The "Thing" from Aichi Prefecture's Fukui Shuzo, a young-ish brewery, just approaching 100 years, and brewing with the soft waters of the Tenryu river. This is the brewery's only junmai ginjo, brewed from wakamizu milled to 50%, SMV +3, acidity 1.4, amino acidity 1.5, and 16.5% abv. Lightly sweet grassy nose leads to a similarly sweet and grainy entry, modest and light fruit on the mid, with a dry-ish mineral and grain finish. Soft until the final prickle of acidity shows up, with a faint bitterness and light iron tang. At room temperature, there's also hint of mushroom and blue cheese funk which is appealing in its way, but the better pleasure is to be had with a nice chill.
Friday, July 30, 2010
Shikaiou Junmai Ginjo [1 Koku - 4]
The "Thing" from Aichi Prefecture's Fukui Shuzo, a young-ish brewery, just approaching 100 years, and brewing with the soft waters of the Tenryu river. This is the brewery's only junmai ginjo, brewed from wakamizu milled to 50%, SMV +3, acidity 1.4, amino acidity 1.5, and 16.5% abv. Lightly sweet grassy nose leads to a similarly sweet and grainy entry, modest and light fruit on the mid, with a dry-ish mineral and grain finish. Soft until the final prickle of acidity shows up, with a faint bitterness and light iron tang. At room temperature, there's also hint of mushroom and blue cheese funk which is appealing in its way, but the better pleasure is to be had with a nice chill.
Sunday, July 25, 2010
Cantillon Kriek
From Brasserie Cantillon, 5% abv. Nose is nutty, smoky, light dusty cherry. Fresh and electric, sour bite, acidic, lactic, forward carbonation, not necessarily sweet, but finishes a little sticky. What a jolt! A delicious lambic, for sure!
Saturday, July 24, 2010
Russian River Supplication
A brown ale aged in French oak Pinot Noir barrels with three strains of Brettanomyces, Lactobacillus, Pediococcus and sour cherries, resulting in a 7% "sour ale." The overall affect is very cherry, like a light Kriek, not overpoweringly sour by any means. Even the funkiness is relatively mild, at least based on my expectations. All in all, a nicely balanced, well-behaved brew.
Thursday, July 22, 2010
Nøgne Ø Saison
14°P, 25 IBU, 6.5% abv. Cloudy ginger, prominently grapefruit, bitter and refreshing, orange peel notes, but subtle, a very subtle witbier confection/funk on the finish, but only barely so. Hops and malt, attendance noted, not shouting, and I didn't find this particularly sweet. Very tasty indeed.
Tuesday, July 20, 2010
Kan Nihonkai Tokubetsu Junmai [1 Koku - 5]
Kan Nihonkai from Shimane Prefecture has, for the moment, an unusual website setup, in that it provides virtually no information pertaining to its sake brewing activities. Instead, what content is there is related to some persimmon infused beverages. Odd? Well, this tokubetsu junmai is brewed with yeast #10, from gohyakumangoku milled to 60%, SMV +4, acidity 1.5, and 15.5% abv. The nose is medium-full, green apple and roasted rice, along with some savoury notes. Medium bodied, with early acidity, a soft, short mid and a dry, lightly persistent finish. Rich and earthy, with nutty sour/umami notes giving way to sweet yet bitter herbal character. Palatable both chilled and room temperature (which, these days, is close to atsukan), it is certainly more challenging at the latter, with the darker elements more pronounced. Haven't made my mind up on this one, but one thing is for certain, the house style here seems to trend toward sweet/sour.
Friday, July 16, 2010
Jun Tenzan [1 Koku - 6]
This tokubetsu junmai from Saga Prefecture is basically the non-genshu version of Tenzan's Jizake: Saga Saikai #134 milled to 60%, SMV +2, acidity 1.8, and 15% abv. It is also the brew I chose for an aging experiment. This, however, is not part of that experiment. Rich, full and soft on the entry, but all without being overtly so. Dry and assertive on the back end, this has great balance between sweet and sour, bitter and savoury. Like un-salted tears. With a deep chill, this is a bit austere, with the alcohol prominent, but it becomes fuller and thoroughly pleasant closer to room temperature. A very satisfying sake.
Tuesday, July 13, 2010
Rikishi Junmai [1 Koku - 7]
From Saitama Prefecture's Kamaya Shuzo, this is the most sumo action we're going to get until September, as amongst the fallout of the ongoing sumo-betting scandal is NHK's decision NOT to do live telecasts. Even worse for us, our local Japanese channel isn't even carrying the summary highlights. Oy. Wakamizu rice milled to 60%, SMV +4 and 15.5% abv. Fresh herbal nose, guava skin with touches of aloe. Dry entry, several layers and flavours of bitters flanked by earthy sweetness. The bitter/sweet flavours sit and finish on the front, while the back end has a distinctively dry starchiness. A multi-tasking sake, I wouldn't call it super tasty but the mouthfeel is unusual, keeps bringing me back for repeated tastes.
Saturday, July 10, 2010
Chikurin Fukamari Junmai [1 Koku - 8]
From the "depths" of Okayama Prefecture's Marumoto Shuzo, using only rice grown on the estate, and brewed by the farmers themselves. Yamada Nishiki milled to 60%, SMV +4, acidity 1.4, amino acidity 1.3, and brewed with association yeast #9. The nose is clean and mineral driven, R. says it "smells like water." Sweet on the entry, medium-full, round, almost creamy, with good late acidity. A tiny bit heaty on the back end, but overall pretty decent. Interesting to note that this particular sake is blended with a small amount of koshu, no doubt adding to its richness.
Wednesday, July 7, 2010
Shichi Hon Yari Junmai [1 Koku - 9]
From Shiga Prefecture's Tomita Shuzo, the "Seven Spearsmen" is a reference to seven senior Samurai in the service of Lord Hideyoshi, victorious in the Battle of Shizugatake, which took place in 1583 near Lake Biwa, not far from where Tomita Shuzo got its start some 40 years earlier. It is noted on the back-label that the calligraphy on the front is by Kitaoji Rosanjin. I read elsewhere that Rosanjin was not only an artist of great repute, but a restaurateur as well, having founded one private restaurant called Bishoku Club ("Gourmet's Club"). Well, Jun'ichiro Tanizaki was a direct contemporary for nearly the entirety of Rosanjin's life, and also the author of a short story titled, "The Gourmet Club" - I can't help but wonder if these two had much contact, but what an interesting meeting it would have been. At Bishoku Club, over some Tomita sake, no doubt.Apparently one of the smallest producers in Japan, only three brewery staff, who ply their trade only in winter, producing about 270 Koku per year (at our current rate, it would only take us 180 years to drink all that.) Brewed with #1401 yeast and Shiga Prefecture's native tamazakae rice milled to 60%, pressed using the traditional wooden fune box, and singly pasteurised. SMV +4, acidity 1.8, 15.5% abv. Immediately one notices the earthy, sweet-savoury nose and the decidedly ginger colour. On the palate, the sake is both rich and light, with serious wood, earth and mushroom notes, over starch and fruit-sweetness, but finishing in a cleansing, pine cone and cinnamon-laced acid bite. Interesting and tasty, both.
Monday, July 5, 2010
Yuri Masamune [1 Koku - 10]
This is a futsushu from Akita Prefecture's Yuki no Bosha, though apart from a picture of the label, I didn't find any info about this sake on their own website. Nonentheless, the importer says this is Hitomibore milled to 68%, SMV +2.5, acidity 1.3, amino acidity 1.0, 15.5% abv, and brewed with a proprietary yeast. One other technical note of interest: while pasteurised in tank, it is bottled while still warm. Not sure what the intent of that is, but just another one of the innumerable variables the toji has to play with.
Mild, mellow nose, sweet entry, some nutty/earthy qualities. Medium bodied, with a moderate presence, quite soft and round until the very, very last, where a bit of acidity shows up behind a starchy but clean finish. Pricey for a futsushu, but one can imagine if a brewery's regular sake is tasty, they might do special things.
Saturday, July 3, 2010
Dr. Konstantin Frank
That prior deviation to taste beer aside, one can't drive through the Finger Lakes (NY) region without at least trying some wine. In the hopes of finding something palatable (and dry), I decided to check out Dr. Frank's, located on a hillside on the southwestern shore of Lake Keuka. The elder Frank is widely held responsible for having introduced Vitis vinifera to the northeast US, eschewing hybrids and native varietals. This estate has been doing so for nearly 50 years now, and is rather considered one of foremost New York wineries.
A view south, towards Lake Keuka.
Fewer than a dozen wineries surround this lake.
I'd guess Dr. Frank's is also one of the larger wineries in the region, with multiple parcels around Lake Keuka, but also some on neigbouring Lake Seneca as well. As it transpires, for Riesling at least, Keuka is more successful for producing dry wines. Though my 'n' is relatively small and scattered over quite a few years, this could explain quite a bit. Having shied away from Finger Lakes Rieslings before, I wouldn't mind giving the Keuka region another look.
These vines were adjacent to the winery itself, though, sadly, the hostess couldn't tell me what vines these actually were. Still, it must be emphasized that Dr. Frank's is the first Finger Lakes winery that did not charge a tasting fee. Good on ya', Dr. Frank! I only tasted from the main lineup, not the "second", Salmon Run series, which I've understood to be generally higher on the residual sugar across the board.2007 Pinot Gris - Almost pungently herbal nose, onion bulbs. Light and dry, solid minerality, wet stones and citrus. A bit short, but no worse than most PG.
2007 Chardonnay - barrel fermented, but the regimen, as for all the wines, was unknown to my hostess, who was new to a) the country, b) the winery, and c) wine in general. Not sure what's going on down in Australia, but really. This also had an herbal nose, not terribly dissimilar to the PG, was a little worried I'd not rinsed properly, but no, on the palate, it was quite different. Mainly, the oak, while not heavy-handed, was unbalanced. Early days though, I suppose, and it was certainly both dry and silky. Not a bad wine, but too winsome for my tastes at the moment.
2007 Rkatsiteli - this is an ancient, Georgian varietal - well, Dr. Frank was Ukrainian, so probably not too surprising to see this. But what is surprising is this wine - floral and herbal aromas suggesting some delicacy, but the wine is a bit bigger - medium bodied with good acidity for balance, interesting mineral character, talcum, a little cheese-funk, and also a bit of well-placed residual sugar. Tasty wine, on sale for $13. Very yummy at that price.
2008 Dry Riesling - flinty citrus nose, dry and sharp, lots of orange character, both pith and zest. This has earned the right to the moniker "Trocken" - why don't I come across Germans that do the same? What am I doing wrong? Here I learned that the same wine, when grown on Frank's parcels on Lake Seneca, are much sweeter. Lake Seneca in general, it seems.
2008 Gewürztraminer - the least tropical, most restrained example I've ever tasted, dry yet with good natural sweetness. Refreshing and balanced, really well done. $18... a bit ouch, but I suppose compared to the average prices in the region and state, it's probably fair.
2009 Reserve Gewürztraminer - this, on the other hand, is more the style we know, and which one typically either loves or hates. I'm a bit ambivalent about it, but the Mrs. likes the varietal from time to time. This one though brought some grassiness that turned me off. The regular octane for me, thanks.
Looking across the deck towards the smaller tasting room. Yes, tour buses come here too. It's inescapable, isn't it? On to the reds - I skipped the Merlot, the Cabernet Sauvignon, and the Meritage. Life's too short for continual disappointment. As it happens, the highlights had already taken place.2007 Pinot Noir - light crystalline ruby, aromas of bright, brambly fruit, shows promise, but on the palate, it is simply lacking fruit. Or, it is so shut out by the tannins and the oak (not in the over-toasted, over-flavoured style, but in the "ouch I splintered my tongue" style) that it simply needs quite a bit of time to mend.
2007 Fleur de Pinot Noir - the self-described "Beaujolais" style of the house, darker in colour, more restrained in nose, but certainly more forward and less structured than the previous wine. Seemed a bit dull though, and there was a curious menthol aspect which was out of place.
2008 Cabernet Franc - wow, that's a lot of oak. Everywhere. The appropriate varietal characteristics do peek out from time to time, in different places, but there's just so much oak. I can't see why. Perhaps it's just very very youthful, but I'd like to see a neutral version of this.
2004 Chateau Frank Brut - ah well, it had to go pear-shaped eventually. They do follow méthode champenoise here, and it is a Champagne blend - PN/C/PM, with an appropriately yeasty/toasty/zesty nose, but for all the citrus and hazelnuts and good acidity, it's just not very dry at all.
2002 Chateau Frank Blanc de Noirs - this one drops the Chardonnay, and even allows some extended skin contact, giving this wine the palest shimmering hue of pinkishness, but this wine was even sweeter, but with the added effect of rotting fruit. Oy. I should have stopped with the whites.
Despite being a tale of two halves, I still left with renewed hope for the region, especially the whites. Dr. Frank has a few very tasty wines, definitely. And, something I will have to check out, a grüner veltliner is said to be released this fall (their website says that root stock for the varietal is available for purchase, but no wine is listed.) I'm very much hoping that the dry riesling and gewürztraminer are key indicators for its success. And hey, maybe, just maybe, they've chosen the wrong reds... Zweigelt, St. Laurent, and Blaufränkisch, where are you? To be fair, there are already a couple of other producers in the region who are doing the Lemberger bit (our friend Blaufränkisch, in "German").
But enough about wine... how about some sambos at Pudgies? Yes? Yes?
Friday, July 2, 2010
Keuka Brewing Co.
I was driving through the Finger Lakes, around Lake Keuka to be precise, when I saw several signs for Keuka Brewing Co.. This being a moderately significant wine-producing region, it only made sense to check things out. Only been open since September of 2008, started by some adventurous homebrewers, and always offering free beer "tomorrow".
This, and an extremely clean port-a-john outside, are the extent of the facilities. The tasting room inside is very functional, essentially a +30' bar.
White Cap Wheat - light and dry, no strong oester character, and the coriander/orange influence wasn't particularly evident. Can't say this was particularly representative of the style, but it didn't seem to offer much of anything else either.
Honey Blonde - the tasting menu suggests that the usual blonde they make was "developed for the wine drinkers," describing it as light, refreshing, and lower in alcohol. Hmm... not making the connection. The honey blonde doesn't offer much in the way of honey either, and actually I found this rather too foamy. Not sure what was going on here, but otherwise, it was as described - light - lightly malted, lightly hopped. Very light, yet, yet, there was some lingering mouthfeel to it.
KBC Pale Ale - medium bodied but full flavoured. Their description says that it is "lightly hopped", but I found plenty of hoppy character. True, not quite the saturated hops style, but still obvious, and verging on spicy. I found that spice not interesting, but still not a fan of this style of beer.
CCW from bottom left: "base" malt, dark crystal, light crystal, and chocolate malt. Very interesting, highly differentiated aromas.
Briglin Road Red - bittered with Williamette hops, and flavored with Celeia. A fuller, meatier style, herbal, with persistant bitterness and minerality. I thought the hops character here was a bit unbalanced, couldn't really get the malt. Apparently a very popular brew locally.
Bluff Point Brown - this had an invitingly savoury nose of soy and chocolate, and raw, smoky, vegetal chocolate on the palate, yet it was indeed smooth. The vegetality was a bit unbalanced, but perhaps some conditioning might help settle things out here.
Full Sail Stout Ale - my favorite of the lot, dry and smooth but quite light. A clear coffee cherry profile, smokey and spicy, good minerality and bitterness. The one I wouldn't have minded trying more of, and the one they ran out of while I was there.
See? Free Beer Tomorrow. Verdict? Yeah, ok. Better than homebrew, nothing yet that screamed out "must have." I did pick up a bottle of their Imperial IPA though. And if I lived locally, I would pretty happily support this outfit, chalk one up for the little guy and all that, but I didn't really see anything that was breaking any moulds.
Thursday, July 1, 2010
Middle Ages
Middle Ages Brewing Company, that is, in Syracuse, New York. So I was looking for something to do in the Salt City, and the prospect of a brewery tour beckoned. A wee bit crestfallen, I was, when I saw the sign on the door saying "tours by appointment only," and even moreso when, upon enquiring inside, I was informed that they hadn't done a tour in two years. Well, that's helpful, innit?
Well, at least there was a free cask tasting, so onwards. With a name like Middle Ages, some of the names are almost predictably twee. Curiously, the ones I liked most were the ones that were not twee.
Apricot Ale (4.5%) - dry, clear flavour of apricots but not at all in a sickly overpowering way. A pleasant, subtle fruit beer, but only available on tap or in growlers. Not the way forward.
Swallow Wit (4.8%) - I found this very light, with the spicing very light indeed, to the point of undetectability. However, I don't much care for the style to begin with, so I can't complain too much.
Middle Ages Pale Ale (5.2%) - if I'm remembering correctly, most if not all of their hops are sourced from Washington, and this definitely tasted of it. Hops, hops, hops.
Grail Ale (5.5%) - certainly an amber ale, hops and malt. Dunno, the pieces are there but I wasn't much taken with this.
Im Paled Ale (6.5%) - heavy on the Cascade hops, very citrussy and grassy. Just not a profile that suits me.
Old Marcus (6.6%) - this is more familiar and welcoming, more earthy than grassy. Could use a bit more creaminess to be properly satisfying, probably too strong to session, but a reasonable draught.
The Duke of Winship (6.5%) - a porter slash Scotch ale, clearly the chocolate, coffee, and roasted malt was there, in a dry but perhaps a touch too light a package. This could have used a touch of sweetness for balance.
All in all, it was an ok flight. Have been drinking a lot of interesting, complex beers lately, but I'm still waiting to try one that I find really satisfying... thirst-quenching, but also tasty. Well, there is Creemore Springs, but that remains, sadly, out of reach for now.
My mum, however, admired the spent malt, thinking what a wonderful compost this might make.
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