Rorschwihr Test

Tonight R. and I attended an importer tasting of the wines of Rolly Gassmann, from the village of Rorschwihr in the Alsace. Rolly Gassmann... producer with a good reputation, no Grand Cru sites, uncertified biodynamic, and a penchant for sweetness. The Alsace has not held much joy for me, but I'm open to trying, plus R. loves Gewürztraminer.

2001 Auxerrois Moenchreben (12% abv): Full-on nose, apple, pear, tropical fruit, chalky minerality. Light-medium body, good acidity, nicely balanced, sweet but not too sweet, with a nice, clean springwater and bitters finish. R.'s favorite on the evening. [$27]

2006 Riesling (13% abv): Warm topaz colour, very perfumed-nose, smells like a dessert wine, honeyed, candied orange peel, spice. Again light-medium body, again not quite as sweet as I'd expected, lots of pineapple, unripe tropical notes, some cidery touches, good acidity, well-balanced. [$29]

2004 Riesling Kappelweg (12.5% abv): Lighter in colour than the first riesling, an even more perfumed-nose, full-on tropical fruit, plus apricot jam and apple juice. Surprisingly light and restrained on the palate - I wouldn't call it dry, but the balance is terrific, light funk, mineral water, and a clean finish. My favorite wine of the evening. [$60]

2004 Pinot Gris (13% abv): Very tropical nose, bordering on over the top, with some oxidative and cotton candy notes. Full bodied, but rather soft. This didn't work for me. [$40]

2004 Gewürztraminer (13% abv): Odd. Would never pick this out as Gewürztraminer. Very flat nose, one-note palate, all sugar. Importer reckons that this needs more bottle age. Whatever it was, this was a no-show. [$37]

2001 Pinot Gris Vendages Tardive (12% abv): Curious nose, smoky, musty, bitter leafy greens, seashells. Medium+ body, good acidity, structurally well-balanced, yet it left both of us flat. Just not much complexity, actually a little dirty tasting. [$67]

Well, it was a solid start and a not so great finish. Still sweeter than I like generally, but the Rieslings and Auxerrois were well contained. The prices though, can't say I'm much inclined to buy. <img alt="Rolly Gassmann" border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_9T848u4wxrU/SiCVZoIhz4I/AAAAAAAAAPs/9pVA76nfv48/s400/IMGP1774.JPG" style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;">Tonight R. and I attended an importer tasting of the wines of Rolly Gassmann, from the village of Rorschwihr in the Alsace. Rolly Gassmann... producer with a good reputation, no Grand Cru sites, uncertified biodynamic, and a penchant for sweetness. The Alsace has not held much joy for me, but I'm open to trying, plus R. loves Gewürztraminer<span class="fullpost">.<br /><br /><b>2001 Auxerrois <i>Moenchreben</i></b> (12% abv): Full-on nose, apple, pear, tropical fruit, chalky minerality. Light-medium body, good acidity, nicely balanced, sweet but not too sweet, with a nice, clean springwater and bitters finish. R.'s favorite on the evening. [$27]<br /><br /><b>2006 Riesling</b> (13% abv): Warm topaz colour, very perfumed-nose, smells like a dessert wine, honeyed, candied orange peel, spice. Again light-medium body, again not quite as sweet as I'd expected, lots of pineapple, unripe tropical notes, some cidery touches, good acidity, well-balanced. [$29]<br /><br /><b>2004 Riesling <i>Kappelweg</i></b> (12.5% abv): Lighter in colour than the first riesling, an even more perfumed-nose, full-on tropical fruit, plus apricot jam and apple juice. Surprisingly light and restrained on the palate - I wouldn't call it dry, but the balance is terrific, light funk, mineral water, and a clean finish. My favorite wine of the evening. [$60]<br /><br /><b>2004 Pinot Gris</b> (13% abv): Very tropical nose, bordering on over the top, with some oxidative and cotton candy notes. Full bodied, but rather soft. This didn't work for me. [$40]<br /><br /><b>2004 Gewürztraminer</b> (13% abv): Odd. Would never pick this out as Gewürztraminer. Very flat nose, one-note palate, all sugar. Importer reckons that this needs more bottle age. Whatever it was, this was a no-show. [$37]<br /><br /><b>2001 Pinot Gris <i>Vendages Tardive</i></b> (12% abv): Curious nose, smoky, musty, bitter leafy greens, seashells. Medium+ body, good acidity, structurally well-balanced, yet it left both of us flat. Just not much complexity, actually a little dirty tasting. [$67]<br /><br />Well, it was a solid start and a not so great finish. Still sweeter than I like generally, but the Rieslings and Auxerrois were well contained. The prices though, can't say I'm much inclined to buy.</span>

Nishida Denshu Tokubetsu Junmai [1 Koku - 78]

From Aomori Prefecture. Semaibuai 55%, SMV +3, acidity 1.5, 15.5% abv. I understand that this is not widely available, even in Japan, and has a bit of a cult-y following. Understandably so. Creamy steamed rice nose, delicious melon and rice-sweetness. Full-bodied yet ever so clean, especially cold, but once it gets to room temperature, clean and umami. Super. <img alt="nishida denshu" border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_9T848u4wxrU/Sh9BsbfV5SI/AAAAAAAAAPc/Ew-YtpgLUzE/s400/IMGP0931.JPG"><br />From Aomori Prefecture. Semaibuai 55%, SMV +3, acidity 1.5, 15.5% abv. I understand that this is not widely available, even in Japan, and has a bit of a cult-y following. Understandably so. Creamy steamed rice nose, delicious melon and rice-sweetness. Full-bodied yet ever so clean, especially cold, but once it gets to room temperature, clean <i>and</i> umami. Super.

Echigo Denemon Junmai [1 Koku - 79]

A junmai-shu from Niigata Prefecture. Gohyakumangoku rice, milled to 55%. SMV +2, acidity 1.4, #9 yeast, and 15-16% abv. Light nose, bit of peanut shell, petrichor. On the palate, again, quite light, both in body and in flavour profile. Very clean, hints of white-fruit-flesh sweetness, but mostly springwater. Easy drinking. <img alt="denemon" border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_9T848u4wxrU/ShituGQss7I/AAAAAAAAAO8/VD1b0UI69Wc/s400/IMGP1756.JPG" style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 300px; height: 400px;"><br />A junmai-shu from Niigata Prefecture. Gohyakumangoku rice, milled to 55%. SMV +2, acidity 1.4, #9 yeast, and 15-16% abv. Light nose, bit of peanut shell, petrichor. On the palate, again, quite light, both in body and in flavour profile. Very clean, hints of white-fruit-flesh sweetness, but mostly springwater. Easy drinking.

Hanssens Artisanaal Oudbeitje Lambic

Holy strangeness! Wild crazy stuff. Barrel aged, blended lambic. Intense nose of cinnamon, strawberries, high tone, funk, vulcanised rubber, VA, rust... on to taste... I take it back... the nose is not intense... the palate... THIS is intense... puckering, high acidity, air-dried apple cores, white vinegar, salty, citric... a LOT like scrumpy cider, but so high toned, it's hard to think this isn't off, but reviews on Beer Advocate seem pretty consistent. Ok, I'm no lambic specialist, I usually only buy it because R. likes the light fruity styles... this is not that... she is stunned... thinks this is Geneva Convention violation territory... <img alt="lambic" border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_9T848u4wxrU/ShdAzEaCV0I/AAAAAAAAAO0/8KvE7Wz1UEY/s400/IMGP0921.JPG" style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 300px; height: 400px;"><br />Holy strangeness! Wild crazy stuff. Barrel aged, blended lambic. Intense nose of cinnamon, strawberries, high tone, funk, vulcanised rubber, VA, rust... on to taste... I take it back... the nose is not intense... the palate... THIS is intense... puckering, high acidity, air-dried apple cores, white vinegar, salty, citric... a LOT like scrumpy cider, but so high toned, it's hard to think this isn't off, but reviews on Beer Advocate seem pretty consistent. Ok, I'm no lambic specialist, I usually only buy it because R. likes the light fruity styles... this is not that... she is stunned... thinks this is Geneva Convention violation territory...

Ginsekai Daiginjo

From Hiroshima's Aihara Shuzo - here's an interesting brewery - ONLY makes Daiginjo!! This is one is milled down to 40%, SMV +4, acidity 1.2, amino acidity 1.0, #9 yeast, 15-16% abv. Very aromatic nose, melons, but also herbal and yeasty touches. On the palate, nicely balanced, alcohol is well integrated - round and full, more than I'd expect, but decent acidity at the end. Sweet melon and rice mash, but also savoury and vegetal elements - jicama and celery. Not sure of the rice here - one of the kanji is "machi" so I'd think omachi, but I don't recognise the first character. Doesn't taste like omachi either. <img alt="ginsekai" border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_9T848u4wxrU/ShYZNZUFYcI/AAAAAAAAAOU/7KqBKY06Rvc/s400/IMGP1739.JPG" style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 324px;">From Hiroshima's Aihara Shuzo - here's an interesting brewery - ONLY makes Daiginjo!! This is one is milled down to 40%, SMV +4, acidity 1.2, amino acidity 1.0, #9 yeast, 15-16% abv. Very aromatic nose, melons, but also herbal and yeasty touches. On the palate, nicely balanced, alcohol is well integrated - round and full, more than I'd expect, but decent acidity at the end. Sweet melon and rice mash, but also savoury and vegetal elements - jicama and celery. Not sure of the rice here - one of the kanji is "machi" so I'd think omachi, but I don't recognise the first character. Doesn't taste like omachi either.

2006 Valter Scarbolo Pinot Grigio "Ramato"

It was an absolutely beautiful evening tonight, we decided to take in some evening sun on the balcony, and I had a hankering for something pink. Scarbolo to the rescue. Ramato means copper, and this wine has such a pretty colour - according to Valter, this is the natural colour for this grape, really reminds me of those Austrian Schilchersekts... this wine, half cold macerated, half skin-fermented. Lots of nectarine, orange peel (R. says Mandarins) and smoke on both the nose and palate. Much more depth than the usual PG, good acidity and full of mineral and bitters. A little "darker" than when I had this a few months ago but still a really great aperitif. <img alt="ramato" border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_9T848u4wxrU/ShTNmFdd7fI/AAAAAAAAAOM/AeRsqYqfVdw/s400/IMGP0916.JPG" style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;">It was an absolutely beautiful evening tonight, we decided to take in some evening sun on the balcony, and I had a hankering for something pink. Scarbolo to the rescue. Ramato means copper, and this wine has such a pretty colour - according to Valter, this is <i>the</i> natural colour for this grape, really reminds me of those Austrian Schilchersekts... this wine, half cold macerated, half skin-fermented. Lots of nectarine, orange peel (R. says Mandarins) and smoke on both the nose and palate. Much more depth than the usual PG, good acidity and full of mineral and bitters. A little "darker" than <a href="http://www.jumanaidjimidjango.com/2008/10/are-you-going-to-scarbolos-friuli.html">when I had this a few months ago</a> but still a really great aperitif.

Shintaro Junmai Karakuchi [1 Koku - 80]

Shintaro Junmai Karakuchi, 15-17% abv. By Hamakawa Shonten of Kochi Prefecture in Shikoku. Virtually no information on the label (nor anywhere else). Apparently a sake with a bit of a cult following, named after Shintaro Nakaoka, a political figure of the late 19th century, and a Kochi native, the label is full of little expressions which I can only assume are attributed to him.

Ore wa Ore - He lived his life in his own way.

Shitsujitsugouken - He was simple and sturdy.

Gankoittetsu - He was determined.

Seiseidoudou - He was open and great.

Jinbutsukarakuchi - He spoke frankly.

Shikakushimen - He had a steady and strict personality.

Doudoutsuin - He drank hard.

Tremendous! The nose is forward but light, flinty, floral, and fruity - melon. Sweetish entry, medium+ body, melon, mineral, spring water, but wiped out with a drying sour/bitter finish. Clean, mild, good acidity on the finish. Very very pleasant. <img alt="shintaro" border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_9T848u4wxrU/ShIL_PLfnII/AAAAAAAAAN8/pZNeGJL43rs/s400/IMGP1705.JPG"><br />Shintaro Junmai Karakuchi, 15-17% abv. By Hamakawa Shonten of Kochi Prefecture in Shikoku. Virtually no information on the label (nor anywhere else). Apparently a sake with a bit of a cult following, named after Shintaro Nakaoka, a political figure of the late 19th century, and a Kochi native, the label is full of little expressions which I can only assume are attributed to him.<br /><br /><b>Ore wa Ore</b> - He lived his life in his own way.<br /><br /><b>Shitsujitsugouken</b> - He was simple and sturdy.<br /><br /><b>Gankoittetsu</b> - He was determined.<br /><br /><b>Seiseidoudou</b> - He was open and great.<br /><br /><b>Jinbutsukarakuchi</b> - He spoke frankly.<br /><br /><b>Shikakushimen</b> - He had a steady and strict personality.<br /><br /><b>Doudoutsuin</b> - He drank hard.<br /><br />Tremendous! The nose is forward but light, flinty, floral, and fruity - melon. Sweetish entry, medium+ body, melon, mineral, spring water, but wiped out with a drying sour/bitter finish. Clean, mild, good acidity on the finish. Very very pleasant.

Almdudleywhatsit?

The self-proclaimed national drink of Austria, auf der Alm dudeln - "singing in the meadows" - why, yes, that is exactly how one feels when one drinks Almdudler. As they say, Wenn die kan Almdudler hab'n dann geh'i wieder ham! "If they don't have Almdudler, I'll go back home!"

And I agree. I've loved this since my first encounter with it more than 10 years ago. Straight up or mixed with beer, as a radler. Yes, yes, that's all fine, but what exactly is this krauterlimonade? An herb-infused citrus soda? Yes, that's all it is. Delicious too, tastes a bit similar to a less-fizzy ginger ale. Not ginger beer, but ginger ale. Oh, and it inspires dudeln and tanzn, so watch out. It is available in the U.S., you'll just have to search for it. Like this poor guy:

<img alt="almdudler" border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_9T848u4wxrU/SgsdIfRKcaI/AAAAAAAAANI/Cm5iECgKA_0/s400/IMGP0887.JPG" style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;"><br />The self-proclaimed national drink of Austria, <i>auf der Alm dudeln</i> - "singing in the meadows" - why, yes, that is <i>exactly</i> how one feels when one drinks <a href="https://www2.almdudler.com/" target="_blank">Almdudler</a>. As they say, <i>Wenn die kan Almdudler hab'n dann geh'i wieder ham</i>! "If they don't have Almdudler, I'll go back home!"<br /><br />And I agree. I've loved this since my first encounter with it more than 10 years ago. Straight up or mixed with beer, as a <i>radler</i>. Yes, yes, that's all fine, but what exactly is this <i>krauterlimonade</i>? An herb-infused citrus soda? Yes, that's all it is. Delicious too, tastes a bit similar to a less-fizzy ginger ale. Not ginger beer, but ginger ale. Oh, and it inspires <i>dudeln</i> and <i>tanzn</i>, so watch out. It <i>is</i> available in the U.S., you'll just have to search for it. Like this poor guy:<br /><br /><object height="300" width="400"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/jIk-6QnYPb4&hl=en&fs=1"><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/jIk-6QnYPb4&hl=en&fs=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="400" height="300"></embed></object>

The Pied Piper of Piesporter Goldtröpfchen

Having not at all recovered from last night's Movia marathon, R. and I stopped in at Tria before going to visit a friend's art exhibit. Nik Weis, the owner/winemaker from St. Urbanshof (maybe R.'s favorite riesling producer?) was presenting his 2007 Piesporter Goldtröpfchen Riesling Kabinett. Friendly, welcoming guy, just returned from India, first time trip, but looking forward to getting back, and getting more Indian food... we shared a good laugh about the, um, delights of Germany's Indianische Küche.

And the wine? Well, what can I say... I still find these too sweet for my taste in general, but to its credit, it had very good acidity. Floral, honeyed pear and stony nose, chalky yet creamy, racy, almost frizzante. The R.'s happy, so I's happy. To celebrate this happiness, we went out for Malaysian food and opened the 2005 Ockfener Bockstein Kabinett as well... Having not at all recovered from last night's Movia marathon, R. and I stopped in at Tria before going to visit a friend's art exhibit. Nik Weis, the owner/winemaker from <a href="http://www.urbans-hof.de/" target="_blank">St. Urbanshof</a> (maybe R.'s favorite riesling producer?) was presenting his <b>2007 Piesporter Goldtröpfchen Riesling Kabinett</b>. Friendly, welcoming guy, just returned from India, first time trip, but looking forward to getting back, and getting more Indian food... we shared a good laugh about the, um, delights of Germany's <i>Indianische Küche</i>.<br /><br />And the wine? Well, what can I say... I still find these too sweet for my taste in general, but to its credit, it had very good acidity. Floral, honeyed pear and stony nose, chalky yet creamy, racy, almost frizzante. The R.'s happy, so I's happy. To celebrate this happiness, we went out for Malaysian food and opened the <b>2005 Ockfener Bockstein Kabinett</b> as well...

Biodynamic s'Wine Flu

Some dead soldiers from Thursday's dinner with Aleš Kristančič of Collio/Brda's Movia - geographically, mostly Slovenian at the moment, and 100%, unashamedly, unapologetically biodynamic. 15 wines, both current and back vintages, hosted in Italian Wine Merchant's Union Square dining room.

Our man Ales is a bit of a legend, a wild man, likes to party. Aspiring footballer turned vino-philosopher, this was a night punctuated by wisecracks and stories, most were not quite ribald. Tremendous.

We started with antipasti and two of Movia's great sparkling wines, the 2000 Puro (60% Ribolla, 30% Chardonnay, 10% Pinot Nero) and the 100% Pinot Nero 2001 Puro Rose, disgorged before our eyes in a seemingly endless stream of magnums. I was catching up with my friend C., when the woman standing next to me was introduced to another couple as what sounded like "Halle Berry" - well, I admit I did let an eye wander, I don't think it was her, but I'm pretty sure I saw this pretty young lady on TV this morning. Will investigate...

Anyways... I profess a preference for the Puro Rose. The regular Puro is tasty, yes, but the Rose has so much more going on, the Rose is creamy where the Puro is angular. I'm also preferring this with the lees still in, as I shared with J., S., and Daimon-san in Kyoto a few weeks back.



We started dinner with a pasta course, Ofella alla Triestina - a spinach and sausage filled ravioli, served with 4 vintages of the Veliko Bianco, Movia's flagship cuvée, a blend of Ribolla, Chardonnay, Sauvignon (blanc) and Pinot Grigio, aged for 3 years in Slavonian (not Slovenian) oak. The 2004, the only vintage not poured from jeroboam, was easily the brightest - floral and spicy with good balance. The 2001 was softer, more mineral driven, but seemed to me in an awkward phase - not very giving. In contrast, the 1995 and 1990 were very much alive, and while the acidity may have tamed with time, any loss was clearly offset by the gained depth and complexity. Earth and mineral driven palate, with floral and almost tropical notes on the nose.

The fish course followed, Tonno fresco sott'olio con verdure primaverili - olive oil poached tuna with spring greens. Paired with 3 vintages of the single varietal Ribolla Gialla, and one of the special Ribolla Gialla bottling, the Lunar. The 2006 Ribolla is simply great wine, perfectly aligned with my preferences - lean, austere, bright and stony, with nut oil and olive fruit highlights. Wonderful with the tuna. The next two wines though, were revelations. First, the 1971 - slightly subdued nose, dill and gumdrops, but incredibly complex and layered on the palate, quite rich, earth and mineral driven, but with vegetal and white fruit notes, abundant, but balanced by the still lively acidity. 1971! The next wine was from 1967 - while the palate was certainly less complex, it had everything on the nose that the 1971 lacked - apples, snap peas, carroway, lacquer. Amazing wines.

As we moved onto the 2007 Lunar, a wine I enjoyed tremendously on my visit to Ljubljana, Aleš started diving into his philosophical approaches. A phrase that stuck with me, describing the tightrope a winemaker, or at least Aleš walks: "The best wine is almost vinegar." I truly enjoy this style of "cloudy" wine. Of a family with, but clearly different than the 2006 I'd tried before - floral, smoky, tannic, and super complex, yes, but without the very prominent savoury herbal notes. Will be interesting to follow these wines.

Around this time, Aleš started talking about his youth, in particular his lack of interest in wine, and preference for football. Which got me to thinking, who does he remind me of?


Vinnie Jones (former footballer) and Aleš Kristančič (would-be former footballer). Separated at birth? I also happen to think that Peter Garrett (Midnight Oil) and Pierluigi Collina (football referee) must be related. This would be one bad-ass bald-headed gang.

The secondi piatti was Capretto arrosto con patate in tecia - roasted baby goat with braised potatoes. Ah, goat meat... one of life's great meat pleasures. Paired with 4 more jeroboam, this time of the Veliko Rosso, the cuvée of Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Nero, and Merlot. To preface, I've not been all that keen on Friulian red wines made from the internationally grown varietals. Point me towards Tazzelenghe (tongue cutting), Schiopettino (gunshot) or Refosco dal pedunculo rosso instead, thank you very much. I appreciate the restraint and elegance of Movia's reds, both the cuvée and the single varietal bottlings, but for me, they've tended to tip towards the dull side. Good wine, great for food, but not so interesting. I found the 2001 and 2002 in particular overly-oaked (perhaps not so by "international" standards, but still), showing mostly on the nose. On the palate, these were lean and elegant wines, but mostly a frame looking for a picture. The 1995 looked a bit tired and brown, but was surprisingly tannic and stand-offish - it was a bit strange, though started to come around towards the end of the evening. An enigma. The 1983 on the other hand, was genuinely interesting and alive from the outset - some Musarian character without the brett funk. Slightly more expensive on release than the Musar though, and needing 25+ years to get going? Not the best proposition for me.

To wrap things up, some cheeses - robiola, brunet, and la tur along with a jeroboam of 2003 Puro Rose, disgorged (after lengthy wrestling) at the table by Aleš, who, by the way, has humongous hands. That and the Vinnie Jones connection suggests that it best not to cross Aleš, charmer that he is notwithstanding.

And that was dinner. The food was good, the Puro Rose was a party in a glass, the white wines were for me confirmation and revelation both. The reds were merely good. The goings on after dinner, well, I guess you had to be there. All I can tell you is I woke up mid-day, lightly feverish and confused, achy and broken... like a pig shat in my head... which explains all... <img alt="wines" border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_9T848u4wxrU/SgTOMIwI1iI/AAAAAAAAALw/b5zOG8o0J-0/s400/IMGP0852.JPG" width="400"><br />Some dead soldiers from Thursday's dinner with Aleš Kristančič of Collio/Brda's <a href="http://www.movia.si/" target="_blank">Movia</a> - geographically, mostly Slovenian at the moment, and 100%, unashamedly, unapologetically biodynamic. 15 wines, both current and back vintages, hosted in <a href="http://www.iwmstore.com/" target="_blank">Italian Wine Merchant</a>'s Union Square dining room<span class="fullpost">.<br /><br />Our man Ales is a bit of a legend, a wild man, likes to party. Aspiring footballer turned vino-philosopher, this was a night punctuated by wisecracks and stories, most were not quite ribald. Tremendous.<br /><br />We started with antipasti and two of Movia's great sparkling wines, the <b>2000 Puro</b> (60% Ribolla, 30% Chardonnay, 10% Pinot Nero) and the 100% Pinot Nero <b>2001 Puro Rose</b>, disgorged before our eyes in a seemingly endless stream of magnums. I was catching up with my friend C., when the woman standing next to me was introduced to another couple as what sounded like "Halle Berry" - well, I admit I did let an eye wander, I don't think it was her, but I'm pretty sure I saw this pretty young lady on TV this morning. Will investigate...<br /><br />Anyways... I profess a preference for the Puro Rose. The regular Puro is tasty, yes, but the Rose has so much more going on, the Rose is creamy where the Puro is angular. I'm also preferring this with the lees still in, as <a href="http://www.jumanaidjimidjango.com/2009/03/kyoto-protocol-iv.html">I shared with J., S., and Daimon-san in Kyoto</a> a few weeks back.<br /><br /><img alt="puro rose" border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_9T848u4wxrU/SgUmW9JYndI/AAAAAAAAAMI/Z8ygA-TQ_oA/s400/IMG_4869.JPG" width="400"><br /><br />We started dinner with a pasta course, <i>Ofella alla Triestina</i> - a spinach and sausage filled ravioli, served with 4 vintages of the <b>Veliko Bianco</b>, Movia's flagship cuvée, a blend of Ribolla, Chardonnay, Sauvignon (blanc) and Pinot Grigio, aged for 3 years in Slavonian (not Slovenian) oak. The <b>2004</b>, the only vintage not poured from jeroboam, was easily the brightest - floral and spicy with good balance. The <b>2001</b> was softer, more mineral driven, but seemed to me in an awkward phase - not very giving. In contrast, the <b>1995</b> and <b>1990</b> were very much alive, and while the acidity may have tamed with time, any loss was clearly offset by the gained depth and complexity. Earth and mineral driven palate, with floral and almost tropical notes on the nose.<br /><br />The fish course followed, <i>Tonno fresco sott'olio con verdure primaverili</i> - olive oil poached tuna with spring greens. Paired with 3 vintages of the single varietal Ribolla Gialla, and one of the special Ribolla Gialla bottling, the <b>Lunar</b>. The <b>2006</b> Ribolla is simply great wine, perfectly aligned with my preferences - lean, austere, bright and stony, with nut oil and olive fruit highlights. Wonderful with the tuna. The next two wines though, were revelations. First, the <b>1971</b> - slightly subdued nose, dill and gumdrops, but incredibly complex and layered on the palate, quite rich, earth and mineral driven, but with vegetal and white fruit notes, abundant, but balanced by the still lively acidity. 1971! The next wine was from <b>1967</b> - while the palate was certainly less complex, it had everything on the nose that the 1971 lacked - apples, snap peas, carroway, lacquer. Amazing wines.<br /><br />As we moved onto the <b>2007 Lunar</b>, a wine I enjoyed tremendously on my <a href="http://www.jumanaidjimidjango.com/2008/10/slovenely-winetasting.html">visit to Ljubljana</a>, Aleš started diving into his philosophical approaches. A phrase that stuck with me, describing the tightrope a winemaker, or at least Aleš walks: "<i>The best wine is almost vinegar</i>." I truly enjoy this style of "cloudy" wine. Of a family with, but clearly different than the 2006 I'd tried before - floral, smoky, tannic, and super complex, yes, but without the very prominent savoury herbal notes. Will be interesting to follow these wines.<br /><br />Around this time, Aleš started talking about his youth, in particular his lack of interest in wine, and preference for football. Which got me to thinking, who does he remind me of?<br /><br /><img alt="vinnie jones" border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_9T848u4wxrU/SgTPDOK2JJI/AAAAAAAAAMA/XSI1wCl5OtA/s400/vinnie-jones-20070730-291527.jpg" width="171"> <img alt="ales" border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_9T848u4wxrU/SgTPCxS0cVI/AAAAAAAAAL4/3T79WIWynEQ/s400/ales.jpg" width="213"><br />Vinnie Jones (former footballer) and Aleš Kristančič (would-be former footballer). Separated at birth? I also happen to think that Peter Garrett (Midnight Oil) and Pierluigi Collina (football referee) must be related. This would be one bad-ass bald-headed gang.<br /><br />The secondi piatti was <i>Capretto arrosto con patate in tecia</i> - roasted baby goat with braised potatoes. Ah, goat meat... one of life's great meat pleasures. Paired with 4 more jeroboam, this time of the <b>Veliko Rosso</b>, the cuvée of Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Nero, and Merlot. To preface, I've not been all that keen on Friulian red wines made from the internationally grown varietals. Point me towards <i>Tazzelenghe</i> (tongue cutting), <i>Schiopettino</i> (gunshot) or <i>Refosco dal pedunculo rosso</i> instead, thank you very much. I appreciate the restraint and elegance of Movia's reds, both the cuvée and the single varietal bottlings, but for me, they've tended to tip towards the dull side. Good wine, great for food, but not so interesting. I found the <b>2001</b> and <b>2002</b> in particular overly-oaked (perhaps not so by "international" standards, but still), showing mostly on the nose. On the palate, these were lean and elegant wines, but mostly a frame looking for a picture. The <b>1995</b> looked a bit tired and brown, but was surprisingly tannic and stand-offish - it was a bit strange, though started to come around towards the end of the evening. An enigma. The <b>1983</b> on the other hand, was genuinely interesting and alive from the outset - some Musarian character without the brett funk. Slightly more expensive on release than the Musar though, and needing 25+ years to get going? Not the best proposition for me.<br /><br />To wrap things up, some cheeses - <i>robiola</i>, <i>brunet</i>, and <i>la tur</i> along with a jeroboam of <b>2003 Puro Rose</b>, disgorged (after lengthy wrestling) at the table by Aleš, who, by the way, has humongous hands. That and the Vinnie Jones connection suggests that it best not to cross Aleš, charmer that he is notwithstanding.<br /><br />And that was dinner. The food was good, the Puro Rose was a party in a glass, the white wines were for me confirmation and revelation both. The reds were merely good. The goings on after dinner, well, I guess you had to be there. All I can tell you is I woke up mid-day, lightly feverish and confused, achy and broken... like a pig shat in my head... which explains all...</span>

A Brush with (Black) Death

Cold, miserable wet night in Philly. Having spent a few hours on the river out in the elements, I was definitely in the mood for a "pick-me-up", and this fit the bill. I'm not entirely sure why, but we've got several bottles of Iceland's Brennivin - the Black Death, or svarti dauði. Not just from our own travels to Iceland, but also received as gifts from others Reykjavík returned. We keep drinking it, yet more bottles keep showing up in the freezer.

Given Iceland's liquor tax laws, this is sort of the Icelandic equivalent of Cisco. Sort of. I rather like it anyways. Distilled from potato pulp liquor, and then flavoured with caraway seeds, the flavor is singular, unique, and persistent. Of a family with akvavit, though the roasting of the caraway seeds lends a brightly identifiable character. For a sense of the kind of inspirational power Brennivin has, I highly recommend clicking on the photo below.

<img alt="brennivin" border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_9T848u4wxrU/SgI5ezhFbxI/AAAAAAAAALg/-MwLxjzmQCo/s400/IMGP0840.JPG" style="display:block; margin:0px auto 0px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 300px; height: 400px;">Cold, miserable wet night in Philly. Having spent a few hours on the river out in the elements, I was definitely in the mood for a "pick-me-up", and this fit the bill. I'm not entirely sure why, but we've got several bottles of Iceland's <a href="http://www.brennivin.com/" target="_blank">Brennivin</a> - the Black Death, or <i>svarti dauði</i>. Not just from our own <a href="http://www.jumanaidjimidjango.com/2004/11/chasing-aurora-borealis.html">travels to Iceland</a>, but also received as gifts from others Reykjavík returned. We keep drinking it, yet more bottles keep showing up in the freezer.<br /><br />Given Iceland's liquor tax laws, this is sort of the Icelandic equivalent of Cisco. Sort of. I rather like it anyways. Distilled from potato pulp liquor, and then flavoured with caraway seeds, the flavor is singular, unique, and persistent. Of a family with <i>akvavit</i>, though the roasting of the caraway seeds lends a brightly identifiable character. For a sense of the kind of inspirational power Brennivin has, I highly recommend clicking on the photo below.<br /><a href="http://www.i-site.com/holiday2007/" target="_blank"><br /><img alt="i-site tour" border="1" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_9T848u4wxrU/Sf4t9ugiyKI/AAAAAAAAALI/n9rAaqwC37s/s400/brennivintour.jpg" style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; " width="300"></a>

Kaori Junmai Ginjo [1 Koku - 81]

From Yamagata Honten in Yamaguchi Prefecture. Made from Yamada Nishiki rice milled to 60%, SMV +3, acidity 1.5, and 14.5% abv. Curious label, that reads kahori in hiragana and kaori in English. Same on the website, some mystery here. Full, sweet, nutty nose, with a light marine element. Unlike the brewer's notes, I did not detect any muscat. Not even close. Banana? Maybe. On the palate, this was rather full and yeasty, felt almost unfinished, kind of zingy. Good acidity, with some nutty and spicy highlights. Again, completely in contrast with the brewer's notes, this was not light-bodied and neutral. Not sure what's going on? This has certain hineka elements, but not convincingly, and unfortunately, the label didn't provide the brewing date. All that said, I found this more than tolerable, but will not be topping any lists. <img alt="kaori" border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_9T848u4wxrU/Sf-XWBCc8CI/AAAAAAAAALQ/SGKoqQDBzQY/s400/IMGP0825.JPG" style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;">From Yamagata Honten in Yamaguchi Prefecture. Made from Yamada Nishiki rice milled to 60%, SMV +3, acidity 1.5, and 14.5% abv. Curious label, that reads <i>ka<b><u>h</u></b>ori</i> in <i>hiragana</i> and kaori in English. Same on the website, some mystery here. Full, sweet, nutty nose, with a light marine element. Unlike the brewer's notes, I did not detect any muscat. Not even close. Banana? Maybe. On the palate, this was rather full and yeasty, felt almost unfinished, kind of zingy. Good acidity, with some nutty and spicy highlights. Again, completely in contrast with the brewer's notes, this was <i>not</i> light-bodied and neutral. Not sure what's going on? This has certain <i>hineka</i> elements, but not convincingly, and unfortunately, the label didn't provide the brewing date. All that said, I found this more than tolerable, but will not be topping any lists.

Genbei-san no Onikoroshi [1 Koku - 82]

From Yamamoto-Honke, in Nara Prefecture, this "demon slayer" is variously described as a honjozo or a futsushu. I'm leaning towards the latter, as apart from the 16% alcohol, absolutely no other details are provided. Tastes "older" than the last time I tasted this, lighter in the nose, cleaner, but still tangy. On the palate, still very dry, crisp, with a bitter finish, but the sweet component was more fullsome. Still, quite ok, but probably not buying a bottle for myself again. <img alt="genbeisan" border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_9T848u4wxrU/Sf-X0YdlZzI/AAAAAAAAALY/WIvu1F0DDEE/s400/IMGP0836.JPG" style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 300px; height: 400px;">From Yamamoto-Honke, in Nara Prefecture, this "demon slayer" is variously described as a <i>honjozo</i> <b>or</b> a <i>futsushu</i>. I'm leaning towards the latter, as apart from the 16% alcohol, absolutely no other details are provided. Tastes "older" than the last time I tasted this, lighter in the nose, cleaner, but still tangy. On the palate, still very dry, crisp, with a bitter finish, but the sweet component was more fullsome. Still, quite ok, but probably not buying a bottle for myself again.

Dewazakura Oka Ginjo [1 Koku - 83]

The ginjo-shu that started it all. From Yamagata Prefecture, semaibuai 50%, SMV +5, acidity 1.2, 15.5% abv. Made from Miyama-nishiki and Yukigeshyo rice, and #10 yeast. Unmistakable nose, highly perfumed, abundantly floral with melon and pear juice. On the palate, melon-infused spring-water, with good acidity, and a light bitter finish. Medium++ bodied, smooth, clean, and "sweet", yet not sweet, yet sweeter than my normal preference, yet I could drink this all day. <img alt="dewazakura" border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_9T848u4wxrU/SfyDpTb8riI/AAAAAAAAAJM/OBYVXUm5J90/s400/IMGP0773.JPG" style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 300px; height: 400px;">The <i>ginjo-shu</i> that started it all. From Yamagata Prefecture, semaibuai 50%, SMV +5, acidity 1.2, 15.5% abv. Made from Miyama-nishiki and Yukigeshyo rice, and #10 yeast. Unmistakable nose, highly perfumed, abundantly floral with melon and pear juice. On the palate, melon-infused spring-water, with good acidity, and a light bitter finish. Medium++ bodied, smooth, clean, and "sweet", yet not sweet, yet sweeter than my normal preference, yet I could drink this all day.