Tuesday, March 31, 2009

Daishichi and Nanbu Bijin [1 Koku - 89]

isshobin

Daishichi Honjozo Kimoto from Fukushima Prefecture. Made from Gohyakumangoku rice. Semaibuai 69%, SMV +1, acidity 1.3, 15.5% abv. Opened at room temperature at the Rieslingfest on Friday, where I didn't really take notes. Sampled at length over the weekend though, also at room temperature. This is the sibling of the Daishichi Junmai Kimoto that J. opened for me in Kyoto a couple of weeks ago. Expressive nose, what one might expect from honjozo, but maybe it’s the kimoto expressing – shellac, rice pudding, jasmine, lots of cinnamon. On the palate, light and clean, surprisingly dry. Light bodied, sitting a bit up front. To my palate, less sweet than the Junmai version. Creamy, a very faint earthiness, some nuttiness as well. More cinnamon. So clean, Daishichi’s kimoto are really just outstanding, very impressed.

Nanbu Bijin Tokubetsu Junmai from Iwate Prefecture. Made from Gin Otome rice, semaibuai 55%, SMV +5, acidity 1.5, #9 yeast, 15.5% abv. Pretty, light nose of Yubari melon (like a richer cantaloupe), white flowers, and rice husks. A restrained, junmai nose. On the palate, medium+ body, viscous, round, with light sweetness. Cool sensation, melon and pear juices. Fully chilled, the acidity only pokes through on the finish, as the sweetness fades, revealing a refreshingly bitter bite. As this warms, the acidity grows – however, at room temperature itself, the alcohol becomes a bit pronounced, so I think the ideal temperature for this is very lightly chilled.

Saturday, March 28, 2009

A (mostly) Riesling tasting

lineup
On Friday, enjoyed a (mostly) Riesling tasting, with 7 Germans, and one each from Alsace, my favoured Austria, and Australia. German/Alsatian wines are not usually my thing. I like my dry wines truly dry, and I’ve just not had good luck with these regions. Nevertheless, this was an interesting opportunity to explore some wines I probably would never have bought on my own. My good man C. and I had just been to buy some sake, so while we waited for the stragglers to arrive, we opened a Daishichi Honjozo Kimoto. Will post notes separately. And then, in order,:

2006 A.J. Adam Riesling Kabinett (Mosel-Saar-Ruwer): A declassified wine. Musky nose, muscat, pear, honey, white flowers. On the palate, up front and short, singularly sweet, pear juice and an unpleasant metallic streak. Good acidity, but just too sweet and not enough interest for my taste.

2002 Blanck Riesling Grand Cru Schlossberg (Kientzheim, Alsace): More restraint on the nose than the Adam, floral, touch of petrol, smoke and honey, but also a prominent herbal/menthol note. On the palate, medium-bodied, off-dry, noticeable but not pronounced viscosity, cut by the acidity. Flavour profile was primarily cider and medicinal. Not bad, but I’d be looking for this only after dinner.

2005 Weingut Josef Leitz Rüdesheimer Magdalenenkreuz Riesling Spätlese (Rheingau): Bright, fruity nose, apple, pear, melons. On the palate, good acidity, sweet apple/pear fruit, but a bit one-dimensional.

1990 Kirchmayer Riesling Solist Altenberg (Weinviertel, Austria): Complex nose, musky, grass, prunes, smoke, petrol, orange hard candies. Medium-full bodied, dry, with bright, tangy acidity. Nutty, with chalk/mineral notes and dried stone fruit on the finish. This is much more to my liking. Challenged for WOTN.

2007 Petaluma Hanlin Hill (Clare Valley, Australia): Nose was promising, restrained, if a bit green/vegetal. All over the place on the palate. Pure alcohol to start, then a burst of rotting tropical fruit, and a not unpleasant cheesiness on the finish being the high point. Mineral and acidity? Perhaps, but this was a mess.

2007 Keller Riesling Trocken von der Fels (Rheinhessen): Interesting nose, a pear, melons, something tropical, but also a nice peppery/herbal component, grass, neem leaf. Medium+ body, good acidity. Personally, I wouldn’t describe this as a dry wine, but with the acidity it was nicely balanced. Citrus and minerals, good length, and a very pleasant bitterness on the finish.

1981 Karthäuserhof Eitelsbacher Riesling "Sang" Spatlese (Mosel-Saar-Ruwer): Tremendous nose, smoky, motor oil, grass, cider, light oxidation. Medium bodied, dry, tangy, lovely acidity. No hint of sweetness. Plenty of texture, creamy, with more motor oil, slate, petrichor, and an unmistakeable grapefruit pith top note. My WOTN, but only just.

2005 Theo Minges Gleisweiler Holle Riesling Spatlese (Pfalz): I really couldn’t imagine a more disappointing transition. Simple , sweet, and flabby. That said, the owner of this bottle thought the performance was not representative of prior bottles.

1976 H. Josef Fries Noviander Honigberg Riesling Auslese (Mosel-Saar-Ruwer): Lovely sherried nose – nutty, caramel, with floral elements. On the palate, fascinating textures, layered – viscous and oily, yet spring-water like at the same time. Hard to describe, but thoroughly delicious.

2004 Joh. Jos. Prüm Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Auslese (Mosel-Saar-Ruwer): Corked.

2002 Alois Kracher TBA #6 Scheurebe Zwischen den Seen (Burgenland, Austria): Kracher doesn’t make a riesling as far as I know. Bright, intense nose of apricots, honey, and butter. Exotic on the palate, apricots, rose, cloves and orange peel. Viscous and sweet of course, with good, but not great acidity.

bife
The restaurant was Portuguese, I had my favorite Bife à Portuguesa - tenderloin served in a bath of melted butter comingled with wine, vinegar, and beef juices, and topped with presunto (like prosciutto) and a fried egg. Served with chips and pickled vegetables. Tremendous.

Sunday, March 22, 2009

Kurosawa Kimoto Junmai [1 Koku - 91]

From the Kurosawa Shuzo (no relation to Akira) in Nagano Prefecture. SMV +2, acidity 1.5, 15.5% abv. Well, this is an enigma wrapped inside a mystery wrapped inside some nori. The back label, entirely in Japanese, says this is "kimoto (yamahai) tsukuri" - made by kimoto (yamahai) method. The problem is that kimoto and yamahai are actually DIFFERENT methods, both involving natural yeast, as in, from the air, but opposite in treatment. So I'm a bit confused. Fortunately, for all the wonderful differences, the results of these two methods are somewhat similar.

So, after all the Daishichi kimoto experience, one might take kimoto/yamahai for granted - the Daishichi I've tried so far (n=1) is clean and light, relatively little of the funk that the kimoto/yamahai method normally brings. The Kurosawa certainly isn't a complete tilt to the other extreme, but it is more familiar - unctuous, rich and full, yet remaining dry, with great earthiness and good acidity. I think of a certain preparation of the Korean dol sot bibim bap, the rice dish in the oven baked stone pot, where the rice forms a crust at the bottom of the bowl, and then you pour water into it to prepare a very light rice "soup" - the nutty, roasted rice notes are what this is all about, as well as a soy milk element on the finish. Very easy drinking, but also good interest and a rather lingering finish. Half an hour later, I can still taste some of the roasted rice notes, which is impressive. My only issue tonight is that this followed the second half of the isshobin of the Rikyubai Kasumi Usu-Nigori, which is much more assertive. I think this will shine more brightly tomorrow, and I think I will give it a go atsukan - warm.

Friday, March 20, 2009

Daikanzukuri Kasumi-shu Usu-Nigori [1 Koku - 92]

This is one of Daimon-san's sake, a "thin" nigori, semaibuai 60%, 17.5% abv. As I understand it, nama (unpasteurised), shinshu (unaged), and genshu (cask strength).

kasumi
Drinking out of the masu - wooden box, made of Japanese Cedar, cryptomeria, filled, as tradition dictates, until the glass overflows into the box. Rich, sweet nose, full of melons, marshmallow, and cream. Plenty of power on the palate, lively acidity, sweet, but balanced, lots of melons. this is just about the only nigori sake that I've ever enjoyed. Now, to the box... sake stored or aged in wood will quickly take on wood flavours, but I didn't realise it was that quick! I don't know if it is because I don't use the masu very often, or because of the high alcohol content, or because of the nama-ness, but the sake has quickly captured a bit of cryptomeria, but not at all in a bad or overpowering way. Instead, there's a pleasant green and herbal bite being added in. That said, I think I'm going to stick to the regular ochoko for the next pours. I also will have to reconsider this allegiance to the isshobin when it comes to nama sake. The character changes too quickly, it's a lot of pressure.

Wednesday, March 18, 2009

Gekkeikan Honjozo "Retro"

retro
Picked this up from the Gekkeikan Museum in Fushimi. Second time around, couldn't resist the attractive packaging. The "retro" in this bottling refers both to the packaging (made for railway commuters, with a traveller's cap/cup - the glass vessel with the metal frame in the picture above, you may have seen something similar on some beer bottles, minus the cup) and the contents inside, which apparently comes from a recipe that was popular some 80 years ago.

Smells fine, steamed rice, melon. It all goes wrong on the palate for me though - sweet up front, just plain alcohol on the back end, like a cheap vodka but only 16% abv. Just not integrated, interesting, or particularly tasty. I'll give it another go, but I think this is destined for cooking.

Monday, March 16, 2009

Kyoto Protocol IV

An Ides of March tasting with J. and S. to wrap up an incredible week in Japan, plus special guest Daimon-san making an appearance.

Mukune-tei
J. and S. made the trip out to Katano-shi to join me for lunch at Mukune-tei.

jitensha no otoko
Back to J.’s neighbourhood in Kyoto, jumping on the bikes and on the way to see the sausage maker.

Sausage Sensei
Yes, J. has a neighbourhood, artisanal sausage maker, and a minor celebrity in his own right.

Bacon!
Some bacon for tonight? A gift from the master. By the way, the guy’s a painter too… that’s his work in the background.

wagyu
Wagyu short rib… what goodness. Another gift from the master. This is too much already. All kinds of culinary martial arts going on this week. I will be coming back to learn sausage-making from this gentleman!

lineup
After a quick visit to the bathhouse, tonight’s line-up.

We kicked off with some more Daishichi sake. Daimon-san made the trek from Katano-shi to join us for dinner, tremendous! Daimon-san doesn’t make any kimoto style sake himself, though he is thinking about it for the future. He remarked on how light and fresh the Daishichi kimoto presented itself.

neba neba
So, Joel had it in for me, thinking this trip was too easy on my palate, so he came up with a neba-neba menu, just to antagonize me. What is it? Well, it’s a slimy consistency which, quite frankly, I think only the Japanese and Chinese are into. The scallop sashimi with yuzu seasoning was tasty, as was the squid sashimi with roe, but the seaweed… Daimon-san thought very highly of this dish.

2002 Mlecnik Chardonnay, Vipavska Dolina, Slovenia. 12.8% abv. Floral, honeyed nose. On the palate, saline, lightly oxidative, but a unique expression thereof. Waxy, interesting tannins and good acidity, with supporting minerality. Excellent wine. All enjoyed.

Movia
2000 Movia Puro Rose. What a unique wine! Peachy-orange-grey colour, initially lots of fizz and foam, but giving way to a lighter frizzante. Nose was full of grapefruit (S.’s one-word description, spot on), ruby red kind, but also lots of strawberries and only a hint of yeast. On the palate, all kinds of gymnastics – full of textures – pillowy, creamy, thick, and rich, yet, still racy and not at all heavy. Great strawberry fruit and cream. Delicious, delicious, delicious. I will try to disgorge this next time and see what the difference is… perhaps two bottles for a side-by-side.

shrimp, bacon & mango
Shrimp, bacon and mango. Interesting combination, great interplay. The Mlecnik did very well this combo.

2003 Weingut Brundlmayer St. Laurent Ried Lamm. A simple wine, soft tannins, juicy, with moderate acidity. Simpler than pretty much any other St. Laurent I’ve ever had, missing the forest floor and juniper elements I’m used to, but very drinkable. I wonder if what's missing here has to do with geography, as most of these reds are grown in Burgenland and Styria, not in the Wachau as this one is.

waygu
The wagyu. I do love raw beef.

1988 Chateau Musar Rouge, 11.5% abv. Rocking wine. Opened for about 3 hours or so before we got into it. Funky barnyard nose initially, softened considerably with time, VA seemingly absent. J. and I were drinking out of Riedel Burgundy and Bordeaux glass respectively, and the difference was pronounced, as was our different preferences. A dark, young looking wine, crystal clear maroon. Intensely flavoured, and clearly opened up as the night went along. The familiar profile was there – macerated strawberries, brown sugars, tomatoes, a good dose of funk and barnyard, and surprisingly tannic, one of the more tannic Musar I’ve tried. Following on from the Brundlmayer, Daimon-san remarked that “this is wine.”

1988 Chateau d’Arlay Vin Jaune, surprisingly, in a rank ordering of the night’s wines, this came last for me. Still quite good, but no fireworks, perhaps this ended up being a bit out of place given the exuberance of the other wines. The nose was intensely walnut driven, actually, a rather complex nose, layered, bright even. The palate, however, was much more mellow, mineral and caramel, with much less fruit. Very interesting. We’ve got the last third or so corked, so we’ll experiment further and see how this holds up.

Daimon-san
Daimon-san explaining his philosphies on life and sake.

2002 Weinlaubenhof Alois Kracher Zweigelt Trockenbeerenauslese #1. A jewel-toned orange and amber colour, brightly peach nose. On the palate, huge peach & apricot, and the recognizable Burgenland botrytis. I would have liked to have seen a touch more acidity, but the intense fruit and perfume were a winning combo. A lovely wine, an unusual wine as well, as this is made from the zweigelt grape, a red varietal – would never have guessed from the appearance or presentation.

hata hata
Hata-hata. A local fish, simply pan fried, with more roe and an aioli? By this point, I was seriously flagging, and Daimon-san had had to hit the road. But J. just kept on cooking.

neba-neba 2
The neba-neba continues. An omelette with blue cheese and natto. Actually, this preparation seriously minimized the sliminess of the natto, and I’m now wondering how it might have paired with the Kracher. The sausages were very good, though, I felt last week’s sausages were better. Perhaps it was just that last week we went with spicier sausages.

Mangosteens
And finally… J. couldn’t resist… mangosteens…

Overall, a fantastic night. Just about every wine hit, no duds, and it was great to have Daimon-san join us – fascinating conversations with him about his travels and experiences (which lent a lot of insight into his sake-making too). I loved that he came right out and said “I know very little about wine”, but his impressions were spot on. Three of my favorite wine-makers for one meal on top of that, and a chance, in a small way, to reciprocate Daimon-san’s hospitality. Now, I’ve just got to get J. and S. out my way.


- Addendum - J.'s Notes:

One last gathering with [V.] before shipping him back to the US after his week long immersion (literally?) into the mysterious world of sake. Kyoto Proto 4 was a fun get together, and we had a couple of new faces, including the Sake brewmaster Toji, Daimon san himself, who had a chance to peek into our world of wine geekdom. We didn't geek too hard, but it was interesting to get a sake master's comments on the wines we served, and get a chance to see wine through his eyes.

We had an interesting range of wines, plus some tasty bites along the way...including hand-made sausages, some marbled "wagyu" (Japanese beef), served both raw and pan seared, and some local made bacon added to the mix. In addition, there were some seafood items and a few unusual Japanese tastes that I had to run by [V.], just so he could take a few more exotic memories home with him.

Two Slovenian wines kicked things off......and I came away feeling like this is a region I want to know better.

2000 Movia Puro, Brut Rose, Collio, Italy? Slovenia? Both? Apparently the winemaker's vineyards straddle both countries. Biodynamic, the 2000 is a blend of mostly Chardonnay, Ribolla and a bit of Pinot Noir (it seems the percentages change, depending on the year). Non-dosage and requires either disgorging, or enjoying right along with the lees. We weren't sure what we wanted to do, so in the end opted to pop and enjoy, cloudy and all. Popped and fizzed nicely over the table (LOL!) and in the glass was a lovely coppery peach, translucent cloudiness. I found a distinct, but subtle tone of fresh pressed cider notes from the nose, a touch of yeast and herbs. With air, crushed ripe strawberry aromas, though on the palate overall, the flavors were much more muted and dry. Much of the petillance seemed to fade quickly, though there was a nice pillowy texture of lightness on the palate for a while. Sometime later, I checked back in and with all the petillance gone, the wine seemed to take on the character of grapefruit juice, nearly un-wine like. Certainly off the beaten path flavors and an interesting wine.

2002 Mlecnik Chardonnay, Bukovica, Slovenia, 12.8% - Honey gold in glass and a reticent nose at first, so I threw half the btl into a decanter and we went off to the public bath. Upon return, the wine had opened a bit more. Lemon rind, a bit of wood polish, pine resin notes on the nose and a striking salinity on the palate which spun into mineral and yellow grapefruit notes. Long finish. This stuff was fascinating...I've never experienced such a salt water/mineral mouth as this before. As time passed and the wine warmed, the body weight seemed to increase and it brought out even more of a briney seawater like component. Good bit of bite on the finish. Very interesting stuff. Worked well with various dishes.

2003 Weingut Brundlmayer, St. Laurent, Ried Ladner, Kamptal, 12.5% - Deep transparent violet. Ripe dark fruit, plums on the nose with a touch of yeast. On the palate a fresh, fruity wine...easy going quaffer as they say, though not quite at an entry level price point. I am a huge fan of the Brundlmayer whites, at all price levels, so I had high hopes for this first red Willi B. I was a little underwhelmed here actually. Nothing wrong with the wine, but I felt that there are a lot of reds that taste like this and I've been here, done that already. Decent and polite, but not a lot of intrigue beyond that, especially given the 2 wines preceding it.

1988 Chateau Musar, Gaston Hochar, Bekaa Valley - Classic, fecund Musar barnyard at first. With air, ripe cherries and strawberry compote are added to the compost. Later, deep pinot like forest floor, earth, dark fruit, then plum and crushed pine needles. Very fresh and rich on the palate without being heavy. Great balance in this bottle and showing traits closer to Right Bank Bordeaux than the Rhone which I find Musar sometimes shows, with the plum notes, dark earth and barnyard. Add to that some brighter red cherry fruit notes, ripe acidity, beef juices, bouillon. Long finish. Really hard to believe this is over 20 yrs old, and showing like a fresh youth. Thoroughly enjoyable wine. Thanks for sharing this, [V.] My fondness for this maker deepens.

2002 Kracher, Nouvelle Vague Zweigelt TBA, #1, Burgenland - 12.5%. Copper gold in glass. Vivid aromas of apricot, fresh plum, raisin, lemon and umeshu (green plum wine). Rich attack of apricot, apricot liquer, buttery mid-palate, bright acidity and a long finish of toffee and honey. This was a tasty way to wrap up the evening and elicited yums and ah's from everyone.

Looking forward to next time, [V.]...and we hope you made it home safely, with all those 1.8L bottles intact...

Saturday, March 14, 2009

Mukune Internship - Farewell

“
Morning comes to the Kura. Today is our farewell from the program. An incredible week, exhausting and exhilarating. Some final photos to sum things up.

“
After breakfast, we took a little hike to see the water source for the Daimon Shuzo.

“
The water is collected in a series of tanks, where sediment and such are filtered (not chemically).

“
And finally... where it all starts...

As Daimon-san says, we've not really graduated from this program, but commenced on the next. Looking forward to it.

Mukune Internship - Team Party

“
The farewell party started...Drinks table.

“
Starters, including toro, endomame with cod roe, and chicken wings.

“
Blind sake. Way off, once again... this was a 12 year old junmai, 15%, 55% semaibuai. I got the junmai and the 55%, and I recognized it as obviously koshu, but I was off by a factor of 4, and I guessed the alcohol to 17%. Well, I take comfort in Daimon-san saying that blind tasting sake is very difficult.

“
Pork, shabu-shabu style.

“
Another blind koshu, 18 years old this time... ridiculous.

“
Nabe ingredients.

“
Yet another koshu...

“
Mukune craft beer.

“
Sake jello dessert.

Right, so things winded up relatively early, so we moved on to niji-kai, the after-party... more sake... more nama genshu, more retro sake... and then... things got strange...

“
Egg dog selection.

“
Pizza Egg Dog. "This sandwich is so juicy and mellow. Please enjoy the gentle flavor."

“
Combini fried chicken...

“
...and fried beef/potato cutlet.

“
Basically, this is all the result of a failed attempt at finding a ramen shop... so, Yebisu in front of the mini-mart.

“
And finally... san-ji-kai... the after-after-party.... a wide selection of ramen and beer... oh my, oh my...

Go to Mukune Internship - Farewell

Mukune Internship - Day 5

“
Some of Mukune's many offerings.

“
Bottle washing machine.

“
Bottle drying rack.

“
Filling machine. They haven't done any filling while we've been here.

“
However, there have been lots of filled bottles.

“
Cylinders of distilled alcohol for honjozo style sake. 95% abv.

“
A view towards the restaurant reception, from the brewery floor.

“
The reception area.

“
Bags of sake kasu - lees.

“
Spent a part of the morning cleaning up around the Yabuta - pressing machine.

“
And the remainder transferring the koji. Here, Kashira is loading the rice into the separator. My task was to handle the rake... I was sort of Koji Croupier in the Sake-land Casino.

“
Transferring the koji rice to the robot room.

“
The venting of the steam from the rice. Prepared the last batch of rice for the batch of sake that, apart from the beginning of the yeast starter, our group has had a hand in every step of production.

“
Bottle washing.

“
A whisk for use with sake made with the foaming type of yeast. While non-foaming yeasts are new, there has been widescale conversion to these types because it is cleaner and allows larger batches of sake to be made.

“
The cold storage room, where the super premium stuff is stored.

“
Koshu - old sake

“
It's a beauty!

“
Mountains of Koshu!

And now for the sake geek's dream afternoon... in the lab!

“
Measuring nihon-shu-do for Batch 11, a junmai daiginjo. Must be done at consistent temperature, so I had to warm it in a bath.

“
Withdrawing a sample for alcohol analysis.

“
The new device.

“
The old way, a sort of distillation set-up.

“
Siphoning sake for analysis.

“
10ml into two beakers, for acidity analyses.

“
Adding Sodium Hydroxide to neutralise the acid.

“
Doing the amino acid analysis.

“
Good times!

“
Testing Batch 18 shikomi... didn't taste great... yet.

And that's the end of the day's work. Party time approaches... time for a power kip.

Go to Mukune Internship - Team Party