moto-i

To top off a day in the Twin Cities, a visit to moto-i, "the first sake brewery restaurant outside of Japan." Part III in the very short series of non-Japanese sake, moto-i is interesting in that, amongst other things, they brew only namazake - unpasteurised, although most are then aged unpasteurised, sort of nama-chozo, except never actually pasteurised. I wonder what the name of this is? Unfortunately, head brewer Blake Richardson was not on hand to pepper with questions, but I'm sure another 28 years won't pass before my next visit to Minnesota.

It appears that there are about 7 regular brews at moto-i, as well as some seasonal batches, all brewed on site (starters in the foreground, main mash behind.) Koji rice is cultivated in a room upstairs. Though I didn't see the machine, we learned that some of the sake is pressed by Yabuta, while others are done with the manual fukurotsuri method, where mash is packed into canvas bags, hung, and allowed to drip free.

(clockwise from top left)

Junmai Genshu Nama: Koshihikari milled to 70%, SMV +9, #701 yeast, 19% abv, Yabuta pressed, and unlike the others, shiboritate - fresh from pressing. Grassy mineral nose, sappy genshu concentration, canteloupes galore, good acidity, a bit sharp and hot, but the life is here. I was, however, the only one at our table to like this.

Futsuu Yamahai Nama: Akita Komachi milled to 63%, SMV +14, #701 yeast, 16% abv, and Yabuta pressed. Syrupy melon nose, very nama, rich and hearty, decidedly less hot than the Junmai Genshu Nama.

Junmai Nigori Nama: Hitomibore milled to 60%, SMV +4, #1801 yeast, 15% abv and Yabuta pressed. An usu-nigori (thin), pleasingly dry, powdery texture, good light fruitedness.

Junmai Tokubetsu Nama: Koshihikari milled to 58%, SMV +5, #901 yeast, 16% abv, and Yabuta pressed. Lacquered, grainy, cinnamon nose, with plenty of character to follow, peanut shells and roasted rice notes, good acidity.

Junmai Ginjo Yamahai Nama: Koshihikari milled to 48%, SMV +2, #701 yeast, 16% abv, and fukurotsuri. Savoury cheesy nose, but lighter on the palate than expected, pretty clean actually, and quite dry. Big contrast from the nose, again, I approved en solo.

Junmai Nama: No information on this given, but from a process perspective, I might guess this is the same as the Junmai Nigori Nama. I found this the least interesting of the brews, but very drinkable, decidedly clean, a bit on the sweet and full side, much leaner and more inviting to our table with a good chill on.


And there you are. Proof again that it is possible to brew decent sake outside Japan (as long as it is brewed with Nordic influence, right?) Perhaps overall a bit sweeter than I like, and the nama-chozoing, for me, well, I'd have preferred to taste it fresh, but really an all-round good effort. The regular Junmai Ginjo Nama was not available, nor were the Junmai Kimoto Nama (the curious omission of yeast information suggesting this is 100% wild!) or the Futsuu Tokubetsu (not really sure what this could possibly mean), so I guess we have to go back.