Cantillon

Jean Van Roy of Belgium's Cantillon was in town over the weekend, to take part in some of the Philly Beer Fest activities. He also took the time to stop into one of our local winebars for a chat with the locals. Even on a Sunday afternoon, Jean was swarmed inside - seems he's a bit of a legend around these parts.

Not for us the big crowds though. We chose instead to cool our heels under the awning, refreshing ourselves with a couple of rounds of Cantillon's Fou'Foune (5% abv), a lambic flavoured with Bergeron apricots, hand stoned at the brewery and soaked in two-year-old lambic for two months. Apparently, this is to be the last batch of Fou'Foune, as Francois Daronnat, the Bergeron-grower has decided to retire from the fruit trade. Or so we hear. Anyways, this was from a barrel, nicely chilled. Brilliant orange-yellow, mango-colour and full of fruit on the palate - the apricots were unmistakable, as was the brett funk. Sour, with pretty intense acidity, yet coming together with a pillowy soft mouthfeel. Surprisingly sessionable, even though the acidity half left one feeling a bit of heartburn afterwards.

Nonetheless, this being my first Cantillon experience (not for lack of interest), I had to give the "Classic" Gueuze (also 5% abv) a go as well. A blend of 1, 2 and 3 year old lambics, it is advised that aging for 20 years will reveal rich rewards. Not having so much time, I was taken a bit aback by this, as it wasn't at all as funky as I expected. In fact, though lacking the very appealing fruit, I found this even smoother and approachable than the Fou'Foune. Very impressive stuff.