Chateau Musar: Serge Hochar's 50th Anniversary Dinner

Serge Hochar was in NYC last week, and on Sunday evening came to Hearth Restaurant to celebrate his 50th year of winemaking at Chateau Musar. Interesting and intimate group of 30-odd diners, hosted by Paul Grieco, with Broadbent and crew in attendance. A stupendous evening, definitely a highlight in my wine "career".

All bottles were opened only at 5PM (Reception started at 6, we sat for dinner around 7). All bottles were were double decanted, but we were specifically advised that none of the bottles were washed - in the end, the 1999 was the only one with noticeable sediment (something I've noticed with several bottles of this vintage, and rarely with others.)

Reception started with the three Cuvée wines. Main item of note here is that the Cuvée Blanc, which is normally 100% Obaideh, is this year a blend of vermentino, viognier, and chardonnay! It was very fresh and lean, I was just a bit taken aback by the change.

Serge was in fine philosopher form. Here are some little witticisms: "Don't ask me about the wine, I don't know anything"; "This wine is the best medicine you could invent"; "I have no clue" [why the wine gets fresher as it gets older]; "This is not a wine tasting, it is a dinner tasting. Let's only talk about how the food is enhanced by the wine"; You get the idea.

The Red Wines.

First Course - Duck Liver Paté with Brioche Toast, Figs and Marcona Almonds

1999 Chateau Musar Rouge - very very tight, not very giving. Unsurprisingly, given the recent opening. A fair amount of sediment, almost cloudy.

1995 Chateau Musar Rouge - meaty and full, but not showing it's best, certainly not in this flight. I'm usually very keen on this vintage, the bottle I had just a few weeks was far tastier.

1981 Chateau Musar Rouge - WOTF. Beautifully balanced, sanguine, tomato aspic. Delicious! On the evening, Serge claimed that this is the youngest Rouge ready to drink. But haven't I heard similar words by Serge about other vintages? But then again, when asked about this and other mysteries, Serge said: "I have no clue." Awesome.


Second Course - Tortellini with Mushroom Consommé, Savoy Cabbage
Second Course - Tortellini with Mushroom Consommé, Savoy Cabbage

1972 Chateau Musar Rouge - very quiet, like it was taking a nap. There was a suggestion that it was shutting down - so, again, Serge, when pressed on why the wines seem to get younger? "This is a silly question," followed by "I have no clue."

1966 Chateau Musar Rouge - Red WOTN, pretty much a consensus opinion. Lithe and expansive, very satisfying.


Third Course - Roasted Chatham Cod with Black Cabbage, Chickpeas and Smoked Garlic

1999 Chateau Musar Blanc - smoky and tangy.

1998 Chateau Musar Blanc - lovely, lovely wine. Lots of sweet pastry notes. WOTF.

1995 Chateau Musar Blanc - lighter, cleaner style, with a pronounced herbal finish. Very good, but I think the '98 superior right on the night. Of course, it's probably 30 years too young or something.


The White Wines.

Fourth Course - Roasted Guinea Hen with Pancetta and Market Vegetables

1969 Chateau Musar Blanc - fresh, bright, endless, youthful, lots of walnut and caramel notes. Blanc WOTN.

1964 Chateau Musar Blanc - relatively quiet - maybe it's shutting down!

1959 Chateau Musar Blanc - a melange of high-toned apricot jam, Stilton and mushroom, both on the nose and the palate. It was SO aggressive, bright, and fresh, one would be forgiven for thinking this is unfinished, fresh out of the barrel. It's going backwards. In another 10 years, there will probably be whole grapes inside. Only 200 bottles left at the property.

Cheese - Brebis Pyrénées (sheep), Five Spoke Creamery Tumbleweed (cow), Boeren Kaas (cow), Vella Dry Jack (cow)

2000 Chateau Musar Blanc - Blanc and cheese. It's the new comfort food.


With the great man himself. A tremendous evening!