We've been trying to visit Turkey for a number of years, but the three previous attempts were thwarted by earthquakes and bombings. This was the fourth try, and a successful one at that.
The first half our trip was in Kapadokya, famous for its bizarre landscape dominated by towers of volcanic tuff. As we would be reminded repeatedly, and much to the chagrin of our friend K. (Istanbul native, historian/geographer, and travel companion), it was the centre of the Hittite empires, and is dotted by caves and underground cities used by early Christians as hiding places. Not only that, but it's a centre for winemaking, so we had double-happiness.
Entering the cellars of the Kocabag winery in Uchisan, where we saw the concrete vats used for open fermentation, as well as the tasting room. The line-up wasn't spectacular - in broad strokes, rough, acidic, light on tannins and fruit, and starting at 15 euros, not good value. Still, we enjoyed at least one of the wines, a red called Kalecik Karasi.
Lunch was a delicious spread of manti (Turkish ravioli in a fresh yogurt sauce), adana kebabs, and fresh bread with zaatar (a blend of 40 spices) and olive oil. To drink, the 2005 Turasan Peribacasi. Reminiscent of a light, restrained, and earthy pinot noir, this was the best red wine we had in Turkey. A really hot day, so we had this lightly chilled and it hit the spot. That evening, we tried the 2004 Turasan "Cappadocia Wine" and the 2003 Turasan Bogazkere, which, while substantially better, was still rather aggressive. A mixed bag from Turasan.
The Church of Constantine-Elene in Mustafapasa (the Greek name is Sinasos), with grape and vine motif on the tiles.
This was supposed to have been a pre-lunch snack. The hotel recently moved their wines from an ancient cave to a temperature controlled room, so we took a flier on this bottle - the label was pretty much destroyed by the humidity, but the wine was intact. This one is a 2002 Taskobirlike Bogazkere, which my Turkish friends tell me is one of their best red wine grapes. It was a bit...funky... I must admit to liking funky.
Early one morning, it was time for a hot-air balloon ride over Goreme Valley. This had been recommended to us by everyone we knew who had been to Kapadokya. Usually, "must-sees" are not, but this was different... simply spectacular. The small cultivated patches are, as often as not, grape vines.
Post-flight celebration with Turkish "champagne". Real Champagne has nothing to fear.
Kapadokya is dotted with caves in which the locals used to hide from various invaders. These cave networks are extensive, and had communal kitchens, churches, mortuaries, meeting halls, and yes, even this subterranean winery! This particular underground city is called Kaymakli, and it is estimated that up to 15,000 people could live here. They've excavated about 8 levels, but estimate that there as many as 12 more below.
So, that was Kapadokya, this is Istanbul.
Istiklal Caddesi, the pedestrian stretch on the Beyoglu side. Venturing off into the quiet side streets, dozens and dozens of restaurants, cafes, and chances to drink arak.
We met up with K., his sister and her husband at the Mikla in Pera for dinner and drinks. The place is, in a word, fabulous. At all costs, this will be our residence the next time in Istanbul. The views and atmosphere at the terrace bar, at sunset, are incredible. The food at the restaurant one flight below did not disappoint, and the wine list culls from the best of what Turkey has to offer. In our case, the highlight was the 2004 Corvus Aeolis from Bozcaada, an island in the Aegean Sea. A cuvee of cabernet sauvignon, bogazkere, okuzgozu, syrah and kuntra. The nose and even the taste recalled that of an amarone. A pleasant surprise.
Cats also seem to lead a nice life here.
Nuts and dried fruits in the Kapali Carsi, the Grand Bazaar. On the whole, it was a lot more sterile than we'd been expecting after previous experiences in Egypt and Tunisia.
But still, Turkey delights.
Continuing in our series of Indian Restaraunts Around the World (IRAW), we found a venue across from Aya Sofiya in Sultanahamet with terrace seating and wonderful views. The food was fine, and we even had a very pleasant rosé, "Lal" by Kavaklidere.
All in all, a great trip, with a generous dosing of unfamiliar varietals. Fortunately, from Turkey we are heading to Austria for a wedding, and the wine situation should improve dramatically.
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