A (mostly) Riesling tasting

On Friday, enjoyed a (mostly) Riesling tasting, with 7 Germans, and one each from Alsace, my favoured Austria, and Australia. German/Alsatian wines are not usually my thing. I like my dry wines truly dry, and I’ve just not had good luck with these regions. Nevertheless, this was an interesting opportunity to explore some wines I probably would never have bought on my own. My good man C. and I had just been to buy some sake, so while we waited for the stragglers to arrive, we opened a Daishichi Honjozo Kimoto. Will post notes separately. And then, in order,:

2006 A.J. Adam Riesling Kabinett (Mosel-Saar-Ruwer): A declassified wine. Musky nose, muscat, pear, honey, white flowers. On the palate, up front and short, singularly sweet, pear juice and an unpleasant metallic streak. Good acidity, but just too sweet and not enough interest for my taste.

2002 Blanck Riesling Grand Cru Schlossberg (Kientzheim, Alsace): More restraint on the nose than the Adam, floral, touch of petrol, smoke and honey, but also a prominent herbal/menthol note. On the palate, medium-bodied, off-dry, noticeable but not pronounced viscosity, cut by the acidity. Flavour profile was primarily cider and medicinal. Not bad, but I’d be looking for this only after dinner.

2005 Weingut Josef Leitz Rüdesheimer Magdalenenkreuz Riesling Spätlese (Rheingau): Bright, fruity nose, apple, pear, melons. On the palate, good acidity, sweet apple/pear fruit, but a bit one-dimensional.

1990 Kirchmayer Riesling Solist Altenberg (Weinviertel, Austria): Complex nose, musky, grass, prunes, smoke, petrol, orange hard candies. Medium-full bodied, dry, with bright, tangy acidity. Nutty, with chalk/mineral notes and dried stone fruit on the finish. This is much more to my liking. Challenged for WOTN.

2007 Petaluma Hanlin Hill (Clare Valley, Australia): Nose was promising, restrained, if a bit green/vegetal. All over the place on the palate. Pure alcohol to start, then a burst of rotting tropical fruit, and a not unpleasant cheesiness on the finish being the high point. Mineral and acidity? Perhaps, but this was a mess.

2007 Keller Riesling Trocken von der Fels (Rheinhessen): Interesting nose, a pear, melons, something tropical, but also a nice peppery/herbal component, grass, neem leaf. Medium+ body, good acidity. Personally, I wouldn’t describe this as a dry wine, but with the acidity it was nicely balanced. Citrus and minerals, good length, and a very pleasant bitterness on the finish.

1981 Karthäuserhof Eitelsbacher Riesling "Sang" Spatlese (Mosel-Saar-Ruwer): Tremendous nose, smoky, motor oil, grass, cider, light oxidation. Medium bodied, dry, tangy, lovely acidity. No hint of sweetness. Plenty of texture, creamy, with more motor oil, slate, petrichor, and an unmistakeable grapefruit pith top note. My WOTN, but only just.

2005 Theo Minges Gleisweiler Holle Riesling Spatlese (Pfalz): I really couldn’t imagine a more disappointing transition. Simple , sweet, and flabby. That said, the owner of this bottle thought the performance was not representative of prior bottles.

1976 H. Josef Fries Noviander Honigberg Riesling Auslese (Mosel-Saar-Ruwer): Lovely sherried nose – nutty, caramel, with floral elements. On the palate, fascinating textures, layered – viscous and oily, yet spring-water like at the same time. Hard to describe, but thoroughly delicious.

2004 Joh. Jos. Prüm Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Auslese (Mosel-Saar-Ruwer): Corked.

2002 Alois Kracher TBA #6 Scheurebe Zwischen den Seen (Burgenland, Austria): Kracher doesn’t make a riesling as far as I know. Bright, intense nose of apricots, honey, and butter. Exotic on the palate, apricots, rose, cloves and orange peel. Viscous and sweet of course, with good, but not great acidity.


The restaurant was Portuguese, I had my favorite Bife à Portuguesa - tenderloin served in a bath of melted butter comingled with wine, vinegar, and beef juices, and topped with presunto (like prosciutto) and a fried egg. Served with chips and pickled vegetables. Tremendous.