Sunday, March 22, 2009

Kurosawa Kimoto Junmai [1 Koku - 91]

From the Kurosawa Shuzo (no relation to Akira) in Nagano Prefecture. SMV +2, acidity 1.5, 15.5% abv. Well, this is an enigma wrapped inside a mystery wrapped inside some nori. The back label, entirely in Japanese, says this is "kimoto (yamahai) tsukuri" - made by kimoto (yamahai) method. The problem is that kimoto and yamahai are actually DIFFERENT methods, both involving natural yeast, as in, from the air, but opposite in treatment. So I'm a bit confused. Fortunately, for all the wonderful differences, the results of these two methods are somewhat similar.

So, after all the Daishichi kimoto experience, one might take kimoto/yamahai for granted - the Daishichi I've tried so far (n=1) is clean and light, relatively little of the funk that the kimoto/yamahai method normally brings. The Kurosawa certainly isn't a complete tilt to the other extreme, but it is more familiar - unctuous, rich and full, yet remaining dry, with great earthiness and good acidity. I think of a certain preparation of the Korean dol sot bibim bap, the rice dish in the oven baked stone pot, where the rice forms a crust at the bottom of the bowl, and then you pour water into it to prepare a very light rice "soup" - the nutty, roasted rice notes are what this is all about, as well as a soy milk element on the finish. Very easy drinking, but also good interest and a rather lingering finish. Half an hour later, I can still taste some of the roasted rice notes, which is impressive. My only issue tonight is that this followed the second half of the isshobin of the Rikyubai Kasumi Usu-Nigori, which is much more assertive. I think this will shine more brightly tomorrow, and I think I will give it a go atsukan - warm.

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