Monday, December 27, 2010

Shaving with Sake

Sometimes those luxury products get a bit out of hand. For example, this "sake-infused shave cream"... 6oz for $35!!! Shipping and handling not included! Channeling my inner "Mrs. I can make it at home for nothing", I made it at home for nothing, and I didn't even require a small aubergine.



Ok, not completely for nothing... but definitely a better value than Kyoku! Quick to make, and simple ingredients; my last block of glycerine soap (the vegetarian stuff, it's Kosher too!), containing some lye, various oils, proteins, and fruit extracts. Good stuff. A packet of sake kasu - lees. It's only Hakutsuru, but it's junmai, and that's good enough for me. And finally, a splash of the Jun Tenzan Tokubetsu Junmai that I had open, for good measure.


Mix sake kasu with a little sake, to liquefy, melt the soap, heat to pasteurize, and pour into your mould.


Poured into my shaving bowl and allowed to set. Looks like, well, sake kasu.



Foams very nicely, smooth, but stiffly peaked. Looks promising.



No troubles with application. Feels heavy, definitely smells like sake kasu!


Nice feel, good resistance.


Coats well, glides well.


Clean and smooth. Unsurprisingly, this is much better than your standard drugstore product, the equal of any luxury creme I've tried. I must say though that my skin feels even softer and more moisturized than I expected. So, there might just be something to this sake-infusion. Maybe I should take orders...

Thursday, December 23, 2010

Aging Sake - Year 1

Jun Tenzan Tokubetsu Junmai aging experiment
One year (+1 week) down in my little aging experiment. To recap, a year ago I set aside a dozen bottles of Jun Tenzan Tokubetsu Junmai to be aged in two groups, the first ("cold") refrigerated at relatively constant temperature of 3°C (37.4°F), the other ("warm") in our passive, below-ground basement wine cellar, where the temperature varies between 13°C (~55.4°F) in the winter and 21°C (~70°F) in the summer.

Saga Saikai No. 134 milled to 60%, SMV +2, acidity 1.8, 15% abv. My tasting note from a year ago: almost paradoxically balanced, being both full and light, clean but with plenty of flavour, sweet with a sour-dry finish. In a word, satisfying.

For the test, both bottles tasted at "cellar temperature". On the right, the "cold" bottle. Nose is mild, lightly sweet, stony and hints of cinnamon. Sweet, clean entry, light weight but building, smooth, soft, lightly cinnamon spiced finish. Cooling, a touch rounder than last year, but still delicious.

On the left, the "warm" bottle - although visually the photo exaggerates a bit, this sake was identifiably more yellow than the "cold". More pronounced cinnamon on the nose than the "cold", rice pudding, hint of caramel. A bit drier on entry, definitely more complex flavour, nutty, savoury, and more starchy as well. Longer finish, a warmer sake.

So, one year in, I'd call this a fairly significant diversion. Should be interesting to see what happens a year on down the road.

Monday, December 20, 2010

Hakurei "Koda" Tokubetsu Junmai


One more from Kyoto Prefecture's Hakurei, picked up on a day trip to Amanohashidate. Tango Yamada Nishiki, grown under contract for the brewery by local farmers, milled to 70% (60% for the koji, SMV +3, acidity 2.0, and 14.5% abv. Some call the Kyoto style feminine, in reference to the softness and sweetness of the local product. This is that in spades, perfumed, not quite dainty, almost voluptuous, sweet and soft, on the edge of becoming wobbly but just held together, and very, very easy to drink.

Friday, December 17, 2010

Mastiha


From the Greek island of Chios, this is an... unusual beverage. From the land that brought us retsina, here is an anise-flavoured spirit "seasoned" with the resin from the mastic tree. Yes, that mastic, the original chewing gum. Gnash, gnash. But not this item from Myskinos, not chewy. Instead, a bewildering mish-mash of evergreens, turpentine, lime peels, and sweet anise. Oddly soapy taste too. Perhaps not coincidentally, mastic is use in soap-making, amongst other non-digestibles. Strange, strange, strange. Needs a generous dose of ice to louche. Requires an even more generous dose of water in order to enjoy. If it were up to me (and it is), I'd only have it as a digestif. Not entirely sure it'd be the last thing past my lips of an evening though.

Sunday, December 12, 2010

Rikyubai "Wandering" Junmai Daiginjo


One last souvenir from my recent visit to Mukune, a junmai daiginjo made from omachi rice. Milled to 50%, SMV +1, acidity 1.9, amino acidity 1.1, 901 yeast and 16.4% abv. Appreciably nutty, steamed fruit, slighty herbal nose. If Mukune has a signature, it's the slight tendency to sweetness and an undercurrent of savouriness - both on display here, in a slightly amplified volume, but remaining in balance, very nice bitterness on the finish which fades to reveal a clean cinnamon and rice starchiness. Another full-of-personality daiginjo!

Monday, December 6, 2010

Ume no Yado Junmai Ginjo

Ume no Yado Junmai GinjoFrom Nara Prefecture's Ume no Yado, Yamada Nishiki milled to 50%, SMV +3, acidity 1.5, and a hefty 17.5% abv. Rich fruity nose, full of cantaloupes, carrying over into the palate, which tastes sweet, rich and concentrated, round and full, but equally balanced by a rising late acidity and well-placed bitterness on the edges. Perfumed without getting floral, very enjoyable and easy to drink.

Friday, December 3, 2010

Wild Rose Barley Wine

Wild Rose Barley Wine
Picked this up in Canmore, Alberta earlier this spring. Wild Rose is a Calgary-based craft brewery, and this came highly recommended. Brewed in January 2009, aged for a year before release, and a full-on 8.7% abv. Poured a brassy red copper, with little head to speak of, and almost no lacing. Nose is malt-forward, mild prune and chocolate. Surprisingly light, not terribly chewy, malt-dominant, a slightly funky chocolate note towards the finish, which was sharp, moderately dry and assertive. Not sweet, not heaty, but still packing a wallop. I think I need to lie down now.

Tuesday, November 30, 2010

Hakurei Junmai Ginjo Daikarakuchi

Hakurei Junmai Ginjo Daikarakuchi
From Kyoto Prefecture's Hakurei, located near Amanohashidate on the west coast. Yamada Nishiki grown on the Tango peninsula, milled to 60%, SMV +10, acidity 1.7, and 15.5% abv. Sweet and floral nose, followed by a sweet and savoury entry, medium bodied, starchy and unsurprisingly, very dry, leaving a long, clean, astringent, almost ringing sensation in the mouth. I'm digging this, and the bottle has a pleasantly different shape, with a more elegant but abbreviated neck - I'm enjoying looking at this bottle, and then I'm enjoying drinking the contents. Simple pleasures.

Wednesday, November 24, 2010

Daishinsyu Junmai Ginjo

Daishinsyu Junmai Ginjo
From Daishinsyu Breweries in Nagano Prefecture, which, it seems, has proven that sake-brewing is the elixir of long-life, as the previous Toji semi-retired just a couple of years ago at the age of 92! Or perhaps it is just their sake? This one is, perhaps a bit unusually, 100% Yamada Nishiki. Most of the sake here is brewed with Miyama Nishiki rice, and except for the Yamada Nishiki, all of it is grown in Nagano. Perhaps this is why they don't offer any more information on this sake than that it is milled to 60% and clocks in at a modest 15% abv. Nonetheless, long life! Nose is elegantly light, more floral than fruity. Clean alpine flavour, soft, sweet fruitiness followed by a sweet grain alcohol finish that does not burn. Yum! Now need to get some Nagano soba in me!

Saturday, November 20, 2010

Kubota Senjyu


The tokubetsu honjozo from Niigata's largest brewer, Asahi Shuzo. One of the most recognisable sake brands in Japan, for sure, a hugely popular pub-sake. A bit expensive, but very very reliable. R.'s first sake in Japan, I believe.

Kung Pao!!!!!


Gohyakumangoku milled to 55%, SMV +6, acidity 1.2, and 15.5% abv. Invitingly creamy nose, bananas but also stoniness. Sweetish, round entry, sticky midway carnival things, but with a solidly starchy mid and a clean, refreshing finish, very pleasant acidity. Alcohol well integrated all the way up to room temperature, I'd say it's a touch fuller than a lot of Niigata-sake, but that clean finish is benchmark stuff. Versatile, and did I mention reliable?

Tuesday, November 16, 2010

Sake Monogatari Aki-agari Ginjo Hiyaoroshi


One more souvenir from Osaka Prefecture's Mukune, a singly-pasteurised brew, and the first batch of fall-release sake. Gohyakumangoku and Nihonbare milled to 60%, SMV +3, acidity 1.6, 17.5% abv. Floral nose with darker wood and sour roast rice notes. Moderately big and round on the entry, caramel and wood spice on the mid, followed by sharp acidity and assertively dry finish. This is all transitional, bold and lovely for a cool autumn evening.

Saturday, November 13, 2010

Tweed!

Philly Tweed Ride today.

Lots of two-wheelers and tweed. Tricycles and tweed. Penny farthings and tweed...

Thursday, November 11, 2010

Genbei-san no Ginjo Genshu Namazake


From Kyoto Prefecture's Fushimi district, Yamamoto Honke exports a number of sake to the U.S., none of which particularly hold my attention, let alone affection. Which is a shame, because this stuff rocks! 17.5% of fragrant, syrupy, sharp and intoxicating goodness. If this is indeed Mr. Genbei's brew, Inari bless him and all of the brewery's 333 years (yes, founded in 1677!) Served on tap from a tank sitting squarely in the brewery's on-site specialist chicken restaurant, Torisei, which is equally a cracking good time. Not to mention the excellent sake lees soft-serve ice cream available at their shop next door. Forget Ryoanji, Kinkakuji, Kiyomizudera, Heian Jingu and Arashiyama, this is the highlight of any visit to Kyoto.

Monday, November 8, 2010

Rikyubai Nama Tokubetsu Junmai

Rikyubai
From the brewery of 1000 names, no, really... Daimon Shuzo, Mukune, Sakahan, Rikyubai... picked up last month on what is turning into an annual visit to Katano, just outside of Osaka. Gohyakumangoku milled to 55% for the koji, Nihonbare milled to 60% for the main mash. SMV +5, acidity 1.7, amino acidity 1.2, #901 yeast and 15.8% abv. A particularly nutty, high-toned nose, medium-bodied sweetness on the entry and a sweet/sour/savoury finish, joined together by lightly syrupy fermented melon on the mid-palate, which is where most of the nama-ness showed. Yum.

Saturday, November 6, 2010

Sake Daze


Manhattan, Wine of Japan sake portfolio tasting. A quick survey, focusing on the new, but also noting some changes:

Akita Homare (Akita Prefecture)
  • Pride of Akita Junmai Daiginjo: Akita Sake Komachi milled to 41%, Komachi yeast, SMV +0.5. I remember being surprised by this last year, as it was very rich and full-flavoured for a daiginjo, and surprisingly dry for such a low SMV. This was quite different, lightly earthy nose, but pretty cool, clean, and lightly sweet. Go figure


Banshu Ikkon (Hyogo Prefecture)
  • Kaede no Shizuku (Maple Leaf Rain Drop) Junmai Ginjo: Hyogo Yumenishiki milled to 60%, SMV +3. Hello? Last year this was all campfires and bacon on the nose, this year softly perfumed. Palate was very similar, mild and smooth.


Sanwa Shuzo (Shizuoka Prefecture)
  • Garyubai Junmai Daiginjo: Yamada Nishiki milled to 40%, SMV +2. Ay, still a lovely drop. Smooth, soft, caressing, perhaps a touch too sweet to be properly mizumitai.


Kan Nihonkai (Shimane Prefecture)
  • Ryoshizake Junmai Ginjo: Yamada Nishiki and Gohyakumangoku milled to 50%, SMV +4. Fresh, mild nose, soft, light, round, delicate, clean, but with a firmly starchy dry finish.
  • Mizusumi no Sato Junmai Daiginjo: Yamada Nishiki milled to 40%, SMV +3. More fruitiness than the Ryoshizake, but with a milder nose than last year, where the sour nuttiness didn't quite agree with me.
  • Chokarakuchi Junmai Genshu: Gohyakumangoku milled to 65%, SMV +15!!!: Powerful and earthy, full-bodied, almost syrupy melon, but also a bit hollow-feeling on the mid and hot on the finish. No, not quite my thing, this place.


Ohara Shuzo (Fukushima Prefecture) - a new brewery for me.
  • Kurashikku Junmai Daiginjo (2005): Yamada Nishiki, and SMV +1. Savoury nose, fried onions, also more fried onions on the palate, but relatively dry. Odd. Aged in the bottle.
  • Kangenkaku Junmai Daiginjo (2009): Yamada Nishiki, SMV +1, acidity 1.5, amino acidity 1.0, #9 yeast. Apparently the same brew as the Kurashikku J.D., and much cleaner and enjoyably sweeter.
  • Kurashikku Junmai: also from Yamada Nishiki, SMV +2. Notably pungent and earthy on the nose, soft and round, with an earthy and savoury finish. Not my favorite.


Maihime (Nagano Prefecture)
  • Maihime (Dancing Princess) Junmai Ginjo: Miyama Nishiki milled to 50%, SMV +3. Almost the opposite sake from last year, which I'd found rich and mellow, and distinctly chocolate-y. Weirdly, this year's description calls this a mellow sake, whereas last year's suggested it was light and dry - more appropriate this year! The nose, however, was sour, almost pungent, with shellac tones. Strange.
  • Maihime Tokubetsu Junmai Karakuchi Ki-ippon: Miyama Nishiki milled to 55%, SMV +6. Clean nose, light and pine. Sharply dry, slightly astringent, not as pleasant as the JG.
  • Maihime Tokubetsu Junmai Karakuchi Ki-ippon: Curiously, they were pouring a second bottle with exactly the same name, yet they said that this was a new product, not in the catalog, and not available for export. It certainly tasted different, rather more sour and assertive, with a softer, sweeter finish.

    Here it is, the new product.



Kanazawa Nakamura (Ishikawa Prefecture) - the highlight here should have been being able to try the cup sake version of the Nichiei Junmai which is intended to be served frozen (now called Kaga no Yukizake. Only, they served it just chilled. Bad form! Less information seems to be the style of the day as well, very little technical info available.
  • Nichiei (Glory of the Sun) Junmai Daiginjo: All I know is this is SMV +5 (last year's was Yamada Nishiki milled to 50%, SMV ±0, acidity 1.5, amino acidity 1.4, yeast #14)... hmmm. Come on now! This was tasty, sweet, earthy and melon fresh on the nose... how they'd do all that? Entry is sweet and musky but followed a huge slope down to a clean and very dry finish. Nice!
  • Nichiei Junmai Ginjo: Yamada Nishiki, sour and pungent nose, light and smooth, with sour and savoury edges. Much preferred the J.D. What's going on with me?


Toshimori (Okayama Prefecture)
  • Sake Hitosuji Akaiwaomachi Junmai Daiginjo: Akaiwa Omachi milled to 38%, SMV +4. Another full-bodied daiginjo, dry, nutty, sour, earthy, with good acidity. Finally, a consistent sake! Next!


Ozawa Shuzo (Tokyo Prefecture) - after seeing that Sake and Kimono fellow's blog, with the video at Sawanoi, I needed to have a little sip, even if I already know I like their stuff. So, a bit of Genroku Junmai for me: Akihikari milled to 90%, SMV -8. To refresh, this sake is produced in a manner and style from a period in the late 17th century. In addition to the more coarse milling, the mash is fermented in casks made of sugi. Clearly a different style of sake.


Shirakawago (Gifu Prefecture) - having failed to get to Shirakawago for the Douburoku Festival, despite having actually been "in the area" (will I forgive myself?), I felt compelled to visit the table and tell of my woes. I was rewarded with a sample of a new product, yet to be released I was told, not even in Japan. Maybe they were just trying to make me feel better?


This, on the right, is Awanigori Junmai, a bottle fermented sparkling nigori-zake! It is only slightly bubbly, but nicely dry, sort of like that Bijofu sparkling nigori J. and I had on our last night in Kyoto. I do like this trend of drier sparkling sake. It's more enjoyable and less of an oddity.


Otani Shuzo (Tottori Prefecture)
  • Takaisami (Hawk's Bravery) Nakadare Junmai Ginjo: They told me that this is a new product, different from last year's in that it is shizuku - drip pressed. I thought it tasted rather the same, which is to say, it was very nice, running the gamut, sweet entry, starchy and dry mid and a clean finish. Solid sake.



Tenryo (Gifu Prefecture)
  • Hidahomare (Pride of Hida) Junmai Ginjo: Hidahomare milled to 50%, SMV +3, and brewed with a flower yeast. Rich, aromatic nose, both savoury and fruity, contrasting palate - bright but mild, light and starchy.
  • Koshu Junmai Daiginjo: Hidahomare milled to 50%, SMV +4, aged 3 years in the bottle at 6°C. I liked this last year, and no change - rich, but soft and elegant, nice acidity, satisfying.



Kitagawahonke (Kyoto Prefecture) - this Fushimi brewer, known for the brand Tomio, was not present last year, but the president's wife was on hand, and very happy to hear that I'd just recently been to Kyoto, and enjoyed their Hiyaoroshi. Effusive invitations to visit followed.
  • Tomio Tokubetsu Junmai: brewed from "organic" Nihonbare rice, this had a particularly full and nutty nose, in contrast with its taste - light, mild, and starchy, fairly dry with sour highlights - tasty, and slightly askance of the typically soft Fushimi style.



Asabiraki (Iwate Prefecture)
  • Nanbu Touji Tokubetsu Junmai Kimoto: Hyogo Tamasakae (organic) milled to 60%, SMV +2, acidity and amino acidity 1.5. Fruity nose, pleasantly nutty and savoury.
  • Zen Junmai Ginjo: A new product, Gin Otome milled to 55%, SMV +1. Milder and cleaner than the Zen Tokubetsu Junmai but with a similar nuttiness. Only available in a 400ml bottle, an unusual size.




Last stop was at the Kitaya table, where shacho was on hand. Evidently, he remembered our night at the karaoke bar earlier in the year, as I was greeted with a big bear hug and enthusiastic shaking of hands! Followed by a generous helping of his Junmai Daiginjo Kasumizake, a lovely usu-nigori which I can't get enough of!

Thursday, November 4, 2010

López (de Heredia) Tonight!


A super evening with Maria Jose López de Heredia. The wine lineup was certainly not the highlight, being mostly new releases, for a wine that takes decades, even generations to shine. The food was good, very good sometimes, but not amazing. However, the company more than made up for it, with my friend B. having flown in from Phoenix just for the dinner, Maria Jose being extremely convivial and charming, and Monica, the importer, rounding things out nicely. The important takeaways? Maria Jose has a slight distaste for engineers, likes sake, and the winemaker first mentioned as amongst her favorites? Why, Chateau Musar of course!

First Course:

- Boquerones en Escabeche - house cured anchovy, marinated peppers, pine nuts - these were maybe the most delicious anchovies I've eaten, ever. Really creamy and delicious.
- Sobrasada - house made soft chorizo
- ...and a mystery cheese... I don't remember, it was a late change.

2000 Viña Gravonia Blanco - smells like an overblown California butterball chardonnay, and tastes like anything but. Pretty and tasty, and a certain "in-your-head" quality, largely, I think, due to the difference between the nose and the palate.

2000 Viña Tondonia Rosado - honestly, my favorite wine of the evening, that full on savoury experience. M.J. was very impressed that we've been drinking the '93s in Kyoto, saying she doesn't have any left herself, and if she could find some, she'd buy it back. Of course, she then told us about how much she'd recently enjoyed a '64 rosado. So, not exactly time to drink up then!


Second Course:

- Ravioli de Hongo - duck consommé, alba white truffle, shaved foie gras - this was very nice too!
- Trucha con Jamón - trout, serrano ham, white asparagus, glacier lettuce, black olive
- Menestra en Pintxo - a menestra is supposed to be a sort of vegetable casserole, so I guess this was a "deconstructed" version: artichoke, potato, asparagus, and parsley

2004 Cubillo - Really didn't make an impression, at all.


Third Course

- Chuleta - prime dry aged rib eye, with veal jus
- Patatas a la Riojana - piquillo peppers, smoked hot paprika, and chorizo
- Alcachofas - artichokes, béchamel, idiazabal, black truffle escabèche

1987 Viña Tondonia Blanco Reserva - the first Musarian comparison was made by Monica, the U.S. importer. Not so much that she agreed, but noting that it was not an uncommon comparison. The aromatics are certainly familiar, not convinced that the similarities continue - this seems to be a bit rounder and herbal.

1999 Viña Bosconia Reserva - Lovely balance, but predictably not offering very much at the moment.


Postre

- Crema de Pera - vanilla pear custard, almond cookie, orange gastrique
- petit four - marzipans

Solera 1948 Gran Reserva Fondillon - a 100% Monastrell from Alicante - familiar style but a very dry version. Not from Heredia, but neat!



Soup?

Wednesday, November 3, 2010

Nanbu Bijin Tokubetsu Junmai

Nanbu Bijin Tokubetsu Junmai
Nanbu Bijin Tokubetsu Junmai from Iwate Prefecture. A new label, and strictly by the numbers, appears to be the same sake, with an additional detail: Gin Otome rice, semaibuai 55%, SMV +5, acidity 1.5, amino acidity 1.1, #9 yeast, and 15.5% abv. But, it seems both a little more forward and a little lighter than last year's bottling. Same nose of Yubari melon, white flowers, and rice husks. On the palate, medium body, a little less round, but still with light sweetness. Melon, cucumber, and pear, similar late acidity and bitterness, a touch of rice husk on the finish, and overall, the alcohol seems better integrated. Subtle difference perhaps, but for me an even more pleasurable drop.

Since this is, after all, tokubetsu junmai, it stands to reason that one should not expect consistency year upon year. I'd be very interested to know what the comparator was.

Sunday, October 31, 2010

Hallowe'en


Not for love, nor money, nor the promise of trophies and fame, did I participate in the South Philly Costume Criterion over the weekend. And, mission accomplished, as I came home with none of the preceding.

Saturday, October 23, 2010

Kyoto Wrap, Part II

Continuing on this particular odyssey, a huge can of sake, half a litre of Kikusui Funaguchi Ichiban Shibori Honzojo Nama Genshu - I quite like this sake, the ultimate winter warmer, but this is a lot of firepower!


Liquor Mountain in Fushimi, where we picked up a pair of 20% nama genshu, for breakfast.


Back to Torisei in Fushimi for more of the delightful ginjo nama genshu.


So, they keep the tank of sake right out in the middle of the restaurant, but I'd not seen them top up the tank before. Only wish they'd pick a nicer bucket, rather than the kind that one finds in Asian toilets.


Having gone for a quick dip in Arashiyama (ok, ok, I fell in), warmed up with some familiar convenience-store purchases: Tama no Hikari Junmai Ginjo and Shirataki Mizunogotoshi Junmai. Standard fare, the former being true to Fushimi-style, soft and neutral, and the latter being slightly unusual Niigata fare, soft and slightly round, but still clean.


Back to Nichi-an. My first Jokigen, a ginjo yamahai genshu, yamada nishiki milled to 55%, SMV +6, acidity 1.4, amino acidity 1.2, and 16.5% alcohol, which seems particularly low for a genshu. Not that I could tell that it was yamahai, genshu, and not junmai. Very tasty and balanced.


Ebi-san at Nichi-an. I really would appreciate if someone could tell me what the one on the right is... "Etsugaijin?" But not that gaijin. On the right though, my first Furosen, a Yamahai Junmai Daiginjo - one of the very, very few breweries that don't use any cultured yeasts. Graceful with richness and umami, but certainly not wild.


Another first for me, Jyuyondai Tatsuno Otoshigo Junmai Nama - the tatsuno otoshigo (seahorse) is the name of the rice varietal. Soothing and pretty gentle, but what a price! ¥3400 for the 720ml bottle.


Having tired of walking, we took a day trip to Amanohashidate. The train, as ever, is an opportunity to drink sake. Another of Fushimi's own, Tomio Junmai Ginjo Hiyaoroshi, which was full of fall feeling, just plumped up and savoury enough.


Back to Kyoto, Daimon-san at Mukune had recommended that we visit the sake bar Yoramu, which is run by an Israeli guy. I can't help but feel we'd have had a better experience if we were actually Japanese, which is a strange twist, but I'll leave that alone and just comment on the sake. The focus here is on unpasteurised sake, and aged sake, much of it aged by the owner with a strict foreswearing of temperature control. Given that most producers are reluctant to ship namazake abroad because of a) lack of temperature control and b) shipping time affects freshness, here is a shop on the far side of the spectrum. Above, Kidoizumi Junmai Nama Genshu, an organic producer from Chiba, one of the prefectures I missed on my One Koku Challenge. This had unmistakeable genshu power, though the nama-ness was not so evident. Of course, the owner insists that "most sake is not ready to drink for 3 to 4 years", so who knows what this bottle has lived through.


(L) Kariho Yamahai, apparently not the Namahage, and aged by the proprietor for 10 years, in his hall closet. It was surprisingly mellow, not raging and mad like the Namahage, with only a mild sourness giving nod to the method. (M)Joho - not sure of the brewing details, except that although this sake was bottled in 2008 (20BY), it was actually aged, warm, by the brewery for 8 years before that. Again, unexpectedly mellow, only the earliest hints of madeirization. (R) A mystery producer, but lots of details - junmai muroka, gohyakumangoku rice milled only to 80%, SMV +8, acidity 2.7, 19.5% abv (genshu?), and aged for 4 years before bottling last year. The "wildest" of the group, but primarily for the acidity.


(L) Another organic producer, from Kochi, Mutemuka (no hand, no crown) Junmai Nama. Aged by the producer for 6 months at room temperature, resulting in a biggish but dry sake with a particularly earthy and ricy finish. (M) The same Terada Honke as earlier at Umi (oho, not so unique are we, Mr. Yoramu?). (R) Maibijin Yamahai Junmai, truly a "dancing beauty."


Back to Nichi-an, for dinner and more sake. Unfortunately, at precisely this moment, my back legs failed and I have no recollection whatsoever of the producer. As you can see, the label is of no help in this matter, but what it is is a "single-paddy-field" sake. We tried two, this 611, and another, the 437. They struck me as being particularly fragrant and fruity, a bit like dewasansan rice. I wish I could remember the brewer's name!


Next day, back legs recovered, a less-exalted lunch along the river in Arashiyama, with this "shibotasonomama", a variation on "just pressed" that I've not seen before this trip (but now seeing everywhere.)


Being the friendly sorts we are, we invited some passing-by kayakers for a drink, and they heartily accepted (and approved of our selections.)

And finally, the last sake selections of the trip. (L) Suigei Junmai from Kochi Pefecture. Love the name, "drunken whale", and the sake is lovely and dry, and this is no exception. I prefer this one though, made from Hattan Nishiki, to the tokubetsu junmai made from Matsuyama Mitsui - not sure why, just not keen on the latter's anise notes. (R)Bijofu Junmai Usu-nigori, not only just lightly filtered, but bottled with the intent of allowing continuing fermentation, and thus, a lightly sparkling, but thoroughly dry sake. Not as tasty as Mukune's usu-nigori, but probably the tastiest sparkling sake I've tried.

Odd or not, it took about a week of being back in the U.S. before I felt the need to open a bottle of sake again. More on that, soon.

Wednesday, October 20, 2010

Kyoto Wrap, Part I

Another excellent trip to Japan, 11 days in and about Kyoto. Heavily focused on sake-education. Exhibit 1 is the menu from Umi in Pontochō, a place that seems to be more sake bar than izakaya.


As with all exercises, it is important to warm up properly, so, to another "Umi", also in Pontochō. My eyes trained immediately on a namazake from Denshu.


From Umi to shining Umi, as the song goes. Note the exquisitely prepped and dried fishies.


On the left, Kirei Junmai Karakuchi Hachiju from Hiroshima - unusual in that the rice here is only milled to 80%, reflecting the new rules for junmai. A full on 17.5%, and a proper departure from Hiroshima's soft sweet style, which the owner attributed to the water the brewery uses. Maybe not as "pretty" as the name suggests (a play on words actually, as the kanji refers to the age of a turtle), but a tastily forward sake.

On the right, Chikusen Chokarakuchi Junmai Genshu from Hyogo, 100% Yamada Nishiki, SMV +14, and 20% abv! Not for the faint of heart!


Unfortunately, I can't decipher the junmai ginjo on the right, but the Yamagata sake on the left is no secret. Or, rather, it is, "Naishyo" Hiyaoroshi Junmai Nama Genshu, which was as brash as might be expected from this combination, and also rather earthy.


We made a lunchtime visit to Mukune, where I participated in a brewing internship last year, and where R. and I had visited the year before, our first meeting with Daimon-san. Daimon-san assured me that none of the sake we interns had worked on had gone wrong, and that in fact most of it was now sold. Amongst the many sake we had over lunch (including the last of my favorite Daikanzukuri Kasumi-shu Usu-Nigori) was this aki-agari, the first shinshu (new sake) from last season, and the first sake to be released in the fall season, after the customary aging over the summer. Wonderfully alive, sharp and dry, yet smoooooth. It should be noted that what is exported is not Mukune's most alluring stuff. No, the locals drink that all by themselves.


20 year-old koshu in Yamamoto-Honke's chicken-focused pub, Torisei, in Fushimi. If anyone wants to try chicken sashimi, this is the place. Haunting is not the right word for this sake though. Disturbing is more like it. Certainly madeirized, but maybe more in common with marmite and shoyu than sake. My man G. was complaining about the aftertaste days later. Still, given that their ginjo nama genshu is so good, and this is certainly out there on the fringes, I don't understand why their onigoroshi is so pedestrian (and more so, why they have to send it to the U.S.)

More GNG, please!


Mukune-interns may remember "Stand"-ing in Fushimi. The owner certainly remembered us. Excellent kushikatsu.


I might be wrong, but I think this junmai ginjo was from Matsumoto Shuzo in Fushimi, Nokomi?


At any rate, when it came time to pay and leave, G. was offered a job. If only. I love this place.


Certainly looking the part.


Irrashai!!!! Of course, G. made a proper hash of it, scaring the locals. Not ready for Captain Fantastic and the Brown Cowboys, it appears.


Another bash at Umi in Pontochō. (L) Terada Honke Junmai Nama. This brewery is truly out there - all organic, brewing 100% in the kimoto style, and additionally, with no cultured yeasts added at all. Can't argue with their belief in the Japanese proverb Hyakuyaku no Cho ("sake is healthier than 100 medicines.") Milled only to 90%, and unusual. Sour and earthy, this is not tanrei. (C) I may have misunderstood this one, because I thought the proprietor said Kaiun, which I know, but he said that it Kaishun. Never heard of it. On Junmai Nama, and, again, if I've understood correctly, fermented in wood vats. More familiar than the Terada Honke, but still with that pronounced earthy sharpness. (R) Kitajima Tokubetsu Junmai Kimoto Nama Genshu, easily the cleanest of the bunch, but also the most powerful, and a sort of tame nama, so a bit dangerous!


They just kept rolling out. The Terada on the left, but now the (C)Daishichi Junmai Kimoto Nama Genshu, which I know and love, and the (R) Naishyo from the previous visit.


And finally, a doburoku style sake made by Nara Prefecture's Okura Honke. I noticed this in some restaurants in Nara as well, which I found a bit surprising, given this sake, brewed in a 600-year-old style, was more of a dry alcoholic cross between rice pudding and a vanilla milkshake, complete with a sprinkling of cinnamon. This, sadly, was the closest I would get to Shirakawago's Doburoku festival, held while we were in Japan, but ultimately far too difficult to get to (and no accommodation to be had for miles.)


Speaking of Nara, there was a small fair outside Todaiji in Nara Koen, with this stand of local sake, including, of course, Harushika, Ume no Yado, and my favorite Mushohai.


My favorite sake shop in Nara. I still don't know the name, but I know how to find it. Or, at least I always end up there.


And, on the way back to Kyoto, some refreshments for the train, three Nara cup sake.