Desert Protocol III: The Pianomen Sessions

It definitely took strength and resolve to follow on from Saturday night's festivities, but we were all up to the task. We started with a coffee stout, Mikkeller's Jackie Brown (6% abv, light and bitter, just the right way to get things started.)

Up next was the 1999 Movia Puro Rose (Goriška Brda), again disgorged. Video footage to follow. I think the couple of days rest made a big difference this time, as it was notably fresher than our Thanksgiving Day bottle, good minerality, less round. Good work, but now time to start eating.


B. clearly has a way with the kitchen. Exhibit A: Chorizo frittata. Delicious, and unexpectedly (i.e., completely unplanned), a great pairing with the Movia Puro Rose.

Now, back to work, a pair of seductive whites:

• 2004 Domaine Marc Kreydenweiss Riesling Andlau (Andlau) - now this is an Alsatian wine I could get into - dry, sharp, almost cidery, citrus and mineral.
  
• 1998 Weingut Willi Bründlmayer Grüner Veltliner Alte Reben (Kamptal) - who says G.V. only ages glacially? This was showing strong secondary characteristics, it was even more Alsatian than the Kreydenweiss. Med+ body, lots of minerality and apple/pear notes, not so much citrus or vegetable.

A house special adaptation, ramekin-baked egg, bechamel and gouda over shitaki. Followed by an assortment of grilled sausages.

• 2002 Chateau Musar Rouge (Bekaa Valley) - Hello. How's it going? Nice to meet you. Classically funky nose, red and spicy, relatively straightforward (for now) but very approachable.
  
• 1989 Mas de Daumas Gassac Vin de Pays de l'Hérault (Languedoc) - fruit, herbality and meatiness in elegant and seductive balance, like a breathless whisper.
  
• 1973 Bodegas Riojanas Monte Real Gran Reserva (Rioja) - delightfully sanguine, with delicious tar, orange peel, and floral notes.

Tataki-style Ahi, to go with a bit of sake:

• Daishichi Houreki (Fukushima) - a beautiful shizuku (free-run droplets) Junmai Daiginjo from this kimoto specialist, one of their top of the line sake. SMV +2, acidity 1.3, amino acidity 1.2, 16.5% abv. I believe this is an older vintage than the one I tried in the summer, expressed a little differently - cooling, soothing clay and petrichor nose, with melon and mineral tones to the pure and sweet springwater finish. This is mizumitai.

Next, a flight of whites with cheese (Moucou ColoRouge,an epoisses-style washed rind cow's milk cheese from Colorado, Iberico, Amentizia Carpini (Sardinia), and Bittersweet Dairy Holy Cow Vache Sante (Lousiana), a triple cream that is firm yet runny... go figure):

• 2004 Jacques Puffeney Arbois Cuvée Sacha (Arbois) - walnut nose, plenty of lively mineral and sous voile character, but relatively tame for the style.
  
• 2004 Emmanuel Houillon Arbois Pupillin Maison Pierre Overnoy (Arbois) - I was a bit surprised by this not very lively expression - it felt rather full and contented with itself, i.e., none of the more tangy edges of the Puffeney here, to say nothing of the '04 Macle Côtes du Jura. Perhaps just in a funny place?
  
• 2003 Chateau Musar Blanc (Bekaa Valley) - very tight, simply not giving much right away, some nice saline, mineral and citrus, I'm sure a day or two open will put this right.
  
• 1988 Fiorano (Boncompagni Ludovisi) Sémillon Vino da Tavola Bianco Botte 47 (Latium) - a dry, funky, floral and minty Sémillon, slightly hazy, and with an abundance of sediment and life to it. Fascinating stuff.

And finally, as our brunch dessert:

• 2002 Alois Kracher Chardonnay/Welschriesling Grande Cuvée TBA #7 Nouvelle Vague (Burgenland) - wonderful balance, apricot, peach, pear, spices and more butter.

And back to the airport... very happy holidays indeed.