Monday, November 2, 2009

Tsukasabotan Junmai [1 Koku - 52]

King of Peony
Tsukasabotan Junmai from Tosa in Kochi Prefecture, and a participant in the "space yeast" experiment. This, however, is not that. It is instead a very refreshingly dry brew, SMV +7, acidity 1.5, and 15.5% abv. Lightly floral aroma, with hints of mint and clover. Plenty of power, solid structure, rich rice flavour, sweet core, but also clean, spring-water-like, obviously dry (though not so much crispness), with a lightly savoury finish. Much deliciousness.

It has been noted variously, including by John Gauntner, that Shiba Ryōtarō (I have never read this guy - historical fiction...well...) makes reference to Tsukasabotan in the novel Ryōma ga Yuku (竜馬がゆく: “Ryōma moves ahead”): "In Sakawa of the Tosa region, the sake that is the top of botans [peony] is being brewed. The people of Tosa love this kind of dry sake, and after drinking a bottle and a half [isshobin, so 2.7 litres], a faint sweetness eventually comes out in the center of the flavor, and you can just keep drinking."

Well, I can tell you that there is more than faint sweetness well before 1.5 isshobin, and this was a very welcome change from the Kariho Yamahai - I like that style, but really only in smaller doses. THIS, I could drink. And I will.

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