Champagne tasting with Paul Goerg (mostly)

Hosted by Mario Rinaldi, Goerg's brand ambassador. My first time trying this Co-operative producer from Vertus. 13 farmers, primarily Premier Cru and some Grand Cru sites, with a strong inclination for Chardonnay. No Pinot Meunier.

While waiting for the session to begin, a methode traditionelle sparkling wine was poured, the N.V. Quartz Reef "Chauvet" from Central Otago in New Zealand. Turns out the wine-maker is one Rudi Bauer, an Austrian who studied winemaking in both Gumpoldskirchen and Bad Kreuznach, sites of two of my more memorable wine experiences. 43:57 PN/Chardonnay. Fresh, "green" nose, green apples, field greens (clover), and sweet tones. On the palate, light toast, crisp and bright, but also juicy and lightly sweet. Medium body, good bitter edges, not much complexity, but would make a fine aperitif. Pity about the price - $30.

Onto the Goerg. According to Mario, the non-vintage wines are consistently a blend of reserve wines in the following proportions: 50% 2000, 30% 1999, and 20% 1998. Dosage is done with a still chardonnay and cane sugar.

N.V. Brut Tradition - 60% Chardonnay. Medium-fine bead. Nose is perfumed, honey, white flowers, and an interesting melon notes... reminds me of something, I couldn't quite place it. Medium-bodied, light toast and citric edges, apple/pear juice, rather soft and round. Ok.

N.V. Brut Blanc de Blancs - hmm... something quite in common to the Tradition on the nose... what is it? It's a perfume... I tried smelling one of the empty glasses to see if it was a detergent, but no. I don't think it was the person sitting next to me (R. couldn't make it tonight). On the palate, nice brioche, citrus, good acidity, light but caressing. A bit more spirited than the Tradition, but actually, I found this a bit too foamy in the mouth.

N.V. Brut Absolu - also 100% chardonnay. Slightly musky, smoky, richer nose, appealing. Full, rich, leesy, musky, cheesy, sooty, smoky... very interesting, good acidity, can't help but feel it's a little bit tired, but overall I enjoyed this quite a bit. After the first two, I felt certain that this was non-dosage, and sure enough.

N.V. Brut Rosé - 85% Chardonnay. Interestingly, this Rosé is not made by either saignée or at final blending. Instead, the PN is vinified prior to blending and secondary fermentation. A stunningly salmon-pink colour, lots of red fruit on the nose, plus rhubarb and citric notes. Nicely integrated, great rosé character, good bitter tannins, dark elements, less like a Champagne than you'd think, but quite nice. Probably my WOTN.

1998 Cuveé Lady - 95% Chardonnay. Lighter, cleaner nose than any of the others, but again that perfume is there... and I think I know what it is... Calvin Klein CK One... seriously. This time, it's in springwater, so not as obvious, but definitely there. Fine bead, and on the palate, good acidity, light, mineral, springwater, and a touch of toast. Not terribly complex, but certainly elegant.

2002 Champagne Marc Hebrart Special Club Millésime. This spot had been reserved for a Goerg Demi-Sec, but apparently it didn't quite make it over from France in time, so we got to try this from Terry Thiese's portfolio. Such a different character - 75% PN, can definitely feel the power on the nose, plenty of mineral, almost marine. On the palate, good acidity, apples, crushed stone, smoke.