Biodynamic s'Wine Flu

Some dead soldiers from Thursday's dinner with Aleš Kristančič of Collio/Brda's Movia - geographically, mostly Slovenian at the moment, and 100%, unashamedly, unapologetically biodynamic. 15 wines, both current and back vintages, hosted in Italian Wine Merchant's Union Square dining room.

Our man Ales is a bit of a legend, a wild man, likes to party. Aspiring footballer turned vino-philosopher, this was a night punctuated by wisecracks and stories, most were not quite ribald. Tremendous.

We started with antipasti and two of Movia's great sparkling wines, the 2000 Puro (60% Ribolla, 30% Chardonnay, 10% Pinot Nero) and the 100% Pinot Nero 2001 Puro Rose, disgorged before our eyes in a seemingly endless stream of magnums. I was catching up with my friend C., when the woman standing next to me was introduced to another couple as what sounded like "Halle Berry" - well, I admit I did let an eye wander, I don't think it was her, but I'm pretty sure I saw this pretty young lady on TV this morning. Will investigate...

Anyways... I profess a preference for the Puro Rose. The regular Puro is tasty, yes, but the Rose has so much more going on, the Rose is creamy where the Puro is angular. I'm also preferring this with the lees still in, as I shared with J., S., and Daimon-san in Kyoto a few weeks back.



We started dinner with a pasta course, Ofella alla Triestina - a spinach and sausage filled ravioli, served with 4 vintages of the Veliko Bianco, Movia's flagship cuvée, a blend of Ribolla, Chardonnay, Sauvignon (blanc) and Pinot Grigio, aged for 3 years in Slavonian (not Slovenian) oak. The 2004, the only vintage not poured from jeroboam, was easily the brightest - floral and spicy with good balance. The 2001 was softer, more mineral driven, but seemed to me in an awkward phase - not very giving. In contrast, the 1995 and 1990 were very much alive, and while the acidity may have tamed with time, any loss was clearly offset by the gained depth and complexity. Earth and mineral driven palate, with floral and almost tropical notes on the nose.

The fish course followed, Tonno fresco sott'olio con verdure primaverili - olive oil poached tuna with spring greens. Paired with 3 vintages of the single varietal Ribolla Gialla, and one of the special Ribolla Gialla bottling, the Lunar. The 2006 Ribolla is simply great wine, perfectly aligned with my preferences - lean, austere, bright and stony, with nut oil and olive fruit highlights. Wonderful with the tuna. The next two wines though, were revelations. First, the 1971 - slightly subdued nose, dill and gumdrops, but incredibly complex and layered on the palate, quite rich, earth and mineral driven, but with vegetal and white fruit notes, abundant, but balanced by the still lively acidity. 1971! The next wine was from 1967 - while the palate was certainly less complex, it had everything on the nose that the 1971 lacked - apples, snap peas, carroway, lacquer. Amazing wines.

As we moved onto the 2007 Lunar, a wine I enjoyed tremendously on my visit to Ljubljana, Aleš started diving into his philosophical approaches. A phrase that stuck with me, describing the tightrope a winemaker, or at least Aleš walks: "The best wine is almost vinegar." I truly enjoy this style of "cloudy" wine. Of a family with, but clearly different than the 2006 I'd tried before - floral, smoky, tannic, and super complex, yes, but without the very prominent savoury herbal notes. Will be interesting to follow these wines.

Around this time, Aleš started talking about his youth, in particular his lack of interest in wine, and preference for football. Which got me to thinking, who does he remind me of?


Vinnie Jones (former footballer) and Aleš Kristančič (would-be former footballer). Separated at birth? I also happen to think that Peter Garrett (Midnight Oil) and Pierluigi Collina (football referee) must be related. This would be one bad-ass bald-headed gang.

The secondi piatti was Capretto arrosto con patate in tecia - roasted baby goat with braised potatoes. Ah, goat meat... one of life's great meat pleasures. Paired with 4 more jeroboam, this time of the Veliko Rosso, the cuvée of Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Nero, and Merlot. To preface, I've not been all that keen on Friulian red wines made from the internationally grown varietals. Point me towards Tazzelenghe (tongue cutting), Schiopettino (gunshot) or Refosco dal pedunculo rosso instead, thank you very much. I appreciate the restraint and elegance of Movia's reds, both the cuvée and the single varietal bottlings, but for me, they've tended to tip towards the dull side. Good wine, great for food, but not so interesting. I found the 2001 and 2002 in particular overly-oaked (perhaps not so by "international" standards, but still), showing mostly on the nose. On the palate, these were lean and elegant wines, but mostly a frame looking for a picture. The 1995 looked a bit tired and brown, but was surprisingly tannic and stand-offish - it was a bit strange, though started to come around towards the end of the evening. An enigma. The 1983 on the other hand, was genuinely interesting and alive from the outset - some Musarian character without the brett funk. Slightly more expensive on release than the Musar though, and needing 25+ years to get going? Not the best proposition for me.

To wrap things up, some cheeses - robiola, brunet, and la tur along with a jeroboam of 2003 Puro Rose, disgorged (after lengthy wrestling) at the table by Aleš, who, by the way, has humongous hands. That and the Vinnie Jones connection suggests that it best not to cross Aleš, charmer that he is notwithstanding.

And that was dinner. The food was good, the Puro Rose was a party in a glass, the white wines were for me confirmation and revelation both. The reds were merely good. The goings on after dinner, well, I guess you had to be there. All I can tell you is I woke up mid-day, lightly feverish and confused, achy and broken... like a pig shat in my head... which explains all...