beer", the Helles says "The World's Most Extraordinary Beverage." What does it all mean??? Don't know, but what about the verdict? I'm clearly preferring the SB to the SH. Both of these are dessert-style sippers, to be shared, but the Helles comes across as just a bit too medicinal for me to really get into. The Bier? Yum! <img alt="samichlaus" border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_9T848u4wxrU/S0oyHE9O6lI/AAAAAAAAAxQ/K9LDgjlNnE0/s400/IMGP2804.JPG" style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;"><br />These two beauties from Austria's <a href="http://www.schloss-eggenberg.at/site/en_geschichte.asp?id=71<br />" target="_blank">Schloss Eggenberg</a> ring the bell at 14% abv, so not your standard pours. My first experience with the Samichlaus Bier was in <a href="http://www.jumanaidjimidjango.com/2008/02/schloss-eggenburg-samichlaus-bier.html" target="_blank">February of 2008</a>, after a good day of skiing in Quebec's <a href="http://www.jumanaidjimidjango.com/2008/03/skiing-mont-tremblant.html" target="_blank">Mont Tremblant</a>. Quite an experience. Brewed once a year, in December, and aged for 10 months before bottling, I had read that this is a good candidate for cellaring, so I laid in a case of the 2007 bottling (so, brewed in 2006.) Then, recently, I saw the 2007 Samichlaus Helles, similarly brewed and aged, but for the first time since 1986. I had no choice but to do a side-by-side<span class="fullpost">.<br /><br /><b>Samichlaus Bier</b>: Clear amber, still. Nose is much milder than expected based on prior tastings. On the palate, sweet, but not as thick or sticky as before, honeyed, caramel, toffee, and maple, but nice brightness, smooth, alcohol much receded, even at room temperature. Even more dangerous than a year ago.<br /><br /><b>Samichlaus Helles</b>: More of a golden orange, tiny bit of head disappears quickly, followed by very fine perlage. Orange peel and mulled spice on the nose, chocolate and maple syrup, dried fruits. Sweeter, stickier, and more fruit than the SB, very smooth, with a little bit of a bite at the finish, but more heat as well. <br /><br />Note that both labels say "Malt Liquor", but while the SB label states "The World's Most Extraordinary Beer", the Helles says "The World's Most Extraordinary Beverage." What does it all mean??? Don't know, but what about the verdict? I'm clearly preferring the SB to the SH. Both of these are dessert-style sippers, to be shared, but the Helles comes across as just a bit too medicinal for me to really get into. The Bier? Yum!</span>

Kakujo Junmai Ginjo [1 Koku - 40]

"Castle of the Cranes" from Ōita Prefecture's Bungo Meijyo Shuzo, nestled in the hills of Saiki city's Naokawa village. A relatively young brewery, turning 100 this year, and seems to be more famous for its shochu. From what little I can glean from their website, there appears to have been some concern about a past connection between Bungo Meijyo and Mikasa Foods, the company at the heart of the tainted rice scandal that brought down Bishonen. A press release on their website (from 2008, so this is old news, but news to me) indicates that the origin of all rice used at the brewery has been accounted for and that there is no concern over contamination. So there you go.

I can tell you that this sake was more than fine. Yamada Nishiki milled to 58%, SMV 2.5, acidity 1.8, amino acidity 1.8, KA-1 yeast (#9 family) and 15.5% abv. At room temperature, light but sweet aroma, soft, cool and creamy entry, followed by a flash of nuttiness and wood spice, before the acidity just takes over on clean-up duty, leaving a faintly marine savouriness on the palate. All much cleaner when chilled, and I'd be happy to drag a bottle of this into any Beppu onsen you care to direct me to. Instead, it's a Japanese sports day on Japan TV, started with some domestic rugby, followed by the collegiate Hakone road race (talk about dramatic, when the boys collapse at the relay point), and the opening of the January sumo tournament later on this evening (DVR'd). <img alt="kakujo junmai ginjo" border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_9T848u4wxrU/S0ovG8cCimI/AAAAAAAAAxI/5Zt2kJ0JIxg/s400/IMGP2794.JPG" style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 300px; height: 400px;"><br />"Castle of the Cranes" from Ōita Prefecture's <a href="http://www.bungomeijyo.co.jp/" target="_blank">Bungo Meijyo Shuzo</a>, nestled in the hills of Saiki city's Naokawa village. A relatively young brewery, turning 100 this year, and seems to be more famous for its shochu. From what little I can glean from their website, there appears to have been some concern about a past connection between Bungo Meijyo and Mikasa Foods, the company at the heart of the <a href="http://www.timesonline.co.uk/tol/life_and_style/food_and_drink/article4753698.ece" target="_blank">tainted rice scandal</a> that brought down <a href="http://search.japantimes.co.jp/cgi-bin/nn20090602f1.html" target="_blank">Bishonen</a>. A press release on their website (from 2008, so this is old news, but news to me) indicates that the origin of all rice used at the brewery has been accounted for and that there is no concern over contamination. So there you go.<br /><br />I can tell you that <i>this</i> sake was more than fine. Yamada Nishiki milled to 58%, SMV 2.5, acidity 1.8, amino acidity 1.8, KA-1 yeast (#9 family) and 15.5% abv. At room temperature, light but sweet aroma, soft, cool and creamy entry, followed by a flash of nuttiness and wood spice, before the acidity just takes over on clean-up duty, leaving a faintly marine savouriness on the palate. All much cleaner when chilled, and I'd be happy to drag a bottle of this into any <a href="http://www.jnto.go.jp/eng/location/regional/oita/beppu.html" target="_blank">Beppu <i>onsen</i></a> you care to direct me to. Instead, it's a Japanese sports day on Japan TV, started with some domestic rugby, followed by the collegiate Hakone road race (talk about dramatic, when the boys collapse at the relay point), and the opening of the January sumo tournament later on this evening (DVR'd).

Du Minot Brut

From our quick visit to Quebec, some local sparkling cider from Cidrerie du Minot. Cidrified from McIntosh, Lobo, Cortland, and Empire apples (hmm... very New York, eh?), tank fermented, aged on the lees, no dosage, naturally sparkling, and 7% abv. Light, light sparkling, very comforting nose for a cold winter, all apple crumble/apple tart, butter-sautéed Bosc pears, with touches of vanilla and a certain yeastiness. Taste is very light, off-dry, only slightest hint of scrumpy funk, and more apple crumble/apple tart. Tasty and happy-making, but sweet enough that I'm good for no more than a glass. <img alt="Cidrerie du Minot" border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_9T848u4wxrU/S0bDSCZf06I/AAAAAAAAAxA/mQxdPZdf604/s400/IMGP2793.JPG" style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 300px; height: 400px;"><br />From our quick visit to Quebec, some local sparkling cider from <a href="http://www.duminot.com" target="_blank">Cidrerie du Minot</a>. <i>Cidrified</i> from McIntosh, Lobo, Cortland, and Empire apples (<i>hmm... very New York, eh?</i>), tank fermented, aged on the lees, no dosage, naturally sparkling, and 7% abv. Light, light sparkling, very comforting nose for a cold winter, all apple crumble/apple tart, butter-sautéed Bosc pears, with touches of vanilla and a certain yeastiness. Taste is very light, off-dry, only slightest hint of scrumpy funk, and more apple crumble/apple tart. Tasty and happy-making, but sweet enough that I'm good for no more than a glass.

Takaisami Tokubetsu Junmai [1 Koku - 41]

Takaisami Tokubetsu Junmai from Tottori Prefecture's Otani Shuzo, brewed from the waters of Daisen, which from certain perspectives bears a striking resemblance to Mt. Fuji, with high conic symmetry. Other directions? Not so much.

Yamada Nishiki and Tamasakae milled to 50%, SMV +3, acidity 1.5, #9 yeast, and 15.5% abv. Nose is very clean, with faint rice and melon aromas. On the palate, this enters rich, soft, and full-bodied, toast and butterscotch notes, but transitioning over the mid to something much more mineral-driven, very nice acidity and a cleansing, almost sharp finish. Very tasty. <img alt="takaisami tokubetsu junmai" border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_9T848u4wxrU/S0Z31cZSvrI/AAAAAAAAAw4/AwK4aldR39s/s400/IMGP2769.JPG" style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;"><br />Takaisami Tokubetsu Junmai from Tottori Prefecture's Otani Shuzo, brewed from the waters of Daisen, which from certain perspectives bears a striking resemblance to Mt. Fuji, with high conic symmetry. Other directions? Not so much.<br /><br />Yamada Nishiki and Tamasakae milled to 50%, SMV +3, acidity 1.5, #9 yeast, and 15.5% abv. Nose is very clean, with faint rice and melon aromas. On the palate, this enters rich, soft, and full-bodied, toast and butterscotch notes, but transitioning over the mid to something much more mineral-driven, very nice acidity and a cleansing, almost sharp finish. Very tasty.

Nøgne Ø Peculiar Yule

Somehow got backlogged on the Christmas beers, so have some catching up to do. Starting with Nøgne Ø's gløgg inspired Peculiar Yule (15°P, 30 IBU, 6.5% abv). Very aromatic, you smell it immediately, mincemeat with, yes, more spruce and pine. On the palate, this tastes a lot, a lot, a lot like Soreen Maltloaf - malty raisinbread, but relatively dry and slate-y, not at all heavy or cloying. Light to mid-weight body, with a pronounced spiced/spruce/pine finsh and after-taste. It tastes like it should be much heavier and sweeter than it is, which is very nice. <img alt="Nogne O Peculiar Yule" border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_9T848u4wxrU/S0Zz_50wcRI/AAAAAAAAAww/DHj7wgrbaEg/s400/IMGP2790.JPG" style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;"><br />Somehow got backlogged on the Christmas beers, so have some catching up to do. Starting with Nøgne Ø's gløgg inspired Peculiar Yule (15°P, 30 IBU, 6.5% abv). Very aromatic, you smell it immediately, mincemeat with, yes, more spruce and pine. On the palate, this tastes a lot, a lot, a lot like <a href="http://www.soreen.com/" target="_blank">Soreen Maltloaf</a> - malty raisinbread, but relatively dry and slate-y, not at all heavy or cloying. Light to mid-weight body, with a pronounced spiced/spruce/pine finsh and after-taste. It tastes like it should be much heavier and sweeter than it is, which is very nice.

Russian Treasure

Argentine wines have not been a sweet-spot for me, and I can't remember the last time I had a 100% Cabernet Sauvignon, so this seems a very odd choice. More than it even appears.


Clearly, this wine has made the rounds - Mendoza to Moscow to Manhattan to my house. And the verdict? It's musty and tired, not terrible, just not terribly interesting. It's a much better story than anything else. <img alt="Tesoro" border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_9T848u4wxrU/S0LMz4PnevI/AAAAAAAAAwg/x4oL_Si1qoI/s400/IMGP2762.JPG" style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 300px; height: 400px;"><br />Argentine wines have not been a sweet-spot for me, and I can't remember the last time I had a 100% Cabernet Sauvignon, so this seems a very odd choice. More than it even appears<span class="fullpost">.<br /><br /><img alt="in russian" border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_9T848u4wxrU/S0LM0VMqaoI/AAAAAAAAAwo/DZOF0QbBqgE/s400/IMGP2763.JPG" style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 300px; height: 400px;"><br />Clearly, this wine has made the rounds - Mendoza to Moscow to Manhattan to my house. And the verdict? It's musty and tired, not terrible, just not terribly interesting. It's a much better story than anything else.</span>

Nøgne Ø Toshi Double IPA

Toshi (19°P, 100 IBU, 8% abv ) - a double IPA brewed in collaboration with Toshi Ishii of Nagano's Yo-Ho Brewing. Since 100 is the resolution limit of the IBU scale, this was a wee bit daunting, even for a bitters fan such as I am. Tremendously lacy head - the picture shows it much reduced, in fact - and fairly cloudy. Nose was bright and hoppy, some greenness, pine and heather. On the palate, I was surprised by the malted character, smooth, with hints of chocolate, caramel, and buttercream, to go along with the citrusy hops - really, not all that bitter, not heavy either. Just well balanced. I'm not the biggest fan of IPAs and the ilk, but this was very pleasant indeed, with a long, minty/pine finish and aftertaste. Or maybe this wasn't very IPA-like? <img alt="Nogne O Toshi Double IPA" border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_9T848u4wxrU/S0LEcsQoerI/AAAAAAAAAwY/Ltf6G1UVpI0/s400/IMGP2751.JPG" style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;"><br />Toshi (19°P, 100 IBU, 8% abv ) - a double IPA brewed in collaboration with Toshi Ishii of Nagano's Yo-Ho Brewing. Since 100 is the resolution limit of the IBU scale, this was a wee bit daunting, even for a bitters fan such as I am. Tremendously lacy head - the picture shows it much reduced, in fact - and fairly cloudy. Nose was bright and hoppy, some greenness, pine and heather. On the palate, I was surprised by the malted character, smooth, with hints of chocolate, caramel, and buttercream, to go along with the citrusy hops - really, not all that bitter, not heavy either. Just well balanced. I'm not the biggest fan of IPAs and the ilk, but this was very pleasant indeed, with a long, minty/pine finish and aftertaste. Or maybe this wasn't very IPA-like?

2003 Cédric Flaction Humagne Rouge

We don't get much access to Swiss wine in "these parts", so this wine was most welcome. 2003 Cédric Flaction Humagne Rouge (12.5% abv) from Sion, Canton Valois, in the southwest of Switzerland. Darkish red, but translucent, aroma of berries with herbal/humus notes. On the palate, not particularly tannic, mineral driven, blackberries and floral highlights. Modest acidity, could have used a touch more, but overall, pretty tasty. <img alt="Cedric Flaction" border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_9T848u4wxrU/S0Fa1ldtTWI/AAAAAAAAAvw/eBv0UWNSvIs/s400/IMGP2736.JPG" style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 300px; height: 400px;"><br />We don't get much access to Swiss wine in "these parts", so this wine was most welcome. 2003 <a href="http://www.flaction.ch/" target="_blank">Cédric Flaction</a> Humagne Rouge (12.5% abv) from Sion, Canton Valois, in the southwest of Switzerland. Darkish red, but translucent, aroma of berries with herbal/humus notes. On the palate, not particularly tannic, mineral driven, blackberries and floral highlights. Modest acidity, could have used a touch more, but overall, pretty tasty.

Tamanohikari Tokusen Junmai Ginjo [1 Koku - 42]

Kyoto Prefecture's Tamanohikari - not the oldest brewery, not quite 340 years old - produces only junmai ginjo and junmai daiginjo sake, and is primarily responsible for the revival of the Omachi varietal of rice. It's also one of the first breweries my sake mentor introduced me to, and the owner of my favorite izakaya, buried in the bowels of Tokyo Station - even Japanese friends who I have taken there have been mightily impressed by the quality of the food there. A must stop for me.

Thus, it seemed appropriate to start the New Year off with this. Tamanohikari Tokusen Junmai Ginjo. Yamada Nishiki milled to 60%, SMV +3, acidity 1.8, amino acidity 1.5, 901 yeast, and 15.6% abv. Clean, sweet, melony nose. The palate is a good representation of Fushimi's excellent springwater and soft, feminine style - rich, round, sweet, but transitioning to a more mineral driven draught, finishing with good acidity and bitter/melon rinds, followed by a long, pleasant, nutty and fruity after-taste. <img alt="tamanohikari tokusen junmai ginjo" border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_9T848u4wxrU/S0FbmzJJdDI/AAAAAAAAAv4/PJ4uQ0axksg/s400/IMGP2742.JPG" style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;"><br />Kyoto Prefecture's Tamanohikari - not the oldest brewery, not quite 340 years old - produces only junmai ginjo and junmai daiginjo sake, and is primarily responsible for the revival of the Omachi varietal of rice. It's also one of the first breweries my sake mentor introduced me to, and the owner of my favorite <i>izakaya</i>, buried in the bowels of Tokyo Station - even Japanese friends who I have taken there have been mightily impressed by the quality of the food there. A must stop for me. <br /><br />Thus, it seemed appropriate to start the New Year off with this. <a href="http://www.tamanohikari.co.jp/" target="_blank">Tamanohikari</a> Tokusen Junmai Ginjo. Yamada Nishiki milled to 60%, SMV +3, acidity 1.8, amino acidity 1.5, 901 yeast, and 15.6% abv. Clean, sweet, melony nose. The palate is a good representation of Fushimi's excellent springwater and soft, feminine style - rich, round, sweet, but transitioning to a more mineral driven draught, finishing with good acidity and bitter/melon rinds, followed by a long, pleasant, nutty and fruity after-taste.