Saturday, February 13, 2010

Nihonkai Tokubetsu Junmai [1 Koku - 33]

Nihonkai in the park
I think there is a sad story behind this "Sea of Japan" sake. According to the label, released by Shiokawa Shuzo of Niigata. However, the U.S. importer, Mutual Trading, states that this sake is from Ito Shuzo, which makes its home in Mie Prefecture!

As best as I can make out, Nihonkai was the brand name of a sake produced by one Ito-Uchino, of Niigata City. Seems reasonable that the aforementioned Ito Shuzo is the parent company. Well, Ito's Niigata operations have ceased, even some of the brewery's buildings razed. It seems though that at least the Nihonkai brand lives on, presumably through acquisition by Shiokawa. Not great news for Niigata sake, and I'm not entirely sure of this sake's provenance. Shiokawa's website doesn't appear to mention it - indeed, their line of sake is called "Koshi no Seki" (Koshi's Champion). However, Shiokawa does list a tokubetsu junmai under that name with a nearly identical profile to this sake, so it stands to reason that what we have here is an export bottling under the old name.

I don't know when all this took place, but the bottling date is from August, so the brand at least survives. Gohyakumangoku milled to 60%, SMV +4.5, acidity 1.3, amino acidity 1.1, 15% abv. Surprisingly yellow, clear aromas and flavour of steamed rice and minerals, a light savoury touch, almost saline. Quite soft and round, softer than I'd expect, but that might have been to the depth of the cold at which this was "formally" tasted. Clean, solid and enjoyable. I hope we'll continue to enjoy it.

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