Monday, May 31, 2010

Sunday Bloody Sunday


What's a long holiday weekend without a minor casualty? I don't know. Wine may have surrounded the incident, but was not involved at the time. I think it was the pancakes. Fortunately, I was wearing my disco-pants at the time (Sunday morning), and a mere three blocks away from the top-rated ER in NYC (I look forward to receiving their top-rated bill.) Rock-star treatment in the ER and seven stitches.

2009 Bereziartua Txakoli - to kick the weekend off, at a tapas joint in Soho. Yeah, yeah, txakoli... chalk, lemons, salt and spritz. Delicious. But the wild thing is that about 12 years ago, while in grad school, I was at this property, in Astigarraga near San Sebastian, for a, er, quietly social affair. They must be better known for their sidra, as I don't recall trying the wine. I can't quite say why we haven't taken up the owner's offer to visit during harvest, as we had a great time there. I also vaguely recall climbing into one of the (empty) cider barrels (had a hole about the same size as the "Buddha's Nostril" pillar at the Todai-ji in Nara.) Certainly a more definitive path to Nirvana.

2008 Bodegas Rafael Palacios Louro do Bolo (Valdeorras, Galicia) - 100% godello, medium-bodied, semi-decent acidity with a chill, and nice herbal component. I wouldn't rush out to buy it, but rather serviceable if a wine of this size was desired. This was a recommendation from our server, but sadly made before we ordered the boquerones. Shoulda' gone with another txakoli, no?

2009 Berger Grüner Veltliner (Kamptal) - wandering about, we saw a no-name little place, three tables, and a bar. Really, the place didn't have a name. Not over the door (which, to be fair, was a garage door), not on the menus either. A thoroughly unglamorous place, but with a wine list that listed "Grüner Veltliner" as the first choice. Turned out to be the 1 liter basic bottling from Berger, which is very user friendly, and generally quite cheap (in the $10-$13 range.) Even for New York, I can't help feeling $40 is a rip-off, but then again, possibly no moreso than most places, and it is a liter of wine. Why I'm trying to justify on behalf of the owner of the nameless bar, I don't know.

2005 Nicolas Joly Clos de la Coulée de Serrant (Savennières-Coulée de Serrant) - Poured slightly amber, but crystal clear. The nose was smoky and nutty, but the palate was quite clean and sharp, though there were still savoury touches, citrus rounded by the R.S. in a much more appealing way than I get from the Germans. Really very tasty, and as I understand it, unusually approachable for its youth. R.-approved (though she ranks the '06 a peg or two higher.)

1992 Bründlmayer Riesling Alte Reben Zöbinger Heiligenstein (Kamptal) - ah, the last bottle of this gem. Still bone dry and deeply sappy fruit concentration. Crisp and lovely, showing just a touch of petrol. Sad to see the end of this, but Herr B. recommended drinking it up, said we were lucky to have any left at all.

1985 Chateau Musar Rouge (Bekaa Valley) - I didn't pay all that much attention to this, but maybe it was because there wasn't much to listen to. Funky nose on opening, but blew off quickly. A lighter, leaner style, still tasty, but it wasn't mind-blowing. There was a half-bottle left which I've recovered. Ahem, in fact, surely the plan was to have a 48 hour quasi-Audouze.

1996 de Venoge Champagne Brut Blanc de Blancs - my mini-casualty very nearly jeopardized a planned lunchtime picnic in Central Park, but owing entirely to my disco-trousers, I was in and out in just under three hours. Not terribly complex or "mature", but then again, this was consumed from a plastic cup just as the lidocaine was fading.

N.V. André Clouet Champagne Brut Rosé - under a blue "painted sky", an ideal pairing with kite-flying and mini-footie.

2007 Hiedler Grüner Veltliner Thal (Kamptal) - this has been a really great wine for us over the past year, delivering consistently classic results. This was our last bottle, and it was still good, fine for a pizza dinner, though the freshness factor is ever so slightly slipped. Am hoping the 2009 will be just as good, as the '08 didn't do it for us at all.

Thursday, May 27, 2010

Sakepop

You want sparkling sake? No problem. Some home-made awashu coming up, thanks be to SodaStream.


Since this was our first experiment, sacrificing good stuff was out of the question. Instead, we went the other direction, with barely sake-like liquids. First, Gekkeikan from California. Second, Tatsuuma-Honke's Kuromatsu Hakushika, a not particularly interesting nigori-zake from Hyogo Prefecture.



Now, since SodaStream is intended for carbonating clear liquids, such as water and even wine, but not juice or milk, we started with the Gekkeikan.


The results weren't terribly exciting, but perhaps our expectations were too high. We were prepared for explosions, but it didn't seem like it was pressurizing that much. Could sake really be too viscous? And if so, how can wine work? (we haven't tried, yet.)


Nonetheless, it did get carbonated. The taste didn't improve, but it certainly wasn't any worse.


Moving on to the nigori. Since the smallest SodaStream container is 500ml, and the "Snow Beauty" was only 300ml, we topped it off with the rest of the Gekkeikan.



Once again, an unimpressive effort. Udo no taiboku (Japanese equivalent of "all mouth no trousers".)


This time, there was barely any action on the pour, and the carbonation was only barely noticeable. Not really convinced by the viscosity argument, we thought that perhaps the liquids weren't cold enough, even though they had been refrigerated - this is a common SodaStream problem. So, we tried putting both bottles into the freezer for a bit so we could try again. Around this time though, it occurred to us that perhaps the gas canister was simply running low... doh! The simplest explanations are really most often correct! New canister in, and on to round 2!


Looking for excitement, we started with the nigori this time. And the bubbling was definitely more vigorous.



Yes, I think we have more than enough pressure!


And as you can see, the sake was solidly carbonated. Proper awashu. Unexpectedly, the taste was actually much improved too!



Time to crank up the pressure with the Gekkeikan. Hmm. Maybe too much pressure. Even greater losses, but sadly, not enough. The bubbles were the best part of our sparkling Gekkeikan...

Tuesday, May 25, 2010

Wakatake Junmai Ginjo [1 Koku - 16]

Wakatake Onikoroshi Junmai Ginjo
From Shizuoka Prefecture's Oomuraya Shuzo, this Wakatake Onikoroshi is a Junmai Ginjo, even if the English text says Ginjo alone. Very little information out there about this brew, except that SMV is +3, acidity 1.5 and 15.5% abv. As with other products from this brewery, it's probably safe to assume that a local Shizuoka yeast is being used. The nose is both clean - fresh chopped greens and grain spirit - and weighty - fresh cream. On the palate, this is light and smooth to enter, but transitions to a more angular profile, sharp and dry, with pronounced acidity, and the astringent/antiseptic aftertaste of cinnamon. Like the Junmai Daiginjo from this house, the alcohol was prominent. Unfortunately, in this issue, I found it even more of a distraction. This will likely perform better with food, but I think I'm just going to leave the demons alone for a while.

Sunday, May 23, 2010

Tosatsuru Azure Ginjo

Tosatsuru Azure Ginjo
From Kochi Prefecture's Tosatsuru, one of the most consistent award winning breweries at the national sake competitions. This ginjo sake, Azure, is made from a natural spring source that empties onto the Pacific Ocean floor. I'm not sure how this water is collected, or where (at the source, or if indeed it is collected from the sea floor), but it is made in limited quantities, and packaged in this modern outfit.

Made from Yamada Nishiki millied to 55%, SMV +5 (which the brewery describes as neutral... an interesting shift, but maybe a reflection of the dry styles Kochi is known for), acidity 1.3, and 15.5% abv. The nose is quite fresh, with melon and, am I imagining it, a slightly marine tang. Oh, the powers of suggestion. Very clean on the palate, a mild, attractive starchiness, very swirling and caressing, with a lightly minty/savoury tang, and though it is quite soft, the acidity is bubbling just underneath. Refreshing and balanced all the way through, both chilled, as recommended, and at room temperature. The packaging may be a bit much for purists, but there's a quality product inside.

Friday, May 21, 2010

Nøgne Ø Tyttebær

Nøgne Ø Tyttebær
This particular offering from the Ø is a collaboration with the Danish vagrant brewer, Mikkeller. Possibly my next beer project should be to explore the Mikkeller range.... hmmm... Anyways, tyttebær is described as a wild cranberry, but alternatively as lingonberry, which makes for a delicious jam... hmm... need some meatballs... once again, I digress... this is an 8% abv "wild yeast sour ale" that has been described in some corners as feral.

Well, I like to think I've had some experience with feral beverages, and let me start by saying, this isn't it. Very approachable beer. Though, I must caution, my bottle practically Eyjafjallajökull'ed on me, leaving a reddish sludge everywhere, and if such a thing is possible, caused my granite countertops to rust. The accompanying aromas did suggest some sort of savageness, all bretty and sour. The deeply muddy orange did not bolster confidence either. However...

...while this certainly enters tart and bretty, it is much less aggressive than the few gueuze I've tried. Not sweet, but a rather sharp sour crispness. As dirty as this all appears, it actually seems to have a clear expression of fruit, only framed by the brett. Light, and I can't believe I'm saying this, delicate. It's got great acidity, it's very dry, and though I wouldn't call it sessionable, it's intriguing and intoxicating, keeping on drawing you back for more and more sips (or gulps.) Well-balanced, quite delicious, and well worth revisiting.

Wednesday, May 19, 2010

Okunomatsu Ginjo [1 Koku - 17]

Okunomatsu Ginjo
From Okunomatsu Shuzo in Fukushima Prefecture. One of the few (handful?) ginjo offerings available in the U.S. Brewed with a proprietary yeast and from locally grown rice, milled to 60%, SMV +4, acidity 1.3, and 15.5% abv. Floral and green nose, not powerfully fragrant, but with prominent green pear and melon notes. Smooth and soft entry, transitioning to a light, drying, pleasantly bitter, evaporative finish. I really can't say if this is necessarily due to the added alcohol of the style, but it came on more as a pleasant warmth rather than a burn. All in all, a bit forgettable, but a pleasant sake, unremarkable in its unremarkability.

Sunday, May 16, 2010

Hananomai Katana [1 Koku - 18]

Hananomai Katana
Another junmai ginjo from Shizuoka Prefecture's Hananomai Shuzo. This product isn't listed on their website, though elsewhere it can be read that this has been entered into prefectural contests. Despite a paucity of information on the label (apart from being described as karakuchi, or "extra-dry"), the capsule wrapper confirms that it is indeed JG, and what little information I can find suggests that this is +7 and 15.5% abv. The nose is light, with a sour tropical fruit tang and hints of cinnamon. Entry is sweet but light, very quick transition to dryness, with good acidity. Not much in the way of flavour, apart from a slightly sticky sweetness, and the alcohol is rather prominent, though not quite hot. I usually like karakuchi sake, but this one isn't appealing to me.

Friday, May 14, 2010

Otokoyama Junmai [1 Koku - 19]

Otokoyama Tokubetsu Junmai
Allegedly the most popular junmai in the U.S., this Otokoyama number, from Hokkaido Prefecture, is brewed from haenuki milled to 55%, SMV +10, acidity 1.6, and 15.5% abv. Straightforward, slightly sweet, roasted rice nose. Clean, light, rice flavor, medium bodied over the mid-palate, crisp dry finish. At room temperature, a bit unpleasantly bitter, better with a chill on. Must say that the alcohol taste/burn is somewhat prominent, so while relatively easy to drink, what with all the tanrei-ness going on, I can only go slowly here. Not bad, but not my favorite.