Wednesday, May 23, 2007

Georgia(n) (wine) on my mind

PM Georgia
Tonight we convened an "emergency tasting panel" of 6 couples for an opening of 7 Georgian red wines. One was labeled as “dry”, one as “semi-dry”, and 5 as “semi-sweet” (but really, all were semi-sweet.) Opinions and preferences were mixed, but despite the rather bizarrely sweet flavours, these were still considered drinkable beyond mere curiosity, and in some cases pleasant, even if only barely wine-like. The top 3, in no particular order, were the Pirosmani, the Saperavi, and the Kvanchkara.

All wines produced by “P.M. Georgia Ltd.” – all wines labeled as organically produced with alcohol content of 12%:

2004 Saperavi: “Dry” – Saperavi grape from Kakheti region. Nose of unidentified sweet red fruit (like fruit punch), Welch’s grape jelly, pomegranate, violets, grape stems, smoke, rubber, and latex. On the palate, light bodied, very little fruit. Mid-palate FELT like lemons. Astringent. Hints of sour cream and cheese. Yeast and barley on the finish, with a suggestion of hazelnuts.

2005 Pirosmani: “Semi-Dry” – Saperavi grape from Kakheti region. Nose of beef blood, gummy bears, kool-aid, “thumbs-up” (the Indian cola). On the palate, light body, tart, astringent, sour cherries, lightly sweet, touch of pepper.

2005 Odjaleshi: “Semi-Sweet” – Odjaleshi grape from west Georgia. Nose of cola, Dr. Pepper, red licorice, sweet incense (!). On the palate, medium to full body, light tannins. Fruit punch, fruit rollups, unripe persimmon.

2002 Kindzmarauli: “Semi-Sweet” – Saperavi grape from Kvareli district of Kakheti. On the nose, herbal, wild mint, mouldy grapes, jam. On the palate, medium bodied, JUICY JUICE!

2002 Kvanchkara: “Semi-Sweet” – no grape information, but from Racha region. On the nose, floral, fruit punch, cheese. On the palate, light bodied, delicate weight. Not as sweet as the other semi-sweets, but still sweet. Touch of acidity. Sasparilla and quinine notes.

2004 Alexandreuli: “Semi-Sweet” – no grape information, but from Racha region. On the nose, cherry cola and grape jelly, cherry Ludens cough drops. On the palate, cough syrup (without the alcohol), fruit punch, cola, root beer.

2002 Akhasheni: “Semi-Sweet” – Saperavi grape from Gurjaani district of Kakheti. On the nose, Sasparilla, cola, violets. On the palate, fruit punch, raspberry jam, overripe strawberries.

Tuesday, May 8, 2007

To Madrid, via Toledo

bull
Our tour of Andalusia came to a close, and though we saw plenty of windmills, mostly of the very modern kind, I probably pipped R. as the Quixotic one. So, we made our way back to Madrid to meet up with Y., R., and the other stragglers, making one last stop along the way.

Toledo
A view of Toledo from the old city.

The Cathedral of Toledo
Holy Toledo - the Cathedral.

helado
There's time for ice cream in Plaza de Zocodover before heading to Madrid.

choco
Next couple of days were very relaxed, walks in the park, checking out motorcycles and foodie boutiques. These chocolates were amazing.

Mister Hindu
Culinary adventurism stopped just earlier, sorry.

Buen Retiro
Me and Y. chilling at the Buen Retiro. Time for a nap!

Saturday, May 5, 2007

Granada

sign
Not to be disuaded, we moved onto Granada, a town full of cats. R. naturally approves.

Albaicin
Entering Albaicin, the old Jewish quarter of Granada.

Alhambra from below
Looking up at the Alhambra.

siesta
Two old boys catching a nap.

Alhambra
Inside Generalife.

looking for kitty
R. found kitties all over the Alhambra, and determined that they were the more interesting sight.

pillars
Patio Leones inside the Palacio Nazaries.

Granada
And a view of the city before heading out.

Friday, May 4, 2007

From Costa de la Luz to Costa del Sol

El Pajaro Verde
By the time we got to Costa de la Luz, it was dusk, but it had stopped raining. El Palmar is basically a two-building "town" - the hotel El Pajaro Verde and someone's house. So we headed to Tarifa for some dinner and had an early night.

whale watching
The rest of our trip very nearly got derailed right here, when R. saw a pamphlet about whale-watching in the Straights of Gibraltar. Fortunately, the '99 Lan Reserva and cooler heads prevailed.

Los Canos
After a half-rainy morning on the beach, in which we failed to out-jog, out-run, and out-sprint a squall, we decided to call it quits, dried off, packed up the car, and hit the road, stopping whenever the rain broke. As it did about 12 minutes later, at Caños de Meca. Similarly dry sunny weather at Conil and Zahara de los Atunes. Oh well.

Vejer
Approaching the white-washed hilltop town of Vejer.

Tarifa
By the time we got to Tarifa, the rain had basically dried up entirely!

churros
Disappointment over missing sunny (but cool) beach weather was dispelled by churros, hot chocolate, and french fries.

The Rock
Next stop was Gibraltar, where our only motivation was R.'s determination to see the Barbary Macaques.

monkey business
...and here are the British subjects in the flesh.

taj mahal marbella
Having satisfied primate desires, we headed along the Costa Brava, in search of a golf club where Y. said had an incredible vegetarian paella. Well, we looked and looked and looked, but we didn't find the road. But, we did find the Taj Mahal in Marbella, so we knew we would have to eat here. Unsurprisingly, turns out the main clientele are the hordes of Britishers who reside here. Another member of our Indian Restaurants Around the World.

Wednesday, May 2, 2007

A visit to Bodegas Fundador Pedro Domecq in Jerez

domecq
It was a dark and stormy night; the rain fell in torrents, except at occasional intervals, when it was checked by a violent gust of wind which swept up the streets. That pretty much captures what happened last night, and carried on through the day. Our original plan was to head straight down to El Palmar, Y.'s favourite spot on the Costa de la Luz, for a couple of days of beach time. Since the weather wasn't cooperating, we decided that we'd pass the time in Jerez, the epicentre of sherry, and move on to the coast that night.

bodegas fundador
We stopped at essentially the first Bodega we saw, Pedro Domecq. Turns out it is also one of the largest in Jerez, and producer of Spain's famous and popular Fundador brandies.

can't take it with you
Not having made a reservation, we joined the only tour going, in Spanish, but we managed all the same. Fascinating to learn about how the different types of sherry are made, including cut-away displays of barrels with the flor forming inside. A heavy scent of sweet sherry pervaded the whole town, really. Some of the sherries were ancient, having been in barrel for more than a 100 years old. We also saw a number of barrels that had been "assigned" to individuals - mostly famous people, monarchs and royalty. Despite my best attempts, I was not allowed to take this barrel.

can take it with you
However, to finish off the tour, there was a tasting for the 8 people in our group (including a young Japanese guy with an impressive command of Spanish), at the end of which, they left us with 3 bottles of sherry and as much time as we'd like. We actually ended up joining another couple for lunch back in town, super friendly people from Barcelona. We had a great, long long lunch (5 hours) with them, talking about our respective travels (they'd been to India recently, they were very keen to know more about our time in the Azores). When we told them we were going to Palmar / Conil, they pulled out the GPS and were shocked that they couldn't find any trace of the place. I guess they must have figured if we were off to unheard of places, we must be ok sorts, and so we left Jerez with a standing invitation to stay with them in Barcelona. Looking forward to that!

From Madrid to Sevilla

Sevilla at Dusk
Good thing R. was coming to Spain to relieve me of Salamanca duties! We crashed at Y.'s apartment in Madrid for a couple of days and then rented a car to take a tour of points south. Nice to get away from the boys for a while, though I knew we'd be seeing them again soon.

Mezquita de Cordoba
Stopping for lunch and ice cream under the Mezquita de Cordoba.

knockers
Check out those knockers!

sevilla
In Seville, on the way to meet Y.'s mate R., who would lead us on a food and drink tour.

tapas
That meant tapas at Bodega de Santa Cruz...

vino
...and on to Solear La Antigua - Amontillado for me, Pedro Ximenez for R...

catedral
Sevilla's Catedral at night. Tomorrow, to Costa de la Luz.