Tuesday, November 28, 2006

Dubai

burj al arab
R. and I spent the last week in Dubai, to attend the wedding of a friend of ours. R.'s first time, it's been more than 6 years for me, so definitely was curious to see how much has changed. This building, Burj al Arab, had only just been completed when I was here last, and it's been full speed ahead since.

mulled wine
Since were flying BA - "bad airline" - we made the most of it and made a stopover in London to see some friends - it was a non-stop food and wine fest - Malaysian food, pub drinks, mulled wine in Covent Garden, and then helping R. thin the wine cellar (in preparation for his move to join his bride in Shanghai.)

Bastakiyah
Knowing full well that we would be spending ample time in Dubai's hotel amusement park area of Jumeirah, I wanted to make sure we spent some time in Bur Dubai's Bastakiyah area.

XVA Lemonade
The XVA Gallery was just the ticket, an art gallery / boutique hotel / vegetarian restaurant. Ok, not so thrilled about the last bit, but the mint lemonades were very good, and eggs were allowed.

safari
As it happened, friends of ours from Phoenix were also in Dubai visiting family, so we caught up with them for a drink before joining the wedding party. The itinerary started with an evening out in the desert - dune bashing in "eco-friendly" jeeps. Not sure what that means, but it was a lot of fun.

Falconeering
Our man G. was in fine form, jumped right in. You can sort of tell he's Swedish. Here he's saying "ok, Mr. Falconeer, you can take this back. Ok? Hello?!"

desert garden party
It was very beautiful in the isolation of the desert.

khayali
As the sun set, we took light refreshments and were serenaded by a Khayali musician, who perhaps unwisely encouraged us to join in with the percussion.

camp
We then moved to a desert camp where we would spend the rest of the evening.

dinner
Plenty of delicious food...

smoking!
...and entertainments, such as fortune-telling, dancing, and yes, sheesha. Which is a good thing, because I would later have to deal with the ship of the desert...

camels
Ever since my run-in with a sniffly camel in Egypt, I've not had a fond relationship with these beasts.

abra
A group of us took a relaxing cruise on an abra up the Dubai Creek

steerage emirati architecture
We were impressed by the captain's steering skills. The traditional Emirati architecture? Well, maybe not so much.

bazaar
Dubai's bazaar's are a very much sanitised version of the souks one sees elsewhere in North Africa and the Middle East.

Creek
Dubai Creek at night. Surprisingly, there are some good, inexpensive places to eat in this area. Back in Jumeirah? Well, good, but not inexpensive.

Vu
The view at Vu's Bar at Jumeirah Emirates Towers

One & Only
After the wedding, R. and I checked into the One & Only Royal Mirage, in Jumeirah.

magazine
It is evident that Jumeirah is not Bur Dubai.

Palm
A view of Palm Island from Jumeirah beach. That afternoon, we all gathered at the Jumeirah Beach Club for a post-wedding brunch, and in a very unusual instance, it rained!

roofies
On our last evening in Dubai, we planned to have a group dinner at Nina, the very swish "modern" Indian restaurant at our hotel, followed by drinks until the wee hours at the Rooftop Bar. R. had gone for a treatment at the spa earlier in the afternoon, and her rave reviews meant that G. and I had to go and get ourselves rubbed down at the Turkish Hammam. Excellent stuff. I will definitely be back!

bell
G. says "It's time to go!" - the hotel rings the bell whenever new guests arrive. Nice touch.

DFS
And back to the airport for our post-midnight flight... and a peek a the Dubai Airport duty free... the Aston Martin would clearly have exceeded my luggage allowance, so I just picked up a couple of extra boxes of Bateel dates. Next time.

Tuesday, October 31, 2006

Sarugakyo

hills of sarugakyo
When I found out that I'd be coming to Yokohama for work, I asked my friend N. to help me find an onsen at which to spend a few days after my conference. My main criteria were that it be in the hills, and that it be quiet, as I wanted to do some writing. What he came up with was a little town in Gunma Prefecture, called Sarugakyo, which he couldn't "recommend," and a hotel that wasn't too keen on having someone who couldn't speak Japanese.

town
I took N.'s comment as a quirk in translation and decided to go for it. When I arrived at the closest train station (about an hour away), a gentleman approached me, asked where I was heading, and upon hearing, noddingly approved, as if I'd stumbled upon some great secret. Upon looking at the town, which appeared practically dead, it was admittedly difficult to guess at what the secret might be.

Honden
After a few minutes walk down a side street, I found the hotel, Yuzu-no-Yado Honden. By gesture, I managed to check into my room, was shown the onsen, and directed to my private dining room, with my name very carefully written out in romaji. Not that it would have been so difficult, as there only appeared to be one other guest in the hotel. So far so good.

sake shop
I wandered back into town to see if I could buy some sake at the general store, and that's when the secret started to reveal itself. I would never have expected the store to stock so much sake! Knowing fully well that my Japanese was limited to sake terminology, I approached the proprietor for some recommendations. It was pretty clear that he was no stranger to the sake (nor had he missed too many meals!) He proceeded to open an icebox behind the counter, in which there were about a dozen bottles of sake, and started pouring out glasses for the both of us. What a start! After a couple of rounds, his children arrived from school, and he quickly disappeared after them, leaving me to man the icebox.

toji
In the meantime, this fellow shows up, delivering crates of sake. The proprietor returns with an electronic dictionary (his kids', judging by the stickers!) and explains that the delivery guy is a Toji - master brewer - from Homare Koko. So Toji starts opening new bottles, the three of us are standing in the store drinking sake! Great times, didn't want to leave! And I wouldn't have, if I didn't have to get back to Honden for a bath and then dinner (but I did eventually buy some sake to bring back with me!)

dinner at Honden
And then, wow, the meals, in my private dining room. Tremendous food!

pond
Early the next morning, after getting some work done and having breakfast, I went into town, bought some delicious local "Fuji" apples, and went for a long walk - lots of trails in this area. The leaves were starting to turn.

another dinner
That evening, another spectacular meal. This is only part of the meal, several other courses would come out each evening.

onsen
The hotel's bath, which I had to myself for the entire time. I believe some of the rooms also had private "ohuro." Next time.

one more meal
Yet another spectacular meal.

I was sorry to have to leave, but leave I did, heading back to Tokyo to meet up with N. and A. They were shocked by my experience, especially the sake. N. felt that most Japanese could never have such an experience simply because they would not have approached the owner as I had done. Perhaps he took pity on me, or perhaps he was just ready to have a few drinks himself! Well, no matter... the three of us headed off to for the most amazing lunch, best tuna I've ever eaten, maguro, o-toro, chuo-toro, sei-toro, baby tuna... the works. I do well here!

Thursday, October 26, 2006

Yokohama

Yokohama view
My first visit to Yokohama, and sure enough, arrived on Diwali, the Hindu/Buddhist/Jain/Sikh festival of lights. And wouldn't you know it, there's an Indian Merchants' Association in Yokohama, and they were hosting a big Diwali festival right in Yokohama Yamashita Park. After checking into my hotel room (that's the view - Fuji), I went to check it out. My first meal in Japan (well, since I was here last month) was thosai, idli, and a bhel puri. Solid start!

Ramen museum
After registering for my conference and checking out the trade show, I headed off to the Shin-Yokohama Raumen Museum. A foodie amusement park! Examples of different styles of ramen from all over Japan, bars, period costumes, crazy displays. The whole place is nuts, but the ramen was just delicious!

ramen
The Komurasaki ramen, the third of four bowls, was my favorite. A tonkatsu broth ramen from Kumamoto, with crumbled deep-fried garlic and onion sprinkled on top. Tremendous!

Teppanyaki
The next evening, I decided to just stay in and check out "Teppan-Yaki Yokohama", in the basement of the hotel. A private chef, and a tokkuri of Ichi no Kura junmai-shu.

shabu shabu
The next evening, N. came down from Tokyo after work and met me for some shabu-shabu. N. mildly berated me for wanting to jump right into the sake (chastened, I accepted a beer first).

Good eating in Yokohama!

Sunday, October 22, 2006

Seoul Food

Namdaemun
Heading back to Japan today as I've got a conference to attend in Yokohama. Spent the last few days in Korea catching up with my good friend JK. In grad school, JK was my frequent sparring partner when it came to food and music, be it in Oxford or Vienna (where he lived). Since we graduated, he's been teaching at Nottingham University's Ningbo, China campus, and since he'd never been to Korea, we decided to link up to get some good eating in.

Samgaetang
It's been almost 10 years since I lived in Korea, and I'd forgotten how few English signs there are, even in Seoul. There are literally thousands of little restaurants all over the city, most specialising in a specific dish. Unfortunately, if you are unable to read Korean, you'll miss these little places. I was definitely surprised by home much of the language came back to me, and a good thing too. This is samgaetang - a stewed whole chicken, stuffed with rice, ginger, garlic, ginseng, and Chinese dates, and served with daikon kimchi - one of my favorite dishes.

Makkoli
After a massive kalbi (barbecued short rib) dinner session, we headed to a makkoli-jip, located above a warehouse-looking building. Makkoli is a bit like the Japanese nigori-zake, but much fresher, more earthy, less sweet, and more tangy. I far prefer it. Not even remotely an elegant drink!

palace
Some obligatory sightseeing, for JK's sake. Kyongbokkung Palace.

sundial
Fortunately, the sundial indicated that it was time to get something to eat and drink.

Dongdongju
So we wandered down to Insa-dong to one of my favorite jip, this one specialising in makkoli's more refined sibling, dongdongju. R. and my friend G. once famously were unable to descend down the ladder from the seating area after a session with the dongdongju

kangnam
We did manage to get down the ladder though, and went to check out where all the cool kids hang out, Kangnam. They keep getting younger.

friends
That evening, we met up with some old friends of mine who still make Seoul their home. Last call at Walker Hill!

Seolleong-tang
Last call, technically, was in the early morning, so we wandered around the corner from our hotel for some seolleong-tong - beef rib stew. The perfect morning-after restorative, and even at 5AM, the place was packed!

A solid three-day stay in Seoul!

Sunday, October 8, 2006

2006 Philadelphia Dragon Boat Festival

dboat
Another outing at the D-boat festival for the Last Dragons.

kung-fu
As you can see, our Kung Fu was very strong, taking home the gold (ok, "E" Division gold, but gold all the same.)