55 Stations on the Sake Road

Another fine day in the trenches at the JFC Expo in Manhattan. Of course, it's taken me two days and counting to recover!

Nakai Shuzo, Tottori Prefecture - certified organic in 2005, and exporting for the first time this year.

• Kuromon Junmai Ginjo: Yamada Nishiki milled to 55%, SMV +2, acidity 1.8, amino acidity 1.2, 16.3% abv. Sweet nose, full flavoured but with a very nice dry and bitter finish. There is also a hand-pressed Junmai Daiginjo version, milled to 33%.
  
• Také Junmai Daiginjo: Tamasakae (a local Tottori rice) milled to 50%, SMV +6, acidity 1.6, amino acidity 1.4, and 18.6% abv. This is muroka - unfiltered - and genshu - undiluted (though, the alcohol is completely hidden.) It is also very full flavoured for a Daiginjo - assertive, very dry, almost woody, with a strong bite on the finish. Dangerously drinkable.

Nakai-san was on hand to pour, and really a nice way to start. I hope to see more of his sake!


Miyazaki Honten, Mie Prefecture.

• Gokujyo Miyanoyuki Honjozo: The process on this one is unusual, I've not seen or heard of this before, but it involves a mix of steamed and malted rice. Gohyakumangoku 55%, 45% "other", steamed rice milled to 65%, malted rice milled to 60%. SMV +1.5, acidity 1.5, amino acidity 1.6, 15.5% abv. I found this very mellow and grassy. I'd really like to try this in a solo session to see what this malting business is all about.
  
• Miyanoyuki Tanrei Junmai Namachozo: Namachozo refers to a sake that is only pasteurised once, after bottle maturation (meaning that it is stored nama - this is the opposite of hiya-oroshi, which is pasterurised only once, before storage). Again Gohyakumangoku and local rice, with the mix of rice and malted rice, same milling percentages as the Gokujyo. SMV +1, acidity 1.3, amino acidity 1.4, 13.5% abv. Very low! This was very soft, nutty, and creamy. Not very nama, but unusual.
  
• Nyukon Junmai Daiginjo: Gohyakumangoku milled to 40% and allegedly "popular amongst women". Very fruity, with an unmistakeable aroma and flavour of lychee. Which, since I don't much care for this fruit, not my thing.

Kenbishi, Hyogo Prefecture. The legendarily reclusive and mysterious Kenbishi, and one of the four breweries to do a 100% wild airborne yeast sake! I was excited to try this! Not only that, but each generation of Kenbishi owners introduces exactly one new product - this being the first new offering in 25 years.

• Mizuho Kuromatsu Kenbishi Junmai Yamahai: A blend of Yamadanishiki and Aiyama rice, SMV ±0. Chilled, this is full and wide, but with great supporting acidity. It's for the most part clean and mellow, but it disappears for a moment before rising back up with a crisp, dry, and extremely sudden and surprising finish. Warmed up, it is certainly rounder and creamier, very very fine. Would be very hard to peg this as yamahai. Very accomplished sake!

Ninki Shuzo, Fukushima Prefecture. If I understood this correctly, this brewery is run by the younger brother of the president of Kenbishi, and produces only tezukuri (hand-made) ginjo-shu. Ninki, in this case, does not mean "popular", but rather "man's soul" (nin-ki). According to shacho, the full name of Ninki-ichi means "making the world's best sake by soul." Ambitious.

• Ninkiichi Kuroninki Junmai Ginjo: Fukushima rice milled to 60%, SMV +3.5, acidity 1.0. Silky, smooth, and very well-balanced.
  
• Ninkiichi Shizuku Junmai Daiginjo: Free-run dripped sake. A relatively full-flavoured daiginjo, sweet aroma, nice complexity, and a very lively and crisp finish. Very expensive too.

Asabiraki Shuzo, Iwate Prefecture. These guys make Suijin (water gods), nice stuff, very dry (SMV +10). I only tasted the other items.

• Nanburyu Junmai: Toyo Nishiki milled to 60%, SMV +2, acidity 1.4, 15.5% abv. Clean and smooth, with a surprising cedar note. I am assured that this is not taru-zake.
  
• Samurai Blade Junmai: Iwate-mai, SMV +2.5, acidity 1.5, amino acidity 1.2, 15.5% abv. Misnamed and poorly named (maybe it's only for the export market?) This is anything but sharp. Of the line-up, only the Suijin reminds me of a Katana.
  
• Wild Grape Tokubetsu Junmai: This is actually the Nanburyu junmai sake blended with the juice of a wild mountain grape that grows near the brewery. SMV -45, acidity 10.9, 7.5% abv. It's unusual - looks disconcertingly like Benadryl, but it's only a little bit sweet, musty strawberries, fresh yogurt, nice pucker and acidity. Despite the gimmickiness, it's not bad at all. I probably wouldn't buy it though.
  

Yamagata Honten, Yamaguchi Prefecture. Yamagata-san was on hand, and pretty chatty today. I think he's having a good time on this tour. I was glad to see him, because I've had a couple of questionable bottles of their main offering, the Kaori. In both cases though, I've thought that the sake was either old or poorly stored, so I was keen to try what he'd brought with him.

• Kaori Junmai Ginjo: Yamada Nishiki milled to 60%, SMV +3, acidity 1.5, amino acidity 1.3, and 14.5% abv. Fruity aroma, light, simple, clean and refreshing on the palate. This was nothing like what I've had before, which definitely tasted old, or hineka. I explained my experience with Yamagata-san and he said that this particular product really should be consumed within 6 months of shipping - good to know, and I will certainly relay that to the shop where I buy.
  
• Choushu Roman Tokubetsu Junmai: Made from an antique local rice varietal called Kokuryo Miyako-mai, which the brewery has been trying to revive for the past 20 years. Milled to 70%, SMV +2, acidity 1.5, 15.5% abv. A very rich and nutty nose, very much reminded me of a yamahai-style sake (but which Yamagata-san says it is not - the savouriness is a characteristic of this rice type). The palate is very much cleaner and simple, smooth, with a dry and nicely bitter finish.
  
• Mouriko Daiginjo: Yamada Nishiki milled to 30%, SMV +3, acidity 1.3, 14.5% abv. Very mild and elegant, one might say classic Daiginjo, but I still very much preferred the Choushu Roman.

Ippongi, Fukui Prefecture.

• Denshin Ine Junmai: Koshi no Shizuku milled to 60%, SMV +0, acidity 1.4, 15.5% abv. Smooth and round, very mild.
  
• Denshin Yuki Junmai Ginjo: A blend of Yamada Nishiki and Gohyakumangoku milled to 55%, SMV +5, acidity 1.5, 15.5% abv. Mild aroma, dry, clean and refreshing taste. It's been a while since I've had this. The best of the lot, I think.
  
• Denshin Rin Junmai Daiginjo: Koshi no Shizuku rice milled to 45%, SMV +5.5., acidity 1.2, 16.5% abv. Mellow, round, a little flat on the finish.
  
• Ginkoubai Hannya Tou "Hot Plum Sake": Wild, wild stuff. Reminds me of "duck sauce" spiked with chili and alcohol. Way too sweet to drink more than a thimble full, but it was kind of fun. Not a very good picture of the bottles below:

Shiragiku, Okayama Prefecture. I'm very familiar with this outfit's "Ohkagura", I consider it a very reliable honjozo, so I was interested to try their lineup.

• Shiragiku Nigori Junmai: A very unusual, dry nigorizake. Gohyakumangoku and Akebono milled to 65%, SMV +1, acidity 1.2, amino acidity 1.3, 14.5% abv. Gritty and full, not at all sweet, surprisingly bright.
  
• Honnama Outouka Honjozo: Akebono milled to 60%, SMV +3, acidity 0.9, 13.5% abv. Also a bit unusual, low acidity. Very grassy, lots of popped corn and nutty notes.
  
• Bichuwajo Junmai Ginjo: Omachi milled to 50%, SMV +4.5, acidity 1.3, amino acidity 1.2, 14.5% abv. Strong, earthy Omachi character, smooth, dry finish.

Aiyu Shuzo, Ibaraki Prefecture.

• Tomoju Junmai Ginjo: Gohyakumangoku rice, SMV +2, acidity 1.2, amino acidity 1.1, 15.5% abv. Overpowering nose of banana Now & Later candies... nail polish, very chemical smell. Couldn't get past it, didn't feel like carrying on.

Choryo Shuzo, Nara Prefecture.

• Sawasawa Junmai Sparkling Nigorizake: Omachi, SMV -55, acidity 2.3, 8.5% abv. Very leesy nose. Sweet, yes, bright and clean. Again, they compare this to Champagne. Not a good comparison. Did I mention how sweet this was?
  
• Omachi Toku Tokubetsu Junmai: Omachi, SMV +2, acidity 1.5, 15.5% abv. Earthy nose, shellac, peanuts. Smooth, soft, round, and very elegant. The difference between this and the Kawachi appears to be that this sees some extended bottle age.
  
• Kawachi Ondo Junmai Ginjo: Also Omachi, SMV +2, acidity 1.5, 15.5% abv. A slightly sharper version of the Toku.
  
• Tsukihi Kasanete Genshu Honjozo Koshu: Omachi rice, SMV +0, acidity 1.9, 19.5% abv. Brewed in 1992 and matured in stainless steel at 7 to 9°C until being bottled earlier this year. Very chocolaty, molasses, coating of umami, great lift and balance. Superb. Co-SOTD.

Tanzan Shuzo, Kyoto Prefecture. NOT from Fushimi, but Arashiyama instead. That is the best thing I can say about these sake - and not because I prefer either Fushimi or Arashiyama over the other.

• Japon Junmai Sparkling Sake: Gohyakumangoku milled to 65%, SMV -62, acidity 5.8, 8.5% abv. Described as being similar to Champagne. Watch out for the libel suits. Served with a squeeze of lemon. I'd rather suck on the lemon.
  
• Bonki Junmai: The still version of the Japon, really brings out the lychee/longan-ness. Which is unfortunate.
  
• Shun Junmai Ginjo Genshu: I also shun this one. Maybe the previous two biased me completely, but this did not taste like an SMV +4. It didn't taste like 18% either though.

Banjo Shuzo, Nagoya Prefecture.

• Kamoshibito Kuheiji Junmai Ginjo: Yamada Nishiki rice milled to 50%, SMV +1, 16.5% abv. Rather tropical fruit nose, clean, no rough edges, with nice cedar highlights. It does feel old-fashioned in a classical sort of way.

Daishichi, Fukushima Prefecture. The famed Daishichi, they of the Kimoto only and the proprietary "super-flat" rice polishing. A great chance to try the line-up - everything except the Myoka Rangyuku and the various koshu.

• Daishichi Kimoto Classic Junmai: Gohyakumangoku ("super-flat" polishing), SMV +3, acidity 1.5, amino acidity 1.2, 15.5% abv. This differs from the Daishichi Kimoto Junmai in that it is bottle-aged for a year. Creamy, robust, lots of rice and mineral, great balance.
  
• Daishichi Kimoto Shizenshu Junmai: Same as the Classic, except using organic Gohyakumangoku. SMV +2, acidity 1.5, 14.5% abv. Notably softer and rounder than the Classic.
  
• Daishichi Masakura Junmai Ginjo: Gohyakumangoku ("super-flat" polishing), SMV +3, acidity 1.3, amino acidity 1.0, 15.5% abv. Nutty/floral nose, velvety entry, but then super acidity and a great bitter finish.
  
• Daishichi Minowamon Junmai Daiginjo: Yamada Nishiki ("super-flat" polishing), SMV ±0, acidity 1.5, amino acidity 1.2, 15.5% abv. Very clean nose, elegant and clean on the palate as well. Very nice acidity on the finish
  
• Daishichi Houreki Junmai Daiginjo: Yamada Nishiki ("super-flat" polishing), SMV +2, acidity 1.3, amino acidity 1.2, 16.5% abv. A shizuku (free-run dripping) sake, aged for two years. Much more serious and brooding, complex sweetness, but not particularly fruity. Thoughtful and provoking.
  
• Daishichi Kimoto Ume-shu: The base sake for this plum wine is the regular Daishichi Junmai Kimoto (which was not poured). Much milder and drier than most ume-shu, I think in part because the concentration of plum is on the lower side. Smooth and velvety.

It started to get a bit crowded towards the latter half.

Fujii Shuzo, Hiroshima Prefecture.

• Ryusei Tokubetsu Junmai: Hatta Nishiki milled to 60%, SMV +6, acidity 1.8, amino acidity 1.2, 16.5% abv. Very smoky, barbecued Chinese sausage nose. Complex and assertively full flavoured.
  
• Ryusei Junmai Daiginjo: Yamada Nishiki, SMV +6, 16% abv. A great contrast to the tokubetsu junmai - very smooth and elegant, still a touch of savouriness.

Kita Shuzo, Shiga Prefecture.

• Kirakucho Chokara Junmai Ginjo: No details on this, but very crunchy dry and crisp, nice bitter finish.

Kitaoka Honten, Nara Prefecture.

• Yatagarasu Taru Junmai: Kinuhikari milled to 65%, SMV +1.5, acidity 1.5, amino acidity 1.2, 14.7% abv. A very mild wood aged sake (though, they tell me it only spends "a couple of days" in the sugi barrels). Reminded me not unfavourably of the Taruhei, but not as dry.
  

Yatsushika Shuzo, Oita Prefecture.

• Yatsushika Tokubetsu Junmai: Yamada Nishiki and Reihou milled to 60%, SMV +1, acidity 1.5, amino acidity 1.5, 15% abv. Rich, creamy, pretty earthy.
  
• Yatsushika Gen Junmai Daiginjo: Yamada Nishiki milled to 40%, SMV +3, acidity 1.2, amino acidity 1.1, 15% abv. Sweet, round, nicely balanced though, with some herbal touches.

Tateyama Shuzo, Toyama Prefecture.

• Tateyama Junmai: A blend of Gohyakumangoku and Yamada Nishiki, very spring-water like, very very easy to drink.

Suehiro Shuzo, Fukushima Prefecture. Their regular honjozo, Kira, is super dry, +15! I've had this a few times, not for the faint of heart!

• Suehiro Yamahai Junmai: Super - complex, yet very, very clean. A different sort of Yamahai from the Tengumai which I'm such a fan of, but oh so delicious. This was not listed on the program, but was a secret bottle uncovered by a friend at the Expo. Co-SOTD
  
• Ken Junmai Daiginjo: Yamada Nishiki milled to 40%, SMV +3, acidity 1.3, 16%abv. A classic example, very fragrant and clean.
  

Seiryu Shuzo, Ehime Prefecture.

• Miyosakae Tenmi Junmai Daiginjo: Matsuyama Mitsui, SMV +3, acidity 1.4, 15.3% abv. A very oddly shaped bottle, like a misshapen lute. A little bit on the sweet side, but with a sharp dry finish. Didn't particularly strike me one way or the other.

Shindo Shuzo, Yamagata Prefecture. My first encounter with this brewery was only last year at a sake bar in Ginza. It was namazake - perhaps even the Fuka I tasted today, and I liked it a lot. Shindo-san will not ship to any store that does not have cold storage, there's a lot to like in that (and the man gave me a Gasanryu t-shirt. Unfortunately, Japanese XL is, well, not XL.) He was fairly beaming today, having last night won some awards from IWC.

• Ura-Gasanryu Koka Honjozo: Miyama Nishiki milled to 65%, SMV +2, acidity 1.0, amino acidity 0.9, 14.8% abv. There's also a note about "non-heated bottling" - sounds like nama-chozo. Fragrant nose, pretty soft overall.
  
• Ura-Gasanryu Fuka Junmai: Yamada Nishiki milled to 65%, SMV ±0, acidity 1.4, amino acidity 1.3, 14.2% abv. Fresh nose, very well balanced (the stronger acidity setting off against the higher residual sugar). Harmonious even.
  
• Gasanryu Kisaragi Daiginjo: Dewasansan milled to 50%, SMV +3, acidity 1.2, amino acidity 1.0, 14.2% abv, nama-chozo. Gorgeous sake. Fragrant, very cool and clean. My favorite of the lot (and Shindo-san's too - I think this is why I received a t-shirt.)
  
• Gasanryu Gokugetsu Junmai Daiginjo: Dewasansan milled to 40%, SMV +1, acidity 1.4, amino acidity 1.2, 16.2% abv. Not nama-chozo'ed. Very fragrant, very light and clean, almost ephemeral. It certainly echoes the mizumitai ideal, but I'd still rather drink the Kisaragi.

Well, I'm kind of wishing I hadn't dallied over lunch quite so much. While I did skip over the endless varieties of Ozeki, Hakushika, and Hakutsuru, I also missed out on Chiyomusubi (I know their "quivering tongued-devil" (Oni no Shitaburui) well, but they had a selection of cup sake I would have liked to have tried), Hachinohe (there was a nama version of their Hachitsuru Junmai as well as a yamahai), Sasaichi (their Madoka Honjozo is very easy drinking), Yoshikubo, Kawashima, Koikawa, and so on... a pretty extensive selection, and I barely touched any shochu (except for a couple of Awamori.)

After the expo finished up, we walked up to Times Square, where completely unexpectedly, one finds a great little sake bar, Hagi. The dishes came fast and furiously... fried oysters, eel tempura, grilled yellowtail collar, some sort of sausage, chicken skin yakitori, gyoza, shumai, soft-shelled crab, burdock root chips, pan-fried noodles, and on and on... and to drink... Otokoyama tokubetsu junmai, Tengumai junmai yamahai (the great one I had earlier in the summer), Chikurin junmai ginjo, Kagatoubi junmai ginjo (I love their boutique in Ginza), and one I can't seem to place - I wonder if we got to the Narutotai genshu. It's only fitting that after a long day like this, some little bit of mystery remains...