La Ville Aux Cent Clochers

R. and I spent the past weekend in Montréal - so close, yet neither of us had ever been.

We drove up through the Thousand Islands, stopping briefly here and there to check out local dining specialities. This (Indian & Canadian cuisine), we did not try. This, we do not even understand.

Upon reaching our hotel and seeing the shower, we understood that privacy was not a priority.

The city does have a shiny new public bike system called Bixi. Heavy bikes, short seat-post, giant beach wheels. Not heavily recommended for the 6-footers, but fun for short distances. Coming soon to Boston and London.

My mother had said that the Chinatown stores sometimes have langsats. I was very keen to get some, but couldn't find any... "only" mangosteens. There was also this "Dragon's Beard" - spun sugar with sesame, ground peanuts, chocolate, and coconut. Instant diabetic coma.

Can't pass up a meal at "Sumo Ramen."

The Sumo Volcano was sort of like a mild tantenmen... maybe an inactive volcano. They told me afterwards, that spice level is for the Canadians, you have to ask specifically for the hot stuff. I thought I had.

R.'s vegetarian "poireau" (leeks) ramen... looks like a bird is building a nest.

La Joute - an over-the-top fountain by one Jean-Paul Riopelle - mist, smoke, fire, abstract figures, surrounded by 11 species of indigenous trees, an "urban" forest.

Wandering through Vieux Montréal. Not bike friendly, those cobblestones. Good thing we had the beach tires.


But poutine? Fries with gravy and cheese curds. Not as good as patatje oorlog... R. was not impressed.

Stopped in at a bookstore, I wanted to get some more Mordecai Richler, but came across my friend's new book instead. Can't wait to read it (I had already gotten my copy, thank you very much.)

That thing about privacy. None to be had at this dentist's office. Not just showers and dentists either. Very odd.

Retreat to The Plateau, one of 4 bars at our hotel. Painfully hip.

R. having understood the dastardliness of "You Must Kill" chess. She quickly developed a knack for end-game-jujitsu. Not good, for me.

Mangosteens and Hakutsuru Junmai Ginjo (apart from a $75 bottle of Kagatoubi (from Fukumitsuya, who I like a lot)), this, sadly, was the best thing available at SAQ. Weep for sake-loving Québécois (well, this isn't that bad, just a bit innocuous). The mangosteens were good though. Made up for a thoroughly uninspiring dinner at the Indian restaurant, Ghandi. I wanted steak frites, and despite R.'s vegetarianism, I can't say she wouldn't have been happier at a steakhouse.


Early the next morning, we hopped onto the Metro and went to the Marché Jean Thalon, a huge farmer's market, with absolutely beautiful (and cheap) produce (click for larger pictures).

There are also excellent bakeries, halal shops, florists, and a stockist with local beer and cider. And wine. And vinegar - lots and lots of vinegar.

However, where there is good, there is also questionable. I'm wondering where the keg of gravy and the vat of cheese curds are kept.

We loved how bike-friendly the city is - bike lanes everywhere, and for a city of this size (3M-ish), not that many cars on the street. Very walkable too.

Green spaces in the old port, in front of the Marché Bonsecours.

Even the Molson brewery is downtown.

Poutine after liquor, I can almost understand. Hot dogs + Poutine + Liqueur (Liqueur!!!) sounds like punishment. I'm afraid to ask what a Pogo is. Especially since it is inconceivable that it should be served + Poutine. Fortunately, this place was closed, or I would have had to have tried one. For my brunch.

Is it any wonder why a restaurant specialising in the cuisine of the CCCP was shuttered? Probably all the Vladimir Putin Poutine they were trying to flog. Clearly, a sign for us to head home. We'll check out the belltowers next time.

We really were hoping we'd see a bit of fall colour on the drive home, but it was just too early. Ausable Chasm just over the border in New York was still pretty green, but I can imagine this place will be spectacular in a couple of weeks.

All was not lost though - our short Ausable detour took us through Peru, NY, where we came away with a freshly baked, still hot blueberry pie! Yes, we've got pie!