Taruhei Gokujo Gin Sumiyoshi [1 Koku - 86]

A tokubetsu junmai from Yamagata Prefecture. Semaibuai 60%, SMV +5, acidity 2.0, amino acidity 1.9, 16% abv. Taruhei, as the name suggests, specialises in taruzake - sake aged in sugi - Cryptomeria or Japanese cedar. The first indication of that is the golden colour. Pronounced, rich rice aroma. On the palate, the sugi flavour is obvious, but by no means overpowering - rich, full bodied, wood spice over white-fleshed melon, an epic struggle between body and bite, with body just winning out, but balanced overall. Long, pleasingly bitter finish.

I'd not normally go for so much as a go (180ml) of taruzake, much less an isshobin, but I'd read this is one of the most idiosyncratic, polarising producers out there, so I couldn't resist. A winner!