Kansai bound

This is R.'s first real visit to Japan, not counting a Narita layover which spawned her love of sumo wrestling. That trip of course significantly influenced this one. I'm coming back to Japan next month for a conference, and the plan had been for R. to join me. "Great! A chance to see sumo wrestling!" Well, it turns out that sumo wrestling tournaments are only scheduled in odd-numbered months, so R. has actually boycotted next month's trip. In the interests of maintaining some marital harmony, I quickly arranged for this visit, which will include sumo wrestling.

Our itinerary is as follows. Fly to Osaka and head straight to Kyoto. From Kyoto, we go to Nara, then a trip in the Hakone area to see Mt. Fuji, and then up to Tokyo. My friend N. has secured tickets for the sumo tournament, so that will kick things off. We'll then go up to Nikko and spend some time up there before coming to spend a couple of days exploring Tokyo.


This is going to be fun, visiting Japan with a first-timer. In Nishiki market, R. had her first encounter with fruit pricing. "Seriously? $50 for a melon?"


Endless delights in Japan's department store basement food halls. "Now we're talking. You may spend as much as needed to please me."


Kinkakuji - Temple of the Golden Pavillion. Still haven't read Mishima's account.


Ryoanji's famous Zen garden. And no, I still am unable to see all the stones at once.


Japan's newest woodblock artist aims to revive ukiyo-e, or "pictures of the floating world."


For lunch, we headed to the west of Kyoto, to Arashiyama, for lunch at Ranroukaku, a ryokan (inn) specialising in Kyoto's kaiseki cuisine and yudofu - fresh tofu. It was a delicious lunch with some excellent namazake, but the highlight was yet to come. When the attendant came over, I thought he was going to ask if we wanted more drinks or dessert, but instead, he asked if we would like to take a bath! Well, we'd been out in the sun all day, it had been muggy, and just started to rain when we came in for lunch, but I didn't think we smelled that badly! No, it turns out that the inn has a number of private baths on the roof, with views, such as this one, overlooking Arashiyama and the Oi river. Fabulous idea!


Gion by night.


Ginkakuji - Temple of the Silver Pavillion


"Very important moss," one of several moss displays at the temple.


Pruning downward pointing needles on the grounds of Ginkakuji.


If you think pruning is hard work...

Paper cranes on the grounds of Heian Jingu.

Kiyomizudera - Pure Water Temple.


These don't look like your standard rice crackers. And they're not. After buying some to sample, we stepped into the sake shop next door and sampled a few things, bought a few bottles. Good thing I packed lightly!


Cat store in Higashiyama.