Tuesday, December 29, 2009

Old Monk Very Old Vatted Rum

Old Monk Rum
This INDIAN, 7 year old blended rum is butterscotch, vanilla, and caramel all over, rather than the darker treacle and molasses bitterness. Smooth, viscous, and rich, light fruitiness on the long, gentle finish. Hands down the best spirit India has to offer, my favorite dark rum for mixing with coke (maybe Gosling's Black Seal is close), but also very sippable, the perfect winter warmer, but with the 43% abv well hidden. Have never been certain of what the XXX is all about, but proceed with caution.

Apparently, now available in California!!! Ahnold's Stroh better watch out.

Sunday, December 27, 2009

Sabrage


Impressed my woman (easily impressed, I see.)

sabrage

Bière de Vigne

Brasserie Breughel Bière de Vigne
Brasserie Breughel Bière de Vigne (Québec) - a very strange concoction - 90% grape must, with barley malt, fermented with a beer yeast. Perhaps unsurprisingly, the few reviews on ratebeer are highly unfavourable, though I think that a bit unfair, for this is really not beer as we know it, nor is it really wine, as we know it. It's a chimaera, and a weird one at that. A vivid crimson-esque colour, lightly carbonated, quite dry, with some lambic-like qualities, fruit yes, but no sweetness, some geuze-like qualities, but no sourness or real funk. Maybe this is like lambrusco in the hands of a Donati or Corneliessen? I merely offer conjecture. Anyways, Arcimboldo on the label... nice touch. Not very Breughel though...

Thursday, December 24, 2009

Rogue Santa's Private Reserve

Rogue Santa's Private Reserve

Rogue Santa's Private Reserve - poured cloudy amber - no abv listed on the bottle, which worried me, but looking it up, only 6%. Phew. Smells minty, with orange peels and a hint of chocolate... like mulled wine crossed with a "grasshopper." Tastes of pine needles, pinecones, bark, orange peel again, mulled wine with NO sugar, cloves, cinnamon, faint mango/papaya/banana sweetness, very delicious bitters. Yum.


Oh yeah... and that Santa fellow... he's from Jalandhar...


Dewatsuru Kimoto Junmai [1 Koku - 43]

Dewatsuru
Dewatsuru Kimoto Junmai from Akita Seishu, also producers of the Kariho line. These two English websites, by the way, only list a small portion of their output, but even this particular sake is only listed on the Japanese language site.

Miyamanishiki and the local Menkoina rice, milled to 60%, SMV +3, acidity 1.6, and 14.5% abv. Light but creamy-sweet nose. Paradoxically rich and full-flavoured - a little earthy, with caramels and chocolate initially, yet clean and cleansing, with nice mineral waters and a very very late prickling of bitters and acidity. The longer you wait, the cleaner the finish gets, with an all over sparkle and even later on, some sweet musky melon. Full-flavoured, so it's hard to say if this is a product of its kimotosity or the regional style. Tasty, either way. And now, a little something, um, seasonal:



Ahhhh... Crazy Ken Band strikes again!

Tuesday, December 22, 2009

Nøgne Ø Sunturnbrew

Sunturnbrew
To kick things off, after spending a couple of hours yesterday afternoon digging out of the weekend's snowstorm, we opened the Sunturnbrew (26°P, 50 IBU, 11% abv), Nøgne Ø's tribute to the Winter Solstice. Poured flat, then put on a smallish head, before going flat again. Low carbonation, very easy drinking, no sign of heat on the palate, smooth, as J. put it, "lighter than velvet." Nice combination of chocolate/porter flavours, tasty bittersweet finish, and then a nice warming glow as it goes down. A lovely winter warmer.

Sunday, December 20, 2009

Navigating Nøgne Ø

Nogne O
Having fully enjoyed Kjetil Jikiun's Dark Horizon #2, it's clear that Grimstad, Norway's got it going on. Nøgne Ø calls itself Det Kompromissløse Bryggeri - "the uncompromising brewery," so I reckon that requires a comprehensive study of their produce. Almost comprehensive, anyways - everything I could find. Hopefully I can get to at least a couple of these per week!

From left to right:
  • Dugges Sahti (24 IBU, 11% abv) - unhopped Finnish style of beer, brewed with, amongst other things, "Sea Wormwood" and heather flowers.
  • Sunturnbrew (26°P, 50 IBU, 11% abv) - the Ø's tribute to the Winter Solstice, to be consumed tomorrow.
  • #100 (23.5°P, 80 IBU, 10% abv) - the Ø's 100th batch, in barley-wine style.
  • Imperial Stout (23°P, 75 IBU, 9% abv) - Tsarist nightcap.
  • Tiger Tripel (21°P, 35 IBU, 9% abv) - an Abbey-style Triple.
  • Special Holiday Brew (22°P, 50 IBU, 8.5% abv) - the Norwegian release of this collaborative effort between the Ø, Stone Brewing, and Jolly Pumpkin.
  • Winter Ale (19°P, 30 IBU, 8.5% abv) - a dark Christmas ale... not dark Christmas, dark ale...
  • Tyttebær (8% abv) - a joint effort with Denmark's Mikkeller, a wild yeast sour beer brewed with wild tyttebær (mountain cranberries.) Described as "feral"...
  • Toshi (19°P, 100 IBU, 8% abv ) - a double IPA brewed in collaboration with Toshi Ishii of Nagano's Yo-Ho Brewing.
  • Porter (16.5° P, 30 IBU, 7% abv) - a dark ale, recommended with cheese???
  • Brown Ale (11°P, 27 IBU, 4.5% abv) - an English 'pub-grub' style ale.
  • India Pale Ale (17.5° P, 60 IBU, 7.5% abv) - not my favorite style, but "all in the name of science..."
  • Saison (14°P, 25 IBU, 6.5% abv) - a Wallonian-styled thirst quencher.
  • Peculiar Yule (15°P, 30 IBU, 6.5% abv) - allegedly inspired by gløgg!
  • Pale Ale (14°P, 40 IBU, 6.0% abv) - they say this is their "all-rounder."

Saturday, December 19, 2009

Minenohakubai Tokubetsu Junmai [1 Koku - 44]

minenohakubai

To celebrate today's tremendous winter storm - white-out conditions if not outright blizzard - Niigata Prefecture's Minenohakubai ("White Plum Blossom") Tokubetsu Junmai, SMV +4, acidity 1.0. A suprisingly full-flavoured and rich example from this region, nutty, grainy, and broad, particularly at room temperature - though, we consumed very little of it this way... no, to the snowbank!

rittenhouse

Friday, December 18, 2009

Garyubai Junmai Ginjo [1 Koku - 45]

GaryubaiGaryubai (Dragon Shaped Plum Trees) Junmai Ginjo Namachozo Genshu, from Sanwa Shuzo in Shizuoka Prefecture. Yamada Nishiki milled to 55%, SMV +4, 16.5% abv. Brewed from an underground source of the Okitsu River, the name allegedly being inspired by a story in Luo Guanzhong's Romance of the Three Kingdoms, which, admittedly, I have not yet read.

The aroma is pronounced, musk melons, which carries over onto the palate - rich and medium bodied, sweet, clean rice flavours followed by a sharply dry, acidic and astringent finish. I'm very much preferring this at room temperature. Very flavourful, sharp and fruity. The alcohol seems rather low for a genshu sake, and the richness and dryness makes for an interesting contrast.

Shizuoka has a reputation for distinctive sake, and this certainly lives up to that. The website, while it doesn't look like much, does have a monthly newsletter going back to mid-2003 - wish I could make more sense of it.

Monday, December 14, 2009

Disgorging Movia


From last Sunday's brunch. Only after sticking it in the water did I realize I forgot to remove the wire cage. Oh well.

Sunday, December 13, 2009

Aging Sake - An Experiment

Today, I began a little experiment, to see how sake ages. The sake of choice is the Jun Tenzan Tokubetsu Junmai, produced by Saga Prefecture's Tenzan Shuzo. Unfortunately, the bottles do not have the bottling date on them, but the case appears to have been shipped recently. Will update as I can.

tenzan
Saga Saikai No. 134 milled to 60%, SMV +2, acidity 1.8, 15% abv. As a baseline note, this sake is almost paradoxically balanced, being both full and light, clean but with plenty of flavour, sweet with a sour-dry finish. In a word, satisfying.

A quick pre-experiment with an open bottle demonstrated that sake freezes readily and quickly, with a marked, deleterious change in flavour, so that result will guide the rest of the experiment. Six bottles have been placed in our refrigerator, at a constant temperature of 3°C (37.4°F). The remainder have been put into our passive cellar, in the below-ground basement of our home. The temperature there varies between 13°C (~55.4°F) in the winter and 21°C (~70°F) in the summer.

I intend to open and compare a pair of bottles according to the following schedule:

~ 15 December, 2010 (1 Year)
~ 15 December, 2011 (2 Years)
~ 15 December, 2012 (3 Years)
~ 15 December, 2014 (5 Years)
~ 15 December, 2019 (10 Years)
~ 15 December, 2029 (20 Years)

Assuming the internet is still around at each of these times, I'll post new notes.

Wednesday, December 9, 2009

Hitorimusume Sayaka Junmai [1 Koku - 46]

hitorimusume
"One and only daughter" from Ibaraki Prefecture's Yamanaka Shuzo. Very little information available about this specific bottling - it isn't listed on the brewer's website, which likely means it is an export-only product, or possibly re-labeled. The nose has roasted rice and husk notes, with peanut shell and a little hint of melon. The palate is distinctive, dry bread, with a sharpish sour-dry and bitter finish. This is substantial, and I think could more than stand up to very strongly flavoured foods, like raw liver. Based on this profile, I'm guessing that the SMV is pretty high (the front label does say "dry"), and there are a couple of tokubetsu junmai at Yamanaka that might fit the profile... except that my bottle gives the alcohol percentage as 14 - 14.9%, and there simply isn't an appropriate equivalent in their portfolio. I just don't know.

Monday, December 7, 2009

Desert Protocol III: The Pianomen Sessions

lineup
It definitely took strength and resolve to follow on from Saturday night's festivities, but we were all up to the task. We started with a coffee stout, Mikkeller's Jackie Brown (6% abv, light and bitter, just the right way to get things started.)

Up next was the 1999 Movia Puro Rose (Goriška Brda), again disgorged. Video footage to follow. I think the couple of days rest made a big difference this time, as it was notably fresher than our Thanksgiving Day bottle, good minerality, less round. Good work, but now time to start eating.

Freetata
B. clearly has a way with the kitchen. Exhibit A: Chorizo frittata. Delicious, and unexpectedly (i.e., completely unplanned), a great pairing with the Movia Puro Rose.

Now, back to work, a pair of seductive whites:
  • 2004 Domaine Marc Kreydenweiss Riesling Andlau (Andlau) - now this is an Alsatian wine I could get into - dry, sharp, almost cidery, citrus and mineral.
  • 1998 Weingut Willi Bründlmayer Grüner Veltliner Alte Reben (Kamptal) - who says G.V. only ages glacially? This was showing strong secondary characteristics, it was even more Alsatian than the Kreydenweiss. Med+ body, lots of minerality and apple/pear notes, not so much citrus or vegetable.



A house special adaptation, ramekin-baked egg, bechamel and gouda over shitaki. Followed by an assortment of grilled sausages.

  • 2002 Chateau Musar Rouge (Bekaa Valley) - Hello. How's it going? Nice to meet you. Classically funky nose, red and spicy, relatively straightforward (for now) but very approachable.
  • 1989 Mas de Daumas Gassac Vin de Pays de l'Hérault (Languedoc) - fruit, herbality and meatiness in elegant and seductive balance, like a breathless whisper.
  • 1973 Bodegas Riojanas Monte Real Gran Reserva (Rioja) - delightfully sanguine, with delicious tar, orange peel, and floral notes.



Tataki-style Ahi, to go with a bit of sake:
  • Daishichi Houreki (Fukushima) - a beautiful shizuku (free-run droplets) Junmai Daiginjo from this kimoto specialist, one of their top of the line sake. SMV +2, acidity 1.3, amino acidity 1.2, 16.5% abv. I believe this is an older vintage than the one I tried in the summer, expressed a little differently - cooling, soothing clay and petrichor nose, with melon and mineral tones to the pure and sweet springwater finish. This is mizumitai.


Next, a flight of whites with cheese (Moucou ColoRouge,an epoisses-style washed rind cow's milk cheese from Colorado, Iberico, Amentizia Carpini (Sardinia), and Bittersweet Dairy Holy Cow Vache Sante (Lousiana), a triple cream that is firm yet runny... go figure):

  • 2004 Jacques Puffeney Arbois Cuvée Sacha (Arbois) - walnut nose, plenty of lively mineral and sous voile character, but relatively tame for the style.
  • 2004 Emmanuel Houillon Arbois Pupillin Maison Pierre Overnoy (Arbois) - I was a bit surprised by this not very lively expression - it felt rather full and contented with itself, i.e., none of the more tangy edges of the Puffeney here, to say nothing of the '04 Macle Côtes du Jura. Perhaps just in a funny place?
  • 2003 Chateau Musar Blanc (Bekaa Valley) - very tight, simply not giving much right away, some nice saline, mineral and citrus, I'm sure a day or two open will put this right.
  • 1988 Fiorano (Boncompagni Ludovisi) Sémillon Vino da Tavola Bianco Botte 47 (Latium) - a dry, funky, floral and minty Sémillon, slightly hazy, and with an abundance of sediment and life to it. Fascinating stuff.


And finally, as our brunch dessert:
  • 2002 Alois Kracher Chardonnay/Welschriesling Grande Cuvée TBA #7 Nouvelle Vague (Burgenland) - wonderful balance, apricot, peach, pear, spices and more butter.



And back to the airport... very happy holidays indeed.

Sunday, December 6, 2009

Desert Protocol II: Atlas Shrugged

Plans to hit the gym Saturday morning were waylaid by bacon for breakfast, so the new plan was to do some shopping for Sunday's brunch and some cultural excursions.

tumbletree
Such as Chandler's very own pride and joy, the Tumbleweed Christmas Tree...

kokopelli
...and Arizona's finest winery, Kokopelli... home to "Wine-a-rita", a vile neon-green concoction that is more akin to a Fla·Vor·Ice freeze-pop than anything else.

A quick stop at Chandler's In-n-Out Burger yielded our first near-celebrity sighting of the weekend: the flesh and blood version of Kari, the baby-sitter from The Incredibles:



No, really. Incredible. Anyways, washed down the burgers with some Alaska Brewery Winter Ale (brewed with spruce tips) - decent ale, that, some wildberries and very mild minty wood - and then some stretching, in anticipation of a big session.

First, to pick up J., who was showing some of his work at a relative's home. This was also the site of our second near-celebrity sighting, Edna Mode!



To celebrate a successful visit, we opened a few bottles:

2002 Clouet
J. and B.'s first Clouet, the 2002 André Clouet Champagne Millésimé (Bouzy) - beautifully yeasty, great acidity and mousse, citric. A winner.

Tue-Bouef
Poor J. We did blind-taste him on the Wine-a-Rita (straight from the bottle, so that the colour - true to the photo - could not be seen.) Kindness prevailed though, and we drank the 2008 Le P'tit blanc du Tue-Bœuf (Touraine) - a blend of Menu Pineau and Sauvignon Blanc - crisp and dry, but with surprising body and nice apple and honey notes.

Movia and Moric
  • 2006 Moric Blaufränkisch (Burgenland) - elegant, opening with some time to some clay and tomatoe-y savouriness. Felt a little shut-down.
  • 2003 Movia Pinot Nero (Goriška Brda) - perhaps the revelation of the weekend - until this wine, I've been pretty unmoved by the standard red varietal wines made in this area. The nose was full of steamed root vegetables and compost, with fine fresh fruit and earth on the palate. Delicious Pinot, not at all blowsy, overdone, or high octane.


On to dinner, at one of the very few Phoenix-area BYOB's, Atlas Bistro. I'll say it now - worth going to Atlas Bistro, dodgy mathematics on corkage aside ($10 per bottle, we somehow got charged for more bottles than we brought, but weren't very sharp at the time we came to the reckoning.) My meal consisted of La Belle Duck Confit with Gingered Garnet Yam Latke, Persimmon Mostarda and Baby Frisee, Niman Pork "Two-Ways" Tenderloin & Pork Belly with Sweet Potatoes, Kraut, Horseradish Jus, and Wilcox Apples & Golden Raisins on Almond Pound Cake and Maple Cinnamon Panna Cotta. I also snuck a bite of the Foie Gras on Pumpkin Bread dessert, which was ridiculously good. I choose poorly. But drank well:

To start, N.V. Egly-Ouriet Champagne Brut 'Les Vignes de Vrigny' (Vrigny / Petite Montaigne de Reims) - 100% Pinot Meunier aged 40 months on the lees - good concentration, dry, a little soft, but no toastiness/yeastiness - a tasty but unusual Champagne.

Then, a super white flight:

Musar, Kalin, Blackwood Canyon
  • 1990 Blackwood Canyon Chardonnay (Yakima Valley, Washington) - shapeshifting nose, walnut, butterscotch popcorn, very bright and tangy.
  • 1988 Kalin Cellars Chardonnay Cuvée LV (Sonoma) - more marine and mellow than the Blackwood, some nuts and creamy/sherried notes.
  • 1990 Chateau Musar Blanc (Bekaa Valley) - the odd-man out, much smoother, tannic and savoury than the other two, apples, smoky and saline.


Continuing, a little something pink:

Heredia and Musar
  • 1995 R. López de Heredia Viña Tondonia Rosado (Rioja) - savoury, brothy, petrichor, every bit as delicious as a year ago.
  • 1995 Chateau Musar Rosé (Bekaa Valley) - as I understand it, this has never been imported into the U.S., so I'm sitting on a wee pot of Musarian gold, and was delighted to open the first bottle with these folks. The nose was like a distilled, subtle version of the classic rouge, but clean and light. Super, and an intriguing contrast to the Heredia.


Then, the reds:

Musar and Heredia
  • 1981 R. López de Heredia Viña Bosconia Gran Reserva (Rioja) - lots of funk and depth, but very approachable and delicious. A feminine wine with a wild streak.
  • 1981 R. López de Heredia Viña Tondonia Gran Reserva (Rioja) - by comparison, very tight and tannic, but started to open as the evening continued, showing real elegance.
  • 1977 Chateau Musar Rouge (Bekaa Valley) - deliciously animale to start, like a lathered thoroughbred, sweet fruit and spicy tasting, seems impossibly young. Wish we'd had more time with this, with all three really, but we drank them off.


And last, but not least:

Kracher
  • 1998 Alois Kracher Scheurebe TBA #12 Zwischen den Seen (Burgenland) - this is ambrosia - super balance, bright acidity on the attack, and then apricot jam on a raft of buttercream.


We outlasted every diner, and all the kitchen staff. A superb evening, and no doubt, Atlas will be the site of future Desert Protocols.

On to Sunday

Saturday, December 5, 2009

Desert Protocol I: Rock the Kazbar

A tremendous long-weekend of fine wine and foods with J., who had come in from Japan to present some of his paintings, and L. and B., Chandler, AZ residents. There were also cultural events, doppelgängers, and dangerous wildlife to avoid, all played to an '80s soundtrack. And so, before heading out for Friday's dinner, and warnings about scorpions, dangerous spiders, and Scottsdale Cougars, a quick sup at home. First, a peg of Wakatake Junmai Onigoroshi, followed by:

2006 Kiralyudvar Tokaji Sec (Tokaji, Hungary) - 70% Furmint, 30% Hárslevelu, 100% delicious. Beautifully aromatic nose of fine milled soaps, like Santa Maria Novella. Dry-ish, with very pleasant mineral and almost Muscat-like fruit.

kazbar
And then, it was off to the legendary Kazimierz, a Scottsdale "speakeasy" with a fantastical list. I say legendary and fantastical because it's not clear that they have much wine at all:

  • 2003 Chateau Musar Blanc - "Probably not. It's not very good, it's a weird Lebanese wine, they've only had, like, one good vintage." Um, check please!
  • "Have you any Koshu?" - "I doubt it."
  • "Chinon?" - "Ahhh, no."
  • 2005 Dingac Plavac Mali - "Not today, sir."
  • 2001 Movia Ribolla Gialla - [in an abundance of hope and optimism, the waitress returned with glasses this time.] "Afraid we're fresh out."
  • 2003 Kavaklıdere Öküzgözü Boğazkere - "Don't get much call for that 'round here, sir." Don't get much call...? Why, it's the single most popular wine in... well, Turkey.

It was rather like that. The truth may be inside, the wine list is inside, but the wine itself was largely nowhere to be found. Ultimately, they did have the 2006 Domaine de Nizas Carignane Vielle Vignes (Languedoc), which we gulped down with some overly-cumined carpaccio and a flatbread pizza. Time to move on, to Metro, for some tasty steak frites, and a 2005 Nicolas Potel Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Aux Echanges - lots of cherry and earth, very bright and fresh, almost too fresh, I'm curious if there was refermentation going on here, but it was still tasty.

And then, for a quiet nightcap, 2001 Philippe Delesvaux Sélection de Grains Nobles Coteaux du Layon (Anjou-Saumur) - floral + menthol nose, lots of honey, orange and orange peel, with focused acidity - good concentration, yet light in weight and relatively dry.

A slightly off-kilter start, but with good tunes and better company.

On to Saturday

Tuesday, December 1, 2009

Pollo Campero

camperoHad heard about this from a Guatemalan friend a few years ago - cult fried chicken. Had never actually seen one before, but can now say that I'm a fan. Don't know what's in the seasoning for the fried chicken, but it's different. A fine solution to everyman's fried chicken craving. The grilled chicken is tasty too. Not quite Nando's level, but good.

friedgrilled

To go with these, we also stopped in at a Peruvian chicken shop called El Pollo Rico - apparently famous in the D.C. area. Grilled chicken - smokier/earthier and less flavourful than Campero's, but comes with two tasty condiments - one a mustard/mayo combo, the other cilantro and lime. Good, but I still preferred the Campero version.

To wash it down, the 2007 Hiedler Grüner Veltliner Thal - crunchy, crispy GV goodness, still digging this wine.