Chateau Musar: Serge Hochar's 50th Anniversary Dinner

Serge Hochar was in NYC last week, and on Sunday evening came to Hearth Restaurant to celebrate his 50th year of winemaking at Chateau Musar. Interesting and intimate group of 30-odd diners, hosted by Paul Grieco, with Broadbent and crew in attendance. A stupendous evening, definitely a highlight in my wine "career".

All bottles were opened only at 5PM (Reception started at 6, we sat for dinner around 7). All bottles were were double decanted, but we were specifically advised that none of the bottles were washed - in the end, the 1999 was the only one with noticeable sediment (something I've noticed with several bottles of this vintage, and rarely with others.)

Reception started with the three Cuvée wines. Main item of note here is that the Cuvée Blanc, which is normally 100% Obaideh, is this year a blend of vermentino, viognier, and chardonnay! It was very fresh and lean, I was just a bit taken aback by the change.

Serge was in fine philosopher form. Here are some little witticisms: "Don't ask me about the wine, I don't know anything"; "This wine is the best medicine you could invent"; "I have no clue" [why the wine gets fresher as it gets older]; "This is not a wine tasting, it is a dinner tasting. Let's only talk about how the food is enhanced by the wine"; You get the idea.

The Red Wines.

First Course - Duck Liver Paté with Brioche Toast, Figs and Marcona Almonds

1999 Chateau Musar Rouge - very very tight, not very giving. Unsurprisingly, given the recent opening. A fair amount of sediment, almost cloudy.

1995 Chateau Musar Rouge - meaty and full, but not showing it's best, certainly not in this flight. I'm usually very keen on this vintage, the bottle I had just a few weeks was far tastier.

1981 Chateau Musar Rouge - WOTF. Beautifully balanced, sanguine, tomato aspic. Delicious! On the evening, Serge claimed that this is the youngest Rouge ready to drink. But haven't I heard similar words by Serge about other vintages? But then again, when asked about this and other mysteries, Serge said: "I have no clue." Awesome.


Second Course - Tortellini with Mushroom Consommé, Savoy Cabbage
Second Course - Tortellini with Mushroom Consommé, Savoy Cabbage

1972 Chateau Musar Rouge - very quiet, like it was taking a nap. There was a suggestion that it was shutting down - so, again, Serge, when pressed on why the wines seem to get younger? "This is a silly question," followed by "I have no clue."

1966 Chateau Musar Rouge - Red WOTN, pretty much a consensus opinion. Lithe and expansive, very satisfying.


Third Course - Roasted Chatham Cod with Black Cabbage, Chickpeas and Smoked Garlic

1999 Chateau Musar Blanc - smoky and tangy.

1998 Chateau Musar Blanc - lovely, lovely wine. Lots of sweet pastry notes. WOTF.

1995 Chateau Musar Blanc - lighter, cleaner style, with a pronounced herbal finish. Very good, but I think the '98 superior right on the night. Of course, it's probably 30 years too young or something.


The White Wines.

Fourth Course - Roasted Guinea Hen with Pancetta and Market Vegetables

1969 Chateau Musar Blanc - fresh, bright, endless, youthful, lots of walnut and caramel notes. Blanc WOTN.

1964 Chateau Musar Blanc - relatively quiet - maybe it's shutting down!

1959 Chateau Musar Blanc - a melange of high-toned apricot jam, Stilton and mushroom, both on the nose and the palate. It was SO aggressive, bright, and fresh, one would be forgiven for thinking this is unfinished, fresh out of the barrel. It's going backwards. In another 10 years, there will probably be whole grapes inside. Only 200 bottles left at the property.

Cheese - Brebis Pyrénées (sheep), Five Spoke Creamery Tumbleweed (cow), Boeren Kaas (cow), Vella Dry Jack (cow)

2000 Chateau Musar Blanc - Blanc and cheese. It's the new comfort food.


With the great man himself. A tremendous evening! Serge Hochar was in NYC last week, and on Sunday evening came to Hearth Restaurant to celebrate his 50th year of winemaking at Chateau Musar. Interesting and intimate group of 30-odd diners, hosted by Paul Grieco, with Broadbent and crew in attendance. A stupendous evening, definitely a highlight in my wine "career"<span class="fullpost">.<br /><br />All bottles were opened only at 5PM (Reception started at 6, we sat for dinner around 7). All bottles were were double decanted, but we were specifically advised that none of the bottles were washed - in the end, the 1999 was the only one with noticeable sediment (something I've noticed with several bottles of this vintage, and rarely with others.)<br /><br />Reception started with the three Cuvée wines. Main item of note here is that the Cuvée Blanc, which is normally 100% Obaideh, is this year a blend of vermentino, viognier, and chardonnay! It was very fresh and lean, I was just a bit taken aback by the change.<br /><br />Serge was in fine philosopher form. Here are some little witticisms: "Don't ask me about the wine, I don't know anything"; "This wine is the best medicine you could invent"; "I have no clue" [why the wine gets fresher as it gets older]; "This is not a wine tasting, it is a dinner tasting. Let's only talk about how the food is enhanced by the wine"; You get the idea.<br /><br /><img alt="rouge" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_9T848u4wxrU/SucY46IJeWI/AAAAAAAAAkw/vzqOhVw4KGE/s400/IMGP2354.JPG" style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 300px; height: 400px;">The Red Wines.<br /><br /><b>First Course</b> - <i>Duck Liver Paté with Brioche Toast, Figs and Marcona Almonds</i><br /><br /><b>1999 Chateau Musar Rouge</b> - very very tight, not very giving. Unsurprisingly, given the recent opening. A fair amount of sediment, almost cloudy.<br /><br /><b>1995 Chateau Musar Rouge</b> - meaty and full, but not showing it's best, certainly not in this flight. I'm usually very keen on this vintage, the bottle I had just a few weeks was far tastier.<br /><br /><b>1981 Chateau Musar Rouge</b> - WOTF. Beautifully balanced, sanguine, tomato aspic. Delicious! On the evening, Serge claimed that this is the youngest Rouge ready to drink. But haven't I heard similar words by Serge about other vintages? But then again, when asked about this and other mysteries, Serge said: "I have no clue." Awesome.<br /><br /> <br /><b>Second Course</b> - <i>Tortellini with Mushroom Consommé, Savoy Cabbage</i><br />Second Course - Tortellini with Mushroom Consommé, Savoy Cabbage<br /><br /><b>1972 Chateau Musar Rouge</b> - very quiet, like it was taking a nap. There was a suggestion that it was shutting down - so, again, Serge, when pressed on why the wines seem to get younger? "This is a silly question," followed by "I have no clue."<br /><br /><b>1966 Chateau Musar Rouge</b> - Red WOTN, pretty much a consensus opinion. Lithe and expansive, very satisfying.<br /><br /><br /><b>Third Course</b> - <i>Roasted Chatham Cod with Black Cabbage, Chickpeas and Smoked Garlic</i><br /><br /><b>1999 Chateau Musar Blanc</b> - smoky and tangy.<br /><br /><b>1998 Chateau Musar Blanc</b> - lovely, lovely wine. Lots of sweet pastry notes. WOTF.<br /><br /><b>1995 Chateau Musar Blanc</b> - lighter, cleaner style, with a pronounced herbal finish. Very good, but I think the '98 superior right on the night. Of course, it's probably 30 years too young or something.<br /><br /><img alt="blancs" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_9T848u4wxrU/SucY4moM5hI/AAAAAAAAAko/3HZY4jpFpDY/s400/IMGP2355.JPG" style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 300px;"><br />The White Wines.<br /><br /><b>Fourth Course</b> - <i>Roasted Guinea Hen with Pancetta and Market Vegetables</i><br /><br /><b>1969 Chateau Musar Blanc</b> - fresh, bright, endless, youthful, lots of walnut and caramel notes. Blanc WOTN.<br /><br /><b>1964 Chateau Musar Blanc</b> - relatively quiet - maybe it's shutting down!<br /><br /><b>1959 Chateau Musar Blanc</b> - a melange of high-toned apricot jam, Stilton and mushroom, both on the nose and the palate. It was SO aggressive, bright, and fresh, one would be forgiven for thinking this is unfinished, fresh out of the barrel. It's going backwards. In another 10 years, there will probably be whole grapes inside. Only 200 bottles left at the property.<br /><br /><b>Cheese</b> - <i>Brebis Pyrénées (sheep), Five Spoke Creamery Tumbleweed (cow), Boeren Kaas (cow), Vella Dry Jack (cow)</i><br /><br /><b>2000 Chateau Musar Blanc</b> - Blanc and cheese. It's the new comfort food.<br /><br /><img alt="Serge" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_9T848u4wxrU/SucY4IXLuMI/AAAAAAAAAkY/WKa6HuvcmGA/s400/IMGP2359.JPG" style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 300px;"><br />With the great man himself. A tremendous evening!</span>

Kariho Namahage [1 Koku - 53]

The "Devil's Mask" is a full-on "extremely dry" (it says so on the label) junmai yamahai sake by Akita Seishu's Kariho brewery, one of fewer than a handful who make a yamahai using solely airborne yeasts. In that context, this is surprisingly clean, perhaps because of how dry this is? An almost absurd SMV +17 (second highest I've ever had), backed with a dryness enhancing acidity of 1.7, all at only 15.5% abv (no added alcohol to bolster dryness).

Nose of shellac, salted unshelled peanuts, fermented plums, whole cream, green peas, lentils (hello Grüner Veltliner). Rich and expansive over the palate, but witheringly dry - gives it an almost astringent bitterness to it, the back of the tongue feels like it is just being squeezed, or pinched, or better yet, skewered, like the Murugan devotees during the Hindu festival of Thaipusam [I highly recommend googling some pictures of this].

The label recommends having this either chilled or warm, but I find it endlessly fascinating at room temperature. So dry! <img alt="Kariho Namahage" border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_9T848u4wxrU/StzrJC2vL7I/AAAAAAAAAkI/Y4w64sUk3ZU/s400/IMGP2346.JPG" style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;"><br />The "Devil's Mask" is a full-on "extremely dry" (it says so on the label) <i>junmai yamahai</i> sake by <a href="http://www.igeta.jp/" target="_blank">Akita Seishu</a>'s <b>Kariho</b> brewery, one of fewer than a handful who make a <i>yamahai</i> using <i>solely</i> airborne yeasts. In that context, this is surprisingly clean, perhaps because of how dry this is? An almost absurd SMV +17 (second highest I've ever had), backed with a dryness enhancing acidity of 1.7, all at only 15.5% abv (no added alcohol to bolster dryness).<br /><br />Nose of shellac, salted unshelled peanuts, fermented plums, whole cream, green peas, lentils (hello Grüner Veltliner). Rich and expansive over the palate, but witheringly dry - gives it an almost astringent bitterness to it, the back of the tongue feels like it is just being squeezed, or pinched, or better yet, skewered, like the Murugan devotees during the Hindu festival of Thaipusam [I highly recommend googling some pictures of this]. <br /><br />The label recommends having this <i>either</i> chilled or warm, but I find it endlessly fascinating at room temperature. So dry!

It's The Milk Chocolate (Can't Be Beat)

A brief slice of Americana - R. had a symposium to attend in Harrisburg on Friday, and I was nominated as the designated not-getting-lost person. My reward, as it were, would be a visit to Hershey Park on the way home. But before that, we had to navigate through at least one meal (the day was punctuated by free Hershey's chocolate, as I used the free wireless outside the symposium).

After some reconnaissance, two blocks away I found Bricco, a joint venture between the Hilton (where the symposium was held) and a local culinary school. I like these kinds of places, because it's all students, usually very eager, and even if the food ends up being no good (which is rare), it's usually not expensive ($42 for two apps, two mains, and wine). My favorite such place is in Barcelona - top-flight 4 course lunch, with wine and cigar, for under 20 euros (well, eight years ago that was an incredible bargain).

Food was not bad, flatbreads with hummus, caponata and a beet salad, followed by sweet potato ravioli for R. and bacon & blue-cheese burger for me. No complaints. If ever I return to Harrisburg, I shall dine at Bricco. We also took in a wine flight for lunch:

2007 Sella & Mosca "La Cala" Vermentino di Sardegna - fresh green nose, pear, papaya. Not very bright, but lots of leanness and cleanness, citrus, quinine and bitters. Despite the softness, this was actually pretty refreshing, and the only one R. liked.

2007 Geografico Vernaccia di San Gimignano - minerally and fragrant, touches of licourice and fennel. Light, fresh, floral, and again with the cleansing bitters. I enjoyed this one as well, but R. wasn't keen on the licourice aspect.

2007 Attems Pinot Grigio (Collio) - not great, but it reminded me that I like what they do with the grape in Friuli - aromatic, a bit grassy. An almost oily palate, disappointingly soft - perhaps it saw some oak (which is to say, too much), but such a different PG profile - not overtly oaky , nothing buttery or vanilla'd, but rather wooly and medium-bodied. I didn't much care for it, but it was interesting nonetheless.

Soon, it was time for my reward. Which is to say, to take R. to Hershey so she could get her reward. The free tour was a lot like "It's A Small World" crossed with Willy Wonka's Chocolate Factory, complete with singing cows - for me, total nightmare - when I was about 9 years old, we got stuck in the Disneyland IaSW ride - the transport system broke down while we were in the deepest levels of hell - it took them about an hour to get it moving again, perhaps longer, and we weren't allowed to get out of the boats (naturally). Unfortunately, the music and puppets were on a different electrical system and remained completely and utterly functional throughout the ordeal.



This is not my video, but I think the caterwauling of the girl in this video is the perfect punctuation to the experience. When the 10 minutes of torture is complete, you are spun out into a vast chocolate shop, with impressive selections of every Hershey product, including 5 pound Hershey bars, giant Hershey kisses, yard-long Twizzlers, saucer-sized York Peppermint Patties, Jolly Ranchers that would give you lockjaw, and the indispensible chocolate lip balm.

So there you are, we've gone and done Hershey. Now you don't have to. <img alt="Reese's" border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_9T848u4wxrU/SttOVWsFj0I/AAAAAAAAAj4/4whAqKb5scQ/s400/IMAG0158.jpg" style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 300px; height: 400px;"><br />A brief slice of Americana - R. had a symposium to attend in Harrisburg on Friday, and I was nominated as the designated not-getting-lost person. My reward, as it were, would be a visit to Hershey Park on the way home. But before that, we had to navigate through at least one meal (the day was punctuated by free Hershey's chocolate, as I used the free wireless outside the symposium)<span class="fullpost">. <br /><br />After some reconnaissance, two blocks away I found <a href="http://www.briccopa.com/" target="_blank">Bricco</a>, a joint venture between the Hilton (where the symposium was held) and a local culinary school. I like these kinds of places, because it's all students, usually very eager, and even if the food ends up being no good (which is rare), it's usually not expensive ($42 for two apps, two mains, and wine). My favorite such place is in Barcelona - top-flight 4 course lunch, with wine and cigar, for under 20 euros (well, eight years ago that was an incredible bargain).<br /><br />Food was not bad, flatbreads with hummus, caponata and a beet salad, followed by sweet potato ravioli for R. and bacon & blue-cheese burger for me. No complaints. If ever I return to Harrisburg, I shall dine at Bricco. We also took in a wine flight for lunch:<br /><br /><b>2007 Sella & Mosca "La Cala" Vermentino di Sardegna</b> - fresh green nose, pear, papaya. Not very bright, but lots of leanness and cleanness, citrus, quinine and bitters. Despite the softness, this was actually pretty refreshing, and the only one R. liked.<br /><br /><b>2007 Geografico Vernaccia di San Gimignano</b> - minerally and fragrant, touches of licourice and fennel. Light, fresh, floral, and again with the cleansing bitters. I enjoyed this one as well, but R. wasn't keen on the licourice aspect.<br /><br /><b>2007 Attems Pinot Grigio (Collio)</b> - not great, but it reminded me that I like what they do with the grape in Friuli - aromatic, a bit grassy. An almost oily palate, disappointingly soft - perhaps it saw some oak (which is to say, too much), but such a different PG profile - not overtly oaky , nothing buttery or vanilla'd, but rather wooly and medium-bodied. I didn't much care for it, but it was interesting nonetheless.<br /><br />Soon, it was time for my reward. Which is to say, to take R. to Hershey so she could get her reward. The free tour was a lot like "It's A Small World" crossed with Willy Wonka's Chocolate Factory, complete with singing cows - for me, total nightmare - when I was about 9 years old, we got stuck in the Disneyland IaSW ride - the transport system broke down while we were in the deepest levels of hell - it took them about an hour to get it moving again, perhaps longer, and we weren't allowed to get out of the boats (naturally). Unfortunately, the music and puppets were on a different electrical system and remained completely and utterly functional throughout the ordeal.<br /><br /><object height="344" width="425"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/XYJYE0CEMDs&hl=en&fs=1&"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/XYJYE0CEMDs&hl=en&fs=1&" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344"></embed></object><br /><br />This is not my video, but I think the caterwauling of the girl in this video is the perfect punctuation to the experience. When the 10 minutes of torture is complete, you are spun out into a vast chocolate shop, with impressive selections of every Hershey product, including 5 pound Hershey bars, giant Hershey kisses, yard-long Twizzlers, saucer-sized York Peppermint Patties, Jolly Ranchers that would give you lockjaw, and the indispensible chocolate lip balm. <br /><br />So there you are, we've gone and done Hershey. Now you don't have to.</span>

Hananomai Junmai Ginjo [1 Koku- 54]

Hananomai Junmai Ginjo from Shizuoka Prefecture. Gohyakumangoku rice, SMV +7, 15.5% abv. I saw an interesting story about the toji, who seems to have been an avid surfer in his youth.

Rich aroma, husky (rice husk, not plus sizes for children), plantain, a little floral, musky even. Rich flavour, very bright...actually a curious thing... there are seemingly two separate flavour streams - one, the base note, is earthy, sweet and full. At the same time, but unintegrated, is a bright, sour top note. Both come together at the end in a clean, watermelon and bitter rind finish that just lingers.

The choice of glass makes a big difference - tried with a big bowled/small mouthed wine glass, and it seems to concentrate the nose too much, giving an almost pungent, rotting tone that disappears in a more open cup. Interesting stuff - Shizuoka sake is supposedly famous for simple, clean, and light tasting sake, due in part to the waters that originate on Mt. Fuji. This seems to be a bit of an eccentric then, but I like it well enough. <img alt="hananomai" border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_9T848u4wxrU/StJkxw9Q-sI/AAAAAAAAAiw/NBco5P_4W6U/s400/IMGP2332.JPG" style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;"><br />Hananomai Junmai Ginjo from Shizuoka Prefecture. Gohyakumangoku rice, SMV +7, 15.5% abv. I saw an interesting story about <a href="http://www.vinography.com/archives/2007/11/hananomai_junmai_ginjo_shizuok.html<br />" target="_blank"><b>the toji, who seems to have been an avid surfer</b></a> in his youth.<br /><br />Rich aroma, husky (rice husk, not plus sizes for children), plantain, a little floral, musky even. Rich flavour, very bright...actually a curious thing... there are seemingly two separate flavour streams - one, the base note, is earthy, sweet and full. At the same time, but unintegrated, is a bright, sour top note. Both come together at the end in a clean, watermelon and bitter rind finish that just lingers.<br /><br />The choice of glass makes a big difference - tried with a big bowled/small mouthed wine glass, and it seems to concentrate the nose too much, giving an almost pungent, rotting tone that disappears in a more open cup. Interesting stuff - Shizuoka sake is supposedly famous for simple, clean, and light tasting sake, due in part to the waters that originate on Mt. Fuji. This seems to be a bit of an eccentric then, but I like it well enough.

Tej

On a day full of eating to excess, like Giles Coren in Edwardian supersize me mode, I was done in by a few ounces of tej - Ethiopian honey wine.

Lunch was at International Smokeless BBQ, a pale shadow of the legendary Porky & Porkie. However, ISBBQ is still in business, and it shall not be taken for granted. As fate would have it, dinner was at an Ethiopian friend's house, and man can they cook. Truly, I did not require food at that point, I needed soothing tinctures of the most potent variety. Nonetheless, I ate, as they are splendid cooks, and I love, love, love Ethiopian food. And so I ate. And ate. And ate. Until it hurt. It has been years since I've eaten like that.

If Yahweh hadn't smote the snake in the Brick Testament, I would have presented a not unreasonable facsimile of a fully limbed constrictor having eaten for the year. I could barely move. Somehow, I made it to the sofa, where while being accosted by their dog, a hyperactive Papillon, I tried to focus on breathing. I recall murmurings about dessert, which, to my great relief, had gone missing. Instead, out came some home-made TEJ - an Ethiopian honey wine, sort of like mead. Of indeterminate strength, but gets stronger the longer it sits (no surprise there, it's all sugar waiting to be converted). It's sweet, but not that sweet, with a cantaloupe flavour, decent acidity and slightly frizzante. Also a curious herbality, which I understand comes from the gesho shrub which is used for fermentation. That link, by the way, helpfully points out that gesho is NOT something you can pick up at your local Piggly Wiggly on your way home from work. Good to know.

It tasted strong, sort of in the 20% range (though I read now that it is more likely half that). Be that as it may, it completely and utterly kicked my ass. The honey acts as an accelerant. I literally had about twice the amount in the glass as shown. And I felt instantly hungover. My head hurt. I felt emotional. I really needed to lie down, but I was afraid to close my eyes. And not looking forward to the hour in the car driving back to Philly. Not that that happened anytime soon, because as I lay there in my stupor, coffee beans were being roasted. And then the dessert was found. Triple chocolate cheesecake... <img alt="tej" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_9T848u4wxrU/Ss38M5YD8tI/AAAAAAAAAiQ/r2BbN8_oJek/s400/IMAG0126.jpg" style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 300px;"><br />On a day full of eating to excess, like Giles Coren in <a href="https://listserv.temple.edu/cgi-bin/wa?A2=ind0704&L=elcs-l&P=60" target="_blank">Edwardian supersize me</a> mode, I was done in by a few ounces of <i>tej</i> - Ethiopian honey wine.<br /><br />Lunch was at International Smokeless BBQ, a pale shadow of the legendary Porky & Porkie. However, ISBBQ is still in business, and it shall not be taken for granted. As fate would have it, dinner was at an Ethiopian friend's house, and man can they cook. Truly, I did not require food at that point, I needed soothing tinctures of the most potent variety. Nonetheless, I ate, as they are splendid cooks, and I love, love, love Ethiopian food. And so I ate. And ate. And ate. Until it hurt. It has been years since I've eaten like that. <br /><br />If Yahweh hadn't <a href="http://www.thebricktestament.com/genesis/garden_of_eden/gn03_14-15.html" target="_blank">smote the snake in the Brick Testament</a><span class="fullpost">, I would have presented a not unreasonable facsimile of a fully limbed constrictor having eaten for the year. I could barely move. Somehow, I made it to the sofa, where while being accosted by their dog, a hyperactive Papillon, I tried to focus on breathing. I recall murmurings about dessert, which, to my great relief, had gone missing. Instead, out came some home-made <a href="http://www.pitt.edu/~kloman/tej.html" target="_blank"><i>TEJ</i></a> - an Ethiopian honey wine, sort of like mead. Of indeterminate strength, but gets stronger the longer it sits (no surprise there, it's all sugar waiting to be converted). It's sweet, but not that sweet, with a cantaloupe flavour, decent acidity and slightly frizzante. Also a curious herbality, which I understand comes from the <a href="http://www.pitt.edu/~kloman/tej.html#gesho" target="_blank"><i>gesho</i></a> shrub which is used for fermentation. That link, by the way, helpfully points out that <i>gesho</i> is NOT something you can pick up at your local Piggly Wiggly on your way home from work. Good to know.<br /><br />It tasted strong, sort of in the 20% range (though I read now that it is more likely half that). Be that as it may, it completely and utterly kicked my ass. The honey acts as an accelerant. I literally had about twice the amount in the glass as shown. And I felt instantly hungover. My head hurt. I felt emotional. I really needed to lie down, but I was afraid to close my eyes. And not looking forward to the hour in the car driving back to Philly. Not that that happened anytime soon, because as I lay there in my stupor, coffee beans were being roasted. And then the dessert was found. Triple chocolate cheesecake...</span>

La Ville Aux Cent Clochers

R. and I spent the past weekend in Montréal - so close, yet neither of us had ever been.

We drove up through the Thousand Islands, stopping briefly here and there to check out local dining specialities. This (Indian & Canadian cuisine), we did not try. This, we do not even understand.

Upon reaching our hotel and seeing the shower, we understood that privacy was not a priority.

The city does have a shiny new public bike system called Bixi. Heavy bikes, short seat-post, giant beach wheels. Not heavily recommended for the 6-footers, but fun for short distances. Coming soon to Boston and London.

My mother had said that the Chinatown stores sometimes have langsats. I was very keen to get some, but couldn't find any... "only" mangosteens. There was also this "Dragon's Beard" - spun sugar with sesame, ground peanuts, chocolate, and coconut. Instant diabetic coma.

Can't pass up a meal at "Sumo Ramen."

The Sumo Volcano was sort of like a mild tantenmen... maybe an inactive volcano. They told me afterwards, that spice level is for the Canadians, you have to ask specifically for the hot stuff. I thought I had.

R.'s vegetarian "poireau" (leeks) ramen... looks like a bird is building a nest.

La Joute - an over-the-top fountain by one Jean-Paul Riopelle - mist, smoke, fire, abstract figures, surrounded by 11 species of indigenous trees, an "urban" forest.

Wandering through Vieux Montréal. Not bike friendly, those cobblestones. Good thing we had the beach tires.


But poutine? Fries with gravy and cheese curds. Not as good as patatje oorlog... R. was not impressed.

Stopped in at a bookstore, I wanted to get some more Mordecai Richler, but came across my friend's new book instead. Can't wait to read it (I had already gotten my copy, thank you very much.)

That thing about privacy. None to be had at this dentist's office. Not just showers and dentists either. Very odd.

Retreat to The Plateau, one of 4 bars at our hotel. Painfully hip.

R. having understood the dastardliness of "You Must Kill" chess. She quickly developed a knack for end-game-jujitsu. Not good, for me.

Mangosteens and Hakutsuru Junmai Ginjo (apart from a $75 bottle of Kagatoubi (from Fukumitsuya, who I like a lot)), this, sadly, was the best thing available at SAQ. Weep for sake-loving Québécois (well, this isn't that bad, just a bit innocuous). The mangosteens were good though. Made up for a thoroughly uninspiring dinner at the Indian restaurant, Ghandi. I wanted steak frites, and despite R.'s vegetarianism, I can't say she wouldn't have been happier at a steakhouse.


Early the next morning, we hopped onto the Metro and went to the Marché Jean Thalon, a huge farmer's market, with absolutely beautiful (and cheap) produce (click for larger pictures).

There are also excellent bakeries, halal shops, florists, and a stockist with local beer and cider. And wine. And vinegar - lots and lots of vinegar.

However, where there is good, there is also questionable. I'm wondering where the keg of gravy and the vat of cheese curds are kept.

We loved how bike-friendly the city is - bike lanes everywhere, and for a city of this size (3M-ish), not that many cars on the street. Very walkable too.

Green spaces in the old port, in front of the Marché Bonsecours.

Even the Molson brewery is downtown.

Poutine after liquor, I can almost understand. Hot dogs + Poutine + Liqueur (Liqueur!!!) sounds like punishment. I'm afraid to ask what a Pogo is. Especially since it is inconceivable that it should be served + Poutine. Fortunately, this place was closed, or I would have had to have tried one. For my brunch.

Is it any wonder why a restaurant specialising in the cuisine of the CCCP was shuttered? Probably all the Vladimir Putin Poutine they were trying to flog. Clearly, a sign for us to head home. We'll check out the belltowers next time.

We really were hoping we'd see a bit of fall colour on the drive home, but it was just too early. Ausable Chasm just over the border in New York was still pretty green, but I can imagine this place will be spectacular in a couple of weeks.

All was not lost though - our short Ausable detour took us through Peru, NY, where we came away with a freshly baked, still hot blueberry pie! Yes, we've got pie! <img alt="leaf" border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_9T848u4wxrU/Sstf_qEUAFI/AAAAAAAAAh4/jITNA4H9nfo/s400/IMGP2269.JPG" style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 300px;" />R. and I spent the past weekend in Montréal - so close, yet neither of us had ever been<span class="fullpost">.<br /><br /><img alt="indo-canadian" border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_9T848u4wxrU/SsqxRfwv6SI/AAAAAAAAAdg/VtZPPxXXQJw/s400/IMGP2223.JPG" style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 300px;" />We drove up through the Thousand Islands, stopping briefly here and there to check out local dining specialities. This (Indian & Canadian cuisine), we did not try. This, we do not even understand.<br /><br /><img alt="W Shower" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_9T848u4wxrU/Ssq3ygUtO6I/AAAAAAAAAfQ/QxOKLYjmiK8/s400/IMGP2273.JPG" style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 300px;" />Upon reaching our hotel and seeing the shower, we understood that privacy was not a priority.<br /><br /><img alt="bixi" border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_9T848u4wxrU/Ssqy0A8bFsI/AAAAAAAAAeQ/rbo6QSu0NH4/s400/IMGP2248.JPG" style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 300px;" />The city does have a shiny new public bike system called <a href="http://montreal.bixi.com/home/home-info" target="_blank">Bixi</a>. Heavy bikes, short seat-post, giant beach wheels. Not heavily recommended for the 6-footers, but fun for short distances. Coming soon to Boston and London.<br /><br /><img alt="" border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_9T848u4wxrU/SsqxSZYL4FI/AAAAAAAAAdw/lHoFlc7lF2A/s400/IMGP2237.JPG" style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 300px;" />My mother had said that the Chinatown stores sometimes have <i>langsats</i>. I was very keen to get some, but couldn't find any... "only" mangosteens. There was also this "Dragon's Beard" - spun sugar with sesame, ground peanuts, chocolate, and coconut. Instant diabetic coma.<br /><br /><img alt="sumo ramen" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_9T848u4wxrU/Ssqyy-FfQYI/AAAAAAAAAd4/K6Rw_mvayX4/s400/IMGP2240.JPG" style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 300px;">Can't pass up a meal at "Sumo Ramen."<br /><br /><img alt="volcano ramen" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_9T848u4wxrU/SsqyzmX0vYI/AAAAAAAAAeI/CkbiBDp1GHg/s400/IMGP2244.JPG" style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 300px;">The Sumo Volcano was sort of like a mild <i>tantenmen</i>... maybe an inactive volcano. They told me afterwards, that spice level is for the Canadians, you have to ask specifically for the hot stuff. I thought I had.<br /><br /><img alt="leeks of ramen" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_9T848u4wxrU/SsqyzQaFygI/AAAAAAAAAeA/wNfRzPHP0mE/s400/IMGP2243.JPG" style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 300px; height: 400px;">R.'s vegetarian "<i>poireau</i>" (leeks) ramen... looks like a bird is building a nest.<br /><br /><img alt="fountain" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_9T848u4wxrU/SsqxR9fGuFI/AAAAAAAAAdo/VJaLvlnA8g0/s400/IMGP2229.JPG" style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 300px;"><i>La Joute</i> - an over-the-top fountain by one Jean-Paul Riopelle - mist, smoke, fire, abstract figures, surrounded by 11 species of indigenous trees, an "urban" forest.<br /><br /><img alt="old city" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_9T848u4wxrU/Sssx1-XMX-I/AAAAAAAAAhI/zalkYyIhzaE/s400/IMGP2252.JPG" style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 300px;">Wandering through Vieux Montréal. Not bike friendly, those cobblestones. Good thing we had the beach tires.<br /><br /><img alt="poutine" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_9T848u4wxrU/SstxHbU7_JI/AAAAAAAAAiA/0ZIC9tELRP0/s400/IMGP2254.JPG" style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;"><br />But poutine? Fries with gravy and cheese curds. Not as good as <a href="http://www.jumanaidjimidjango.com/2008/06/war-chips-grolsch.html" target="_blank"><i>patatje oorlog</i></a>... R. was not impressed.<br /><br /><img alt="Goya's Dog" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_9T848u4wxrU/Ssq2GX5UIRI/AAAAAAAAAew/TOp7wi0lP7o/s400/IMGP2261.JPG" style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 300px;" />Stopped in at a bookstore, I wanted to get some more Mordecai Richler, but came across my friend's new book instead. Can't wait to <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Goyas-Dog-Damian-Tarnopolsky/dp/0670069736/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1254847683&sr=1-2" target="_blank">read it</a> (I had already gotten my copy, thank you very much.)<br /><br /><img alt="dentistry" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_9T848u4wxrU/Ssq3xVoGkkI/AAAAAAAAAe4/ErHqaEDquuE/s400/IMGP2265.JPG" style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 300px;" />That thing about privacy. None to be had at this dentist's office. Not just showers and dentists either. Very odd.<br /><br /><img alt="The Plateau Bar" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_9T848u4wxrU/Ssq3x7NVMBI/AAAAAAAAAfA/j34sV_R5XM8/s400/IMGP2267.JPG" style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 300px;" />Retreat to The Plateau, one of 4 bars at our hotel. Painfully hip.<br /><br /><img alt="must kill chess" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_9T848u4wxrU/Ssq3yHLKQVI/AAAAAAAAAfI/XaCsdkJqgy0/s400/IMGP2271.JPG" style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 300px; height: 400px;" />R. having understood the dastardliness of "You Must Kill" chess. She quickly developed a knack for end-game-jujitsu. Not good, for me.<br /><br /><img alt="fruit and juice" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_9T848u4wxrU/Ssq5gNmNV5I/AAAAAAAAAfY/eFqqEYaisqA/s400/IMGP2279.JPG" style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 300px;" />Mangosteens and Hakutsuru Junmai Ginjo (apart from a $75 bottle of Kagatoubi (from Fukumitsuya, who I like a lot)), this, sadly, was the best thing available at <a href="http://www.saq.com/" target="_blank">SAQ</a>. Weep for sake-loving Québécois (well, this isn't <i>that</i> bad, just a bit innocuous). The mangosteens were good though. Made up for a thoroughly uninspiring dinner at the Indian restaurant, Ghandi. I wanted steak frites, and despite R.'s vegetarianism, I can't say she wouldn't have been happier at a steakhouse.<br /><br /><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_9T848u4wxrU/Ssq5g0WOSDI/AAAAAAAAAfo/YWn-6L0D-EQ/s400/IMGP2291.JPG" target="_blank" border="0"><img alt="apples" border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_9T848u4wxrU/Ssq5g0WOSDI/AAAAAAAAAfo/YWn-6L0D-EQ/s400/IMGP2291.JPG" width="195"></a><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_9T848u4wxrU/Ssq7n3EU1bI/AAAAAAAAAf4/dVOxCcC2S2g/s400/IMGP2300.JPG" target="_blank"><img alt="berries" border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_9T848u4wxrU/Ssq7n3EU1bI/AAAAAAAAAf4/dVOxCcC2S2g/s400/IMGP2300.JPG" width="195"></a><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_9T848u4wxrU/Ssq5gaX3tWI/AAAAAAAAAfg/z9ISumvxkTg/s400/IMGP2290.JPG" target="_blank"><img alt="pecks of peppers" border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_9T848u4wxrU/Ssq5gaX3tWI/AAAAAAAAAfg/z9ISumvxkTg/s400/IMGP2290.JPG" width="195"></a><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_9T848u4wxrU/Ssq7o8ZVTPI/AAAAAAAAAgI/uJpx8hEOoY8/s400/IMGP2303.JPG" target="_blank"><img alt="pepper forest" border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_9T848u4wxrU/Ssq7o8ZVTPI/AAAAAAAAAgI/uJpx8hEOoY8/s400/IMGP2303.JPG" width="195"></a><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_9T848u4wxrU/Ssq5hfIf05I/AAAAAAAAAfw/e4ZXkyKB-Vo/s400/IMGP2294.JPG" target="_blank"><img alt="root vegetables" border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_9T848u4wxrU/Ssq5hfIf05I/AAAAAAAAAfw/e4ZXkyKB-Vo/s400/IMGP2294.JPG" width="195"></a><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_9T848u4wxrU/Ssq7ofztp1I/AAAAAAAAAgA/1bzfKKszhqY/s400/IMGP2301.JPG" target="_blank"><img alt="carrots" border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_9T848u4wxrU/Ssq7ofztp1I/AAAAAAAAAgA/1bzfKKszhqY/s400/IMGP2301.JPG" width="195"></a><br />Early the next morning, we hopped onto the Metro and went to the <a href="http://www.marche-jean-talon.com/" target="_blank">Marché Jean Thalon</a>, a huge farmer's market, with absolutely beautiful (and cheap) produce (click for larger pictures).<br /><br /><img alt="vinegar" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_9T848u4wxrU/SstD8qyz_RI/AAAAAAAAAhw/hYko8y4kxMw/s400/IMGP2304.JPG" style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 300px;" />There are also excellent bakeries, halal shops, florists, and a stockist with local beer and cider. And wine. And vinegar - lots and lots of vinegar.<br /><br /><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 300px;" />However, where there is good, there is also questionable. I'm wondering where the keg of gravy and the vat of cheese curds are kept.<br /><br /><img alt="biking in the city" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_9T848u4wxrU/SstxHqKsLAI/AAAAAAAAAiI/pG4ZCVeYp8I/s400/IMGP2320.JPG" style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 300px; height: 400px;">We loved how bike-friendly the city is - bike lanes everywhere, and for a city of this size (3M-ish), not that many cars on the street. Very walkable too.<br /><br /><img alt="port" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_9T848u4wxrU/SstD8NBMdQI/AAAAAAAAAho/wRrIAjE87tQ/s400/IMGP2312.JPG" style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 300px;" />Green spaces in the old port, in front of the Marché Bonsecours.<br /><br /><img alt="Molson" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_9T848u4wxrU/SstD7MJe9_I/AAAAAAAAAhY/m44LSe5GvpU/s400/IMGP2315.JPG" style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 300px;" />Even the Molson brewery is downtown.<br /><br /><img alt="more poutine" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_9T848u4wxrU/Ssq9J3o8r6I/AAAAAAAAAgY/bvfrRyCciVc/s400/IMGP2318.JPG" style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 300px;" />Poutine after liquor, I can almost understand. Hot dogs + Poutine + Liqueur (Liqueur!!!) sounds like punishment. I'm afraid to ask what a Pogo is. Especially since it is <i>inconceivable</i> that it should be served + Poutine. Fortunately, this place was closed, or I would have had to have tried one. For my brunch.<br /><br /><img alt="Kremlin Restaurant" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_9T848u4wxrU/Ssq2F6gopDI/AAAAAAAAAeo/1tMKC0kMDpo/s400/IMGP2257.JPG" style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 300px; height: 400px;" />Is it any wonder why a restaurant specialising in the cuisine of the <b><i>CCCP</i></b> was shuttered? Probably all the Vladimir Putin Poutine they were trying to flog. Clearly, a sign for us to head home. We'll check out the belltowers next time.<br /><br /><img alt="Ausable" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_9T848u4wxrU/Ssq9LCpasVI/AAAAAAAAAgw/YD1h60q5AfE/s400/IMGP2329.JPG" style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 300px;" />We really were hoping we'd see a bit of fall colour on the drive home, but it was just too early. Ausable Chasm just over the border in New York was still pretty green, but I can imagine this place will be spectacular in a couple of weeks.<br /><br /><img alt="pie" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_9T848u4wxrU/Ssq9Kj49pZI/AAAAAAAAAgo/VHxK7vIuGOA/s400/IMGP2327.JPG" style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 300px;" />All was not lost though - our short Ausable detour took us through Peru, NY, where we came away with a freshly baked, still hot blueberry pie! Yes, we've got pie!</span>

Nihonshu-no-Hi Offering [1 Koku - 55]

Ichi no Kura Junmai from Miyagi Prefecture. Sasanishiki rice milled to 55%, SMV +2, acidity 1.5, yeast #9, and 15.5% abv. It's been several years since I've had this, but I have good memories of it. The last time was in 2006 at a very swish teppanyaki place at the Landmark Tower in Yokohama - I was staying there for a conference - had a room on the 65th floor with amazing views of Mt. Fuji... but I digress. Fresh steamed rice on the nose, just a hint of husk (sort of like a popcorn note). Very light and clean, barest suggestion of musk melon and pear, surprisingly dry, with a pleasant astringent bitterness on the finish. Not a complex sake, but maintains a consistent profile from deeply chilled to room temperature, easy, refreshing drinking. Plus, there were snacks!


Freshly roasted gingko nuts (Philadelphia is half swarming with gingko trees - this weekend, R. and my mother went around and scooped up bags and bags of the nuts - wearing lots of gloves, but wishing they'd brought re-breathers, or at least masks). Man, what a stench. But the end product is very tasty. <img alt="ichi no kura" border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_9T848u4wxrU/SsY_B6CSBCI/AAAAAAAAAdQ/vN2T6m90FUs/s400/IMGP2218.JPG" style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;"><br /><a href="http://www.ichinokura.co.jp/home2.htm" target="_blank">Ichi no Kura</a> Junmai from Miyagi Prefecture. <i>Sasanishiki</i> rice milled to 55%, SMV +2, acidity 1.5, yeast #9, and 15.5% abv. It's been several years since I've had this, but I have good memories of it. The last time was in 2006 at a very swish <i>teppanyaki</i> place at the Landmark Tower in Yokohama - I was staying there for a conference - had a room on the 65th floor with amazing views of Mt. Fuji... but I digress. Fresh steamed rice on the nose, just a hint of husk (sort of like a popcorn note). Very light and clean, barest suggestion of musk melon and pear, surprisingly dry, with a pleasant astringent bitterness on the finish. Not a complex sake, but maintains a consistent profile from deeply chilled to room temperature, easy, refreshing drinking. Plus<span class="fullpost">, there were snacks!<br /><br /><img alt="gingko" border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_9T848u4wxrU/SsY_BPRxN9I/AAAAAAAAAdI/oH7nj1wmVVc/s400/IMGP2216.JPG" style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;"><br />Freshly roasted gingko nuts (Philadelphia is half swarming with gingko trees - this weekend, R. and my mother went around and scooped up bags and bags of the nuts - wearing lots of gloves, but wishing they'd brought re-breathers, or at least masks). Man, what a stench. But the end product is very tasty.</span>