Monday, March 29, 2010

Yes, Virginia...

A little detour while driving south this past weekend took us through some unfamiliar AVA's. Driving over the Blue Ridge Mountains and across the Shenandoah National Park, we entered the Monticello AVA, where wine has been made for nearly 350 years, and proceeded to our appointment at Blenheim Vineyards.


In this case, low-hanging clouds, not the fog that is common in the area.


A bend in the river... actually, this is Olympic Lake. Not sure why. The soils here are a granite-based clay.


Cherry trees in full bloom... hmm... where's the sake?


Flora...


...and Fauna. That's a big gobbler.


Nous sommes arrivés. It may be of interest to some that Blenheim Vineyards is owned by the Dave Matthews family. It was of interest to R. anyways, thus the choice.


A view of Blenheim's vines. Like others in the area, they grow some, and buy some fruit (mostly from Mount Joliet and Crozet in the same AVA.) At Blenheim, chardonnay, viognier, petit verdot, and cabernet franc are planted. The merlot and syrah is entirely purchased. According to winemaker Kirsty Harmon (in charge since 2008, following one Mr. Brad McCarthy), there is also a single row of pinot noir under vine, largely, she says, because everyone warned her that it couldn't be grown here.


The cellar and tasting room was built off sketches made by Mr. Matthews. The lower building functions as a lab - Kirsty runs a testing service in her "free time."


A glass floor in the tasting room allows one to see the barrels below. The floors, interestingly, are made from oak staves once used in cider vats - sourced from H.P. Bulmer of Hereford! Nice touch!


Kirsty took us down to the cellar, where, while fending off her dog, we tasted a variety of barrel samples and experimental batches. We also learned that the area's humidity and relatively warm temperatures make this a difficult area for growing grapes, such that, in her opinion, it would not be feasible to adopt natural and biodynamic practices (without losing the bulk of any harvest.) Apparently, early winemaking was done with non-vinifera grapes, which were more pest and fungus resistant. We also talked about the economics of winemaking in the U.S., very illuminating, but explains why so many wines from the U.S., the East Coast in particular, are so expensive. Explains, but doesn't justify.


On to the tasting. Having had some pretty disappointing tasting experiences in Pennsylvania, New Jersey, and New York, I didn't exactly go into this with high expectations. I was very pleased not to see Chambourcin on the list though. However... I was really very pleasantly surprised! Not only were the wines uniformly palatable, they were well made, with restraint, varietally correct, and with alcohol levels in the 12.5-13.5% range.

Whites
  • 2008 Chardonnay - 35% fermented (no malo) and equal amounts aged for 5 - 9 months in French, American, and Eastern European oak. Leafy green nose and good citrus. Creamy entry, but not buttery or oaky at all, moderate cut giving this a bit of verve, and good minerality. Simple but decent.

  • 2006 Chardonnay - made by the former winemaker, fully barrel fermented, with natural malo, in French oak, followed by 10 months of aging, 50/50 in new and neutral French oak. With all that wood, I expected this to be a monster, but it wasn't. The nose only betrayed a hint of caramel under smokier peat and pear/apple. It was certainly creamier, but not buttery - good crunchy fruit and mineral, with medium-full body. I did prefer the former.

  • 2008 Viognier - sourced fruit, 40% fermented and aged for 6 months in a mix of new French, American, and Eastern European oak, the rest in steel. Medium bodied, lightly creamy, yet tropical and spicy, all in a restrained style. I'm not a huge viognier fan, but this was pleasant.

  • Table Wine - this is an annual vintner's cuvee of chardonnay and viognier, made off-dry and aged 5 months in French and American oak. This was not my thing, but not terrible - definitely off-dry and silky, but there was still obvious acidity. Not enough for me to get past the candied apple and shellac tones though.


Reds
  • 2005 Meritage - 58% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Franc, and 2% Petit Verdot, aged in French oak for 16 months. Very soft and frooty, definitely true to the fermented grape juice ideal. Not for us, but again, if this generated the least interest of anything we tasted, I think we did rather well.

  • 2008 Painted Red - The "flagship" wine. 37% Cabernet Franc, 32% Petit Verdot, 28% Merlot and 3% Malbec. 70% aged 7 months in new French oak. Blackberry and violets but with the cab franc vegetality coming though assertively, with a touch of orange peel. Tasty. Label illustration (second from left) is by Mr. Matthews.

  • 2008 Petit Verdot - we tried two 2009 barrel samples of this, one oaked, the other naked. An interesting contrast, as the unoaked wine is aggressively tannic. A big wine, prominent cola notes and quite a lot of oak (12 months in new French and American oak.) The oak does fade to a spicy peppery finish, with blue and black fruits revealed along the way. Big, but not a Sledgehammer.

  • 2008 Cabernet Franc - aged 6 months in French and Appalachian oak. Lovely - vegetal, herbal, spicy, with bright and tart cranberries, good minerality and acidity.

  • 2008 Seven Oaks Merlot - named after the vineyard in Crozet, not a highly diversified barrel regimen (50% aged 9 months in new French oak.) Black tea and vegetal notes were prominent, as was the tannin. Needs either time or air, or both.

  • 2004 King Family Merlot - unfined, unfiltered, and aged in French oak for 16 months (new or old? Don't know.) Funky and bretty, berries and earth, tomato and aspic. Robust and pleasant. Also, the last of the wines on this property to see cork (everything else is screw-capped - Kirsty says she wants to make wines for drinking, not for laying down.)



Well, that was definitely the best East Coast lineup I've tasted. Certainly if I saw these on a restaurant list, I'd feel comfortable choosing several of these, especially the Cabernet Franc. The prices were also far more reasonable than most of what comes along in New York, much closer to appropriate value.

Thursday, March 25, 2010

Mura Mura "River" Junmai Ginjo


Mura Mura is a line of sake produced for Total Wines by Forest Grove, Oregon's Saké One. Neither website provides much information on this line, but judging from their published tasting notes, it seems as if "River" could be the same sake as the Momokawa Diamond. However, Madam's tasting note gives me pause... I guess I'll have to do a comparative tasting sometime.

The nose had a very creamy, cheesy/leesy profile, with cinnamon notes. Deeply chilled, the entry was off-dry, rice pudding with a healthy dose of cinnamon. The alcohol, only 14.8%, poked out a fair bit, getting more disjointed as it warmed up. Still, it was ok, certainly a standard deviation or two better than the usual suspects.

Wednesday, March 24, 2010

Sougen Junmai [1 Koku - 26]

Sougen Junmai
Sougen Junmai from Ishikawa Prefecture's Sougen Shuzo, I believe this is the pasteurised version of the one we tried in 2008. Yamada Nishiki milled to 55%, SMV +3, acidity 1.8, 15.5% abv, and brewed with #14 yeast. So, ginjo-level milling, but allegedly brewed with regular junmai methods - at least eschewing the slower, colder fermentation of the former. The nose has a prominent but light vegetal and distilled spirit profile. On the palate, the entry is sweet and lightly starchy, like coconut water, fading to more floral and cucumber notes. Soft, round and gentle, light to medium-weight, with a bright springwater tang and drying finish.

Monday, March 22, 2010

National Champeens!

Look like winners, no? It's true, the new reigning national champions. This past Saturday, unprecedented "team" winners of the 2010 Brompton U.S. Championships, "Best-Dressed" category.


Bikes in car. Many thanks to Michael McGettigan from Trophy Bikes for lending me an extra bike, and of course, organising a great event!


Pre-prandial pipes.


Now ready to ride.


Meeting up for the parade to the course. Contenders or pretenders?


Numbered and ready to win. It was in the bag people, in the bag.


Courage, gentlemen! No prizes for guessing what with.


Le Mans-style start.


Just before the "sprint" start.



Did I say sprint? I mean dash. I mean, amble. No, stroll, actually. Our camerawoman (R.) didn't quite catch on at first, but I think you get the idea. Next up was a 6+ mile course, two very good climbs, made more difficult by the smoking and drinking (both before and during!)



Bringing it home. The music is not mine, but you might recognise the laughter. Despite our best efforts, we were unable to come in last. By several minutes. Of course, we also were unable to come in first. By several minutes.


Victory lap.


Victory drinks. Good thing R. had come along with refueling supplies.


The awarding of prizes. Never in doubt!









...and now some photos from the paper have appeared.

Sunday, March 21, 2010

Kokuryu Junmai Ginjo [1 Koku - 27]

The "Black Dragon" from Fukui Prefecture's Kokuryu. Described by John Gauntner as a "hyper-popular" sake, but with no concession whatsoever to quality. Gohyakumangoku milled to 55%, SMV +3, acidity 1.4, and 15.5% abv. Mild, lightly sweet nose with hints of grain and grass. Round and soft on the palate, medium body but fairly forward, with late but subtle acidity. This is like a rice-malt version of a Tootsie Pop, simple and straightforward, but well short of being candified. R. was discomfited by a metallic note on the finish, which I could not find. Switching to a wider mouthed glass seemed to help a bit.

Saturday, March 20, 2010

Nogne Ø India Pale Ale

Nogne Ø India Pale Ale
17.5° P, 60 IBU, 7.5% abv. Poured surprisingly dark, a sort of cloudy strawberry jam colour, with orange-caramel fringes. Seems to be unfiltered, as there was quite a bit of dregs in the bottle. Persistent head, somewhat restrained nose of citrus hops and malt. Both heavier than I'd expect from an IPA, yet lighter than the colour suggested, good acidity and carbonation bite, not overly hoppy or bitter, I'd say even equally hoppy and malty, lots of earthiness, red fruit and caramel notes giving a sensation of sweetness, but not that much. Have to say this was unlike any IPA I've had before. Not in a bad way.

Friday, March 19, 2010

Naraman Junmai Muroka bin hiire [1 Koku - 28]

Naraman Junmai Muroka bin hiire
From Fukushima Prefecture's Yumegokoro Shuzo, this "Dream Heart" sake is unfined and bottle pasteurised. Gohyakumangoku milled to 55%, SMV +4, acidity 1.4, Utsukushima Yume Yeast and 16.5% abv. The muroka-ness isn't particularly obvious visually, this sake having only a faint yellowish tinge, no more than one might see elsewhere. The nose is both reserved and pungent - a fair whack of medicinality, almost brett-like, shellac, boiled unshelled peanuts. Unusual, slightly forbidding nose. Tilting back for the first sip though, the nose comes together with a chocolate character, and this enters very sweet, soft and sensuous, but with hidden deviancies in the dark recesses, apothecaries and necromancers, along with lush green sundrenched meadows and babbling mountain streams. It's both clean and dirty. Soooo soft and smooth at room temperature, like a baby blanket. Beguiling sake, this is not to be trusted at all.

Thursday, March 18, 2010

2007 Cos Pithos

Cos Pithos
From Azienda Agricola Cos in southeastern Sicily's Bastonaca. A 40/60 blend of Frappato di Vittoria and Nero d'Avola, the grapes spend 7 months in terracotta amphorae, macerating and fermenting, before transfer into barrels for the "black one" and steel for the Frappato. The shortish squat bottle is strangely appealing. This wine is ready to go, all unsweetened strawberry preserves, mineral and cream. Sweet and ripe, but nowhere near jammy, soft and smooth, yet fresh and refreshing. The acidity lends itself more to sourness than brightness, but is just lively enough to make this thoroughly enjoyable. I say this is ready to go b/c the day 2 character was a little less appealing, at least on the nose, which became rather tired, musty, and even a bit sweaty. It was odd. The palate picked up a bit of acidity though, and some citrus pithiness, making this still very enjoyable once the nose settled. Quite possibly, the mood swings here are related to the low sulfite levels, so, pop, pour, and be prepared to finish.

Wednesday, March 17, 2010

Jukusei no Jozen Mizunogotoshi Junmai Ginjo [1 Koku - 29]

Shirataki Jukusei no Jozen Mizunogotoshi Junmai Ginjo
Another Shirataki product, from Echigo in Niigata Prefecture. Unlike the Tanrei Uonoma we had a few months ago, this comes from their Jozen Mizunogotoshi ("Pure Flavour") line. Specifically, this is an aged (jukusei) version of the junmai ginjo, tank-aged for 6 months at 3°C before bottling. Gohyakumangoku and Miyama-Nishiki milled to 55%, SMV +3, acidity 1.4, and 15.5% abv. Interestingly, the Miyama-nishiki is used exclusively for the kojimai ("malted" rice) and shubo (yeast starter), with a 50:50 blend of 1401 and 901 yeasts. The Gohyakumangoku is used only as kakemai (steamed rice) for adding to the moromi, the main mash.

Enough on the technical details though. The nose is light like a breeze, glutinous rice with a hint of bitter greens. Smooth, a little round, mineral and starch driven, a late prickle of acidity, a mild bitterness, a bit of spiciness mixed with a subtle anise, followed by a long, minty fresh melon finish, leaving my mouth coated in spring-water cleanliness, as if I'd just brushed my teeth. Lovely. My kind of dental hygiene.

Tuesday, March 16, 2010

Nanburyu Junmai

Asabiraki Nanburyu Junmai
Nanburyu Junmai from Iwate Prefecture's Asabiraki Shuzo. Toyo Nishiki milled to 60%, SMV +2, acidity 1.4, 15.5% abv. The first time I had this, I was surprised by a rather prominent note of sugi - Japanese cedar. However, I was assured by the brewer that this isn't a taru-zake. Tasted from two more bottles, the wood spice is still there on the finish, not as strong though, even when not drunk in my "wappa" sugi cup. Still clean and light, a bit starchy through the mid-palate, followed by a touch of heat, and then the wood. Not my favorite sake, but more than adequate.

Monday, March 15, 2010

Two from Stadlmann

Stadlmann
Thermenregion's best producer? My first encounter with the latest vintage of Stadlmann's single-vineyard Zierfandler (Mandel-Höh), and my first ever encounter with the Neuburger varietal, an "accidental" crossing between Sylvaner and Roter Veltliner.

2007 Neuburger - aroma of apples and gewurz, acacia flowers. Medium bodied, but very light and stony, good acidity, crisp, fresh, citric, leaves a tingle, and a fleeting flavour of apple juice. Very delicious, and delivering for $12.

2007 Zierfandler Mandel-Höh - surprisingly heavy and viscous, but nicely balance by the acidity. It's got tropical fruit, but not in the normal way, this was oddly sake-like fruit-wise... melon... and membrillo... i.e., still quince like '06, but a little more jammy. On the whole, larger and seems like there's more r.s. than the '06. All in all, pleasant wine, not quite as seductive or explosive as the '06, but perhaps still worth socking a couple away.

Sunday, March 14, 2010

Nogne Ø Winter Ale

Nogne Ø Winter Ale
Pretty warm these last couple of days, and no hints of snow... deluge, yes, snow, no. Time to knock of the last of the winter ales. 19°P, 30 IBU, 8.5% abv - probably didn't need quite this much warming. Oh well. Bright nose of sour cherry and dark chocolate, mid-bodied, creamy and smooth, cafe au lait, caramel, and a faint bitter earthiness. Easy drinkin', yet again!

[Watch The Two Beer Queers try to pronounce Nogne Ø. I think they'd already had a few. Jovial So-Pac types.]

Friday, March 12, 2010

Umenishiki Sake Hitosuji [1 Koku - 30]

Umenishiki Sake Hitosuji
From Ehime Prefecture's Umenishiki Yamakawa, this sake is a genshu junmai ginjo. Yamada Nishiki rice milled to 60%, SMV +5, acidity 1.9, 17% abv and brewed with #9 yeast. The nose brings to mind cotton candy, and the palate is full, round, and robust, initially quite sweet, but after a lengthy battle, finishes with a dry and acidic bite. The genshu (undiluted) character is evident, but never to excess - not hot or syrupy, but still assertive. Ehime prefecture has been known for delicate, round and sweet sake, unlike the dry and robust sake from neighbouring Kōchi. This sake seems to fall somewhere in between. A very enjoyable brew, one R. likes a lot, enough to siphon off a bottle to take with her to San Antonio this week. The remainder has evaporated with alarming quickness. Onwards!

Tuesday, March 9, 2010

Banff-ff-ff


R. and I spent the last week visiting friends and skiing in and around Banff-ff-ff. A great trip, with mostly amazing weather and great conditions, never mind what the locals think.


Driving Banff-ff-ff-wards.


Banff-ff-ffThe visitor of Banff-ff-ff.


Lake LouiseLake Louise, frozen.


waterstopR. wants you to notice the blue frozen waterfall. Shortly afterwards, she decided that the ice was getting thinner, and that we should turn back around.


Walking back towards the Fairmont Lake Louise... time to go ski.


Ski Lake Louise.


Look at that speed!


"Can we go now?"


XC at the Canmore Olympic Centre. There was also an international biathlon meet on this week, which resulted in us being lapped several times by some Baltic guy who was out training in the wee hours of the morning.


We didn't let him get us down though. It must have been all the extra wind-resistance we had, what with the lack of multi-coloured spandex and all.


A view of Canmore. The white patch at the base of the mountains is the Canmore Olympic Centre, where we XC'd.


Crowfoot GlacierCrowfoot Glacier. Third toe melted already.


Bow LakeBow Lake.


A kite-boarder. I guess it's called kite-boarding.


cliffJust before entering the Columbia Icefields.


AthabascaR. getting stuck in the snow at Athabasca Glacier.


Snowtubing at Mt. Norquay.



Perhaps a bit too much spinning.


Upper Hot Springs in Banff. Perfect post-tubing wind-down. Or un-winding. Spin in the other direction. Driving home, what came on the radio? Hello 80's! Did you know he's Canadian?


Ice-fishing on Lake Minnewonka. Looks warm.


The gondola at Sunshine Village.


R. discovering A&W's root beer float. Can I get that back now?


Downtown Canmore.


Canmore Wine MerchantsA quick stop at Canmore Wine Merchants, where we looked for some Canadian wines and tried a couple of non-Canadian things:

2007 Bichot Bourgogne Vielle Vignes - light, pure fruit, clear, clean, good acidity. Very approachable.

2006 Mas du Soleilla Petit Mars
(Languedoc) - a blend of syrah, grenache and carignan. Fairly extracted, peppery tannins, medium bodied. Big and ripe without tipping over to jammy, palatable stuff.



At the top of the Continental Divide, just shy of 9,000 feet. Criss-crossing between "Sunny Alberta" and "Beautiful British Columbia."


Slopeside sake, the universal refreshment.


"You want me to ski where?"


That wasn't so bad, was it?


No, but it could have been... that back there is Delirium Dive. Just like the K-2.



Well, after a week of skiing, and 80's flashbacks, we just had to rent this teen-scene ski classic! I want my two dollars!


TimbitsFinally, some Canadian culinary delicacies... Tim Horton's Timbits. The other Canadian highlight on this trip has to be Ontario's Creemore Springs Brewery's Premium Lager. Now owned by Molson, but still hand-crafting unpasteurised, unfiltered beer. I'm not usually a big lager drinker, but for this I can make an exception. If only I could find it closer to home!


bye bye BanffA week of sensational weather comes to an end, but only as we head to the airport. A week full of sunny skies and warm-ish weather gets chased out by this snow storm. Stupendous timing!