When I found out that I'd be coming to Yokohama for work, I asked my friend N. to help me find an onsen at which to spend a few days after my conference. My main criteria were that it be in the hills, and that it be quiet, as I wanted to do some writing. What he came up with was a little town in Gunma Prefecture, called Sarugakyo, which he couldn't "recommend," and a hotel that wasn't too keen on having someone who couldn't speak Japanese.
I took N.'s comment as a quirk in translation and decided to go for it. When I arrived at the closest train station (about an hour away), a gentleman approached me, asked where I was heading, and upon hearing, noddingly approved, as if I'd stumbled upon some great secret. Upon looking at the town, which appeared practically dead, it was admittedly difficult to guess at what the secret might be.
After a few minutes walk down a side street, I found the hotel, Yuzu-no-Yado Honden. By gesture, I managed to check into my room, was shown the onsen, and directed to my private dining room, with my name very carefully written out in romaji. Not that it would have been so difficult, as there only appeared to be one other guest in the hotel. So far so good.
I wandered back into town to see if I could buy some sake at the general store, and that's when the secret started to reveal itself. I would never have expected the store to stock so much sake! Knowing fully well that my Japanese was limited to sake terminology, I approached the proprietor for some recommendations. It was pretty clear that he was no stranger to the sake (nor had he missed too many meals!) He proceeded to open an icebox behind the counter, in which there were about a dozen bottles of sake, and started pouring out glasses for the both of us. What a start! After a couple of rounds, his children arrived from school, and he quickly disappeared after them, leaving me to man the icebox.
In the meantime, this fellow shows up, delivering crates of sake. The proprietor returns with an electronic dictionary (his kids', judging by the stickers!) and explains that the delivery guy is a Toji - master brewer - from Homare Koko. So Toji starts opening new bottles, the three of us are standing in the store drinking sake! Great times, didn't want to leave! And I wouldn't have, if I didn't have to get back to Honden for a bath and then dinner (but I did eventually buy some sake to bring back with me!)
And then, wow, the meals, in my private dining room. Tremendous food!
Early the next morning, after getting some work done and having breakfast, I went into town, bought some delicious local "Fuji" apples, and went for a long walk - lots of trails in this area. The leaves were starting to turn.
That evening, another spectacular meal. This is only part of the meal, several other courses would come out each evening.
The hotel's bath, which I had to myself for the entire time. I believe some of the rooms also had private "ohuro." Next time.
Yet another spectacular meal.
I was sorry to have to leave, but leave I did, heading back to Tokyo to meet up with N. and A. They were shocked by my experience, especially the sake. N. felt that most Japanese could never have such an experience simply because they would not have approached the owner as I had done. Perhaps he took pity on me, or perhaps he was just ready to have a few drinks himself! Well, no matter... the three of us headed off to for the most amazing lunch, best tuna I've ever eaten, maguro, o-toro, chuo-toro, sei-toro, baby tuna... the works. I do well here!
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