Mizuho Kuromatsu Kenbishi Junmai

Hyogo Prefecture's Mizuho Kuromatsu Kenbishi, founded in 1505 and owners of one of Japan's oldest recognized trademarks. As I understand it, Kenbishi only releases one new product every generation, about once in 25 years, and only works in the yamahai style.

Yamada Nishiki milled to 70%, SMV ±0, acidity 1.7, alcohol 17%, and bottled on 03.04.2009. The very yellow colour and relatively high alcohol suggests that this could be a muroka genshu, or simply aged. Don't know. The nose is full, bright, and high-toned, beguilingly volatile. On the palate, this is rich, full, sour, nutty, with caramel popcorn and great minerality. Plenty of presence here, lively acidity lending balance to the fullness, and a long, slowly unfurling finish, hanging on, hanging on, but still clean. A wonderful, deeply satisfying Yamahai.