Kikuhime Yamahai Junmai [1 Koku - 32]

It isn't often that buying a sake is accompanied by warnings, but Ishikawa Prefecture's Kikuhime's Yamahai sake have developed just such a reputation. As John Gauntner writes, "[T]his is some of the strongest-flavored sake in Japan." Variously described as "for serious sake drinkers," "not for beginners," and "extreme." Well, yes, the yamahai style of sake - airborne yeast, no stirring - typically is a massive departure from the light & clean brews that more commonly carry sake's mantle. If the ideal is mizumitai, yamahai swings to the other end of the spectrum.

I'm not at all averse to yamahai, but the isshobin format is challenging, as these aren't usually session brews. But, to the bold belongs the glory, no? This junmai yamahai is brewed, as are all their sake, from Yamada Nishiki, milled to 70%, SMV +2, acidity 2.0, and 16.5% abv. The first sign that there's something different here is the golden lemon colour. Turns out that the toji has a thing against carbon-filtration - not that he doesn't use it, but just to the bare minimum. Tangy and roasted on the nose, which carries over to the palate, vibrate and savoury. On the sweet side, but the tangyness brings this back to center, layers of nutty caramel sweetness, herbs, wood spice, and savoury tang. Still, not as funky/gamy as I expected, not as much of the mushroom/earth components as in others, but what bright sourness! Excellent, big time stuff, I'd say it's a pretty approachable yamahai - somewhere between the Kariho Namahage and the Tengumai Yamahai. Then again, judging by the reactions of some yamahai neophytes, maybe this is still not for beginners? I hear the genshu version is rather more unhinged!

Now, one more reason to like the folks at Kikuhime: they are hosting a sake tasting with the express intent of pairing sake with Indian food! I've been saying this for a long time now, glad to see someone in Japan is thinking the same way. So, if you are in Shinjo City on Sunday, March 7th, consider a visit to Rubina - three sessions, one at lunch, two at dinner. If I were in the area, this is where I'd be!