Stripped-Theise

Following on from the Movia dinner, and the late-night party that ensued at Terroir with Johannes Leitz supplying very large bottles of his latest releases, Tuesday was the latest edition of the Skurnik/Theise tastings at City Winery in Manhattan. Sadly, I had managed to pick up a bit of a cold, so I'm giving my own notes a very very wide berth due to diminished capacity. Nonetheless, there were a couple of things I wouldn't mind checking back in on.

Kreinbacher (Nagy, Hungary) - new to the Skurnik portfolio. On offer were the 2007 Somlói Kuvé, dry with stern acidity and medium presence, and the Juhfark, which was very similar, just slightly amplified, but also slightly more serious. I preferred the latter, but both were quite nice.

Prieler (Burgenland) - two 2008s, the Blaufränkisch Johanneshöhe (crystalline, floral, gossamer lightness, savoury and peppery. Yummy, yummy) and the Blaufränkisch Leithaberg (much darker all around, very chewy and tannic and much less approachable.)

Bründlmayer (Kamptal) - I tried two bubblies, and both were very foamy, it was strange. I found the 2005 Sekt was just a bit too grape-y, it rather sadly reminded me of German sekt, though with a bit more refinement and acidity. Pass. The NV Rose though was a much less obvious wine, with lively structure, and a very peachy character, both in colour and in everything else... I only tried one still wine, the 2009 Ried Käferberg Grüner Veltliner, and while the aromatics, such as I could tell, seemed spot on, I found the palate a bit musty.

Schloss Gobelsburg (Kamptal) - I think I was feeling a wee bit depressed about not enjoying Willi B's Käferberg, so I only tried the 2009 Gobelsburger Rose, and that only because it was in the fellow's hand as I got to the table. It seemed a pleasant rose and not much more.

Hiedler (Kamptal) - this was a real letdown for me. R. and I LOVED the 2007 Grüner Veltliner Thal, it was just perfectly crisp and delicious. Then the 2008 rolled around and it was flat and musty. Well, the 2009 isn't musty, but it's so soft and round, it's hard to imagine any connection between this and the '07.

Hirsch (Kamptal) - I didn't enjoy the '08's but I'm hoping the 2009 Grüner Veltliner Heiligenstein is a sign that things are back on the right track. Fairly green and vegetal, good presence and mouthfeel, with decent but not stellar acidity. Wouldn't turn down a glass though.

Nikolaihof (Wachau) - is it fair to borrow a baseball analogy and say this was the third strike? I tried three of their Grüner Veltliners, the 2009 Hefeabzug, the 2009 Im Weingebirge Federspiel, and the 2008 Im Weingebirge Smaragd, and these are uniformly in a soft and rounded style that just generates no interest for me. Three consecutive vintages I've tried, the same, so I'm done with Nikolaihof.

Reisetbauer (Styria) - A JEROBOAM of Apple Eau de Vie! Yikes! And it was almost empty. I sampled his new sparkling apple cider, it was nice, but it wasn't scrumpy. I'll stick to the distillates, thank you.

Ok, well, that exhausts the Austrian things I tried, onto the miscellaneous.

2009 Roger Labbé Vin de Savoie 'Abymes' (100% Jacqueres) - the opposite of what this varietal should be, I think.

2009 Terenzuola Vermentino Nero (Toscana) - who knew there was a "black" vermentino? This was quite bright and attractive, primary sour cherry fruit, a bit roundish but in a cheap and cheerful sort of way (if indeed this is cheap, it will be cheerful.)

2009 La Cadalora Marzemino (Trentino-Alto Adige) - seriously, the northeast of Italy is where it's at. This was lovely, vibrant and well balanced, floral and dark berried, very tasty. Much better than that sparkling marzemino I tried a while back.

Hmm... I guess that was a short list of miscellaneous... what's left? Champagne. I didn't care so much for the Varnier-Fanniere Grand Cru Brut this time, seemed a bit sweet and soft - I seemed to have rather liked it last time, so I wonder what's going on... maybe just my nose, or maybe nothing at all. For consistency's sake though, I still didn't care so much for the A. Margaine Cuvee Traditionelle, though even softer it seemed drier. Weird. I did enjoy the Gaston-Chiquet "Tradition" Brut, it had a definite savoury/nutty character that was appealing. I can't say that I was moved in either direction by the Rene Geoffroy Empreinte Brut, but it was interesting to note that this wine is entirely from 2004 fruit, but not vintage-declared as it doesn't spend enough time on the lees. The parallel here to Jacquésson et Fils is a very definite plus in my book.

Onwards... the Marc Hébrart Cuvée de Reserve was up to its usual level of deliciosity, a welcome balance of finesse and power. I failed to make any note of the Pehu-Simonet Selection Brut, I wonder if I missed it? I have liked it the last two times out. The Henri Billiot "Reserve" Brut was very nice, fuller-bodied, lots of peppery acidity, just all around tasty. The last wine I didn't get at all, as the 2001 Vilmart & Cie "Couer de Cuvée tasted almost entirely of oak, with a splash of vinegar for interest. I really hope that's the cold talking.

I'm thinking that next time I will forgo the antibiotics and just try the Germans. What have I got to lose?